Wilder Crochet Vest

Joanna Grey

Aug 11, 2026

Create a stunning, lightweight layer with this gorgeous lacy vest pattern, designed to fit sizes Small to 5XL.

Easy Crochet Vest Free Pattern, Wilder Vest

Have you ever looked at a gorgeous, breezy crochet garment and thought, "There is no way my hands can make that"? I used to feel the exact same way, staring at intricate lace designs while clutching my basic granny squares. It is easy to feel intimidated by garments.

Many garment patterns look beautiful but turn out to be a total nightmare of complex shaping, endless counting, and confusing schematics. You end up frogging your work five times, losing your stitch markers, and hiding the half-finished piece in your closet. We have all been there.

That is why I designed this project to be completely stress-free. It uses simple geometric panels and basic stitches to create a high-end, boutique look without the headache.

Today, we are making the Wilder Vest. It is a lovely, lightweight layer that looks incredibly chic over a simple summer dress or a basic tee and jeans. If you loved making my lacy crochet cardigan pattern, you will absolutely adore this breezy vest.

Why You'll Love This Pattern

Incredibly Easy Construction: Built from simple flat panels, making it perfect for beginners dipping their toes into garments.
Size Inclusive: The pattern includes instructions for sizes S/M all the way up to 4XL/5XL.
Perfect Summer Layering: The open, lacy stitch pattern keeps it light, airy, and comfortable even in warm weather.

Materials You'll Need

Yarn: DK weight yarn (Size 3). The samples were made using Bernat Baby Sport (Baby Ecru) and Ice Yarns Cake Baby Fine. (Note: Ice Yarns Cake is labeled as size 2 but works up like a DK). Lion Brand Mandala is a fantastic alternative.
Hook: G (4.5 mm) crochet hook.
Notions: Tapestry needle, scissors, stitch markers, and a 5-inch piece of cardboard for making tassels.
Yardage: Approximately 700 to 1200 yards depending on the size you choose to make.

Gauge & Sizing

Gauge: 4 pattern repeats = 4 inches (measured across the lacy section of rows 1 to 9).
Sizes included: S/M, L/XL, 2XL/3XL, 4XL/5XL.
Finished measurements: Length includes the decorative tassels. S/M has a looser fit on a Small and a tailored fit on a Medium.

Abbreviations & Stitch Instructions

sc (single crochet): Insert hook, yarn over, pull up a loop, yarn over, pull through both loops.
dc (double crochet): Yarn over, insert hook, pull up a loop, yarn over, pull through two loops, yarn over, pull through remaining two loops.
dc2tog (double crochet two together): *(Yarn over, insert hook into next stitch, pull up a loop, yarn over, pull through 2 loops), repeat from * once more, yarn over and pull through all 3 loops on hook.
dc3tog (double crochet three together): *(Yarn over, insert hook into next stitch, pull up a loop, yarn over, pull through 2 loops), repeat from * 2 more times, yarn over and pull through all 4 loops on hook.
sc3tog / s3tog (single crochet three together): *(Insert hook into next stitch or point, pull up a loop), repeat from * 2 more times, yarn over and pull through all 4 loops on hook.
sc5tog (single crochet five together): *(Insert hook into next stitch or point, pull up a loop), repeat from * 4 more times, yarn over and pull through all 6 loops on hook.

Pattern Notes

Skill Level: Easy / Advanced Beginner.
This pattern is written in US crochet terms.
The item is worked flat in separate panels and then seamed together.
Tension Tip: Keep your chain stitches loose in the lacy sections so the fabric drapes beautifully without puckering.
Customization Tip: You can easily adjust the length of the vest by adding or subtracting pattern repeats before starting the armhole shaping.

Step-by-Step Instructions

Front Panels (Make 2 - Left and Right)

To begin, chain 37.

Row 1: Work 1 dc into the 4th chain from your hook (the 3 skipped chains count as your first dc). Work 1 dc in every chain across to the end, then turn your work. — 35 (41, 49, 57) dc.

