Rune Crochet Pullover

Wrap yourself in handmade comfort with this gorgeous, texture-rich drop-shoulder sweater featuring a relaxed fit and beautifully draped sleeves.

Have you ever stared at a gorgeous boutique sweater and thought, "I wish I could make that"? I know that feeling of wanting to dive into garment making but feeling completely overwhelmed by complicated shaping.

It is intimidating.

Most sweater patterns require endless counting, complex armhole decreases, and frustrating math. One wrong step and your sleeve does not fit.

That is exactly why I designed this drop-shoulder pullover. By skipping the armhole shaping entirely and focusing on a simple, repeating stitch pattern, you can create a stunning, professional-looking garment without the stress. It is the perfect project to build your confidence.

We will be working the front and back panels flat, seaming them together, and then adding cozy sleeves. The beautiful texture has a wonderful bounce that mimics a high-end knit piece.

Let's grab our hooks and get started!

Why You'll Love This Pattern

• No-Stress Shaping: The drop-shoulder design means you do not have to worry about complex armhole curves.
• Stunning Knit-Like Texture: Using clever post stitches creates a gorgeous, squishy fabric that looks incredibly high-end.
• Customizable Fit: With 6 inches of positive ease, this sweater is designed to drape beautifully on any body type.

Materials You'll Need

• Yarn: Lion Brand Wool-Ease (Worsted weight, size 4, 197 yards per skein) in Gold.
• Hook: Size J (6 mm) for the main body and size I (5.5 mm) for the ribbing.
• Notions: Yarn needle for weaving crochet tails, stitch markers.
• Yardage: Approximately 5 (5, 6) (6, 7) skeins of Lion Brand Wool-Ease, or about 985 (985, 1182) (1182, 1379) yards of worsted weight yarn.

Gauge & Sizing

• Gauge: 6 bumps = 7 inches; 4 bumpy lines (8 rows) = 4 inches using the J (6 mm) hook.
• Sizes included: XS/S, M, L, XL, 2XL.
• Finished measurements:
  • XS/S: 42" chest, 22" long
  • M: 44" chest, 22" long
  • L: 48" chest, 22" long
  • XL: 50" chest, 23" long
  • 2XL: 56" chest, 23" long
  Note on length: The fabric stretches an additional 4-5 inches when worn, resulting in an actual worn length of 26-28 inches.

Abbreviations & Stitch Instructions

• ch: Chain
• sc: Single crochet
• hdc: Half double crochet
• dc: Double crochet
• sl st: Slip stitch
• fpsc: Front post single crochet. (Insert hook from front to back to front around the post of the stitch, yarn over, pull up a loop, yarn over, pull through both loops. See our Crochet Post Stitch Guide for a detailed walkthrough.)
• fphdc: Front post half double crochet. (Yarn over, insert hook from front to back to front around the post of the stitch, yarn over, pull up a loop, yarn over, pull through all three loops.)
• fsc: Foundation single crochet. (Working the foundation chain and first row of single crochet simultaneously.)
• sc2tog: Single crochet two together. (Insert hook in first stitch, pull up a loop, insert hook in next stitch, pull up a loop, yarn over, pull through all three loops.)
• dc2tog: Double crochet two together. (Yarn over, insert hook in first stitch, pull up a loop, yarn over, pull through two loops, yarn over, insert hook in next stitch, pull up a loop, yarn over, pull through two loops, yarn over, pull through all three loops.)
• hdc2tog: Half double crochet two together. (Yarn over, pull up a loop in the next stitch, yarn over, pull up a loop in the following stitch, yarn over, pull through all five loops.)

Pattern Notes

• Skill Level: Intermediate beginner.
• This pattern is written in US crochet terms.
• The item is worked flat in separate panels (front, back, and sleeves) and then seamed together.
• Tension Tip: Keep your slip stitches loose when joining the ribbing to prevent the bottom edge from puckering.
• Customization Tip: You can easily adjust the length of the body by adding or subtracting rows before starting the neck shaping, but keep in mind the fabric stretches significantly when worn.

