Crochet Velvet Hat Pattern

Learn how to create a plush, incredibly soft beanie using a clever stitch technique that makes working with slippery velvet yarn an absolute breeze.

Have you ever touched a skein of velvet yarn at the craft store and immediately fallen in love?

I certainly have. It is almost impossible to resist that cloud-like softness.

But let's be completely honest here. Working with this ultra-plush, slippery fiber can sometimes feel like trying to crochet with wet spaghetti. The stitches seem to disappear into the fuzzy texture, leaving you squinting and guessing where to insert your hook.

That is exactly why I designed this beanie with a clever workaround.

Instead of struggling to find the top loops of your stitches, we will be working into the wide spaces between them. By placing your hook into these easily felt gaps, you can work completely by touch without straining your eyes.

This project is incredibly satisfying and works up in a flash.

If you love the luxurious feel of this yarn, you might also want to pair your new accessory with some cozy velvet crochet slippers for the ultimate handmade lounge set. Let's grab our hooks and dive into the details!

Why You'll Love This Pattern

• Stress-free stitches: Working into the spaces between stitches means no more hunting for hidden loops in fuzzy yarn.
• Luxurious texture: The velvet fiber creates an incredibly soft, squishy fabric that feels like a warm hug.
• Quick construction: Once the crown increases are finished, the body is worked in a seamless spiral that flies off your hook.

Materials You'll Need

• Yarn: Bernat Velvet (Size 5 super bulky yarn) in colors like Shadow Purple, Burgundy Plum, or Vapor Gray.
• Hook: Size J (6 mm) crochet hook.
• Notions: Tapestry needle for weaving in ends, a stitch marker, and an optional faux fur pom-pom.
• Yardage: Approximately 1 skein of Bernat Velvet (plenty of yardage for any of the sizes).

Gauge & Sizing

• Gauge: 5 rounds of the child-size crown = 5 inches in diameter.
• Sizes included: Toddler (1-4 years), Child (4-10 years), Preteen/Woman Small-Medium, and Woman Large.
• Finished measurements:
  • Toddler: 9" tall x 18" circumference
  • Child: 9.5" tall x 19.5" circumference
  • Preteen/Woman Small-Medium: 10" tall x 20.5" circumference
  • Woman Large: 10.5" tall x 21.5" circumference

Abbreviations & Stitch Instructions

• ch: Chain
• sl st: Slip stitch
• hdc: Half double crochet
• hdc2tog (Half double crochet two together): Yarn over, insert hook into the designated space, pull up a loop. Yarn over again, insert hook into the same space, pull up another loop. Yarn over and pull through all 5 loops on your hook.
• fphdc (Front post half double crochet): Work a half double crochet by inserting your hook from front to back to front around the post of the stitch below.
• bphdc (Back post half double crochet): Work a half double crochet by inserting your hook from back to front to back around the post of the stitch below.

Pattern Notes

• Skill Level: Advanced Beginner.
• This pattern is written in US crochet terms.
• The item is worked in the round, starting with joined rounds for the crown and transitioning to a continuous spiral.
• Tension Tip: Velvet yarn is highly prone to "worming" (loops pulling out). To prevent this, I recommend using a hook one size smaller than the yarn label suggests (like the 6 mm hook specified) and keeping your tension firm and even.
• Customization Tip: You can easily adjust the slouchiness of this hat by adding or subtracting rounds before starting the brim ribbing.

Step-by-Step Instructions

Toddler Size Beanie (1 to 4 Years)

Round 1: Start by making a chain of 4, then slip stitch to the first chain to create a ring. Chain 1 (does not count as a stitch here and throughout). Working over your starting yarn tail, make 8 hdc into the center of the ring. Pull the tail to close the center hole, then slip stitch to the first hdc. Do not turn. (8 hdc)

Tip: At the end of each round, it might look like there is an extra space to work into. This is just the gap between the last stitch and the starting chain-1. Do not work into this gap!

