Raglan Lace Shrug with Cuffed Sleeves

A top-down raglan shrug worked in one piece with an airy double V-stitch body, integrated sleeve cuffs, and a ribbed collar band. Uses DK weight yarn on a larger hook for drape. No seaming — sleeves are joined in the round at the underarm and worked down to the cuffs. Sized from XS through 3X with stitch counts for every size.

This shrug solves the sizing guesswork that plagues most one-size shrug patterns. Instead of relying on stretch alone to fit different bodies, the raglan construction creates shaped armholes that follow the shoulder line. The V-stitch mesh provides the airy look of thread-weight lace but works up in DK yarn, so it's substantially faster. Sleeve cuffs and the collar band use a ribbed half-double crochet that matches the body gauge while preventing edge flare.

Side-to-side shrugs are fast, but they force you to estimate sleeve circumference and body width on the fly — and the seam under the arm creates a bulk line. Top-down raglan construction removes the guesswork. You increase at four corner points from the neckline down, try it on as you go, and stop when the armhole depth matches your body. The only sewing is a 2-inch underarm seam, and even that can be slip-stitched closed.

Why You'll Love This Shrug

Raglan construction lets you try on the shrug mid-project. After the yoke is complete, you can slip your arm through the sleeve opening and check whether the armhole depth is right before you commit to the body length. No measuring tape required — your body is the gauge. This alone makes it a better experience than side-to-side patterns where you don't know if the fit works until seaming is done.

The double V-stitch body creates a fabric that's open enough for summer layering but substantial enough to hold its shape. Standard V-stitch patterns (dc, ch 1, dc) produce a narrow column that can twist and gap. By working (dc, ch 2, dc) into each chain space from the row below, the mesh opens up evenly and drapes without snagging on jewelry or bag straps.

Sleeve cuffs and the collar band are structural, not decorative. The collar band prevents the neckline from stretching out over time — a common problem with V-stitch garments where the chain spaces elongate with wear. The sleeve cuffs create a clean finish and allow you to push the sleeves up without them sliding back down. Both bands use a simple BLO ribbing that lays flat against the skin.

Multi-size grading is built in from the first row. The pattern includes five sizes with specific stitch counts for the foundation chain, yoke increases, and body rounds. You're not left multiplying by gauge or guessing at proportions. For more on how to choose the right size for your measurements, the guide to resizing crochet patterns covers the math behind garment grading.

The yarn choice makes this shrug practical for actual wear. The original pattern's size 3 cotton thread produces a beautiful lace but requires patience and a large time commitment for a garment. DK weight on a J hook gives you the same open mesh effect at roughly twice the speed, and the yarn is available in every color imaginable. See the yarn selection guide for fiber recommendations that balance drape with stitch definition.

Materials Needed

• Yarn: DK weight (#3). Approximate yardage: 500–550 (600–650, 700–750, 800–850, 900–950) yards for sizes XS (S/M, L/XL, 2X, 3X). Sample uses Berroco Vintage DK (52% acrylic, 40% wool, 8% nylon; 288 yds/100g) in "Dried Rose."
• Hook: US Size J/10 (6.0 mm) for body. US Size H/8 (5.0 mm) for cuffs and collar band only.
• Notions: 4 locking stitch markers (for raglan corner points), yarn needle, sharp scissors.

Best Yarn Choices for This Shrug

Berroco Vintage DK ($9–11/skein, 288 yds/100g) is the sample yarn. The wool-acrylic-nylon blend offers the best balance of drape, stitch definition, and memory. The wool gives the fabric body without stiffness; the nylon prevents the chain spaces from stretching permanently. Machine washable on gentle. Available in over 45 colors.

Lion Brand Mandala ($6–8/skein, 590 yds/150g, 100% acrylic) gives you a full shrug from one cake with yardage to spare. The long color changes create a gradient effect through the V-stitch mesh that's particularly striking. Softer hand than Berroco but with less recovery — the fabric will relax with wear. Excellent budget choice for a casual shrug.

