Ivy Long Cardigan

Wrap yourself in handmade comfort with this gorgeous, beginner-friendly duster that features a unique textured stitch, cozy pockets, and a beautifully draped silhouette.

Have you ever wanted to make your own cozy sweater but felt completely intimidated by complex garment construction? I completely understand because I used to feel the exact same way when I first started out.

Many sweater patterns require endless shaping, confusing decreases, and pieces that never seem to line up quite right during assembly. It is incredibly frustrating to spend hours on a project only to end up with sleeves that do not fit. We have all been there, and it is no fun at all.

That is why I designed this simple, stress-free garment. We will build the entire body in one flat piece, which means you do not have to worry about matching separate front and back panels. It is a game-changer for garment beginners.

Originally, I planned this as a standard mid-thigh sweater, but the lovely textured stitch had other ideas. It stretched beautifully into a dramatic, knee-length duster that feels like a warm hug. The drape is absolutely magical.

Because I want everyone to enjoy this design, I have written instructions for both a classic regular length and a longer duster style. If you love long, flowing layers, you might also want to check out the Crochet Duster Cardigan, The Foggy Day Cardigan for another cozy option to add to your handmade wardrobe.

Grab your favorite worsted weight yarn, find a comfortable spot, and let us walk through this step-by-step journey together.

Why You'll Love This Pattern

• Beginner-Friendly Construction: The main body is worked flat in a single piece, eliminating complex shoulder seams.
• Two Length Options: Choose between a classic thigh-length style or a dramatic knee-length duster.
• Functional Pockets: Deep, cozy pockets are added at the end to keep your hands warm and hold your essentials.

Materials You'll Need

• Yarn: Big Twist Soft (Worsted weight, size 4, 100% acrylic, 320 yards per skein) in the colorway Rose.
• Hook: Size K (6.5mm) for the main body and size H (5mm) for the ribbed edges.
• Notions: Tapestry needle, scissors, and several stitch markers.
• Yardage: Approximately 5 (5.5, 6) (6.5, 7, 7.5) skeins for the long version. The shorter version requires about half a skein less.

Gauge & Sizing

• Gauge: 6 stitch repeats and 11 rows = 4.25 inches using the larger K (6.5mm) hook. One repeat consists of one SHD and one chain stitch.
• Sizes included: Small, Medium, Large, XL, 2XL, and 3XL.
• Finished measurements:
  • Bust sizes: 34 (38, 42) (46, 50, 54) inches.
  • Back panel width: 20.5 (22.5, 24) (26, 28, 29.5) inches.
  • Armhole depth: 7 (7, 8) (8, 9, 9) inches.
  • Sleeve length: 17 inches for all sizes.
  • Regular length (when worn): 29.5 (29.5, 30.5) (31.5, 31.5, 31.5) inches.
  • Long length (when worn): 36 (36, 36) (37, 37, 37) inches.

Abbreviations & Stitch Instructions

• ch: Chain
• sc: Single crochet
• sl st: Slip stitch
• st(s): Stitch / stitches
• yo: Yarn over
• RS: Right side of the fabric
• WS: Wrong side of the fabric
• BLO (Back Loop Only): Insert your hook only under the rear loop of the stitch.
• SHD (Single Half Double Decrease): Insert hook in next stitch, pull up a loop. Yarn over, insert hook in following stitch, pull up a loop. Yarn over, pull through all four loops on your hook.
• US to UK Terms: If you are more familiar with British terminology, you can refer to our US to UK Crochet Conversion Chart to translate these terms.

Pattern Notes

• Skill Level: Easy / Advanced Beginner.
• This pattern is written in US crochet terms.
• The item is worked flat in panels and seamed together.
• Tension Tip: The fabric will stretch significantly (about 4 to 6 inches in length) when worn. Keep your tension relaxed but consistent so the drape remains fluid.
• Customization Tip: You can easily adjust the length of the sleeves or the body by adding or subtracting rows before starting the ribbing sections.

Step-by-Step Instructions

Working the Back Panel

We begin at the bottom hem of the back and work upward. Using your K (6.5mm) hook, chain 59 (65, 69) (75, 81, 83).