Round 2: Ch 1. Work 2 hdc in the space immediately following the ch-1. Work 2 hdc in each of the next 7 spaces between stitches. Slip stitch to the first hdc. Do not turn. (16 hdc)

Round 3: Ch 1. Work 2 hdc in the space immediately following the ch-1, then 1 hdc in the next space. Repeat *(2 hdc in the next space, 1 hdc in the next space)* all the way around, ending with 1 hdc in the final space. Slip stitch to the first hdc. Do not turn. (24 hdc)

Round 4: Ch 1. Work 2 hdc in the space immediately following the ch-1, then 1 hdc in each of the next 2 spaces. Repeat *(2 hdc in the next space, 1 hdc in the next 2 spaces)* all the way around, ending with 1 hdc in the final space. Slip stitch to the first hdc. Do not turn. (32 hdc)

Round 5: Ch 1 (place a stitch marker in this chain). Work 2 hdc in the space immediately following the ch-1, then 1 hdc in each of the next 3 spaces. Repeat *(2 hdc in the next space, 1 hdc in the next 4 spaces, 2 hdc in the next space, 1 hdc in the next 3 spaces)* until only one space remains. Work a hdc2tog in the last space. Do not slip stitch and do not turn. (39 sts)

Round 6: Tighten the loop on your hook. Work 1 hdc directly into the space beneath the marked ch-1. Move your stitch marker up into this new stitch. Work 1 hdc in every space around until you reach the space right before the marked stitch. Do not slip stitch and do not turn. (39 sts)

Round 7: Work 1 hdc into the space under the marked stitch, move the marker up into this stitch, and work 1 hdc in each space around to the marker. Do not slip stitch and do not turn. (39 hdc)

Rounds 8+: Repeat Round 7 continuously until your beanie measures 7.5 inches from the top.

Increase Round: Work 1 hdc into the space under the marked stitch, move your marker into this stitch, and work another hdc in the same space. Work 1 hdc in each of the next 5 spaces. Repeat *(2 hdc in the next space, 1 hdc in the next 6 spaces, 2 hdc in the next space, 1 hdc in the next 5 spaces)* until you reach the final space before the marked stitch. Slip stitch into the marked stitch. (46 sts)

Ribbing Round 1: Ch 2 (this counts as your first bphdc). Place a marker in the second chain of this ch-2. Work 1 fphdc in the first stitch. Repeat *(1 bphdc in the next stitch, 1 fphdc in the next stitch)* all the way to the end. Slip stitch to the marked chain. Do not turn. (46 sts)

Ribbing Round 2: Ch 2 (counts as bphdc, mark the second chain). Work 1 fphdc around the next fphdc post. Repeat *(1 bphdc around the next bphdc post, 1 fphdc around the next fphdc post)* to the end. Slip stitch to the marked chain. Do not turn. (46 sts)

Ribbing Round 3: Repeat Ribbing Round 2 once more. Fasten off.

Finishing: Weave in your yarn tails securely on the inside of the hat. When weaving in the crown tail, pull it tight to close any remaining gap at the top, passing it back and forth at least three times to secure it.

Child Size Beanie (4 to 10 Years)

Rounds 1 to 4: Follow the exact same instructions as Rounds 1 through 4 of the Toddler Size. (32 hdc at the end of Round 4)

Round 5: Ch 1 (place a stitch marker in this chain). Work 2 hdc in the space immediately following the ch-1, then 1 hdc in each of the next 3 spaces. Repeat *(2 hdc in the next space, 1 hdc in the next 3 spaces)* 5 times until 4 spaces remain. Work 2 hdc in the next space, 1 hdc in each of the next 2 spaces, and a hdc2tog in the final space. Do not slip stitch and do not turn. (40 sts)

Round 6: Tighten the loop on your hook. Work 1 hdc in the space under the marked ch-1, moving the marker up into this stitch. Work 2 hdc in the next space, 1 hdc in each of the next 18 spaces, 2 hdc in the next space, and 1 hdc in each of the remaining 19 spaces to the marker. Do not slip stitch and do not turn. (42 sts)

Round 7: Work 1 hdc into the space under the marked stitch, move the marker up, and work 1 hdc in each space around to the marker. Do not slip stitch and do not turn. (42 hdc)

Rounds 8+: Repeat Round 7 continuously until the hat measures 8 inches tall.

