Most crochet garments are worked bottom-up or top-down. This vest goes sideways.
The rows run from armhole to armhole rather than hem to shoulder. This orientation means the ribbing flows horizontally around the body, creating a completely different visual effect than vertical ribs. It also makes armhole and neckline shaping more intuitive—you're essentially increasing and decreasing at the ends of rows to carve out the openings.
Double-stranded worsted weight yarn gives the vest substantial body and warmth. Two strands held together create a fabric that's equivalent to a bulky weight but with the stitch definition and drape of worsted. It works up faster than single-stranded projects and produces a vest with genuine heft.
The crew neckline is shaped symmetrically through decreases, and ribbed edging finishes all the openings for a polished, professional look.
Why You'll Love This Crochet Vest
The side-to-side construction teaches a different way of thinking about garment shaping.
Instead of calculating how many stitches to decrease for a neckline in the middle of a row, you simply stop working before the end of the row. The unworked stitches become the neckline opening. It's simpler in execution than traditional shaping, especially for visual learners.
The ribbed texture is dramatic at this yarn weight.
Double-stranded half double crochets through back loops create ridges deep enough to cast visible shadows. The fabric looks like a chunky knit from any distance beyond about a foot.
The pattern includes very detailed sizing notes.
Every section has italicized instructions for adjusting: make the armhole deeper, the neckline lower, the body wider. You can customize the fit without understanding garment math.
The back panel is almost identical to the front, with a slightly shallower neckline. Once you complete the front, the back follows the same logic with one small measurement change.
Materials Needed
- Approximately 240 grams / 440 yards of worsted weight (#4) yarn held double (or bulky weight used single)
- 6.0 mm (J-10) crochet hook
- Scissors
- Tapestry needle
- Stitch markers
Wool of the Andes Worsted from WeCrochet ($3.99 per 110 yards) is the recommended substitute for the discontinued yarn. You'll need about 4 skeins held double, or 2 skeins if using a true bulky weight.
The pattern was designed with two strands of worsted held together. If you prefer a single strand, use a bulky (#5) weight yarn and follow the same instructions. Lion Brand Wool-Ease Chunky ($6.99 per 153 yards) works well.
The 6.0 mm hook accommodates the double-stranded yarn comfortably.
Best Yarn Choices for a Ribbed Vest
Wool and wool blends give you the best stitch definition for ribbing.
The back-loop-only technique relies on visible ridges for its effect. Wool's natural crimp holds those ridges clearly. Wool-Ease or Wool of the Andes are both excellent choices that won't break the budget.
Acrylic is the vegan, budget-friendly alternative. Look for a yarn with some structure rather than something overly soft and drapey. The vest needs body to hold its shape. Red Heart Super Saver held double works, though the fabric will be slightly less crisp than wool.
Cotton at this gauge would be very heavy. Not recommended unless you're intentionally making a weighted garment.
For help calculating yardage for a different size, my yarn weights guide includes substitution formulas.
Gauge, Size Guide & Must-Have Tools
Gauge: 10 rows of 13 half double crochets = 4 inches square with double-stranded yarn.
If using bulky weight single-stranded, your gauge should be similar. Measure a swatch before beginning.
Finished dimensions (size small, adjustable):
- Width: about 15.7 inches across the chest (front panel)
- Length: about 16.5 inches from shoulder to hem
- Armhole depth: about 8.3 inches
- Neckline drop: about 7.1 inches (front), shallower for back
To adjust size, change the foundation chain (length A) and the number of rows in each section. The pattern notes guide every adjustment point.
Must-have tools:
- 6.0 mm hook: Comfortable grip for the dense double-stranded fabric.
- Stitch markers: Mark the transition between hdc and sc sections, and the neckline decrease points.
- Flexible tape measure: For checking fit at every stage.
Pattern Notes & Tips Before You Start
Read through the entire pattern before beginning. The side-to-side construction means you're essentially crocheting a large, shaped rectangle. The shaping happens at both ends of rows simultaneously—armhole on one side, neckline on the other.
The single crochet sections at the ends of rows create the ribbing for the neckline and armholes. These are always worked through back loops only and always stacked on top of each other. Place a stitch marker between the hdc and sc sections to maintain the boundary.
The second half of each panel mirrors the first half. When you finish the first half, fold the panel in half and check that the ends of rows align. If they don't, you need to adjust the number of rows in the second half.
The ribbing edging is worked directly onto the armholes and neckline. If you prefer, you can work it separately and sew it on, which is sometimes easier for beginners. The pattern includes both options.
Abbreviations Explained
- blo – back loop only: Insert hook under only the back loop for ribbing.
