Snowflake Mittens Pattern

Keep your hands cozy and stylish this winter with this beautiful tapestry crochet snowflake mittens pattern, featuring a classic winter motif and a snug ribbed cuff.

There is nothing quite like the crisp magic of the first winter snowfall.

But let's be honest, freezing cold fingers can quickly ruin that winter wonderland vibe. Store-bought gloves often feel thin, lifeless, and completely lack that cozy, handmade charm we crave.

That is where a thick, beautifully textured pair of crochet mittens comes to the rescue. They trap the warmth perfectly while letting you show off your handmade style.

Today, I am thrilled to share my favorite snowflake mittens pattern with you. This project was my very first adventure into the world of tapestry crochet, and I fell head over heels in love with the process.

If you have ever felt intimidated by colorwork, do not worry. I spent hours testing, tweaking, and rewriting this pattern to make sure it is as smooth and stress-free as possible for you.

Grab your favorite mug of cocoa, pick out two contrasting colors, and let's dive into this cozy winter project together.

Why You'll Love This Pattern

• Tapestry Crochet Intro: It is the perfect beginner-friendly project to practice carrying yarn and reading a color chart.
• Seamless Comfort: Working in a continuous spiral means no bulky seams rubbing against your hands.
• Stunning Winter Style: The striking snowflake design looks intricate but uses simple, standard stitches.

Materials You'll Need

• Yarn: Worsted weight yarn (Category 4). The sample uses Lion Brand Vanna’s Choice in Colonial Blue (Main Color) and White (Contrasting Color).
• Hook: G (4.25 mm) crochet hook.
• Notions: Locking stitch markers, yarn needle, and scissors.
• Yardage: Approximately 150–180 yards of worsted weight yarn.

Gauge & Sizing

• Gauge: 17 sc x 16 rows = 4 inches (10 cm) in single crochet.
• Sizes included: One size to fit most adult women.
• Finished measurements: 9 inches in circumference when measured just above the thumb joint.

Abbreviations & Stitch Instructions

• ch: Chain
• sc: Single crochet
• sl st: Slip stitch
• BLO: Back loop only
• sc2tog: Single crochet decrease. Insert hook into the next stitch, pull up a loop, insert hook into the following stitch, pull up a loop, yarn over, and pull through all three loops on your hook.
• st(s): Stitch(es)

Pattern Notes

• Skill Level: Intermediate.
• This pattern is written in standard US crochet terms.
• The cuff is worked flat and seamed, while the hand and thumb are worked in a continuous spiral (in the round) without joining.
• Keep your tension consistent when carrying the unused yarn inside your stitches so the mitten doesn't bunch up.
• You can easily adjust the cuff length by adding or subtracting rows before seaming.

Step-by-Step Instructions

Step 1 - Crocheting the Ribbed Cuff

With your G hook and Main Color (Blue), chain 12.

Row 1: Work 1 sc in the second chain from your hook and in each chain across. Turn. (11 sc)

Row 2: Ch 1 (does not count as a stitch here or throughout), work 1 sc in the back loop of the first stitch, and 1 sc in the back loop of each of the next 10 stitches. Turn. (11 sc)

Rows 3–28: Repeat Row 2 twenty-six more times.

Seaming: Bring the short ends together. Slip stitch through the front loops of your last row and the starting chain loops of your first row to join them into a circular cuff. Do not fasten off. You should have 15 ridges around the band, including the seam ridge.

Step 2 - Setting Up the Mitten Palm

You will now work in a continuous spiral around the edge of the cuff. Do not join rounds with a slip stitch. Use a locking stitch marker to mark the first stitch of each round and move it up as you work.

Round 1: Ch 1 (does not count as a stitch), work 32 sc evenly around the edge of the ribbed cuff. Do not join. (32 sc)

Round 2: Work 1 sc in the first stitch (place your marker here), 1 sc in each of the next 14 stitches, 2 sc in the next stitch, 1 sc in each of the next 15 stitches, 2 sc in the last stitch before your marker. (34 sc)

Round 3: 1 sc in the marked stitch (move marker up), 1 sc in the next 15 stitches, 2 sc in the next stitch, 1 sc in the next 16 stitches, 2 sc in the last stitch. (36 sc)

Round 4: 1 sc in the marked stitch (move marker up), 1 sc in each stitch around. (36 sc)

Round 5: 1 sc in the marked stitch (move marker up), 1 sc in the next 16 stitches, 2 sc in the next stitch, 1 sc in the next 17 stitches, 2 sc in the last stitch. (38 sc)

Round 6: 1 sc in the marked stitch (move marker up), 1 sc in the next 17 stitches, 2 sc in the next stitch, 1 sc in the next 18 stitches, 2 sc in the last stitch. (40 sc)

Round 7: 1 sc in the marked stitch (move marker up), 1 sc in each stitch around. (40 sc)

Round 8: 1 sc in the marked stitch (move marker up), 1 sc in the next 18 stitches, 2 sc in the next stitch, 1 sc in the next 19 stitches, 2 sc in the last stitch. (42 sc)

Round 9: 1 sc in the marked stitch (move marker up), 1 sc in each stitch around. (42 sc)

Round 10: 1 sc in the marked stitch (move marker up), 1 sc in the next 19 stitches, 2 sc in the next stitch, 1 sc in the next 20 stitches, 2 sc in the last stitch. (44 sc)

Step 3 - Working the Snowflake Colorwork

To change colors seamlessly, start your single crochet as normal, then pull the new color through the last two loops on your hook. Carry the unused color by crocheting over it. Check out our guide on Seamless Crochet Color Changes for a detailed walkthrough.

