Woven Ridge Cardigan Pattern

This is a top-down, seamless oversized cardigan with integrated side pockets, a textured woven ridge stitch, and raglan shaping. No shoulder seaming. No setting in sleeves. You work the yoke flat from the neck down, split for the body and sleeves at the underarm, and finish with ribbed bands at the hem, cuffs, and front opening.

The construction means you can try it on as you go. If the armhole depth isn't right, you add or remove a few rows before splitting. If the body length feels off, you adjust it while the piece is literally on your shoulders. That kind of real-time fitting takes the guesswork out of garment making.

I designed this after ruining a seamed cardigan. I'd spent three weeks on the panels, blocked them carefully, then stitched one sleeve in backwards and had to spend an evening with a seam ripper. The top-down raglan method eliminates that whole category of mistake. You crochet. You try it on. You keep going or you tweak. By the time you reach the hem, the cardigan fits.

Why This Cardigan Works for Beginners

The stitch pattern uses only single crochet and front post double crochet. If you know those two stitches, you can make every row in this pattern. The texture looks intricate, but the repeat is four rows long and easy to memorize by the time you finish the yoke.

Raglan shaping happens at four marked points. You work an increase into the same stitch on every wrong-side row, always at the marker. There's no counting across a long row trying to remember where the increase goes — you work to the marker, increase, and keep going. The markers do the remembering.

Pockets are built into the side seams, not sewn on as separate pieces. At the designated row, you place six stitches on hold, chain a panel across the gap, and work the pocket lining later by picking up that chain. The pockets sit flat against the body and disappear into the fabric when empty. No alignment issues, no lopsided placement.

The oversized fit is forgiving. Gauge differences of half a stitch per inch won't ruin the silhouette the way they would in a fitted garment. For a first cardigan project, that breathing room matters more than most pattern notes admit.

Materials Needed

• Yarn: Worsted/Aran weight (Category 4), approximately 1000 (1100, 1250, 1400, 1550, 1700, 1900) yards. Sizes XS (S, M, L, XL, 2XL, 3XL).
• Hook: U.S. K/10.5 (6.5mm), or size needed to obtain gauge.
• Stitch markers: 4 locking markers for raglan lines.
• Scrap yarn: 4 short lengths for holding sleeve stitches.
• Tapestry needle: Bent-tip speeds up seaming.
• Tape measure, scissors.

Buy one extra skein beyond the yardage estimate. Dye lots shift between batches, and running out mid-project means either playing yarn detective or accepting a visible color break. If you're building your toolkit from scratch, this beginner starter kit guide covers the absolute minimum you need to start any crochet project without overspending.

Best Yarn Choices for a Drapey Cardigan

Stitch definition matters here. The front post double crochets in the woven ridge pattern need a yarn with a smooth twist — anything too fuzzy or loosely spun buries the texture.

Top picks by budget:

• Under $8/skein: Lion Brand Heartland (100% acrylic, $6.99 at Joann as of early 2026). Smooth finish, heathered color range, machine washable. The acrylic content means it won't block as permanently as wool, but it holds shape well enough for an oversized garment.
• $8–$12/skein: Lion Brand Wool-Ease (wool-acrylic blend, approximately $8.99). Warmer than pure acrylic, better memory for the ribbed bands, still machine washable on gentle.
• $11–$14/skein: Cascade 220 Superwash Merino (100% superwash wool). Crisp stitch definition, blocks beautifully, and the superwash treatment means you won't felt it in the wash. If you want this cardigan to look polished for years, this is my recommendation.

For warm-weather versions, a cotton-acrylic blend like Berroco Modern Cotton ($10–$12) gives drape without the weight of wool. Note that cotton has less elasticity — your ribbed bands will relax more with wear, and the garment may grow slightly in length over the course of a day.

Choosing the right yarn for beginners explains fiber content, ply, and texture in practical terms if you're unsure where to start. For a deep dive into substitution, the yarn substitution guide walks through matching weight, drape, and fiber characteristics so your swap doesn't backfire.

