Snowdrift Crochet Cardigan

Joanna Grey

Aug 11, 2026

Learn how to crochet the Snowdrift Cardigan, a beautifully textured cropped sweater featuring minimal shaping, cozy ribbing, and options for both long sleeves or a sleeveless vest style.

Have you ever wanted to wrap yourself in a cloud of cozy, textured stitches without spending months on a complicated garment? I know that feeling all too well.

It is frustrating.

Many garment patterns require intense counting and complex shaping that leaves you feeling more stressed than relaxed.

When I first designed this cropped sweater, my initial attempt at the neck decreases left awkward gaps along the edges. I knew I had to fix it because nobody wants a drafty cardigan, so I went back to the drawing board to create a beautifully solid, gap-free fabric.

The result is this gorgeous design, which features a stunning bumpy texture that looks intricate but is incredibly simple to execute.

Even better, I have included two distinct styling options.

You can make it with cozy long sleeves, or opt for a chic sleeveless vest if you happen to run short on yarn like I did during my second test run! If you prefer a longer silhouette, you can also check out my Rectangle Blanket Cardigan.

Why You'll Love This Pattern

Minimal Shaping: No complex math or stressful construction here, making it a joy to stitch.
Two-in-One Style: Easily customize your project into a classic long-sleeved cardigan or a trendy layering vest.
Stunning Texture: The unique combination of post stitches and decorative projections creates a thick, solid fabric without any unwanted holes.

Materials You'll Need

Yarn: Lion Brand Wool Ease (worsted weight, Category 4, wool/acrylic blend) in Fisherman or Mushroom.
Hook: Size J (6.0 mm) for the main body panels, and size I (5.5 mm) for the ribbed edgings.
Notions: Stitch markers (safety pins or paper clips work great too), tapestry needle, and four wooden buttons (1 to 1.25 inches wide).
Yardage: Approximately 197 yards per skein (exact skein count depends on your chosen size and sleeve option).

Gauge & Sizing

Gauge: Using the J (6.0 mm) hook: 3.5 stitch projections = 4 inches wide; 4 bumpy lines (8 rows) = 4 inches tall. Each row adds exactly 0.5 inches of height.
Sizes included: S (M, L) (XL, 2XL, 3XL)
Finished measurements:
- Bust: 36.5 (40.5, 44.5) (48.5, 52.5, 56.5) inches
- Back Width: 18.25 (20.25, 22.25) (24.25, 26.25, 28.25) inches
- Length: 20 (20, 21) (21, 22, 22) inches (Note: The fabric will stretch downward by about an inch when worn).
- Armhole Depth: 7 (7, 8) (8, 9, 9) inches
- Sleeve Length: 16.5 (16.5, 17) (17, 18, 18) inches including the cuffs.

Abbreviations & Stitch Instructions

sc (single crochet): Insert hook, yarn over, pull up a loop, yarn over, pull through both loops.
dc (double crochet): Yarn over, insert hook, pull up a loop, yarn over, pull through 2 loops, yarn over, pull through remaining 2 loops.
fpdc (front post double crochet): Worked around the post of the stitch below. For a detailed breakdown, see our Crochet Post Stitch Guide.
bpdc (back post double crochet): Worked around the back of the stitch post.
fpsc (front post single crochet): Worked like a standard single crochet, but inserting the hook around the post of the stitch from front to back.
dc2tog (double crochet two together): Yarn over, insert hook, pull up loop, pull through 2 loops. Keep 2 loops on hook. Yarn over, insert hook in next stitch, pull up loop, pull through 2 loops. Yarn over, pull through all 3 remaining loops.
RS: Right Side of the fabric.
WS: Wrong Side of the fabric.

Pattern Notes

Skill Level: Easy.
This pattern is written in US crochet terms.
The item is worked flat in separate panels and then seamed together.
Tension Tip: Keep your post stitches loose and relaxed to prevent the fabric from pulling too tightly or becoming stiff.
Customization Tip: If you prefer a longer cardigan, simply add more repeat rows before starting the neck shaping. Remember that each row adds half an inch to the length.

Step-by-Step Instructions

Right Front Panel

Using your J (6.0 mm) hook, chain 30 (34, 38) (42, 46, 50).