- ch – chain: Yarn over, pull through loop.
- hdc – half double crochet: Yarn over, insert hook, pull up loop, yarn over, pull through all three.
- rep – repeat: Work the instruction set again.
- sc – single crochet: Insert hook, yarn over, pull up loop, yarn over, pull through both.
- sk – skip: Move past without working.
- sl st – slip stitch: Insert hook, yarn over, pull through stitch and loop.
Step-by-Step Side-to-Side Ribbed Vest
Front Panel – First Half
Foundation: Chain 29. This is length A (the armhole depth plus shoulder). Adjust chains for larger or smaller armholes.
Row 1: Hdc in the 2nd chain from hook and across until 6 chains remain. Sc in the last 6 chains. (28 stitches)
The 6 single crochets form the ribbing edge. Adjust this number for wider or narrower ribbing.
Row 2: Chain 1, turn. Sc blo in next 6 stitches. Hdc blo across. (28 stitches)
Row 3: Chain 3, turn. Hdc in 2nd chain from hook, hdc in next chain, hdc blo across until 6 stitches remain. Sc blo in last 6 stitches. (30 stitches)
Rows 4–6: Alternate Row 2 and Row 3. (30, 32, 32 stitches)
These rows shape the armhole by gradually increasing. For a deeper armhole, continue alternating Row 2 and Row 3. Stop after an even-numbered row.
Row 7: Chain 25. Turn. Hdc in 2nd chain from hook, hdc across chains, hdc blo across until 6 stitches remain. Sc blo in last 6 stitches. (56 stitches)
The chain length is the shoulder width (length B). More chains for broader shoulders, fewer for narrower.
Rows 8–11: Alternate Row 2 and Row 9 (Row 9 is hdc blo across until 6 sc remain, sc blo across). Continue until the space between armhole and neckline is correct. Stop after an odd row.
Row 12: Chain 1, turn. Sc blo in next 6 stitches. Hdc blo across until 8 stitches remain. Do not work into those 8 stitches. (48 stitches)
The 8 unworked stitches create the neckline drop (length C). Leave more unworked for a deeper neckline, fewer for a shallower.
Rows 13–19: Alternate decreases at the neckline edge. (48, 46, 44, 44, 42, 42)
Rows 20–24: Work even. (42 stitches per row)
Front Panel – Second Half (Mirror)
Rows 25–41 mirror Rows 19–3 in reverse. The neckline increases to match the decreases, and the armhole decreases to match the increases.
Chain at the neckline edge (Row 31) to match the stitches left unworked in Row 12.
Fasten off with a long tail for side seaming.
Back Panel
Work identically to the front panel, but the neckline row (Row 12) leaves only 4 stitches unworked instead of 8, creating a shallower back neckline. The corresponding chain row mirrors accordingly.
Assembly and Ribbing
Lay the front panel on top of the back panel. Sew the shoulder seams and side seams using the long tails.
For each armhole and the neckline, work ribbing: chain 7, sc in 2nd chain from hook and across, then slip stitch to the opening edge. Work back-loop-only sc rows, joining to the opening edge with sl st 2 together or sl st 3 together as needed to navigate curves.
Weave in all ends.
Easy Variations & Custom Ideas
V-neck version: Adjust the neckline shaping to create a V rather than a crew. Work decreases every row instead of every other row at the neckline edge.
Longer length: Add chains in the foundation and in Row 7. The body width will increase proportionally.
Contrast ribbing: Work the edging ribbing in a contrasting color for a sporty, color-blocked look.
Turtleneck: Extend the neckline ribbing upward for 15–20 rows to create a folded turtleneck.
Common Troubleshooting and Fixes
Stitch counts don't match between halves: Count rows carefully. The first and second halves must have identical row counts for symmetry. Use a row counter.
Ribbing is too tight: The sl st joins may be pulling. Work the slip stitches loosely, or substitute single crochet joins for more give.
Armhole depth is uncomfortable: Adjust the foundation chain (length A) and the corresponding second-half rows. Try the vest on before adding the armhole ribbing.
Neckline looks asymmetrical: Mark the center point before beginning the second half. The mirroring must be precise.
Final Thoughts
A side-to-side vest is a different way of thinking, and that's what makes it valuable.
Once you understand that garments can be constructed in orientations other than bottom-up, a whole category of patterns opens up. This vest is a gateway to understanding shaping in its most intuitive form.
Wear it over a long-sleeve shirt in fall or a turtleneck in winter. The double-stranded fabric traps warmth without being bulky.
Tag me if you make one. First side-to-side garments always deserve celebration.