Gauge, Size Guide & Essential Tools

Gauge: 13 stitches and 11 rows = 4 inches (10 cm) in the woven ridge stitch, lightly steam blocked.

Swatch before you start. Work a 6-by-6-inch square in pattern, steam it lightly, and measure the center 4 inches. If your stitch count is too tight, go up a hook size (6.5mm to 7mm or 8mm). Too loose, go down (6.5mm to 6mm). How to fix crochet gauge issues covers troubleshooting swatches without making four of them.

Finished measurements (inches):

• Bust: 39 (43, 47, 51, 55, 59, 63)
• Length from shoulder: 24 (24, 25, 25, 26, 26, 27)
• Sleeve from underarm: 16 (16, 16.5, 16.5, 17, 17, 17.5)
• Armhole depth: 7 (7.5, 8, 8.5, 9, 9.5, 10)

The pattern is designed with 6–8 inches of positive ease. Pick your normal t-shirt size for the intended oversized fit. If your actual bust is 38 inches, size Medium (47-inch finished bust) gives roughly 9 inches of ease — slouchy without swimming. Size down one size for a more fitted cardigan.

Tools that make a difference:

• Locking stitch markers: Split-ring markers can slip out of raglan stitches mid-row. Locking markers stay put. The Clover Locking Ring Markers run about $6 for a pack of 20.
• Bent-tip tapestry needle: The angle makes weaving ends and seaming pocket linings noticeably faster. Standard straight needles work; bent-tip is a $3 quality-of-life upgrade.
• Row counter or tally app: The body section is long. Counting rows by eye gets tedious fast. A clicker counter or a phone app prevents recounting.

Pattern Notes & Tips Before You Start

Read the full pattern once before picking up your hook. The construction has three key moments — raglan increases, sleeve separation, and pocket openings — where knowing what comes next prevents mistakes.

Stitch markers at the four raglan points are non-negotiable. Move them up every few rows. If a marker falls out, count stitches from the neck edge to find the correct column and replace it immediately. The increase always happens in the same stitch column.

The pocket section requires attention. You'll place front-edge stitches on hold, chain across the gap, then work into the back bumps of that chain on the next row. The pocket lining gets crocheted later by picking up those chain stitches. Read the pocket instructions twice before starting that row.

Right side vs. wrong side: Increases happen on wrong-side rows. The textured FPDC rows are also on wrong-side rows. If you lose track, the right side shows smooth SC rows; the wrong side shows the raised post-stitch ridges.

Try the yoke on after every few increase rows. Slip it over your head, let the front edges meet at the center, and check that the armhole hits at the edge of your shoulder. Adjusting raglan depth at this stage is simple — add or remove increase rows. Adjusting it after you've split for sleeves means frogging.

Abbreviations Explained

• Ch — Chain
• SC — Single Crochet
• HDC — Half Double Crochet
• DC — Double Crochet
• FPDC — Front Post Double Crochet: Yarn over, insert hook from front to back around the post of the indicated stitch, yarn over, pull up a loop, complete as a normal DC.
• BPDC — Back Post Double Crochet: Yarn over, insert hook from back to front around the post of the indicated stitch, complete as a normal DC.
• SC2tog — Single Crochet 2 Together (decrease): Insert hook into first stitch, pull up a loop, insert hook into next stitch, pull up a loop, yarn over, pull through all 3 loops on hook.
• St(s) — Stitch(es)
• RS — Right Side (outside of garment)
• WS — Wrong Side (inside of garment)
• PM — Place Marker
• Rep — Repeat

For the full reference list, the crochet abbreviations guide covers every term you'll encounter in modern patterns.

Special Stitch — Woven Ridge Pattern

Worked flat. Multiple of 2 + 1.

Row 1 (RS): SC in 2nd ch from hook and each ch across; turn.

Row 2 (WS): Ch 1, SC in first st, *FPDC around the post of the st 2 rows below the next st, skip the st behind the FPDC, SC in next st; rep from * across; turn.

Row 3: Ch 1, SC in each st across; turn.

Row 4: Ch 1, SC in first 2 sts, *FPDC around the post of the st 2 rows below the next st, skip the st behind the FPDC, SC in next st; rep from * to last st, SC in last st; turn.