Increase Round: Work 1 hdc into the space under the marked stitch, move your marker into this stitch, and work 2 hdc in the next space. Work 1 hdc in each of the next 8 spaces, then 2 hdc in the next space. Repeat *(1 hdc in the next 7 spaces, 2 hdc in the next space)* 3 times total. Work 1 hdc in each of the remaining 7 spaces to the marker. Slip stitch into the marked stitch. (47 sts)

Ribbing Round 1: Ch 2 (counts as bphdc, mark the second chain). Work 1 fphdc in the first stitch. Repeat *(1 bphdc in the next stitch, 1 fphdc in the next stitch)* to the end. Slip stitch to the marked chain. Do not turn. (48 sts)

Ribbing Round 2: Ch 2 (counts as bphdc, mark the second chain). Work 1 fphdc around the next fphdc post. Repeat *(1 bphdc around the next bphdc post, 1 fphdc around the next fphdc post)* to the end. Slip stitch to the marked chain. Do not turn. (48 sts)

Ribbing Round 3: Repeat Ribbing Round 2 once more. Fasten off and weave in all ends securely.

Preteen to Woman Small/Medium Beanie

Rounds 1 to 4: Follow the exact same instructions as Rounds 1 through 4 of the Toddler Size. (32 hdc at the end of Round 4)

Round 5: Ch 1 (place a stitch marker in this chain). Work 2 hdc in the space immediately following the ch-1, then 1 hdc in each of the next 3 spaces. Repeat *(2 hdc in the next space, 1 hdc in the next 3 spaces)* until 4 spaces remain. Work 2 hdc in the next space, 1 hdc in each of the next 2 spaces, and a hdc2tog in the final space. Do not slip stitch and do not turn. (40 sts)

Round 6: Tighten the loop on your hook. Work 1 hdc in the space under the marked ch-1, moving the marker up into this stitch. Work 2 hdc in the next space. Repeat *(1 hdc in the next 9 spaces, 2 hdc in the next space)* 3 times total. Work 1 hdc in each of the remaining 8 spaces to the marker. Do not slip stitch and do not turn. (44 sts)

Round 7: Work 1 hdc into the space under the marked stitch, move the marker up, and work 1 hdc in each space around to the marker. Do not slip stitch and do not turn. (44 hdc)

Rounds 8+: Repeat Round 7 continuously until the hat measures 8 inches tall.

Increase Round: Work 1 hdc into the space under the marked stitch, move your marker into this stitch, and work another hdc in the same space. Work 1 hdc in each of the next 7 spaces. Repeat *(2 hdc in the next space, 1 hdc in the next 8 spaces)* until you reach the final space before the marked stitch. Slip stitch into the marked stitch. (49 sts)

Ribbing Round 1: Ch 2 (counts as bphdc, mark the second chain). Work 1 fphdc in the first stitch. Repeat *(1 bphdc in the next stitch, 1 fphdc in the next stitch)* to the end. Slip stitch to the marked chain. Do not turn. (50 sts)

Ribbing Round 2: Ch 2 (counts as bphdc, mark the second chain). Work 1 fphdc around the next fphdc post. Repeat *(1 bphdc around the next bphdc post, 1 fphdc around the next fphdc post)* to the end. Slip stitch to the marked chain. Do not turn. (50 sts)

Ribbing Rounds 3 & 4: Repeat Ribbing Round 2 two more times. Fasten off and weave in all ends securely.

Woman Large Beanie

Rounds 1 to 5: Follow the exact same instructions as Rounds 1 through 5 of the Preteen to Woman Small/Medium size. (40 sts at the end of Round 5)

Round 6: Tighten the loop on your hook. Work 1 hdc in the space under the marked ch-1, moving the marker up into this stitch. Repeat *(2 hdc in the next space, 1 hdc in the next 6 spaces)* 4 times total. Work 2 hdc in the next space, 1 hdc in each of the next 5 spaces, 2 hdc in the next space, and 1 hdc in each of the remaining 4 spaces to the marker. Do not slip stitch and do not turn. (46 sts)

Round 7: Work 1 hdc into the space under the marked stitch, move the marker up, and work 1 hdc in each space around to the marker. Do not slip stitch and do not turn. (46 hdc)

Rounds 8+: Repeat Round 7 continuously until the hat measures 8.5 inches tall.