Step-by-Step Instructions

Front Panel

Using J (6 mm) hook, Fsc 77 (81, 89) (93, 101), turn. [77 (81, 89) (93, 101) sc]

Row 2: Ch 3 (counts as dc), 2 dc in first st, *[sk 3 sts, (1 sc, ch 3, 3 dc) in next st], repeat from * until 4 sts remain, sk 3 sts, 1 sc in last st, turn. [19 (20, 22) (23, 25) projections]

Row 3: Ch 3, 2 dc in first st, *[sk 2 dc, fpsc in next dc, ch 3, 3 dc in next ch-3 space], repeat from * until last ch-3 space, after 3 dc in last ch-3 space, sk 2 dc, fpsc around beginning ch 3, turn. [19 (20, 22) (23, 25) projections]

Note: While working Row 3, the fpsc will push your ch-3 loop behind. Look behind the fpsc to find the ch-3 loop adjacent to it.

Repeat Row 3 until piece measures 17 (17, 17) (18, 18) inches. Do not fasten off.

Front Neck Shaping

Marking: Skip 5 (5, 6) (6, 7) peaks from the working yarn side, place marker in ch-3 loop of next peak. Skip next 6 (7, 7, 8, 8) peaks, place marker in ch-3 loop of next peak.

First Shoulder

Row 1: Starting at outer edge, ch 3, 2 dc in first st, *[sk 2 dc, fpsc in next dc, ch 3, 3 dc in next ch-3 space], repeat from * 4 (4, 5) (5, 6) more times, sk 2 dc, 1 fpsc in next dc, dc2tog in marked ch-3 loop, turn.

Row 2: Ch 2, 2 dc in first st, *[sk 2 dc, fpsc in next dc, ch 3, 3 dc in next ch-3 space], repeat from * 4 (4, 5) (5, 6) more times, sk 2 dc, 1 fpsc around beginning ch 3, turn.

Row 3: Ch 3, 2 dc in first st, *[sk 2 dc, fpsc in next dc, ch 3, 3 dc in next ch-3 space], repeat from * 4 (4, 5) (5, 6) more times, sk 2 dc, fpsc around beginning ch-2, turn.

Rows 4-5: Repeat Row 3 of first shoulder.

Row 6 (Leveling Row): Ch 2, 2 hdc in first st, *(sk 1 dc, 1 sc in next 2 dc, 2 sc in next ch-loop), repeat from * until last ch-loop, after 2 sc in last ch-loop, sk 1 dc, 1 sc in next dc, 2 sc on top of beginning ch. Fasten off, leaving a 2.5 (2.5, 3) (3, 4) yard tail for seaming.

Second Shoulder

Row 1: Join yarn with sl st in ch-3 space of second marked peak. Ch 2, dc2tog in same ch-3 space, *[sk 2 dc, fpsc in next dc, ch 3, 3 dc in next ch-3 space], repeat from * 4 (4, 5) (5, 6) more times, sk 2 dc, fpsc around beginning ch-3, turn.

Row 2: Ch 3, 2 dc in first st, *[sk 2 dc, fpsc in next dc, ch 3, 3 dc in next ch-3 space], repeat from * 4 (4, 5) (5, 6) more times, sk next fpsc and next st (the dc2tog), 1 fpsc around beginning ch-2, turn.

Row 3: Ch 3, 2 dc in first st, *[sk 2 dc, fpsc in next dc, ch 3, 3 dc in next ch-3 space], repeat from * 4 (4, 5) (5, 6) more times, sk 2 dc, fpsc around beginning ch-3, turn.

Rows 4-5: Repeat Row 3 of second shoulder.

Row 6 (Leveling Row): Ch 2, 2 hdc in first st, *(sk 1 dc, 1 sc in next 2 dc, 2 sc in next ch-loop), repeat from * until last ch-loop, after 2 sc in last ch-loop, sk 1 dc, 1 sc in next dc, 2 sc on top of beginning ch. Do not fasten off.

Neck Leveling: Ch 1, work 9 sc evenly along neck edge to first marker, *(1 sc in next 3 dc, 1 sc in next fpsc, sk first ch of ch-3 loop, 1 sc in next ch, sk next ch), repeat from * to second marker, 9 sc along remaining neck edge. Fasten off. Keep markers in place.

