Foggy Day Duster Cardigan

Wrap yourself in pure comfort with this gorgeous, textured crochet duster cardigan pattern, featuring a relaxed fit, cozy pockets, and a beautiful draped silhouette.

Have you ever wanted to wear a blanket out of the house without looking like you just rolled out of bed? I certainly have, especially on those chilly, overcast mornings when the couch is calling my name.

We have all been there.

Finding a store-bought sweater that is both incredibly cozy and stylishly long is nearly impossible. They are either too thin, too scratchy, or they lose their shape after a single wash.

That is exactly why I designed this long, textured sweater to solve all your cold-weather wardrobe dilemmas. It combines the luxurious length of a duster with the squishy warmth of super bulky yarn, giving you an effortless layering piece that looks amazing over jeans, leggings, or even your favorite pajamas.

If you loved making my Ivy Long Cardigan, you are going to adore this project.

This design uses simple, rhythmic stitch patterns to create a stunning ribbed texture that looks far more complicated than it actually is. It works up incredibly fast, meaning you can go from skein to finished garment in just a few cozy evenings.

Why You'll Love This Pattern

• Super Bulky Warmth: Made with size 6 yarn, this cardigan acts as a cozy shield against chilly drafts.
• Simple Construction: The body is built from basic rectangular panels, making it incredibly beginner-friendly.
• Practical Pockets: Deep, functional pockets are sewn right onto the front to keep your hands warm and hold your phone.

Materials You'll Need

• Yarn: Bernat Softee Chunky (Size 6 Super Bulky; 100% acrylic; 108 yds / 99 m per 100g skein) in Grey Heather.
• Hook: Size L (8.0 mm) for the main body panels, and Size I (5.5 mm) for the ribbing.
• Notions: Tapestry needle for weaving in ends, locking stitch markers (or safety pins), and scissors.
• Yardage: Approximately 7 to 11 skeins depending on your size (always buy one extra skein to be safe!).

Gauge & Sizing

• Gauge: 10 stitches x 7 rows = 4 inches (10 cm) in the main pattern stitch using the 8.0 mm hook.
• Sizes included: S, M, L, XL, 2XL, 3XL (written as (S, M) (L, XL) (2XL, 3XL)).
• Finished measurements:
  • Chest/Bust Width: (19.75, 21) (22.5, 24.5) (26.5, 28) inches
  • Finished Length: (33.5, 33.5) (35, 35) (36, 36) inches (measured from back neck to hem)
  • Armhole Depth: (7, 7) (8, 8) (9, 9) inches
  • Sleeve Length: (17, 17) (18, 18) (18.5, 18.5) inches (including cuff)

Abbreviations & Stitch Instructions

• ch: Chain
• sc: Single crochet
• hdc: Half double crochet
• sl st: Slip stitch
• BLO (Back Loop Only): Insert your hook only into the loop furthest away from you.
• hdc2tog (Half Double Crochet Two Together): (Yarn over, pull up a loop in the next stitch) twice, yarn over and pull through all 5 loops on your hook to complete the decrease.
• RS: Right Side (the side showing the braided texture).
• WS: Wrong Side (the inside of the cardigan).

Pattern Notes

• Skill Level: Easy / Advanced Beginner.
• This pattern is written in US crochet terms. If you are used to British terminology, check out our handy US to UK Crochet Chart.
• The item is worked flat in rectangular panels, then seamed together before working the sleeves and ribbing directly onto the body.
• Tension Tip: Keep your foundation chains loose! If your initial chain is too tight, the bottom hem of your cardigan will pull inward and warp the shape.
• Customization Tip: You can easily adjust the length of this duster. The starting chain determines the length, so simply chain any even number to reach your desired height.

Step-by-Step Instructions

The Pocket Swatch (Make 2)

We will make the pockets first and use them to check our gauge.

With the 8.0 mm hook, loosely chain 16.

Row 1: Working into the back bumps of the chain, sc in the second chain from your hook and in each chain across, turn. (15 sc)

Row 2: Ch 1 (does not count as a stitch here and throughout), hdc in the BLO of the first stitch, sl st in the BLO of the next stitch, *hdc in the BLO of the next stitch, sl st in the BLO of the next stitch; repeat from * to the final stitch, hdc through both loops of the last stitch, turn. (15 sts)

Row 3: Ch 1, hdc in the BLO of the first stitch and in each stitch across to the final stitch, hdc through both loops of the last stitch, turn. (15 sts)

Rows 4-11: Repeat Rows 2 and 3 four more times.

Edging: Ch 1 at the corner, rotate your work, and evenly distribute sc stitches along the upper edge. Work into the body of the stitches rather than large gaps to avoid creating holes. Fasten off, leaving a 1.5-yard tail for sewing. Make a second pocket exactly the same way.

Small and Medium Sizes

Back Panel

Using the 8.0 mm hook, loosely chain 70.

Row 1: Working into the back bumps of your chain, sc in the second chain from the hook and in each chain across, turn. (69 sc)

Row 2: Ch 1, hdc in the BLO of the first stitch, sl st in the BLO of the next stitch, *hdc in the BLO of the next stitch, sl st in the BLO of the next stitch; repeat from * to the final stitch, hdc through both loops of the last stitch, turn. (69 sts)

Row 3: Ch 1, hdc in the BLO of the first stitch and in each stitch across to the final stitch, hdc through both loops of the last stitch, turn. (69 sts)

Repeat Rows 2 and 3 until you have completed 39 rows for Small or 41 rows for Medium (including the initial sc row). You should finish on a Row 3 repeat. The back panel should measure about 29 inches long.

