Lola Crossbody Bag

Create a gorgeous, textured accessory with this step-by-step Lola Crossbody Bag pattern, featuring a stunning wave design and a professional hand-sewn lining.

Have you ever spotted a crochet project that instantly made you want to grab your hook and dive in?

That is exactly how I felt when designing this textured beauty, with its rhythmic, undulating waves that mimic the gentle roll of the ocean.

But let's be completely honest for a moment.

Many of us hesitate to make crochet bags because we worry our keys, lip balms, or spare change will slip right through the gaps between the stitches.

The secret to a truly functional handmade purse is a simple, hand-sewn fabric lining.

I promise it is much easier to add than it sounds, and it transforms a pretty project into a durable, everyday accessory you will actually use.

Today, I am walking you through every single step of crafting this gorgeous bag, from the clever wave stitch sequence to the sturdy strap and the final decorative tassel.

We will be using a wonderful cotton-blend yarn that gives fantastic stitch definition without being heavy on your hands.

Grab a cup of tea, find a cozy spot, and let's get stitching together!

Why You'll Love This Pattern

• Stunning Wave Texture: The combination of short and tall stitches creates an eye-catching, modern ripple effect.
• One-Skein Wonder: You can easily complete this entire project using less than a single skein of bulky yarn.
• Practical and Secure: The custom fabric lining ensures your belongings stay safely inside your bag.

Materials You'll Need

• Yarn: Bernat Maker Home Dec (Bulky weight #5, 72% cotton / 28% nylon) in Clay, Aqua, or Cream.
• Hook: Size I (5.5mm) for the main body and Size H (5mm) for the bottom leveling.
• Notions: Tapestry needle (plastic is highly recommended), locking stitch markers or safety pins, purse or keychain clasps, 1/2 yard of matching lining fabric, and a sewing needle with matching thread.
• Yardage: Approximately 250 yards.

Gauge & Sizing

• Gauge: 5 wave repeats and 10 wave rounds equal the finished height of the bag.
• Sizes included: One size.
• Finished measurements: 10 inches wide by 10-3/4 inches tall.

Abbreviations & Stitch Instructions

• ch: Chain
• sl st: Slip stitch
• sc: Single crochet
• hdc: Half double crochet
• dc: Double crochet
• tr (Triple crochet): Wrap the yarn around your hook twice, insert your hook into the specified stitch and pull up a loop, you will now have 4 loops on your hook. Yarn over and pull through 2 loops, then repeat that process 2 more times to complete the stitch.
• dtr (Double treble crochet): Wrap the yarn around your hook 3 times, insert your hook into the specified stitch and pull up a loop, you will now have 5 loops on your hook. Yarn over and pull through 2 loops, then repeat that process 3 more times to complete the stitch.
• sc2tog (Single crochet two together): Pull up a loop in the next 2 stitches, yarn over, and pull through all 3 loops on your hook.
• sc3tog (Single crochet three together): Pull up a loop in the next 3 stitches, yarn over, and pull through all 4 loops on your hook.
• hdc3tog (Half double crochet three together): Yarn over and pull up a loop in the first stitch, yarn over and pull up a loop in the second stitch, yarn over and pull up a loop in the third stitch, yarn over and pull through all 7 loops on your hook.
• Need help with terms? Check out our handy US to UK Crochet Chart.

Pattern Notes

• Skill Level: Intermediate
• This pattern is written in US crochet terms.
• The item is worked in the round, turning at the end of the wave rounds to keep the pattern aligned.
• Tension Tip: Keep your tension even, especially when transitioning between very short stitches (like single crochet) and very tall stitches (like double treble).
• Customization Tip: You can easily adjust the width of the bag by changing your starting chain, as long as you keep your initial chain in a multiple of 16. If you want to learn how to make a different style of bag, check out our Free Crochet Bag Pattern, One Skein Boho Bag.

Step-by-Step Instructions

Step 1: Crafting the Wave Body

With your 5.5mm hook, Ch 80. Join with a sl st to the first chain, making sure not to twist the chain.