Row 1 (WS): Work a single crochet into the second chain from your hook. Continue working 1 sc into each chain across to the end. Turn. [29 (33, 37) (41, 45, 49) sc]

Row 2 (RS): Ch 3 (this counts as your first dc here and throughout), work 2 dc into the very first stitch. *[Skip the next 3 stitches, then work (1 sc, ch 3, 3 dc) all into the next stitch]. Repeat from * until you have 4 stitches remaining. Skip 3 stitches, work 1 sc into the final stitch. Place a stitch marker on this side to mark the Right Side (RS). Turn. [7 (8, 9) (10, 11, 12) projections]

Row 3: Ch 3, work 2 dc into the first stitch. *[Skip the next 2 dc, work 1 fpsc around the next dc. Chain 3, then work 3 dc into the adjacent chain-3 space located directly behind the fpsc]. Repeat from * across. After completing the 3 dc in your final chain-3 space, skip the next 2 dc, work 1 fpsc around the turning chain-3. Turn. [7 (8, 9) (10, 11, 12) projections]

Your panel should measure roughly 8 (9, 10) (11, 12, 13) inches wide.

Repeat Row 3 until you have completed a total of 20 (20, 22) (22, 24, 24) rows (excluding your initial sc row).

Shaping the Right Panel Neck

Decrease Row 1: Ch 3, work 2 dc in the first stitch. *[Skip 2 dc, work 1 fpsc around the next dc, ch 3, 3 dc in the adjacent ch-3 space]. Repeat from * until you work a fpsc in the second-to-last projection. Chain 3, work 2 dc in the final ch-3 space. Skip the next 2 dc, work 1 fpsc around the turning chain-3. Turn. [7 (8, 9) (10, 11, 12) projections]

Decrease Row 2: Ch 3, work 1 dc in the first stitch. Skip the next dc, work 1 fpsc around the next dc. Without chaining, work 3 dc directly into the adjacent ch-3 space. *[Skip 2 dc, work 1 fpsc around the next dc, ch 3, 3 dc in the adjacent ch-3 space]. Repeat from * across. After the 3 dc in the final ch-3 space, skip 2 dc, work 1 fpsc around the turning chain-3. Turn.

Decrease Row 3: Ch 3, work 2 dc in the first stitch. *[Skip 2 dc, work 1 fpsc around the next dc, ch 3, 3 dc in the adjacent ch-3 space]. Repeat from * across until you have completed the 3 dc in the last ch-3 space. Skip the next 2 dc, insert hook around the post of the next dc and pull up a loop (as if starting a fpsc). Skip the next 2 dc, insert hook around the post of the turning chain-3 and pull up another loop. Yarn over and pull through all 3 loops on your hook. Turn. [6 (7, 8) (9, 10, 11) projections]

Decrease Row 4: Ch 3, work 1 dc in the first stitch. Skip 2 dc, work 1 fpsc around the next dc. Without chaining, work 3 dc directly into the adjacent ch-3 space. *[Skip 2 dc, work 1 fpsc around the next dc, ch 3, 3 dc in the adjacent ch-3 space]. Repeat from * across. After the 3 dc in the final ch-3 space, skip 2 dc, work 1 fpsc around the turning chain-3. Turn.

Decrease Row 5: Repeat Decrease Row 3. [5 (6, 7) (8, 9, 10) projections]

Decrease Row 6: Repeat Decrease Row 4.

Decrease Row 7: Repeat Decrease Row 3. [4 (5, 6) (7, 8, 9) projections]

For Sizes 2XL and 3XL Only: Repeat Decrease Rows 4 and 3 once more. You will have 7 projections for size 2XL and 8 projections for size 3XL.

Even Row (All Sizes): Ch 3, work 2 dc in the first stitch. *[Skip 2 dc, work 1 fpsc around the next dc, ch 3, 3 dc in the adjacent ch-3 space]. Repeat from * across. After the 3 dc in the final ch-3 space, skip 2 dc, work 1 fpsc around the turning chain-3. Turn. [4 (5, 6) (7, 7, 8) projections]

Repeat this Even Row until your panel measures 17 (17, 18) (18, 19, 19) inches from the starting edge.

Leveling Row: Ch 2, *[work 1 hdc in each of the next 3 dc, skip the ch-3 loop, work 1 dc in the next sc]. Repeat from * until you work a dc in the final sc. Work 1 hdc in each of the next 2 dc, then work 1 hdc on top of the turning chain-3. Fasten off.

Left Front Panel

Using your J (6.0 mm) hook, chain 30 (34, 38) (42, 46, 50).