Increase Round: Work 1 hdc into the space under the marked stitch, move your marker into this stitch, and work another hdc in the same space. Work 1 hdc in each of the next 9 spaces. Repeat *(2 hdc in the next space, 1 hdc in the next 8 spaces)* until you reach the final space before the marked stitch. Slip stitch into the marked stitch. (51 sts)

Ribbing Round 1: Ch 2 (counts as bphdc, mark the second chain). Work 1 fphdc in the first stitch. Repeat *(1 bphdc in the next stitch, 1 fphdc in the next stitch)* to the end. Slip stitch to the marked chain. Do not turn. (52 sts)

Ribbing Round 2: Ch 2 (counts as bphdc, mark the second chain). Work 1 fphdc around the next fphdc post. Repeat *(1 bphdc around the next bphdc post, 1 fphdc around the next fphdc post)* to the end. Slip stitch to the marked chain. Do not turn. (52 sts)

Ribbing Rounds 3 & 4: Repeat Ribbing Round 2 two more times. Fasten off and weave in all ends securely.

Easy Variations & Custom Ideas

• Add a Faux Fur Pom-Pom: A fluffy pom-pom on top instantly elevates the look of this plush beanie.
• Adjust the Slouch: If you prefer a slouchier fit, simply work more repeat rounds of the body before starting the brim increases. For a classic fitted look, check out my Nia Beanie Pattern.
• Try Color Blocking: Use two contrasting shades of velvet yarn—one for the main body and another for the ribbed brim—to create a modern, sporty look.
• Create a Matching Set: Use your leftover yarn to make a cozy accessory! You can easily pair this hat with a matching Twist Crochet Ear Warmer.
• Go for a Classic Ribbed Look: If you decide velvet isn't your favorite fiber to work with, you can achieve a similar cozy vibe with a traditional worsted weight yarn using my Zoe Beanie Pattern.
• Colour ideas: Rich jewel tones like deep burgundy, emerald green, navy blue, or classic neutrals like charcoal gray and cream work beautifully with the natural sheen of velvet yarn.
• Yarn substitutions: Any bulky weight (Size 5) chenille or velvet yarn, such as Premier Yarns Retro Velvet or Lion Brand Vel-Luxe, will make excellent substitutes.

Common Troubleshooting & Fixes

• Problem: My yarn is "worming" and leaving loose loops sticking out of the fabric.
  Fix: This is very common with slippery velvet yarns. Go down a hook size (try a 5.5 mm or 5 mm hook) and make sure you maintain a firm, consistent tension. Check your work every two rounds to catch any loops early.
• Problem: I am losing track of my rounds in the spiral section.
  Fix: Always use a stitch marker in the first stitch of the round. Move it up immediately as you start each new round so you never lose your place.
• Problem: The brim of my hat feels too tight or too loose.
  Fix: Velvet yarn stretches over time, so a snug brim is ideal. However, if it is too tight, you can add more increases in the preparation round (just make sure you end with an even number of stitches for the ribbing). If it is too loose, work fewer increases.
• Problem: I can't find where to slip stitch at the end of the joined rounds.
  Fix: Count backward from the loop on your hook. For example, at the end of Round 1, count back 8 stitches to find exactly where to insert your hook for the slip stitch.

Care Instructions

To keep your velvet beanie looking plush and beautiful, always hand wash it in cold water with a gentle detergent. Avoid twisting or wringing the fabric. Instead, gently press out the excess water with a clean towel and lay the hat flat to dry. Do not put velvet crochet items in the dryer, as the heat and agitation can ruin the delicate pile of the yarn.

Final Thoughts

There is nothing quite like the cozy luxury of a velvet hat on a chilly day. Once you get the hang of working into the spaces between stitches, you will find this pattern incredibly soothing and fast to complete. It makes a wonderful gift for loved ones of all ages, from toddlers to adults. Happy crocheting, and enjoy your beautiful, velvety creation!