Back Panel

Using J (6 mm) hook, Fsc 77 (81, 89) (93, 101), turn. [77 (81, 89) (93, 101) sc]

Row 2: Ch 3, 2 dc in first st, *[sk 3 sts, (1 sc, ch 3, 3 dc) in next st], repeat from * until 4 sts remain, sk 3 sts, 1 sc in last st, turn. [19 (20, 22) (23, 25) projections]

Row 3: Ch 3, 2 dc in first st, *[sk 2 dc, fpsc in next dc, ch 3, 3 dc in next ch-3 space], repeat from * until last ch-3 space, after 3 dc in last ch-3 space, sk 2 dc, fpsc around beginning ch 3, turn. [19 (20, 22) (23, 25) projections]

Repeat Row 3 until back measures 18 (18, 18) (19, 19) inches. Do not fasten off.

Back Neck Shaping

Marking: Skip 5 (5, 6) (6, 7) peaks from working yarn side, place marker in ch-3 loop of next peak. Skip next 6 (7, 7, 8, 8) peaks, place marker in ch-3 loop of next peak.

First Shoulder

Row 1: Starting at outer edge, ch 3, 2 dc in first st, *[sk 2 dc, fpsc in next dc, ch 3, 3 dc in next ch-3 space], repeat from * 4 (4, 5) (5, 6) more times, sk 2 dc, 1 fpsc in next dc, dc2tog in marked ch-3 loop, turn.

Row 2: Ch 2, 2 dc in first st, *[sk 2 dc, fpsc in next dc, ch 3, 3 dc in next ch-3 space], repeat from * 4 (4, 5) (5, 6) more times, sk 2 dc, 1 fpsc around beginning ch 3, turn.

Row 3: Ch 3, 2 dc in first st, *[sk 2 dc, fpsc in next dc, ch 3, 3 dc in next ch-3 space], repeat from * 4 (4, 5) (5, 6) more times, sk 2 dc, fpsc around beginning ch-2, turn.

Row 4 (Leveling Row): Ch 2, 2 hdc in first st, *(sk 1 dc, 1 sc in next 2 dc, 2 sc in next ch-loop), repeat from * until last ch-loop, after 2 sc in last ch-loop, sk 1 dc, 1 sc in next dc, 2 sc on top of beginning ch. Fasten off, leaving a 2.5 (2.5, 3) (3, 4) yard tail for seaming.

Second Shoulder

Row 1: Join yarn with sl st in ch-3 space of second marked peak. Ch 2, dc2tog in same ch-3 space, *[sk 2 dc, fpsc in next dc, ch 3, 3 dc in next ch-3 space], repeat from * 4 (4, 5) (5, 6) more times, sk 2 dc, fpsc around beginning ch-3, turn.

Row 2: Ch 3, 2 dc in first st, *[sk 2 dc, fpsc in next dc, ch 3, 3 dc in next ch-3 space], repeat from * 4 (4, 5) (5, 6) more times, sk next fpsc and next st (the dc2tog), 1 fpsc around beginning ch-2, turn.

Row 3: Ch 3, 2 dc in first st, *[sk 2 dc, fpsc in next dc, ch 3, 3 dc in next ch-3 space], repeat from * 4 (4, 5) (5, 6) more times, sk 2 dc, fpsc around beginning ch-3, turn.

Row 4 (Leveling Row): Ch 2, 2 hdc in first st, *(sk 1 dc, 1 sc in next 2 dc, 2 sc in next ch-loop), repeat from * until last ch-loop, after 2 sc in last ch-loop, sk 1 dc, 1 sc in next dc, 2 sc on top of beginning ch. Do not fasten off.

Neck Leveling: Ch 1, work 5 sc evenly along neck edge to first marker, *(1 sc in next 3 dc, 1 sc in next fpsc, sk first ch of ch-3 loop, 1 sc in next ch, sk next ch), repeat from * to second marker, 5 sc along remaining neck edge. Do not take the markers out yet.

Ribbing for Front and Back (Make 2)

Using I (5.5 mm) hook, ch 11.