Round 11: 1 sc in the marked stitch (move marker up), work 17 sc in Blue (B), 1 sc in White (W), 5 sc in B, 1 sc in W, then work 1 sc in B in each remaining stitch around. (44 sc)

Round 12: 1 sc in the marked stitch (move marker up), 2 sc in the next stitch, work in B up to the stitch before the first white stitch, 2 sc in W, 3 sc in B, 2 sc in W, 1 sc in B in each of the next 2 stitches, 2 sc in B, then work in B to the end of the round. (46 sts)

Round 13: 1 sc in the marked stitch (move marker up), work in B up to the stitch before the white section, 3 sc in W, 2 sc in B, 3 sc in W, then work in B to the end of the round. (46 sts)

Round 14: 1 sc in the marked stitch (move marker up), work in B until 3 stitches remain before the white section, 3 sc in W, 1 sc in B, 2 sc in W, 2 sc in B, 2 sc in W, 1 sc in B, 3 sc in W, then work in B to the end of the round. (46 sts)

Round 15: 1 sc in the marked stitch (move marker up), work in B until you reach the first white stitch, 3 sc in W, 1 sc in B, 1 sc in W, 2 sc in B, 1 sc in W, 1 sc in B, 3 sc in W, then work in B to the end of the round. (46 sts)

Take a moment to weave in any loose tails inside the mitten now using a yarn needle. It gets much trickier once the mitten grows taller! You can read more about Weaving Crochet Tails to make sure they stay secure.

Step 4 - Splitting for the Thumb Hole

Left Mitten Round 16: Count back from the first white stitch of the previous round to ensure your marker is on the 17th stitch (leaving 16 stitches between the marker and the first white stitch). Skip the next 13 stitches (including the marked stitch) to create the thumb hole. Work 1 sc into the 14th stitch (pull tight and place your marker here). Continue crocheting over the white yarn: work 1 sc in B in the next 4 stitches, 3 sc in W, 4 sc in B, 3 sc in W, then work in B to the end of the round. (33 sts remaining)

Right Mitten Round 16: Ensure there are 16 stitches between your marker and the first white stitch. Work 1 sc in B in the marked stitch (move marker up), work in B until you reach the first white stitch, 3 sc in W, 4 sc in B, 3 sc in W, 4 sc in B. Skip the next 13 stitches, then work 1 sc into the 14th stitch (which is the stitch right before the marked one). Move your marker into this new stitch. (33 sts remaining)

Step 5 - Completing the Snowflake Motif

Round 17: Work in B until you have crocheted into the first 3 white stitches and 2 blue stitches of the snowflake design, 1 sc in W, then work in B to the end of the round. (33 sts)

Round 18: Work in B until 4 stitches remain before the single white stitch, 3 sc in W, 3 sc in B, 3 sc in W, then work in B to the end of the round. (33 sts)

Round 19: Work in B until 1 stitch remains before the white section, 3 sc in W, 1 sc in B, 1 sc in W, 1 sc in B, 1 sc in W, 1 sc in B, 3 sc in W, then work in B to the end of the round. (33 sts)

Round 20: Work in B until 1 stitch remains before the white section, 3 sc in W, 1 sc in B, 2 sc in W, 1 sc in B, 2 sc in W, 1 sc in B, 3 sc in W, then work in B to the end of the round. (33 sts)

Round 21: Work in B until you have crocheted into 3 white stitches, 3 sc in W, 1 sc in B, 3 sc in W, then work in B to the end of the round. (33 sts)

Round 22: Work in B until you reach the stitch before the white section, 2 sc in W, 3 sc in B, 2 sc in W, then work in B to the end of the round. (33 sts)

Round 23: Work in B until you reach the stitch before the white section, 1 sc in W on top of the first white stitch, 5 sc in B, 1 sc in W. Drop the white yarn and snip it, leaving a 3-inch tail. Tie a secure knot on the inside of the mitten. Work in B over the white tail to the end of the round. (33 sts)

The snowflake is now complete! You will work only with the Blue yarn for the rest of the mitten.

Step 6 - Crocheting the Mitten Top

Round 24: 1 sc in the marked stitch (move marker up), 1 sc in each stitch around. (33 sc)

Rounds 25+: Repeat Round 24 until the mitten measures 2.5 inches from the thumb hole opening.