Row 2: Chain 3 (counts as a dc here and throughout), work 1 dc in the next stitch. *Chain 1, skip the next stitch, work 1 dc in the next stitch. Repeat from * until you reach the beginning chain, work 1 dc on top of the beginning chain, then turn. — 19 (22, 26, 30) dc.

Row 3: Chain 3, *work 1 dc in the next stitch, work 1 dc in the next chain space. Repeat from * until 2 stitches remain, work 1 dc in the next stitch, work 1 dc on top of the beginning chain, then turn. — 35 (41, 49, 57) dc.

Row 4: Chain 1, work 1 sc in the first stitch and in each stitch across to the end. Your final sc will be worked on top of the beginning chain. Turn. — 35 (41, 49, 57) sc.

Row 5: Chain 3, dc2tog across the next 2 stitches. *Chain 5, skip the next sc, dc3tog across the next 3 stitches. Repeat from * until 4 stitches remain. Chain 5, skip the next sc, dc2tog across the next 2 stitches, work 1 dc in the last sc, then turn. — 9 (10, 12, 14) dc clusters.

Row 6: Chain 3, work 1 dc on top of the adjacent dc2tog, chain 2, work 1 sc in the next chain-5 space. *Chain 5, work 1 sc in the next chain-5 space. Repeat from * and after working sc in the last chain-5 space, chain 2, work 1 dc in the next dc2tog, work 1 dc on top of the beginning chain, then turn. — 7 (8, 10, 12) chain-5 loops + 2 chain-2 loops.

Row 7: Chain 3, work 2 dc in the next dc. *Chain 1, work 3 dc in the third chain of the next chain-5 loop. Repeat from * and after working 3 dc in the last chain-5 loop, chain 1, work 2 dc in the next dc, work 1 dc on top of the beginning chain, then turn. — 9 (10, 12, 14) 3-dc groups.

Row 8: Chain 1, work 1 sc in the first stitch, work 1 sc in each of the next 2 dc stitches. *Work 1 sc in the next chain space, work 1 sc in each of the next 3 dc stitches. Repeat from * to the end of the row. Your last sc will be on top of the beginning chain. Turn. — 35 (41, 49, 57) sc.

Row 9: Chain 3, work 1 dc in the next stitch and in each stitch across to the end, then turn. — 35 (41, 49, 57) dc.

Row Repeats: Repeat Rows 2 to 9 until your piece measures approximately 21 inches and you have completed 12 solid dc rows. Your last row must be a repeat of Row 3.

Shaping the Left Front Panel

In the next row, you will skip stitches to form the armhole.

Row 1: Chain 1, work 1 sc in the first stitch and in each of the next 18 (22, 26, 30) stitches. Leave the remaining 16 (16, 20, 24) stitches unworked, then turn. — 19 (23, 27, 31) sc.

Next Rows: Repeat Rows 5 to 9, then follow with Rows 2 to 9. You will have 5 (6, 7, 8) dc clusters at the end of Row 5.

For Size S/M Only: Repeat Rows 2, 3, and 4. Next row: Chain 3, work 1 dc in the next stitch and in each stitch across, turn (19 dc). Next row: Chain 1, work 1 sc in the first stitch and in each stitch across to the end (working the last sc on top of the beginning chain). Fasten off. — 19 dc.

For Size L/XL Only: Repeat Rows 2, 3, and 4. Repeat Row 2 (working your last stitch into your last sc). Repeat Row 3. Fasten off.

For Size 2XL/3XL Only: Repeat Rows 2 to 8. Fasten off.

For Size 4XL/5XL Only: Repeat Rows 2 to 9. Next row: Chain 1, work 1 sc in the first stitch and in each stitch across to the end. Fasten off.

Shaping the Right Front Panel

Row 1: Chain 1 (counts as the first slip stitch), slip stitch in each of the next 15 (15, 19, 23) stitches. Work 1 sc in the next stitch and place a stitch marker in this sc. Work 1 sc in each of the remaining stitches to the end of the row, then turn. — 19 (23, 27, 31) sc.

Row 2: Chain 3, dc2tog across the next 2 stitches. *Chain 5, skip the next sc, dc3tog across the next 3 stitches. Repeat from * until 4 stitches remain. Chain 5, skip the next sc, dc2tog across the next 2 stitches, work 1 dc in the last marked sc, then turn.