Round 1: Ch 1 (does not count as a stitch), work 1 sc in each chain around. Join with a sl st to the first sc. [80 sc]

Round 2: Ch 1 (does not count as a stitch), 1 hdc in the first stitch, ch 1, skip the next stitch, 1 hdc in the next stitch. *[Ch 1, skip 1 stitch, 1 dc in the next stitch, ch 1, skip 1 stitch, 1 tr in the next stitch, ch 1, skip 1 stitch, 1 dtr in the next stitch, ch 1, skip 1 stitch, 1 dtr in the next stitch, ch 1, skip 1 stitch, 1 tr in the next stitch, ch 1, skip 1 stitch, 1 dc in the next stitch, ch 1, skip 1 stitch, 1 hdc in the next stitch, ch 1, skip 1 stitch, 1 hdc in the next stitch]*. Repeat from * to * 3 more times. Ch 1, skip 1 stitch, 1 dc in the next stitch, ch 1, skip 1 stitch, 1 tr in the next stitch, ch 1, skip 1 stitch, 1 dtr in the next stitch, ch 1, skip 1, 1 dtr in the next stitch, ch 1, skip 1 stitch, 1 tr in the next stitch, ch 1, skip 1 stitch, 1 dc in the next stitch, ch 1, skip the last stitch. Join with a sl st to the first hdc. [40 stitches + 40 chains, forming 5 waves]

Round 3 (Marked Side): Ch 5 (counts as 1 dtr + ch 1), skip the next chain space, 1 tr in the next stitch, ch 1, skip the next chain space, 1 dc in the next stitch, ch 1, skip the next chain space, 1 hdc in the next stitch, ch 1, skip the next chain space, 1 hdc in the next stitch. *[Ch 1, skip the next chain space, 1 dc in the next stitch, ch 1, skip the next chain space, 1 tr in the next stitch, ch 1, skip the next chain space, 1 dtr in the next stitch, ch 1, skip the next chain space, 1 dtr in the next stitch, ch 1, skip the next chain space, 1 tr in the next stitch, ch 1, skip the next chain space, 1 dc in the next stitch, ch 1, skip the next chain space, 1 hdc in the next stitch, ch 1, skip the next chain space, 1 hdc in the next stitch]*. Repeat from * to * 3 more times. Ch 1, skip the next chain space, 1 dc in the next stitch, ch 1, skip the next chain space, 1 tr in the next stitch, ch 1, skip the next chain space, 1 dtr in the next stitch, ch 1, skip the last chain space. Join with a sl st to the 4th chain of your beginning chain-5.

Before turning your work, place a locking stitch marker or safety pin on this side of the fabric. This marked side will always be where you work your Round 3 repeats. Turn your work.

Round 4: Ch 3 (counts as hdc + ch 1), skip the next chain space, 1 hdc in the next stitch. *[Ch 1, skip the next chain space, 1 dc in the next stitch, ch 1, skip the next chain space, 1 tr in the next stitch, ch 1, skip the next chain space, 1 dtr in the next stitch, ch 1, skip the next chain space, 1 dtr in the next stitch, ch 1, skip the next chain space, 1 tr in the next stitch, ch 1, skip the next chain space, 1 dc in the next stitch, ch 1, skip the next chain space, 1 hdc in the next stitch, ch 1, skip the next chain space, 1 hdc in the next stitch]*. Repeat from * to * 3 more times. Ch 1, skip the next chain space, 1 dc in the next stitch, ch 1, skip the next chain space, 1 tr in the next stitch, ch 1, skip the next chain space, 1 dtr in the next stitch, ch 1, skip the next chain space, 1 dtr in the next stitch, ch 1, skip the next chain space, 1 tr in the next stitch, ch 1, skip the next chain space, 1 dc in the next stitch, ch 1, skip the last chain space. Join with a sl st to the 2nd chain of your beginning chain-3. Turn your work.

Rounds 5-10: Repeat Rounds 3 and 4 alternately until you have completed 10 wave rounds in total. Remember to always work Round 3 on the marked side.

Step 2: Leveling the Top Edge

Now we need to flatten out those waves to create a straight top edge. We will modify the stitch heights, eliminating the double treble stitches entirely.

Leveling Wave Round (worked on the side with no marker): Ch 3 (counts as hdc + ch 1), skip the next chain space, 1 hdc in the next stitch. *[Ch 1, skip the next chain space, 1 dc in the next stitch, ch 1, skip the next chain space, 1 dc in the next stitch, ch 1, skip the next chain space, 1 tr in the next stitch, ch 1, skip the next chain space, 1 tr in the next stitch, ch 1, skip the next chain space, 1 dc in the next stitch, ch 1, skip the next chain space, 1 dc in the next stitch, ch 1, skip the next chain space, 1 hdc in the next stitch, ch 1, skip the next chain space, 1 hdc in the next stitch]*. Repeat from * to * 3 more times. Ch 1, skip the next chain space, 1 dc in the next stitch, ch 1, skip the next chain space, 1 dc in the next stitch, ch 1, skip the next chain space, 1 tr in the next stitch, ch 1, skip the next chain space, 1 tr in the next stitch, ch 1, skip the next chain space, 1 dc in the next stitch, ch 1, skip the next chain space, 1 dc in the next stitch, ch 1, skip the last chain space. Join with a sl st to the 2nd chain of your beginning chain-3. Turn your work.