Row 1: Work an SHD across the 3rd and 4th chains from your hook. *Chain 1, then work an SHD over the next 2 chains. Repeat from * all the way across to the final chain. Chain 1, work 1 sc in the last chain, turn. [28 (31, 33) (36, 39, 40) repeats]

Row 2: Chain 2 (this does not count as a stitch here or throughout). Work an SHD over the first sc and the next ch-1 space. *Chain 1, work an SHD over the next SHD and the next ch-1 space. Repeat from * across to the last SHD. Chain 1, skip the last SHD, work 1 sc in the top of the turning chain, turn. [28 (31, 33) (36, 39, 40) repeats]

Row 3: Chain 2, work an SHD over the first sc and the next ch-1 space. *Chain 1, work an SHD over the next SHD and the next ch-1 space. Repeat from * across to the last SHD. Chain 1, skip the last SHD, work 1 sc in the top of the starting chain, turn. [28 (31, 33) (36, 39, 40) repeats]

Repeat Row 3 until you reach your desired length. For the regular version, complete 57 (57, 59) (61, 61, 61) rows. For the long duster version, complete 70 (70, 70) (72, 72, 72) rows. Do not cut your yarn.

Creating the First Front Panel

We will now grow the front panel directly from the top of the back panel.

Row 1: Chain 2, work an SHD over the first sc and the next ch-1 space. *Chain 1, work an SHD over the next SHD and the next ch-1 space. Repeat from * until you have completed 12 (13, 14) (16, 17, 18) SHD. Chain 1, work 1 sc into the space immediately following the last SHD, turn. [12 (13, 14) (16, 17, 18) SHD]

Tip: Place a stitch marker on this row to help you keep track of your front panel row count.

Row 2: Chain 2, work an SHD over the first sc and the next ch-1 space. *Chain 1, work an SHD over the next SHD and the next ch-1 space. Repeat from * across to the last SHD. Chain 1, skip the last SHD, work 1 sc in the top of the starting chain, turn. [12 (13, 14) (16, 17, 18) SHD]

Repeat Row 2 until this front panel matches the length of your back panel when folded over. Fasten off.

Creating the Second Front Panel

Now we will attach yarn to the opposite side of the neck opening.

Skip 7 (9, 9) (7, 9, 7) stitches and chains along the top edge from where the first front panel ended. Slip stitch into the next stitch, chain 1.

Row 1: Work an SHD across the first stitch and the next ch-1 space. *Chain 1, work an SHD over the next SHD and the next ch-1 space. Repeat from * across to the last SHD. Chain 1, skip the last SHD, work 1 sc in the top of the starting chain, turn. [12 (13, 14) (16, 17, 18) SHD]

Row 2: Chain 2, work an SHD over the first sc and the next ch-1 space. *Chain 1, work an SHD over the next SHD and the next ch-1 space. Repeat from * across to the last SHD. Chain 1, skip the last SHD, work 1 sc in the top of the starting chain, turn. [12 (13, 14) (16, 17, 18) SHD]

Repeat Row 2 until this second panel has the exact same number of rows as your first front panel. Fasten off.

Crocheting the Sleeves (Make 2)

The sleeves are worked flat from the shoulder down to the wrist.

Using your K (6.5mm) hook, chain 43 (43, 49) (49, 55, 55).

Row 1: Work an SHD across the 3rd and 4th chains from your hook. *Chain 1, work an SHD over the next 2 chains. Repeat from * across to the last chain. Chain 1, work 1 sc in the last chain, turn. [20 (20, 23) (23, 26, 26) SHD]

Row 2 (Decrease Row): Chain 2, work an SHD over the first sc and the next ch-1 space. Do not chain 1. Work an SHD over the next SHD and the next ch-1 space. Do not chain 1. Work an SHD over the next SHD and the next ch-1 space. *Chain 1, work an SHD over the next SHD and the next ch-1 space. Repeat from * until you have completed 18 (18, 21) (21, 24, 24) SHD in total. Do not chain 1. Work an SHD over the next SHD and the next ch-1 space. Do not chain 1. Work an SHD over the next SHD and the next ch-1 space. Skip the last SHD, work 1 sc in the top of the turning chain, turn. [20 (20, 23) (23, 26, 26) SHD]

Row 3 (Decrease Row): Chain 2, work an SHD over the first sc and the next ch-1 space. Chain 1, work an SHD across the next 2 stitches. *Chain 1, work an SHD over the next SHD and the next ch-1 space. Repeat from * until you have completed 17 (17, 20) (20, 23, 23) SHD. Chain 1, work an SHD in the next 2 stitches. Chain 1, work 1 sc in the top of the starting chain, turn. [18 (18, 21) (21, 24, 24) SHD]

Row 4: Chain 2, work an SHD over the first sc and the next ch-1 space. *Chain 1, work an SHD over the next SHD and the next ch-1 space. Repeat from * across to the last SHD. Chain 1, skip the last SHD, work 1 sc in the top of the starting chain, turn. [18 (18, 21) (21, 24, 24) SHD]

Repeat Row 4 until your sleeve measures 5.5 (5.5, 6.5) (6.5, 7, 7) inches. Repeat Rows 2 and 3 once to decrease down to 16 (16, 19) (19, 22, 22) SHD.