Row 1 (WS): Work 1 sc into the second chain from your hook and in each chain across. Turn. [29 (33, 37) (41, 45, 49) sc]

Row 2 (RS): Ch 3, work 2 dc in the first stitch. *[Skip 3 stitches, work (1 sc, ch 3, 3 dc) in the next stitch]. Repeat from * until 4 stitches remain. Skip 3 stitches, work 1 sc in the last stitch. Place a marker on the RS. Turn. [7 (8, 9) (10, 11, 12) projections]

Row 3: Ch 3, work 2 dc in the first stitch. *[Skip 2 dc, work 1 fpsc around the next dc, ch 3, 3 dc in the adjacent ch-3 space]. Repeat from * across. After the 3 dc in the final ch-3 space, skip 2 dc, work 1 fpsc around the turning chain-3. Turn. [7 (8, 9) (10, 11, 12) projections]

Repeat Row 3 until you have completed 20 (20, 22) (22, 24, 24) rows (excluding the sc row).

Shaping the Left Panel Neck

Decrease Row 1: Ch 3, work 1 dc in the first stitch. *[Skip 2 dc, work 1 fpsc around the next dc, ch 3, 3 dc in the adjacent ch-3 space]. Repeat from * across. After the 3 dc in the final ch-3 space, skip 2 dc, work 1 fpsc around the turning chain-3. Turn. [7 (8, 9) (10, 11, 12) projections]

Decrease Row 2: Ch 3, work 2 dc in the first stitch. *[Skip 2 dc, work 1 fpsc around the next dc, ch 3, 3 dc in the adjacent ch-3 space]. Repeat from * until you work a fpsc in the second-to-last projection. Without chaining, work 3 dc directly into the last ch-3 space. Skip 2 dc, work 1 fpsc around the turning chain-3. Turn.

Decrease Row 3: Ch 3, work 1 dc in the first stitch. Skip 2 dc, insert hook around the post of the next dc and pull up a loop. Skip 2 dc, insert hook around the post of the next dc and pull up another loop. Yarn over and pull through all 3 loops on hook. Chain 3, work 3 dc in the adjacent ch-3 space. *[Skip 2 dc, work 1 fpsc around the next dc, ch 3, 3 dc in the adjacent ch-3 space]. Repeat from * across. After the 3 dc in the final ch-3 space, skip 2 dc, work 1 fpsc around the turning chain-3. Turn. [6 (7, 8) (9, 10, 11) projections]

Decrease Row 4: Repeat Decrease Row 2 of the Left Panel.

Decrease Row 5: Repeat Decrease Row 3. [5 (6, 7) (8, 9, 10) projections]

Decrease Row 6: Repeat Decrease Row 4.

Decrease Row 7: Repeat Decrease Row 3. [4 (5, 6) (7, 8, 9) projections]

For Sizes 2XL and 3XL Only: Repeat Decrease Rows 2 and 3 once more. You will have 7 projections for size 2XL and 8 projections for size 3XL.

Repeat this Even Row until your panel measures 17 (17, 18) (18, 19, 19) inches from the starting edge.

Back Panel

Using your J (6.0 mm) hook, chain 66 (74, 82) (90, 98, 106).

Row 1 (WS): Work 1 sc into the second chain from your hook and in each chain across. Turn. [65 (73, 81) (89, 97, 105) sc]

Repeat Row 3 until your back panel measures 17 (17, 18) (18, 19, 19) inches from the starting edge.

Assembling the Panels

Lay your back panel down flat with the Right Side (RS) facing up.

Place both front panels on top of the back panel with the Right Sides touching (Wrong Sides facing out).

Using a tapestry needle and a whip stitch, seam the shoulders together.

Next, seam the sides from the bottom up, leaving an armhole opening of 7 (7, 8) (8, 9, 9) inches at the top.

Bottom Ribbing

Switch to your smaller I (5.5 mm) hook.

With the cardigan turned Right Side out, join your yarn with a slip stitch to the bottom left corner.

Row 1: Ch 2 (counts as a dc). *[Work 1 fpdc around the post of the next sc from your foundation row, then work 1 bpdc around the post of the next sc]. Repeat from * across to the side seam. Work 1 dc directly into the side seam. Continue the fpdc/bpdc sequence across the back panel to the next seam, work 1 dc in the seam, and continue the sequence across the remaining front panel. Work 1 dc in the final corner. Turn.

Row 2: Ch 2. Work 1 fpdc in each fpdc and 1 bpdc in each bpdc across. Work 1 dc on top of the turning chain. Turn.