Repeat Rows 1–4 for the pattern. When working sleeves in the round, Rounds 1 and 3 are plain SC; Rounds 2 and 4 carry the FPDC texture.

Step-by-Step Woven Ridge Cardigan Pattern

Yoke (Neck-Down Raglan Shaping)

Foundation Chain: Ch 61 (65, 69, 73, 77, 81, 85).

Set-up Row (WS): SC in 2nd ch from hook and next 8 (9, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14) sts (Front Right). Place marker. SC in next 12 sts (Sleeve). Place marker. SC in next 18 (22, 26, 30, 34, 38, 42) sts (Back). Place marker. SC in next 12 sts (Sleeve). Place marker. SC in last 9 (10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15) sts (Front Left). Turn. Total: 60 (64, 68, 72, 76, 80, 84) sts.

Raglan increases happen on WS rows. At each marked stitch, work (SC, ch 1, SC) — this expands the yoke while keeping your stitch count consistent with the pattern repeat.

Row 1 (RS): Ch 1. Work Woven Ridge Row 1 across all stitches, slipping markers as you reach them. Turn.

Row 2 (WS — Increase Row): Ch 1. *Work in pattern to marked st, (SC, ch 1, SC) in marked st; rep from * 3 more times. Work in pattern to end. Turn.

Repeat Rows 1–2 until raglan depth measures 7 (7.5, 8, 8.5, 9, 9.5, 10) inches from the neck edge, ending after a WS row.

Fit check: Try the yoke on before continuing. Front edges should meet at center without gaping or overlapping. Armhole should sit at the edge of your shoulder without digging in. Add or remove increase rows now if the fit isn't right.

Dividing Sleeves and Body

Next RS Row: Work in pattern across Front Right to first marker. Remove marker. Place all sleeve stitches (between first and second markers) onto scrap yarn. Chain 2 (2, 3, 3, 4, 4, 5). Skip sleeve stitches. Work in pattern across Back to next marker. Remove marker. Place second sleeve stitches onto scrap yarn. Chain same number. Work in pattern across Front Left to end. Turn.

The body is now on your hook, connected at the underarms. Both sleeves rest on scrap yarn.

Body with Integrated Pockets

Continue in Woven Ridge pattern until body measures 8 inches from underarm division, ending after a WS row.

Create Pocket Openings (RS Row):

Right Front: Work in pattern to last 6 sts. Place these 6 sts on a stitch holder. Ch 16. Skip held sts.

Back: Work in pattern across all back sts.

Left Front: Work 6 sts. Place these 6 sts on a stitch holder. Ch 16. Skip held sts. Work in pattern to end. Turn.

Next Row: Work in pattern across. At each chain space, work 16 SC into the back bumps of the chain.

Work even until cardigan measures 24 (24, 25, 25, 26, 26, 27) inches from shoulder, ending with a WS row. Do not fasten off.

Bottom Hem Ribbing

Row 1 (RS): Ch 2 (doesn't count as st). HDC in each st across. Turn.

Row 2: Ch 2. *FPDC around next st, BPDC around next st; rep from * to last st. HDC in last st. Turn.

Row 3: Ch 2. *BPDC around next st, FPDC around next st; rep from * to last st. HDC in last st. Fasten off.

Sleeves (Make 2)

Transfer held sleeve stitches to hook. Rejoin yarn at underarm center.

Round 1: Work in pattern across sleeve sts. At underarm chain, work 2 (2, 3, 3, 4, 4, 5) SC evenly. Place marker for start of round. Work 2 rounds even.

Decrease Round: SC2tog at marker, work in pattern to end.

Repeat Decrease Round every 6 (6, 5, 5, 4, 4, 3)rd round — 4 (5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 11) times total. Work even until sleeve measures 16 (16, 16.5, 16.5, 17, 17, 17.5) inches from underarm. End on a plain SC round.

Cuff Ribbing:

Round 1: HDC around. Slip st to join.

Round 2: Ch 2. *FPDC, BPDC; rep around. Slip st to join.