Next Rows: Repeat Rows 6 to 9, then follow with Rows 2 to 9.

For Size L/XL Only: Repeat Rows 2, 3, and 4. Repeat Row 2 (working your last stitch into your last sc). Repeat Row 3. Fasten off.

For Size 2XL/3XL Only: Repeat Rows 2 to 8. Fasten off.

For Size 4XL/5XL Only: Repeat Rows 2 to 9. Last Row: Chain 1, work 1 sc in the first stitch and in each stitch across to the end. Fasten off.

Back Panel

The back panel features a lacier design than the front.

To begin, chain 73 (85, 101, 117).

Row 1: Work 1 dc into the 4th chain from your hook (the 3 skipped chains count as your first dc). Work 1 dc in each chain across to the end, then turn. — 71 (83, 99, 115) dc.

Row 2: Chain 3, work 1 dc in the next stitch. *Chain 1, skip the next stitch, work 1 dc in the next stitch. Repeat from * to the beginning chain, work 1 dc on top of the beginning chain, then turn. — 37 (43, 51, 59) dc.

Row 4: Chain 1, work 1 sc in the first stitch and in each stitch across to the end. Your last sc will be on top of the beginning chain. Turn. — 71 (83, 99, 115) sc.

Row Repeats: Repeat Rows 5 to 8 four more times.

Next Row: Chain 3, work 1 dc in the next stitch and in each stitch across to the end, then turn. — 71 (83, 99, 115) dc.

Next Rows: Repeat Rows 2 to 9 a total of 2 times.

Next Rows: Repeat Rows 2 and 3.

Armhole Shaping Row: Chain 1 (counts as the first slip stitch), slip stitch in each of the next 15 (15, 19, 23) stitches. Work 1 sc in the next stitch and place a stitch marker in this sc. Work 1 sc in each of the next 38 (46, 54, 62) stitches. Leave the remaining 16 (16, 20, 24) stitches unworked, then turn. — 39 (47, 55, 63) sc.

Next Rows: Repeat Rows 5 to 9, then follow with Rows 2 to 9. You will have 10 (12, 14, 16) dc clusters at the end of Row 5.

For Size S/M Only: Repeat Rows 2, 3, and 4. Next row: Chain 3, work 1 dc in the next stitch and in each stitch across, turn. Next row: Chain 1, work 1 sc in the first stitch and in each stitch across to the end (working the last sc on top of the beginning chain). Fasten off.

For Size L/XL Only: Repeat Rows 2, 3, and 4. Repeat Row 2 (working your last stitch into your last sc). Repeat Row 3. Fasten off.

For Size 2XL/3XL Only: Repeat Rows 2 to 8. Fasten off.

For Size 4XL/5XL Only: Repeat Rows 2 to 9. Next row: Chain 1, work 1 sc in the first stitch and in each stitch across to the end. Fasten off.

Seaming and Assembly

Lay your front panels flat on top of the back panel, ensuring the right sides of the fabric are facing each other. Using loose slip stitches, seam the shoulder seams together. To seam the sides, leave a 12-inch opening at the bottom of each side to create a stylish side slit, then seam the remaining side edges together.

Armhole Edging

Flip your vest right-side out. Attach your yarn with a slip stitch at the base of the armhole where the side seam meets. Work a round of single crochet evenly around the armhole opening, then slip stitch to the first single crochet. Do not turn. Chain 1, work 1 sc in each stitch around, then fasten off. Repeat on the other armhole.

Finishing the Side Slits

Turn the vest inside out. Attach your yarn with a slip stitch at the bottom base of one side slit. Work single crochet stitches up the side of the slit until you are close to the top. Work a sc5tog right at the top of the slit to reinforce it. Continue working single crochet stitches down the opposite side of the slit to the bottom edge, then turn.

Chain 1, work 1 sc in each stitch until you reach the top of the slit, work a sc3tog (s3tog) at the top, then work 1 sc in each remaining stitch to the bottom. Fasten off and repeat on the other side slit.

