A raglan sweater grows from the neckline outward in four symmetrical directions.
Increases at four corner points—the raglan lines—add stitches simultaneously for the front, back, and both sleeves. The yoke expands as a square with clipped corners until it reaches the underarms, where the sleeve stitches split off and the body continues downward.
This two-tone version uses a contrasting color for the yoke and a main color for the body. The color change naturally highlights the raglan construction, making the diagonal increase lines visible as a design feature rather than hidden structure.
The entire sweater uses only double crochet and basic post stitches for the ribbing. If you can double crochet and work a front-post/back-post stitch, you can make this sweater.
Why You'll Love This Crochet Sweater
The top-down construction means you can try it on as you go.
After the yoke reaches your underarms, slip it over your head. If it's too tight, add more increase rounds. If it's too loose, frog back a few rounds. No guessing. No measuring against a schematic and hoping for the best.
The raglan increase pattern is simple to memorize.
Each corner gets (dc, ch 1, dc) in the chain-1 space from the previous round. Everything between corners is plain double crochet. The pattern repeats until the yoke is large enough to split.
The two-color design adds visual interest without requiring color work skills.
You work the yoke entirely in Color A (forest green), then switch to Color B (natural cream) for the body. The sleeves continue in Color A. No carrying yarn. No changing colors mid-round. Just one clean transition.
Sizing is genuinely flexible. The foundation chain determines the neck hole. The number of yoke rounds determines the body and sleeve circumference. You can adjust both independently.
Materials Needed
- 280 grams of worsted weight (#4) yarn in Color A (yoke and cuffs)
- 110 grams of worsted weight (#4) yarn in Color B (body)
- 6.0 mm (J-10) crochet hook
- Scissors
- Tapestry needle
- Stitch markers
Lion Brand Wool-Ease in Forest Heather and Natural Heather are the colors shown. Each skein is $5.99 for 197 yards. You'll need 2 skeins of green and 1 skein of cream for a size small.
The 6.0 mm hook is larger than standard worsted weight recommendations, which creates a drapier fabric with better movement. For a denser, warmer sweater, drop to 5.5 mm.
For a completely different look, reverse the colors—cream yoke with a colored body. Or use a variegated yarn for the yoke and a solid for the body.
Best Yarn Choices for a Raglan Sweater
Wool blends give you warmth plus stitch definition.
The raglan increase lines are a design feature, and they read best in a yarn with clear stitch definition. Wool-Ease is the standard recommendation: affordable, widely available, and machine washable.
Acrylic is the budget, vegan choice. Red Heart Super Saver held single with a 6.0 mm hook creates a slightly drapier, less structured sweater. It's softer after washing.
Cotton at this gauge would be heavy and would stretch significantly. Not recommended for a raglan sweater that needs to hold its shape.
For help calculating yardage for a larger size, my yarn weights guide includes substitution formulas and size adjustments.
Gauge, Size Guide & Must-Have Tools
Gauge: 9 rows of 15 double crochets = 4 inches square.
Gauge matters for fit. A sweater that's one stitch per inch too loose can end up several inches too wide around the body. Measure your swatch after blocking.
Finished dimensions (size small, adjustable):
- Neck hole: about 22 inches circumference
- Yoke depth: about 14.5 inches diagonal at 15 rounds
- Body circumference: depends on extra chains at split
The foundation chain must be a multiple of 4 to divide evenly across the four yoke sections.
Must-have tools:
- 6.0 mm hook: Comfortable grip for extended crocheting.
- Stitch markers: Mark the four corner chain-1 spaces. Essential for tracking increase points.
- Flexible tape measure: For measuring yoke depth against your body.
Pattern Notes & Tips Before You Start
Mark the four corner chain-1 spaces with stitch markers. These are your increase points. Every round, you'll work (dc, ch 1, dc) into each of these four spaces. The markers help you find them instantly.
Turn at the end of each round. Turning prevents the diagonal seam drift common in continuous rounds and keeps the raglan lines straight.
The yoke should extend at least a couple of inches past your underarm before you split. Hold the yoke up to your body at the underarm. If the corners don't reach, add more increase rounds.
The chain added when splitting the yoke adds width to both the body and sleeves. More chains mean a wider body and looser sleeves. The chains on opposite sides should be equal.