Paintbox Yarns Simply DK ($4–5/skein, 302 yds/100g, 100% acrylic) is the color-range champion. Over 60 colors, clean stitch definition, and a price point that makes experimenting with bold colors painless. Slightly crisper hand than Mandala, which works in the garment's favor for the cuffs and collar.

Knit Picks CotLin ($5–6/skein, 123 yds/50g, 70% cotton, 30% linen) is the warm-weather upgrade. The cotton-linen blend breathes better than acrylic in humidity, and the slight texture of the linen adds visual interest to the mesh. Drapes beautifully. Hand wash recommended — linen can distort in the machine.

Substitution rule: Any DK weight with good stitch definition and at least some natural fiber content. 100% acrylic DK works but will stretch more over time — if using it, work the collar band one hook size smaller than specified. Avoid fuzzy or haloed yarns (mohair blends, brushed acrylic) — the open mesh loses definition when the yarn blurs. For deeper guidance on fiber and drape, read how yarn type affects fabric behavior and what is drape in crochet.

Gauge, Size Guide & Key Details

Gauge on J/10 (6.0 mm) hook in double V-stitch pattern, unblocked:

• 4 V-stitch repeats (8 dc + 4 ch-2 spaces) = 4 inches (10 cm)
• 5 rows = 4 inches (10 cm)

Finished measurements and size selection:

Size	Bust (garment, relaxed)	Armhole Depth	Sleeve Length (underarm to cuff)	Body Length (underarm to hem)
XS	32–34" (81–86 cm)	7" (18 cm)	6" (15 cm)	10" (25 cm)
S/M	36–38" (91–97 cm)	7.5" (19 cm)	6.5" (16.5 cm)	11" (28 cm)
L/XL	40–44" (102–112 cm)	8" (20 cm)	7" (18 cm)	12" (30.5 cm)
2X	46–50" (117–127 cm)	8.5" (21.5 cm)	7.5" (19 cm)	13" (33 cm)
3X	52–56" (132–142 cm)	9" (23 cm)	8" (20.5 cm)	14" (35.5 cm)

The garment is designed with zero to minimal ease at the bust — the open mesh stretches to accommodate a range within each size band. Measure the fullest part of your bust and choose the size that includes your measurement. If between sizes, size down for a more fitted look or size up for a looser drape. The shrug is open-front, so bust fit is forgiving.

To verify gauge, work a swatch of at least 6 V-stitches wide and 8 rows tall. Measure in multiple places — the mesh can vary depending on tension consistency. If your gauge is off by more than half a stitch per 4 inches, adjust hook size. For detailed swatching technique, see swatching properly.

Pattern Notes & Tips Before You Start

Construction overview: The shrug begins at the neckline with a foundation chain worked into a V-stitch setup row. The yoke is worked flat in rows with increases at four raglan points — at each corner of the rectangle that will become the neckline. When the armhole depth is reached, sleeve stitches are placed on hold, the underarm is bridged with chains, and the body is worked in one flat piece to the hem. Sleeves are then picked up and worked in joined rounds down to the cuffs. Finally, the collar band is worked onto the neckline edge.

Raglan corners and marker placement: After the first row, place stitch markers in the ch-1 space of each of the four corner V-stitches. These markers identify where increases happen on every row. The increase is always (dc, ch 1, dc, ch 1, dc) into the marked chain space — this adds one V-stitch to the left and right of each corner point on every row.

Try it on: After completing the yoke, before bridging the underarm, slip the piece over your head (or the recipient's head). The armhole should reach comfortably around the shoulder joint without pulling. If the armhole feels tight, work 1–2 more increase rows. If it's too deep, you've likely overtaken the bust — this is harder to fix, so err on the side of trying on early.

Row-end dc placement: Every row ends with a dc into the top of the turning chain from the previous row. Count this stitch carefully — missing the final dc is the most common cause of shrinking V-stitch counts. If your stitch count is wrong by exactly one, you probably skipped or doubled the final dc.

For a refresher on reading garment patterns line by line, the guide on how to read pattern instructions line by line walks through the common shorthand used in multi-size instructions.