Row 1: 1 sc in 2nd ch from hook and each st to end, turn. [10 sc]

Row 2: Ch 1 (not counted as st), working in BLO, 1 sc in first st, 1 sc in each st to end, turn. [10 sc]

Repeat Row 2 until ribbing measures 18 (19, 21) (22, 25) inches unstretched.

Assembly: Using J (6 mm) hook, slip stitch (or whip stitch) the ribbing to the bottom of the front and back panels, stretching slightly to fit. Keep slip stitches loose.

Joining Front and Back

Using J (6 mm) hook, slip stitch the shoulders together using the long yarn tails.

Slip stitch the side seams, leaving an 8 (8, 9) (9.5, 10) inch opening at the top for the armholes.

Armhole Edging

Turn pullover inside out (work on right side).

Round 1: Sl st to side seam at base of armhole, ch 2 (counts as hdc), work 52 (52, 60) (64, 68) hdc evenly around armhole, sl st to beg ch-2. Do not turn. [53 (53, 61) (65, 69) hdc]

Rounds 2-4: Ch 2, 1 hdc in 3rd loop of next hdc and each st around, sl st to beg ch-2. Do not turn.

Round 5: Ch 1, 1 sc in 3rd loop of next hdc and each st around, sl st to beg ch-1. Do not turn.

Round 6: Ch 1, 1 sc in each st around, sl st to beg ch-1. Fasten off.

Neck Edging

Work on right side using I (5.5 mm) hook.

Round 1: Sl st at shoulder seam, ch 2, 1 hdc in same seam, 1 hdc in each st around, sl st to beg ch-2. Do not turn. (Work hdc tightly).

Round 2: Ch 2, 1 hdc in 3rd loop of each hdc until near first marker, (hdc2tog in 3rd loop of next 2 sts) twice, place marker in first hdc2tog, *[1 hdc in 3rd loop of each st to next marker, (hdc2tog in 3rd loop of next 2 sts) twice, place marker in first decrease]*, repeat from * 2 more times, 1 hdc in 3rd loop of each st to end, sl st to beg ch-2. Do not turn. (4 markers placed at corner decreases).

Round 3: Ch 2, *(1 hdc in 3rd loop of each hdc to marker, hdc2tog in 3rd loop of marked st and next st), repeat from * 3 more times, 1 hdc in 3rd loop of each st to end, sl st to beg ch-2.

Round 4: Ch 1, 1 sc in 3rd loop of each st around, sl st to first sc. Do not turn.

Round 5: Ch 1, work 1 sl st loosely in each sc around, sl st to beg ch-1. Fasten off.

Sleeves (Make 2)

Using J (6 mm) hook, Fsc 53 (53, 61) (65, 69), turn.

Row 1: Ch 3, 2 dc in first st, *[sk 3 sts, (1 sc, ch 3, 3 dc) in next st], repeat from * until 4 sts remain, sk 3 sts, 1 sc in last st, turn. [13 (13, 15) (16, 17) projections; row is 15 (15, 17) (18, 19) inches long]

Row 2: Ch 3, do not work dc in first st, *[sk 2 dc, 1 fpsc in next dc, ch 3, 3 dc in next ch-3 space], repeat from * 11 (11, 13, 14, 15) more times, sk 2 dc, fpsc around beginning ch 3, turn. [12 (12, 14) (15, 16) projections]

Row 3: Ch 3, do not work dc in first st, *[sk 2 dc, 1 fpsc in next dc, ch 3, 3 dc in next ch-3 space], repeat from * 11 (11, 13, 14, 15) more times, fpsc around beginning ch 3, turn. [12 (12, 14) (15, 16) projections]

Row 4: Ch 3, do not work dc in first st, sk 2 dc, 1 fpsc in next dc, ch 3, 2 dc in next ch-3 space, *[sk 2 dc, 1 fpsc in next dc, ch 3, 3 dc in next ch-3 space], repeat from * 9 (9, 11) (12, 13) more times, sk 2 dc, fpsc in next dc, ch 3, 2 dc in next ch-3 space, 1 fpsc around beginning ch 3, turn. [12 (12, 14) (15, 16) projections; end ones are smaller]