Decrease Round 1: 1 sc in the marked stitch (move marker up), 1 sc in each of the next 8 stitches, sc2tog, *(1 sc in the next 9 stitches, sc2tog), repeat from * to the end of the round. (30 sc)

Decrease Round 2: 1 sc in the marked stitch (move marker up), 1 sc in each of the next 7 stitches, sc2tog, *(1 sc in the next 8 stitches, sc2tog), repeat from * to the end of the round. (27 sc)

Decrease Round 3: 1 sc in the marked stitch (move marker up), 1 sc in each stitch around. (27 sc)

Decrease Round 4: 1 sc in the marked stitch (move marker up), 1 sc in each of the next 6 stitches, sc2tog, *(1 sc in the next 7 stitches, sc2tog), repeat from * to the end of the round. (24 sc)

Decrease Round 5: 1 sc in the marked stitch (move marker up), 1 sc in each stitch around. (24 sc)

Decrease Round 6: Starting from the marked stitch, work sc2tog 12 times around. (12 sc)

Decrease Round 7: 1 sc in the marked stitch (move marker up), 1 sc in each stitch around. (12 sc)

Decrease Round 8: 1 sc in the marked stitch (move marker up), sc2tog, *(1 sc in the next stitch, sc2tog), repeat from * two more times. Fasten off, leaving an 8-inch tail. (8 sc)

Thread the tail onto a yarn needle. Weave it in and out of the front loops of the remaining 8 stitches, pull tight to close the opening, knot securely, and weave in your ends.

Step 7 - Crocheting the Thumb

To avoid a gap at the base of the thumb, we will work a single crochet directly into the junction where the thumb hole meets the palm.

Round 1: Join your Blue yarn with a slip stitch a few stitches before the thumb hole junction. Work 1 sc in the same stitch. Crochet over your starting tail, working 1 sc in each stitch around the opening. When you reach the junction, work 1 sc into the side of the palm, then work 1 sc in the next 2 stitches, sc2tog, and sc in each remaining stitch around. Do not join.

Rounds 2+: Continue working sc in a continuous spiral until the thumb measures 2 inches from the base.

Decrease Round 1: *(1 sc in the next stitch, sc2tog), repeat from * a total of 4 times around.

Decrease Round 2: 1 sc in the next 9 stitches, sc2tog, 1 sc, sc2tog, 1 sc. Fasten off, leaving an 8-inch tail.

Thread the tail onto your needle, weave through the front loops of the last 8 stitches, pull tight to close, knot, and weave in the remaining tail.

Easy Variations & Custom Ideas

• Cozy Neutral Palette: Swap the colonial blue for a soft charcoal grey or warm beige to create a minimalist, modern winter look.
• Matching Accessories: Pair these mittens with a matching Ivy Chunky Cowl Pattern to make a gorgeous, gift-worthy winter set.
• Adjusting the Size: To make these for smaller hands, use a smaller F (3.75 mm) hook, or scale up to an H (5.0 mm) hook for a roomier fit.
• Matching Footwear: Complete your cozy handmade look by styling these mittens with a pair of Origami Crochet Slippers for the ultimate snow-day outfit.
• Kid-Friendly Set: Make a matching set for your little ones and pair them with some adorable Toddler Classic Snow Boots.
• Colour ideas: Try forest green with cream, or a festive cranberry red with white for a holiday-themed pair.
• Yarn substitutions: Any soft, premium worsted weight acrylic or wool blend will work beautifully, such as Red Heart Soft or Paintbox Yarns Simply Aran.

Common Troubleshooting & Fixes

• Problem: The white yarn is showing through my blue stitches.
  Fix: Keep a gentle tension on your carried yarn. Give the white strand a light tug every few stitches to make it disappear behind the blue stitches.
• Problem: My mitten feels too stiff and tight.
  Fix: Tapestry crochet naturally creates a denser fabric. If your stitches are too tight, try switching to a larger hook size to loosen up your gauge.
• Problem: I keep losing track of my rounds.
  Fix: Always use a locking stitch marker or a safety pin in the very first stitch of each round. Move it up immediately after making that first stitch.
• Problem: There is a noticeable hole at the base of my thumb.
  Fix: Make sure to work an extra single crochet directly into the side junction where the thumb opening meets the palm. This extra stitch bridges the gap perfectly.

Care Instructions

To keep your mittens looking beautiful season after season, hand wash them in cool water with a mild wool wash. Lay them flat on a clean towel to air dry. Avoid machine washing or drying, as this can cause the carried yarn strands to pull or pill.

Final Thoughts

There is nothing quite like the feeling of wearing something you made with your own two hands on a chilly winter day. I hope you enjoy making these snowflake mittens as much as I enjoyed designing them. Don't forget to share your finished projects with me—I would love to see the color combinations you choose!