Round 3: Ch 2. *BPDC, FPDC; rep around. Slip st to join. Fasten off.

Repeat for second sleeve.

Finishing — Pocket Linings and Front Bands

Pocket Linings: Turn cardigan inside out. Pick up the 16 chain loops from each pocket opening. Rejoin yarn. Work HDC rows until lining reaches hem ribbing. Whipstitch sides of lining to the inside body fabric. Seam bottom edge to the inside of the hem ribbing. Sewing crochet pieces together shows whipstitch technique with clear photos.

Front Bands and Neckline: With RS facing, join yarn at bottom right hem.

Row 1: Ch 1. SC evenly up right front, around neckline (3 SC in each inner corner), and down left front to hem. Turn.

Rows 2–4: Ch 2. *FPDC, BPDC; rep from * across, keeping posts aligned with previous row. Fasten off.

Weave in all ends securely. Weaving in ends so they never come loose explains the technique that holds through repeated washing and wear.

Steam block the finished cardigan lightly, focusing on the ribbed edges and pocket seams. The blocking tutorial covers steam vs. wet blocking and how to handle acrylic, wool, and blends.

Variations & Custom Adjustments

Cropped version: Stop body at 16–18 inches from shoulder. Proportions shift from slouchy to boxy. Works well over high-waisted pants and dresses.

Duster length: Add 4–6 inches to the body. You'll need approximately 200 extra yards. Choose a yarn with good drape — stiff fabric at duster length hangs awkwardly.

No pockets: Skip the pocket opening row. Work body straight through. The cardigan becomes a faster project with a cleaner silhouette.

Color-blocked yoke: Work yoke in one color, switch at underarm division. The horizontal line at the armhole creates a natural transition. Main color takes roughly two-thirds of total yardage.

Sleeve width: Skip decrease rounds for a wider, more dramatic sleeve. Add extra decreases for a snugger wrist. Keep both sleeves identical.

Troubleshooting Common Issues

Raglan lines are slanted or wandering: The increase column shifted. Count outward from the neck edge on both sides to confirm stitch counts match. Replace markers in the correct column and continue.

Front panels are different lengths: Count rows from underarm division on both sides. A one-row difference can be fudged with an extra row before the front band SC row — the ribbing hides it.

Pocket lining shows through to the front: Lining stitches may be too tight or caught the front fabric during seaming. Turn right-side out, gently tug lining away from body, and re-sew with looser tension if needed.

Sleeves too tight or loose at bicep: Raglan depth determines armhole circumference. Add an extra increase row before splitting for more room; skip one for a narrower sleeve.

Uneven front edges: If the edge waves before adding the band, you have too many SCs along the row ends. Skip every 4th or 5th row-end stitch. If it puckers, add an extra SC every few spaces. Fixing uneven edges in crochet covers both problems in detail.

Next-Level Tips

This raglan framework adapts to any textured stitch that follows a multiple of 2 + 1. Swap in a different four-row repeat and you have a new cardigan design using the same construction method.

For a shawl collar, don't fasten off after the front band ribbing. Work short rows at the neck edge, turning before the end of each row to build height at the back of the neck gradually.

Add a hood by picking up stitches along the finished neckline ribbing after the front bands are complete. Work in pattern in rows to your desired hood depth, then seam the top closed.

How to shape crochet projects and how to increase in crochet give you the skills to modify this pattern confidently to your own measurements.

Final Thoughts

If this is your first garment, the top-down raglan method is the most beginner-friendly construction I know. You see the shape develop row by row. You try it on. You adjust. There's no mystery about whether the pieces will align at the end because there are no pieces — it's one continuous fabric from neck to hem.

Use the yarn that fits your budget and climate. The pattern works in wool, acrylic, cotton blends, and most worsted-weight substitutes. Check your gauge, trust your stitch markers, and take the time to steam block the finished piece. It makes a real difference in how the fabric drapes and how professional the cardigan looks.

I'd love to see your finished version — tag me with your yarn choice and color. There's nothing better than seeing how different hands interpret the same pattern.

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