Continue repeating Row 4 until the sleeve measures approximately 13.5 inches.

Next Row (Prep for Ribbing): Chain 1, work 1 sc in the first sc, then work 1 sc in each stitch and ch-1 space across to the last SHD. Skip the last SHD, work 1 sc in the top of the starting chain. Do not fasten off. [33 (33, 39) (39, 45, 45) sc]

Adding the Sleeve Ribbing

Switch to your smaller H (5mm) hook and continue with the same yarn.

Row 1: Chain 11. Work 1 sc in the 2nd chain from your hook and in each of the next 9 chains. Slip stitch into the same stitch where you started the chain. Slip stitch into the next empty stitch along the sleeve edge, turn.

Row 2: Skip the 2 slip stitches. Work 1 sc in the BLO of the next 9 stitches. Work 1 sc through both loops of the final stitch, chain 1, turn.

Row 3: Work 1 sc in the BLO of the first stitch and the next 9 stitches. Slip stitch into the next empty stitch along the sleeve edge, chain 1, turn.

Repeat Rows 2 and 3 all the way across the sleeve cuff. Fasten off.

Assembly & Seaming

Lay your main body flat with the wrong side facing up. Place the sleeves on either side of the shoulders, also wrong side up.

Align the center of each sleeve with the shoulder fold line. Use stitch markers to hold them in place.

Using a tapestry needle and a whip stitch, sew the sleeves to the body. Be sure to catch about a quarter-inch of fabric rather than just the very edge. This ensures the seam can support the weight of the sleeve.

Fold the cardigan so the front panels lay directly over the back panel with right sides touching. Sew from the wrist cuff down to the underarm, and then down the side seams to the bottom hem.

Preparing for the Bottom Ribbing

We will work a base row of single crochet along the bottom edge before attaching the ribbing.

With the right side of the cardigan facing you, use your H (5mm) hook to join yarn at the bottom front corner.

Work 1 sc into each stitch and chain across the front panel edge. Work 1 sc directly into the side seam. Along the back panel, work 2 sc under each SHD stitch. Work 1 sc in the next side seam, and 1 sc in each stitch and chain across the second front panel. Fasten off.

Bottom Ribbing Pattern

Using your H (5mm) hook, chain 9.

Row 1: Work 1 sc in the 2nd chain from your hook and in each chain across, turn. [8 sc]

Row 2: Chain 1, work 1 sc in the BLO of the first 7 stitches. Work 1 sc through both loops of the last stitch, turn. [8 sc]

Repeat Row 2 until the ribbing strip is almost as long as the bottom hem of your cardigan. Do not cut the yarn.

Tip: Whip stitch the ribbing to the hem, stretching it slightly as you sew. Start sewing from the beginning of the ribbing strip so you can easily add or remove rows at the end to make it fit perfectly.

Preparing for the Collar Ribbing

With the right side facing you, use your H (5mm) hook to slip stitch to the bottom left corner of the front opening.

Work 1 sc into each stitch of the bottom ribbing. Continue working sc evenly up the left front edge. When you reach the back of the neck, insert your hook about a quarter-inch below the edge to prevent holes. Work sc down the right front edge to the bottom hem. Fasten off.

Collar Ribbing Pattern

Using your H (5mm) hook, chain 8.

Row 1: Work 1 sc in the 2nd chain from your hook and in each chain across, turn. [7 sc]

Row 2: Chain 1, work 1 sc in the BLO of the first 6 stitches. Work 1 sc through both loops of the last stitch, turn. [7 sc]

Repeat Row 2 until the collar strip is long enough to fit the entire front opening. Do not cut the yarn.

Whip stitch the collar to the front opening without stretching it. Adjust the row count at the end if needed, then fasten off.

Crocheting the Pockets (Make 2)

Using your K (6.5mm) hook, chain 19 (19, 19) (21, 21, 21).