Abbreviations & Special Stitch Instructions

• ch: chain
• sc: single crochet
• hdc: half double crochet
• dc: double crochet
• sl st: slip stitch
• st(s): stitch(es)
• sp: space
• BLO: back loop only
• V-st: (dc, ch 1, dc) in indicated stitch or space
• Double V-st: (dc, ch 2, dc) in indicated chain space
• RS: right side
• WS: wrong side

Double V-Stitch (the body pattern stitch)

Work (dc, ch 2, dc) into the ch-2 space of the Double V-stitch from the previous row. This creates a wider, more open mesh than standard V-stitch and prevents the columns from twisting. The ch-2 space gives the fabric horizontal stretch while the dc posts create vertical structure.

Step-by-Step Pattern Instructions

Part 1: The Raglan Yoke (All Sizes — Worked Flat)

Sizes: Instructions are written for XS with S/M, L/XL, 2X, and 3X in parentheses. Where only one number appears, it applies to all sizes.

Foundation chain: With J/10 (6.0 mm) hook, ch 61 (65, 69, 73, 77).

Row 1 (RS, Setup): V-st in 5th ch from hook (first 3 skipped chs count as first dc of row), *skip next 2 chs, V-st in next ch; repeat from * across to last 2 chs, skip next ch, dc in last ch. Turn.

Stitch count: 19 (20, 21, 22, 23) V-sts with a dc at each end.

The V-sts divide as follows across the yoke: right front, right sleeve, back, left sleeve, left front. Place markers in the ch-1 space of the V-sts that fall at each division point. For XS: markers go in V-sts #4, #7, #13, and #16. For S/M: #4, #7, #14, #17. For L/XL: #5, #8, #14, #17. For 2X: #5, #9, #14, #18. For 3X: #6, #9, #15, #18.

These four marked V-sts are your raglan increase points. Every increase row will work a corner increase into these marked spaces.

Row 2 (WS, Increase): Ch 3 (counts as dc), Double V-st in each ch-1 sp of each V-st across, working a corner increase — (dc, ch 1, dc, ch 1, dc) — into each of the four marked chain spaces. End with dc in top of turning ch. Turn.

Corner increase shorthand: When you reach a marked ch-1 sp, remove the marker, work (dc, ch 1, dc, ch 1, dc) all into that same space, then place the marker into the middle ch-1 sp of the increase just made. This ensures the marker stays centered and the increases stack correctly on subsequent rows.

Row 3 (RS): Ch 3, Double V-st in each ch-2 sp across, working a corner increase into each of the four marked ch-1 sps. End with dc in top of turning ch. Turn.

Rows 4–15 (16, 17, 18, 19): Repeat Row 3 for the number of rows indicated for your size. After the final increase row, the armhole depth should reach approximately 7 (7.5, 8, 8.5, 9) inches when measured along the raglan increase line from the neck edge to the current row. Try the piece on to confirm before proceeding.

Count check after final yoke row: Each raglan line adds one V-stitch per row to the sleeve and body sections. You should have noticeable widening at each corner. The total V-stitch count is not critical — what matters is armhole depth and that the piece lies flat with four distinct corners.

Part 2: Separating Sleeves and Body

Next row (RS, Divide): Ch 3, work Double V-sts across the right front section up to the first marked corner. Skip all stitches across the right sleeve section (from the first corner, across the sleeve, past the second corner). At the underarm, ch 4 (all sizes). Then work Double V-sts across the back section (from the third marked corner to the fourth marked corner). Skip all stitches across the left sleeve section. Ch 4 at the second underarm. Work Double V-sts across the left front section. Dc in top of turning ch. Turn. Remove all markers — only the body stitch count remains relevant.

The ch-4 bridges at the underarms will be treated as the first ch-2 space of the sleeve gap plus one dc on each side. On the following row, you'll work a Double V-st into each ch-4 bridge.

Body Row 1 (WS): Ch 3, work Double V-st in each ch-2 sp across, including working one Double V-st into each ch-4 underarm bridge. Dc in top of turning ch. Turn.

Body Rows 2 through desired length: Repeat Body Row 1 until the body measures 10 (11, 12, 13, 14) inches from the underarm, or to your preferred length. The sample hits at high hip, but you can work the body longer for a waist-length shrug or shorter for a cropped bolero fit.