Finishing the Front Opening

With the vest inside out, attach your yarn with a slip stitch at the bottom corner of the front opening. Work single crochet stitches up the front edge until you reach the shoulder seam. Work 3 sc directly into the shoulder seam. *Work 1 sc in the next stitch, work 2 sc in the next stitch. Repeat from * across the back neck until you reach the second shoulder seam. Work 3 sc in the second shoulder seam. Continue working single crochet stitches down the remaining front edge to the bottom corner, then turn. Chain 1, work 1 sc in each stitch across to the end, then fasten off.

Creating and Adding Tassels

Cut a piece of sturdy cardboard to 5 inches in length. Wrap your yarn around the cardboard multiple times, then cut across one end to create equal-length strands. Take 2 strands of yarn and fold them in half to form a loop. Pull this loop through the bottom edge of your vest. Pull all 4 yarn tails through the loop and pull tight to secure the tassel. Space your tassels evenly along the bottom edge, taking care not to place them too close together so the bottom edge doesn't flare out.

Easy Variations & Custom Ideas

Fringe instead of Tassels: If you prefer a continuous boho look, swap the individual tassels for a long, flowing fringe along the bottom hem.
Adjust the Length: Turn this into a cropped summer top or a dramatic duster vest by simply adjusting the number of row repeats before starting the armholes. This works beautifully if you want to pair it with a cozy rectangle blanket cardigan style.
Add a Button Closure: Sew a large wooden button near the top of the front opening and use the natural spaces in the lacy stitch pattern as a buttonhole.
Play with Color: Use self-striping cake yarn to create effortless color transitions without having to weave in dozens of ends. If you do need to join new colors, check out my guide on seamless crochet color changes.
Solid Back Option: If you prefer more coverage, you can make the back panel using the solid double crochet rows from the front panel instead of the lacy stitch pattern.
Colour ideas: Soft neutrals like cream, ecru, and taupe give a classic bohemian vibe. Vibrant jewel tones like teal, mustard, or terracotta make a stunning summer statement.
Yarn substitutions: Lion Brand Mandala, Caron Skinny Cakes, or any standard sport/DK weight cotton blend yarn for a cooler summer drape.

Common Troubleshooting & Fixes

Problem: The bottom hem of my vest is flaring out or waving.
Fix: This usually happens if you crowd your tassels. Space them further apart, or ensure your initial foundation chain wasn't worked too loosely.
Problem: My lacy sections look puckered and don't drape nicely.
Fix: Your chain stitches in the lacy rows might be too tight. Try using a hook one size larger specifically for the lacy rows, or consciously relax your tension when making chain spaces.
Problem: My side slits are pulling or tearing at the top seam.
Fix: Make sure you work the sc5tog and sc3tog decreases tightly at the top of the slits. This reinforces the stress point where the seam meets the open slit.
Problem: The armholes feel too tight or too loose.
Fix: You can customize the armhole size by adjusting where you place your stitch markers during the armhole shaping row. Just ensure both sides remain symmetrical!

Care Instructions

To keep your lacy vest looking its absolute best, I highly recommend hand washing it in cool water with a gentle wool wash. Lay it flat on a clean towel to dry. Avoid hanging it while wet, as the weight of the water can stretch out the delicate lace stitches. Once dry, store it folded rather than on a hanger to prevent the shoulders from stretching.

Final Thoughts

There is nothing quite like the feeling of wearing a garment you made with your own two hands. The Wilder Vest is the perfect project to build your confidence in crochet garment making while creating a gorgeous, versatile piece for your wardrobe. Don't forget to take your time, enjoy the rhythm of the stitches, and show off your beautiful work!

The Author

I'm Joanna T. Grey. I've been designing crochet patterns for over a decade, and I focus on modern, wearable pieces with clear, tested instructions. Every pattern here is written so you actually understand the why behind each step—not just what to do. Even if you're new or experienced, you'll find practical guidance and designs that work.

Wilder Crochet Vest

Why You'll Love This Pattern

Materials You'll Need

Gauge & Sizing

Abbreviations & Stitch Instructions

Pattern Notes