Top Round 1 (worked on the side with no marker): Ch 1 (does not count as a stitch), work 1 sc in the first stitch, then work 1 sc in each chain space and stitch across to the end. Do not slip stitch and do not turn. [80 sc]

Top Round 2: Work 1 sc in the first stitch of Round 1. Place a stitch marker in this stitch to mark the start of your round. Work 1 sc in each of the next 5 stitches, then sc2tog across the next 2 stitches. *[Work 1 sc in each of the next 6 stitches, then sc2tog across the next 2 stitches]*. Repeat from * to * until you reach the last 2 stitches before your marked stitch, ending with a sc2tog. Do not slip stitch and do not turn. [70 sc]

Top Round 3: Work 1 sc in the marked stitch, then move your marker up into the stitch you just made. Work 1 sc in each stitch around to the end. Do not slip stitch and do not turn. [70 sc]

Top Rounds 4-7: Repeat Round 3 four more times. Slip stitch to the marked stitch, fasten off, and weave in your ends.

Step 3: Closing the Bottom of the Bag

Flip your bag upside down. We will work into the free loops of your starting foundation chain on the marked side of your fabric.

Switch to your 5mm hook here, or consciously crochet a bit tighter to keep the bottom neat and sturdy. When working into the foundation chain, make sure your hook goes under the junction of two loops instead of just a single loop to prevent unsightly gaps.

First, locate your turning chains near the starting yarn tail. Fold the bag flat along this turning chain line to find the exact sides of your bag.

Leveling Round: Start at the side opposite the turning chain. Slip stitch into the point between the two double treble stitches on the side. Pull up a loop at this point and in the next 2 free loops of the foundation chain, yarn over and pull through all 4 loops on your hook to complete a sc3tog.

*[Work 1 sc in each free loop until you reach the loop right before a hdc stitch (the valleys), then work 1 hdc in this loop and the next 4 loops]*. Repeat this sequence until you reach the opposite side of the bag, then work a hdc3tog at the side.

*[Work 1 sc in each free loop until you reach the loop right before a hdc stitch, then work 1 hdc in this loop and the next 4 loops]*. Repeat from * to * to the end of the round. Join with a sl st to the first stitch. Do not fasten off or turn.

Seaming: Slip stitch the bottom shut by working through the front loop only of the layer closest to you and the back loop only of the layer behind it. Alternatively, you can use a tapestry needle to whip stitch the bottom closed. Turn the bag right side out.

Step 4: Creating the Strap Bases

We will now build up triangular bases on each side of the bag to attach our strap. Work on the right side of the bag where you completed the single crochet top rounds.

Mark 14 stitches symmetrically on one side of the bag (count 7 stitches forward from the corner and place a marker, then count 7 stitches backward on the other side and place a marker). Ensure your markers align perfectly.

Row 1: Slip stitch to the first marked stitch, sc2tog across this stitch and the next, work 1 sc in each of the next 10 stitches, then sc2tog across the next stitch and the second marked stitch, turn. [12 sts]

Row 2: Ch 1 (does not count as a stitch here and throughout), work 1 sc in each stitch across, turn. [12 sts]

Row 3: Ch 1, 1 sc in the first stitch, sc2tog across the next 2 stitches, work 1 sc in each stitch across until 3 stitches remain, sc2tog across the next 2 stitches, 1 sc in the last stitch, turn. [10 sts]

Row 4: Ch 1, work 1 sc in each stitch across, turn. [10 sts]

Rows 5-8: Repeat Rows 3 and 4 two more times. [6 sts]

Row 9: Ch 1, 1 sc in the first stitch, 1 sc in the next stitch, sc2tog, 1 sc in the last 2 stitches, turn. [5 sts]

Row 10: Ch 1, work 1 sc in each of the 5 stitches, turn. [5 sts]

Row 11: Ch 1, 1 sc in the first stitch, 1 sc in the next stitch, sc2tog, 1 sc in the last stitch, turn. [4 sts]

Row 12: Ch 1, work 1 sc in each of the 4 stitches. Fasten off. [4 sts]

Repeat this entire process on the opposite side of the bag, but do not fasten off at the end of Row 12. Instead, continue with your yarn and work a neat round of slip stitches all along the top edge of the bag to clean up any rough edges. Fasten off.

Step 5: Crocheting and Attaching the Strap

Because this cotton-blend yarn has a bit of natural stretch, we will make the strap slightly shorter than the final desired length. It will stretch perfectly once you start carrying your essentials!