Final body row (RS): Ch 1, sc in each dc and 2 sc in each ch-2 sp across. This creates a firm lower edge that prevents the V-stitch mesh from flaring. Fasten off. Weave in the end.

Part 3: Sleeves (Worked in Joined Rounds)

With RS facing, attach yarn at the center of the underarm ch-4 bridge using a sl st.

Sleeve Round 1 (Setup): Ch 3 (counts as dc), work Double V-sts evenly around the sleeve opening, placing one Double V-st into the remaining half of the underarm bridge, continuing across the sleeve stitches from the yoke, and joining with a sl st to the top of the beginning ch-3. The exact count of V-sts is not critical — the round should be even and the sleeve should fit comfortably around the upper arm. If the sleeve opening feels loose, skip one V-stitch placement. If tight, add an extra Double V-st into the underarm area.

Sleeve Rounds 2–8 (8, 9, 10, 10): Sl st into the next ch-2 sp, ch 3 (counts as dc), work Double V-sts around, join with sl st to top of ch-3. After the final round, the sleeve measures approximately 6 (6.5, 7, 7.5, 8) inches from underarm. Try on and adjust — sleeves should end 1–1.5 inches above the wrist bone to leave room for the cuff.

Switch to H/8 (5.0 mm) hook for the cuff.

Cuff Round 1: Ch 1, sc in each dc and 2 sc in each ch-2 sp around. Join with sl st to first sc.

Cuff Rounds 2–5: Ch 1, hdc in BLO of each st around. Join with sl st to first hdc. This creates a ribbed cuff that hugs the forearm and can be pushed up or worn down. Fasten off. Repeat all sleeve and cuff instructions for the second sleeve.

Part 4: Collar Band

With RS facing and H/8 (5.0 mm) hook, attach yarn at the back neck corner.

Collar Round 1: Ch 1, work sc evenly around the entire neckline edge. The goal is a flat edge without ruffling or pulling. As a starting guide, place 2 sc in the end of each body row and 1 sc in each foundation chain stitch. Adjust at the corners — add an extra sc if the edge puckers, skip one if it flares. Join with sl st to first sc.

Collar Rounds 2–4: Ch 1, hdc in BLO of each st around. Join with sl st. Fasten off. The ribbed collar band should sit flat against the neck without gaping. If it flares outward, your stitch count is too high — remove the band and reduce scs in Round 1 by approximately 10%. If it pulls inward, your count is too low — add scs evenly around.

Assembly and Finishing

The only assembly is the underarm seams. Using a yarn needle and a length of yarn, sew the small gap at each underarm where the body and sleeve meet, closing any holes left from the ch-4 bridge. A mattress stitch through the corresponding stitches on both sides creates an invisible join. 6–8 stitches per underarm is typical.

Weave all ends. For the open mesh, thread ends vertically through dc posts — not horizontally through chain spaces, where they'll be visible. Split the yarn tail and weave each ply in opposite directions for the most secure finish. For more techniques, see how to weave in ends so they never come loose and the invisible finish techniques guide.

Blocking (recommended): The V-stitch mesh benefits tremendously from blocking. Wet-block or steam-block the finished shrug to even out the stitch pattern and set the raglan lines. Lay flat, pin the corners to square up the yoke, and let dry completely. The crochet blocking tutorial covers wet, steam, and spray methods for different fiber types.

Easy Variations & Custom Ideas

Three-quarter sleeves: Add 3–5 more rounds to the sleeve section before the cuff. The V-stitch rounds are fast — each round adds about 0.75 inches. Measure against your arm as you go and stop where you want the cuff to begin.

Long-sleeve version: For full-length sleeves, continue the V-stitch rounds until the sleeve reaches the wrist bone, then work one round of sc decreases (sc2tog at the underarm center, sc evenly around) to taper the wrist slightly before adding a longer cuff of 8–10 rounds.

Open-front tie closure: Instead of leaving the shrug open, add a chain tie at the front neckline. Work a ch-stitch cord approximately 20 inches long, thread it through the collar band at the front edges, and tie in a bow. This pulls the fronts together slightly and adds a vintage detail.