Repeat Row 2 until your bottom ribbing measures 2.5 inches. Fasten off.

Collar & Button Band

Using your smaller I (5.5 mm) hook and working on the RS, join your yarn with a slip stitch to the bottom left corner of the front opening.

Row 1: Ch 2 (counts as a hdc). Distribute hdc stitches evenly all the way around the front opening (up the left front, around the neck, and down the right front). Turn. (Tip: To avoid leaving holes, catch an extra loop under the chain edges rather than working into the very edge).

Row 2: Ch 2. *[Work 1 fpdc in the next stitch, then 1 bpdc in the next stitch]. Repeat from * across. Work 1 dc on top of the turning chain. Turn.

Place markers for 4 buttonholes on the left side of the opening. Place the bottom-most marker at the 4th stitch from the bottom. Place the top marker level with the 19th (19th, 21st) (21st, 23rd, 23rd) repeat row from the bottom. Space the remaining two markers evenly in between.

Row 3 (Buttonhole Row): Ch 2. Work fpdc in fpdc and bpdc in bpdc across. When you reach a marked stitch, chain 1, skip the marked stitch, and continue your ribbing sequence. Repeat this for all 4 buttonholes. Work 1 dc on top of the turning chain. Turn.

Row 4: Ch 2. Work fpdc in fpdc and bpdc in bpdc. When you reach a chain-1 space, work 1 dc directly into that space, then continue the ribbing sequence. Work 1 dc on top of the turning chain. Turn.

Row 5: Ch 2. Work fpdc in fpdc and bpdc in bpdc across. Work 1 dc on top of the turning chain. Fasten off.

Sleeve Ribbing (Vest Version Only)

If you are making the sleeveless vest version, use your smaller I (5.5 mm) hook.

Join your yarn with a slip stitch to the underarm seam.

Round 1: Ch 2 (counts as a hdc). Distribute hdc stitches evenly all the way around the armhole opening. Join with a slip stitch to the top of the starting ch-2. Do not turn.

Round 2: Ch 2. *[Work 1 fpdc around the next hdc, then 1 bpdc around the next hdc]. Repeat from * around. Join with a slip stitch to the starting ch-2. Do not turn.

Round 3: Ch 2. Work 1 fpdc in each fpdc and 1 bpdc in each bpdc around. Join with a slip stitch. Fasten off.

Weave in your ends and sew your buttons to the right side of the collar band, aligning them with the buttonholes.

Sleeves (Cardigan Version Only)

Using your larger J (6.0 mm) hook, chain 46 (46, 54) (54, 62, 62).

Row 1 (WS): Work 1 sc into the second chain from your hook and in each chain across. Turn. [45 (45, 53) (53, 61, 61) sc]

Repeat Row 3 until your sleeve measures 14 (14, 14.5) (14.5, 15, 15) inches.

Leveling & Decrease Row: (Note: We will skip the ch-3 loops entirely and work only into the dc and sc stitches to prepare the sleeve for the cuff).

Sizes S and M: Ch 2 (counts as a stitch). *[Work dc2tog across the next 2 stitches, then work 1 dc in each of the next 4 stitches]. Repeat from * once more. *[Work dc2tog across the next 2 stitches, then work 1 dc in each of the next 3 stitches]. Repeat from * 3 more times. *[Work dc2tog across the next 2 stitches, then work 1 dc in each of the next 4 stitches]. Repeat from * once more. Turn. [37 sts]
Sizes L and XL: Ch 2 (counts as a stitch). *[Work dc2tog across the next 2 stitches, then work 1 dc in each of the next 3 stitches]. Repeat from * once more. *[Work dc2tog across the next 2 stitches, then work 1 dc in each of the next 2 stitches]. Repeat from * 7 more times. *[Work dc2tog across the next 2 stitches, then work 1 dc in each of the next 3 stitches]. Repeat from * once more. Turn. [41 sts]
Sizes 2XL and 3XL: Ch 2 (counts as a stitch). *[Work dc2tog across the next 2 stitches, then work 1 dc in each of the next 3 stitches]. Repeat from * once more. *[Work dc2tog across the next 2 stitches, work 1 dc in the next stitch, work dc2tog across the next 2 stitches, work 1 dc in each of the next 2 stitches]. Repeat from * 5 more times. *[Work dc2tog across the next 2 stitches, work 1 dc in each of the next 2 stitches]. Repeat from * once more. Turn. [45 sts]

Sleeve Cuff Ribbing (All Sizes): Switch to your smaller I (5.5 mm) hook. (Note: Treat each dc2tog as a single stitch, inserting your hook under the combined post).