Row 5: Ch 3, do not work dc in first st, sk 1 dc, 1 fpsc in next dc, ch 3, 1 dc in next ch-3 space, *[sk 2 dc, 1 fpsc in next dc, ch 3, 3 dc in next ch-3 space], repeat from * 9 (9, 11) (12, 13) more times, sk 1 dc, fpsc in next dc, ch 3, 1 dc in next ch-3 space, 1 fpsc around beginning ch-3, turn. [10 (10, 12) (13, 14) prominent projections]

Row 6: Ch 3, sk next slanting dc, 1 dc in next ch-loop, *[sk 2 dc, 1 fpsc in next dc, ch 3, 3 dc in next ch-3 space], repeat from * 9 (9, 11) (12, 13) more times, sk next dc, 1 dc in next ch-loop, 1 fpsc around beginning ch, turn. [10 (10, 12) (13, 14) projections]

Row 7: Ch 3, sk next slanting dc, *[sk 2 dc, 1 fpsc in next dc, ch 3, 3 dc in next ch-3 space], repeat from * 8 (8, 10) (11, 12) more times, sk 2 dc, fpsc in next dc, ch 3, 2 dc in next ch-3 space, sk next dc, 1 fpsc around beginning ch, turn. [10 (10, 12) (13, 14) projections]

Row 8: Ch 3, sk 1 dc, 1 fpsc in next dc, ch 3, 3 dc in next ch-3 space, *[sk 2 dc, 1 fpsc in next dc, ch 3, 3 dc in next ch-3 space], repeat from * 8 (8, 10) (11, 12) more times, 1 fpsc around beginning ch-3, turn. [10 (10, 12) (13, 14) projections]

Row 9: Ch 3, *[sk 2 dc, 1 fpsc in next dc, ch 3, 3 dc in next ch-3 space], repeat from * 9 (9, 11, 13, 14) more times, 1 fpsc around beginning ch-3, turn. [10 (10, 12) (13, 14) projections]

Sizes S and M Only

Repeat Row 9 until sleeve measures 11 (11.5) inches.

Leveling Row: Ch 3, 1 dc in first st, *(sk next dc, 1 sc in next 2 dc, 2 sc in next ch-loop), repeat from * until last ch-loop, after 2 sc in last ch-loop, 1 fphdc around beginning ch. Fasten off.

Sizes L, XL, and 2XL Only

Repeat Row 9 four more times.

Row 14: Ch 3, sk 2 dc, fpsc in next dc, ch 3, 2 dc in next ch-3 space, *[sk 2 dc, 1 fpsc in next dc, ch 3, 3 dc in next ch-3 space], repeat from * 9 (10, 11) more times, sk 2 dc, 1 fpsc in next dc, ch 3, 2 dc in next ch-3 space, fpsc around beginning ch, turn. [12 (13, 14) projections; end ones are smaller]

Row 15: Ch 3, sk 1 dc, 1 fpsc in next dc, ch 3, 2 dc in next ch-3 space, *[sk 2 dc, 1 fpsc in next dc, ch 3, 3 dc in next ch-3 space], repeat from * 9 (10, 11) more times, sk 1 dc, fpsc in next dc, ch 3, 2 dc in next ch-3 space, fpsc around beginning ch, turn. [12 (13, 14) projections; end ones are smaller]

Row 16: Ch 3, sk 1 dc, 1 fpsc in next dc, ch 3, 1 dc in next ch-3 space, *[sk 2 dc, 1 fpsc in next dc, ch 3, 3 dc in next ch-3 space], repeat from * 9 (10, 11) more times, sk 1 dc, 1 fpsc in next dc, ch 3, 1 dc in next ch-3 space, fpsc around beginning ch, turn. [10 (11, 12) prominent projections; end ones flattened]

Row 17: Ch 3, 1 dc in next slanting dc, 1 dc in next ch-3 space, *[sk 2 dc, 1 fpsc in next dc, ch 3, 3 dc in next ch-3 space], repeat from * 9 (10, 11) more times, 1 dc in next dc, 1 dc in next ch-3 space, fpsc around beginning ch. [10 (11, 12) prominent projections]

Row 18: Ch 3, dc2tog in next 2 dc, *[sk 2 dc, 1 fpsc in next dc, ch 3, 3 dc in next ch-3 space], repeat from * 9 (10, 11) more times, dc2tog in next 2 dc, fpsc around beginning ch, turn. [10 (11, 12) prominent projections]

Row 19: Ch 3, 1 dc in next dc, *[sk 2 dc, 1 fpsc in next dc, ch 3, 3 dc in next ch-3 space], repeat from * 9 (10, 11) more times, 1 dc in next dc, fpsc around beginning ch, turn. [10 (11, 12) prominent projections]

Repeat Row 19 until sleeve measures 11.5 (11, 10.5) inches.