Using your 5.5mm hook, leave a 1/2-yard tail for sewing and Ch 98.

Row 1: Work 1 sc in the 2nd chain from your hook and in each chain across to the end, turn. [97 sc]

Row 2: Ch 1, work 1 sc in each stitch across. Fasten off, leaving another 1/2-yard tail for sewing.

Assembly: Place the ends of the strap directly against the flat top edges of the strap bases you crocheted earlier. Ensure they touch but do not overlap. Using your tapestry needle and the long yarn tails, sew them securely together.

Step 6: Sewing the Fabric Lining

Before starting, weave in all your loose yarn tails.

Fold your lining fabric in half to match the height of your bag, placing the bottom fold along the base of the bag.

Using a pencil, trace the shape of the bag onto the fabric, leaving a 1/2-inch seam allowance on the sides and drawing a line slightly below the top single-crochet edge.

Cut out your fabric pieces and sew the side seams using a sturdy backstitch, leaving a 3/8-inch seam.

Fold the top edge of the fabric lining down by 1/2 inch. Insert the lining into your crochet bag, aligning the corners and seams.

Using a sewing needle and matching thread, hand-sew the folded top of the lining to the single crochet section of the bag. Be careful to only catch the inner loops of your crochet stitches so the sewing thread doesn't show on the outside!

Step 7: Making and Attaching the Tassel

Cut two 12-inch pieces of yarn and set them aside.

Wrap your yarn 10 times around a 4-1/4 inch piece of sturdy cardboard (be careful not to pull the yarn too tight as you wrap).

Thread one of your 12-inch yarn strands under the wrapped loops at the top and tie a secure double knot.

Cut the opposite end of the loops with sharp scissors.

Place your tassel over the second 12-inch strand of yarn and tie a tight knot about 1 cm below the top knot to form the tassel head. Tie a second knot to secure it.

Use a small crochet hook or tapestry needle to pull the loose ends of this tie down through the center of the tassel.

Use the top tie strands to secure the tassel to your purse clasp, then pull those remaining tails down through the tassel head as well.

Trim the bottom of your tassel so all the strands are perfectly even, then clip it to the side of your new bag!

Easy Variations & Custom Ideas

• Color Blocking: Try using three contrasting colors for a bold, modern look. You can use our Seamless Color Change Technique to make switching colors a breeze.
• Adjusting the Size: To make a larger tote or a smaller clutch, simply adjust your starting chain in multiples of 16.
• No-Lining Option: If you prefer a quick, unlined bag for beach days, use a tighter tension or a smaller hook to minimize the gaps.
• Leather Strap Swap: Skip crocheting the strap and attach a chic, ready-made leather crossbody strap using lobster clasps.
• Festive Holiday Version: Work this up in deep forest green or rich red, and swap the tassel for some adorable Crochet Amigurumi Pinecones for a cozy winter vibe.
• Yarn Substitutions: While Bernat Maker Home Dec is ideal, any sturdy bulky weight cotton or cotton-acrylic blend will work beautifully.

Common Troubleshooting & Fixes

• Problem: My waves are looking lopsided or aren't lining up correctly.
  Fix: Make sure you are turning your work at the end of every round. Also, double-check that your tallest double treble (dtr) stitches are stacked directly on top of the shortest half double crochet (hdc) stitches from the previous round.
• Problem: The bottom of my bag has large, unsightly holes.
  Fix: When working your leveling round into the starting chain, make sure your hook goes under the junction of two loops instead of just a single loop. This distributes the tension and prevents the chain from stretching out.
• Problem: My strap is stretching out too much and making the bag hang too low.
  Fix: Crochet cotton-blend straps tend to stretch with use. Crochet your strap about 2 to 3 inches shorter than your desired length, or line the strap with a strip of matching fabric to prevent stretching entirely.
• Problem: The top edge of my bag is wavy instead of flat.
  Fix: Ensure you followed the Leveling Wave Round instructions exactly. This round replaces the tall dtr stitches with shorter stitches to fill in the valleys and flatten the top edge.

Care Instructions

To keep your handmade bag looking its absolute best, I highly recommend hand washing it in cool water with a mild detergent. Gently squeeze out the excess water without wringing or twisting the fabric. Lay the bag flat on a clean towel to air dry, reshaping it as needed.

Final Thoughts

There is nothing quite like the feeling of stepping out with a beautiful, functional accessory that you made with your own two hands. This crossbody bag is the perfect blend of style and utility, and I know you are going to get so many compliments on it. Happy crocheting, my friends!