Row 1: Ch 2 (counts as a stitch). *[Work 1 fpdc around the next stitch, then 1 bpdc around the next stitch]. Repeat from * across. Work 1 dc on top of the turning chain. Turn. [37 (37, 41) (41, 45, 45) sts]

Row 2: Ch 2. Work 1 bpdc in each bpdc and 1 fpdc in each fpdc across. Work 1 dc on top of the turning chain. Turn.

Repeat Row 2 until your cuff ribbing measures 2 inches (for sizes up to L) or 2.5 inches (for larger sizes).

Sleeve Assembly: Fold the sleeve in half lengthwise with the Wrong Side facing out. Whip stitch the underarm seam closed.

Attaching Sleeves: Keep the cardigan Wrong Side out, but turn your sleeve Right Side out. Insert the sleeve through the armhole opening. Align the underarm seams and edges. Whip stitch the sleeve to the armhole, grabbing about 1/4 inch of fabric from both pieces to ensure a strong, secure seam that won't pull apart under the weight of the sleeve.

Sew your buttons to the right side of the front band to match the buttonholes. Weave in all remaining yarn tails. (For help with hiding your yarn ends securely, check out our guide on Weaving Crochet Tails).

Easy Variations & Custom Ideas

The Sleeveless Vest: If you want a lighter layering piece or run out of yarn, simply skip the sleeves entirely and follow the sleeve ribbing instructions for a gorgeous vest. You can read more about this style in our Easy Crochet Vest Free Pattern.
Adjusting the Length: To turn this cropped design into a full-length cardigan, simply add more repeats of Row 3 to your front and back panels before starting the neck decreases.
Yarn Weight Swaps: While worsted weight wool blend is ideal, you can easily substitute a soft acrylic or cotton blend of the same weight to make a lighter, transitional piece.
Colour Blocking: Create a modern look by using one solid color for the main body panels and a contrasting neutral shade for the bottom ribbing, cuffs, and button band.
Button Alternatives: Swap out the rustic wooden buttons for vintage metal buttons or even large coconut shell buttons to completely change the aesthetic of your finished sweater.
Colour ideas: Classic cream (Fisherman), earthy taupe (Mushroom), deep forest green, or a soft heathered grey.
Yarn substitutions: Lion Brand Heartland, Red Heart Soft, or any worsted weight wool blend that matches gauge.

Common Troubleshooting & Fixes

Problem: My neck edge has large, unsightly gaps after working the decreases.
Fix: Make sure you are skipping the chain-3 spaces entirely on decrease rows where instructed, and pull your loops tight when working the post stitch decreases.
Problem: The cardigan feels too stiff and doesn't drape nicely.
Fix: Your tension might be too tight. Try switching to a larger hook (like a 6.5mm) for the main body panels, and ensure you are keeping your post stitches relaxed.
Problem: My sleeves look incredibly bulky and bunch up at the armholes.
Fix: The sleeves are designed to be slightly smaller than the armhole opening and stretched slightly during seaming. Make sure you are aligning the edges evenly and stretching the sleeve fabric gently as you whip stitch.
Problem: The bottom ribbing is flaring out instead of hugging my waist.
Fix: Ensure you switched to the smaller I (5.5 mm) hook for the ribbing. If it still flares, work a few decreases (dc2tog) evenly across the first row of the ribbing.

Care Instructions

Because this cardigan is made with a wool blend yarn, I highly recommend hand washing your finished garment in cool water with a gentle wool wash. Lay it flat on a clean towel to dry, shaping it gently to its finished measurements. Avoid hanging your cardigan to dry, as the weight of the wet fabric will stretch out the shoulders.

Final Thoughts

There is nothing quite like the feeling of wearing a cozy sweater that you stitched with your own two hands. I hope you enjoy making this Snowdrift Cardigan as much as I did! Don't forget to share your progress and let me know in the comments if you decided to go with the cozy long sleeves or the stylish sleeveless vest. Happy stitching, my friends!

The Author

I'm Joanna T. Grey. I've been designing crochet patterns for over a decade, and I focus on modern, wearable pieces with clear, tested instructions. Every pattern here is written so you actually understand the why behind each step—not just what to do. Even if you're new or experienced, you'll find practical guidance and designs that work.