Color-blocked yoke: Work the yoke in one color through the final increase row. Switch to a second color at the body divide row. The color change falls right at the underarm and creates a defined shoulder line. Choose a lighter color for the body and darker for the yoke to balance proportions.

Cropped bolero: Reduce the body length to 6–7 inches from the underarm. Work the same final sc edging row. The cropped length hits just below the bust and pairs well with high-waisted dresses.

Common Troubleshooting and Fixes

"My raglan corners are curling up and won't lie flat." This usually means the corner increases are creating too much fabric. Verify you're working exactly (dc, ch 1, dc, ch 1, dc) into each marked space — one extra dc creates excess bulk. If the problem persists, try replacing the middle ch-1 in the corner increase with a ch-2 for slightly more space without adding stitches.

"The armhole feels tight when I try it on." Add 1–2 more increase rows to the yoke before dividing. The armhole depth is more important than matching the exact row count. Bodies vary — trust the fit over the numbers.

"The sleeve is too loose around my arm." On the first sleeve round, work fewer Double V-sts around the sleeve opening. Instead of placing V-sts in every available stitch, skip every fourth or fifth placement. The mesh is forgiving — it will stretch to fit but shouldn't have excess fabric bunching.

"My Double V-sts are leaning or twisting." This happens when the two dc of each V-stitch are worked at different tensions. The first dc pulls tighter than the second. Focus on consistent loop height: after pulling through the first dc, keep the loop on your hook the same size before starting the ch-2. The two dc posts should sit symmetrically on either side of the chain space.

"The collar band won't lie flat — it ruffles." You have too many stitches in Round 1. Remove the band, work fewer scs around the neckline edge (skip every 5th or 6th stitch placement), and try again. A flat collar is worth the redo — a ruffled neckline cheapens the entire garment. For more edge-work troubleshooting, see why is my crochet wavy or ruffling.

Next-Level Tips

Once you've made this shrug, the raglan yoke formula transfers to any open-front cardigan or bolero. The division math — right front, sleeve, back, sleeve, left front — stays the same regardless of stitch pattern. Swap the Double V-st body for solid dc, granny clusters, or shell stitches and you can design your own summer cover-ups from this same construction.

For a more fitted garment, add waist shaping to the body. After the underarm divide, work 2–3 decrease rows (skip one V-stitch at each side seam every 4th row) to taper the waist, then work straight to the hem. The decreases pull the mesh in slightly at the natural waist before releasing to the hip.

The Double V-stitch is also excellent for lightweight scarves, beach cover-ups, and window curtains. It creates a fabric that folds flat, drapes softly, and blocks beautifully. For other openwork stitch options that produce similar airy fabrics, explore dense versus airy crochet stitches and the best lightweight stitches for summer wear.

Care Instructions

For Berroco Vintage DK (wool-acrylic-nylon blend):

• Machine wash cold, gentle cycle. Place in a mesh laundry bag to prevent snagging of the open mesh.
• Lay flat to dry. Do not machine dry — heat relaxes the V-stitch structure and can cause the mesh to lose definition.
• Reshape while damp, paying attention to the collar band and cuff ribbing.
• Store folded, not hung. Hanging stretches the V-stitch mesh over time and can pull the collar band out of shape.

For 100% acrylic DK (Lion Brand Mandala, Paintbox Simply DK): Machine wash warm, tumble dry low. Acrylic tolerates more heat but loses recovery over time. If the mesh looks stretched after washing, a quick steam-block restores definition.

For cotton-linen blends (Knit Picks CotLin): Hand wash cold, lay flat to dry. Cotton-linen holds its shape well but can shrink slightly with heat. Do not wring — press water out between towels.

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• Ashford Wrap Cardigan — A wrapped silhouette with similar airy mesh panels.
• Woven Ridge Cardigan — A textured cardigan for when you want more structure.
• Free Crochet Summer Camisole — A warm-weather top using similar lightweight techniques.
• Free Triangle Shawl Crochet Pattern — Another open-stitch layering piece.
• Free Crochet Bolero Pattern — A cropped alternative with similar construction logic.
• Cozy Crochet Cardigan Pattern — A warmer cardigan for cooler-weather layering.