Leveling Row: Ch 3, 1 hdc in next dc, *(sk 1 dc, 1 sc in next 2 dc, 2 sc in next ch-3 loop), repeat from * until last ch-3 loop, after 2 sc in last ch-3 loop, 1 hdc in next dc, fphdc around beginning ch. Fasten off.

Sleeve Cuff Ribbing (All Sizes)

Using I (5.5 mm) hook, ch 11.

Row 1: 1 sc in 2nd ch from hook and each st to end, turn. [10 sc]

Row 2: Ch 1 (not counted as st), working in BLO, 1 sc in first st, 1 sc in each st to end, turn. [10 sc]

Repeat Row 2 until cuff measures 8.5 (8.5, 9.5) (10.5, 11.5) inches unstretched.

Assembly: Using J (6 mm) hook, slip stitch the ribbing to the base of the sleeve. Fold sleeve and slip stitch the side seam to form a tube.

Attaching Sleeves

Turn sweater wrong side out. Keep sleeve right side out. Insert sleeve through armhole, align edges, and slip stitch together using J (6 mm) hook. Keep slip stitches loose.

Easy Variations & Custom Ideas

• Contrasting Ribbing: Work the cuffs, bottom ribbing, and neckband in a contrasting color for a modern color-blocked look. Learn more about clean transitions in our Seamless Crochet Color Changes guide.
• Cropped Length: Stop repeating Row 3 early on the front and back panels to create a trendy cropped silhouette, similar to our Snowdrift Crochet Cardigan.
• Bell Sleeves: Skip the sleeve decreases and work straight down to create wide, flowing bell sleeves before adding a loose cuff.
• Cozy Turtleneck: Instead of a simple neckband, continue working rounds of front post/back post stitches to build a warm turtleneck.
• Lightweight Version: Swap the worsted weight yarn for a lightweight DK yarn and a smaller hook to make a transitional spring pullover, much like the Poppy Baby Sweater.
• Colour ideas: Rich jewel tones like emerald green, deep plum, or classic mustard gold work beautifully with this textured stitch.
• Yarn substitutions: Any standard worsted weight (size 4) yarn with good stitch definition, such as Red Heart Soft, Caron Simply Soft, or Plymouth Encore.

Common Troubleshooting & Fixes

• Problem: The bottom ribbing is too tight and makes the sweater flare out.
  Fix: When slip stitching the ribbing to the body, make sure your stitches are very loose. If it still puckers, switch to a larger hook for the joining seam.
• Problem: The neck opening is too wide or stretches out.
  Fix: Ensure you are working your half double crochets tightly during the first round of the neck edging. You can also add an extra decrease round if needed.
• Problem: The sleeves feel too long or too short.
  Fix: Because this is a drop-shoulder design, the shoulder seam sits lower on your arm. Try on the seamed body first to see exactly where the armhole falls before crocheting the sleeves.
• Problem: The textured bumps are disappearing on the wrong side.
  Fix: Remember that the front post single crochet (fpsc) pushes the chain-3 loop to the back of your work. Always look behind the stitch to find your chain loop for the next row.

Care Instructions

To keep your handmade pullover looking its best, hand wash it in cool water with a mild wool rinse. Gently squeeze out excess water by rolling it in a clean towel—never wring or twist. Lay the sweater flat to dry on a blocking mat or dry towel to preserve its shape and prevent stretching.

Final Thoughts

There is nothing quite like the feeling of wearing a cozy sweater you made with your own two hands. This pullover is bound to become a staple in your handmade wardrobe, perfect for chilly mornings and relaxed weekends. Don't worry if your first few post stitches feel a bit awkward; once you find your rhythm, this beautiful texture will fly off your hook!