Row 1: Work an SHD across the 3rd and 4th chains from your hook. *Chain 1, work an SHD over the next 2 chains. Repeat from * across to the last chain. Chain 1, work 1 sc in the last chain, turn. [8 (8, 8) (9, 9, 9) repeats]

Row 2: Chain 2, work an SHD over the first sc and the next ch-1 space. *Chain 1, work an SHD over the next SHD and the next ch-1 space. Repeat from * across to the last SHD. Chain 1, skip the last SHD, work 1 sc in the top of the turning chain, turn. [8 (8, 8) (9, 9, 9) repeats]

Row 3: Chain 2, work an SHD over the first sc and the next ch-1 space. *Chain 1, work an SHD over the next SHD and the next ch-1 space. Repeat from * across to the last SHD. Chain 1, skip the last SHD, work 1 sc in the top of the starting chain, turn. [8 (8, 8) (9, 9, 9) repeats]

Repeat Row 3 until you have completed 13 (13, 13) (15, 15, 15) rows.

Pocket Border: Chain 1 at the corner. Work sc stitches evenly down the left side, chain 1 at the corner, work sc stitches across the bottom, chain 1 at the corner, work sc stitches up the right side, chain 1 at the corner, and work 1 sc in each stitch and chain across the top. Do not fasten off.

Now, we will add extra rows only to the top of the pocket:

Row 1: Chain 1 at the corner and turn. Work 1 sc in each stitch across the top edge, turn.

Row 2: Chain 1 (counts as a stitch). Work 1 sc in each stitch across, ending with a stitch in the top of the starting chain, turn.

Repeat Row 2 three more times. Fasten off, leaving a 2-yard tail for sewing.

Attaching the Pockets

For the regular-length cardigan, position the pockets directly above the bottom ribbing, centered on each front panel.

For the long duster version, align the bottom of the pockets about 25 to 26 inches down from the shoulder line, centered on the front panels.

Pin them in place. Use the long yarn tail and a backstitch just inside the outer edge of the pocket stitches to sew them on securely. This leaves the outer loops free for a clean, professional finish.

Easy Variations & Custom Ideas

• Striped Style: Change colors every few rows to create a beautiful striped pattern. If you want to try this, check out our guide on How to Change Colors Every Row Without Fastening off in Crochet to keep your ends to a minimum.
• Shorter Cardigan: If you prefer a cropped look, you can easily adapt this into a shorter style. For a similar vibe, take a look at our Crochet One Piece Cardigan Pattern, Sloane Cardigan.
• Stitch Swaps: You can replace the main stitch pattern with a simpler texture. Try using the Crochet Crunch Stitch, An Easier Version for a dense, cozy fabric.
• Button Closure: Add a few wooden buttons along the collar ribbing. You can use the spaces between the ribbing stitches as natural buttonholes.
• Contrasting Ribbing: Use a neutral cream or charcoal grey for the cuffs, collar, and pocket borders to make the rose pink body pop.
• Colour ideas: Soft pastels like lavender, sage green, or dusty blue look stunning. Rich jewel tones like mustard, burgundy, or forest green are perfect for autumn.
• Yarn substitutions: Any soft, worsted weight acrylic or wool blend will work beautifully. Caron Simply Soft or Lion Brand Heartland are excellent alternatives.

Common Troubleshooting & Fixes

• Problem: My cardigan is turning out much longer than expected.
  Fix: The textured stitch stretches quite a bit under its own weight. If you tend to crochet loosely, try going down a hook size or working fewer rows for the body.
• Problem: The sleeves feel too tight around my arms.
  Fix: Make sure you are not accidentally decreasing on the non-decrease rows. You can also add a few extra chains to your starting chain, ensuring your total count is an odd number.
• Problem: My bottom ribbing is puckering or flaring out.
  Fix: If it puckers, you are stretching the ribbing too much while sewing. If it flares, you are not stretching it enough. Try pinning it at regular intervals before whip stitching.
• Problem: There are large holes along the back of the neck collar.
  Fix: When working the prep row of single crochet, insert your hook a quarter-inch deep into the fabric rather than just under the edge loops.

Care Instructions

To keep your handmade cardigan looking its best, machine wash it on a gentle cycle in cold water using a mild detergent. Lay it flat on a clean towel to dry. Avoid hanging the wet cardigan, as the weight of the water will stretch the shoulders out of shape.

Final Thoughts

There is nothing quite like the feeling of wearing a garment you made with your own two hands. This cardigan is the perfect weekend project to build your confidence in sweater making. Take your time, enjoy the rhythmic stitches, and don't forget to share your beautiful finished dusters with me!