Abbreviations Explained
- ch – chain: Yarn over, pull through loop.
- dc – double crochet: Yarn over, insert hook, pull up loop, (yarn over, pull through two loops) twice.
- dec – decrease: Dc2tog over two stitches.
- fpdc – front post double crochet: Yarn over, insert hook from front to back around the post, complete as dc.
- bpdc – back post double crochet: Yarn over, insert hook from back to front around the post, complete as dc.
- rep – repeat: Work the instruction set again.
- sl st – slip stitch: Insert hook, yarn over, pull through stitch and loop.
Step-by-Step Two-Tone Raglan Pullover
Yoke
Foundation: With Color A, chain 100 (or any multiple of 4). Untwist and slip stitch to the first chain to form a circle.
Round 1: Chain 2. (Dc 25, ch 1) 4 times around. Slip stitch to first dc. (100 dc, 4 ch-1 spaces)
Place stitch markers in each of the 4 chain-1 spaces. These are your raglan corners.
Rounds 2–15: Chain 2, turn. Dc in the chain-1 space below. Dc along the side until the next chain-1 space. (Dc, ch 1, dc) in the chain-1 space. Repeat around, skipping the last dc of the final side. Slip stitch. (Increases by 8 stitches per round)
Try the yoke on at round 12. The corners should reach at least 2 inches past your underarm. If not, add rounds.
Splitting the Yoke
Fold the yoke flat. Pinch the fabric so the two corners on each side line up. These become the underarm points.
Round 16: Chain 2, turn. Dc in chain-1 space and along the side until the next chain-1 space. Dc in the chain-1 space. Chain 4 (or desired extra width). Skip the next entire side of the square until the next chain-1 space. Repeat from *. Slip stitch.
The chain-4 on each side adds width to both the sleeve and body. For a looser fit, chain more. For a tighter fit, chain fewer.
Sleeves
Round 1: Turn. Slip stitch across half the underarm chain. Chain 2. Dc in the remaining chain, across the sleeve stitches, into the chain-1 space, around the sleeve, and into the first half of the chain. Slip stitch.
Rounds 2–38: Chain 2, turn. Dc around, placing one decrease at the top of the sleeve every other round. Slip stitch. (Decrease by 1 stitch per decrease round)
The decreases taper the sleeve toward the wrist. Place decreases at the top of the sleeve, not at the underarm seam.
Rounds 39–41 (Cuff): (Fpdc, bpdc) around. Slip stitch. Fasten off.
Repeat for the second sleeve.
Collar Ribbing
Attach Color A at the back neck seam. Work (fpdc, bpdc) around, decreasing at the four corner points to pull the collar inward. Work 3 rounds total. Fasten off.
Body
Attach Color B at the center of an underarm chain, on the underside.
Rounds 1–20: Chain 2, turn. Dc around. Slip stitch.
Rounds 21–23 (Hem Ribbing): (Fpdc, bpdc) around. Slip stitch. Fasten off.
Finishing
Weave all ends to the inside. Block the sweater flat, shaping the collar, cuffs, and hem.
Easy Variations & Custom Ideas
Striped body: Change colors every 4 rounds on the body for horizontal stripes. The round seam hides color changes.
Cropped version: Stop the body after 10 rounds for a cropped silhouette.
Turtleneck: Extend the collar ribbing upward for 15–20 rounds. Fold down for a doubled turtleneck.
Solid color: Skip the two-tone and use one color throughout. The raglan lines still read because of the increase pattern.
Common Troubleshooting and Fixes
Raglan lines are twisting: Make sure you're turning at the end of each round. Continuous rounds without turning cause diagonal drift.
Neck hole is too tight: The foundation chain determines the neck circumference. For a wider neck, chain more (in multiples of 4).
Sleeves are too baggy: Decrease more aggressively on the sleeve rounds. Place decreases every round instead of every other round.
Body is too wide: Add fewer chains at the underarm split, or work decrease rounds on the body before continuing straight.
Final Thoughts
A first sweater is a milestone, and a raglan is the most forgiving construction for that milestone.
You can try it on constantly. You can adjust as you go. There's no seaming at the end—the sleeves are already attached. It's the construction I recommend to anyone who's nervous about garment making.
Make this in colors you love and wear it proudly. You made a sweater.
Tag me when you finish. First sweaters are always worth celebrating.