Front Panels (Make 2)

Using the 8.0 mm hook, loosely chain 70.

Row 1: Working into the back bumps of your chain, sc in the second chain from the hook and in each chain across, turn. (69 sc)

Row 2: Ch 1, hdc in the BLO of the first stitch, sl st in the BLO of the next stitch, *hdc in the BLO of the next stitch, sl st in the BLO of the next stitch; repeat from * to the final stitch, hdc through both loops of the last stitch, turn. (69 sts)

Row 3: Ch 1, hdc in the BLO of the first stitch and in each stitch across to the final stitch, hdc through both loops of the last stitch, turn. (69 sts)

Repeat Rows 2 and 3 until you have completed 17 rows for Small or 19 rows for Medium (including the initial sc row). Fasten off.

Large and XL Sizes

Back Panel

Using the 8.0 mm hook, loosely chain 74.

Row 1: Working into the back bumps of your chain, sc in the second chain from the hook and in each chain across, turn. (73 sc)

Row 2: Ch 1, hdc in the BLO of the first stitch, sl st in the BLO of the next stitch, *hdc in the BLO of the next stitch, sl st in the BLO of the next stitch; repeat from * to the final stitch, hdc through both loops of the last stitch, turn. (73 sts)

Row 3: Ch 1, hdc in the BLO of the first stitch and in each stitch across to the final stitch, hdc through both loops of the last stitch, turn. (73 sts)

Repeat Rows 2 and 3 until you have completed 43 rows for Large or 47 rows for XL (including the initial sc row). You should finish on a Row 3 repeat. The back panel should measure about 31.5 inches long.

Front Panels (Make 2)

Using the 8.0 mm hook, loosely chain 74.

Row 1: Working into the back bumps of your chain, sc in the second chain from the hook and in each chain across, turn. (73 sc)

Row 2: Ch 1, hdc in the BLO of the first stitch, sl st in the BLO of the next stitch, *hdc in the BLO of the next stitch, sl st in the BLO of the next stitch; repeat from * to the final stitch, hdc through both loops of the last stitch, turn. (73 sts)

Row 3: Ch 1, hdc in the BLO of the first stitch and in each stitch across to the final stitch, hdc through both loops of the last stitch, turn. (73 sts)

Repeat Rows 2 and 3 until you have completed 19 rows for Large or 21 rows for XL (including the initial sc row). Fasten off.

2XL and 3XL Sizes

Back Panel

Using the 8.0 mm hook, loosely chain 76.

Row 1: Working into the back bumps of your chain, sc in the second chain from the hook and in each chain across, turn. (75 sc)

Row 2: Ch 1, hdc in the BLO of the first stitch, sl st in the BLO of the next stitch, *hdc in the BLO of the next stitch, sl st in the BLO of the next stitch; repeat from * to the final stitch, hdc through both loops of the last stitch, turn. (75 sts)

Row 3: Ch 1, hdc in the BLO of the first stitch and in each stitch across to the final stitch, hdc through both loops of the last stitch, turn. (75 sts)

Repeat Rows 2 and 3 until you have completed 51 rows for 2XL or 55 rows for 3XL (including the initial sc row). You should finish on a Row 3 repeat. The back panel should measure about 32.5 inches long.

Front Panels (Make 2)

Using the 8.0 mm hook, loosely chain 76.

Row 1: Working into the back bumps of your chain, sc in the second chain from the hook and in each chain across, turn. (75 sc)

Row 2: Ch 1, hdc in the BLO of the first stitch, sl st in the BLO of the next stitch, *hdc in the BLO of the next stitch, sl st in the BLO of the next stitch; repeat from * to the final stitch, hdc through both loops of the last stitch, turn. (75 sts)

Row 3: Ch 1, hdc in the BLO of the first stitch and in each stitch across to the final stitch, hdc through both loops of the last stitch, turn. (75 sts)

Repeat Rows 2 and 3 until you have completed 23 rows for 2XL or 25 rows for 3XL (including the initial sc row). Fasten off.

Assembling the Panels

Lay your back panel flat with the right side (the side with the braided texture) facing up. Place the two front panels on top of it, ensuring the right sides are touching (facing each other). This keeps the seams hidden on the inside.

Align the textured ridges carefully. Seam the front panels to the back panel across the shoulders.

Next, measure down from the shoulder seam to create your armhole: leave a 7-inch gap for S/M, an 8-inch gap for L/XL, or a 9-inch gap for 2XL/3XL. Seam the remaining side edges together. Ensure both armholes have an identical stitch count (I had 15 stitches on each side for S/M, 17 stitches for L/XL, and 19 stitches for 2XL/3XL).

Crocheting the Sleeves

Attach your yarn at the underarm gap of the armhole.

Round 1: Slip stitch to the underarm, ch 1 (this sl st + ch 1 counts as your first stitch), work hdc evenly around the armhole opening, sl st to the top of the starting chain, turn. (31 sts for S/M, 35 sts for L/XL, 39 sts for 2XL/3XL)

Round 2: Ch 2 (counts as hdc), hdc in each stitch around, sl st to the top of the starting ch-2, turn. (31 sts for S/M, 35 sts for L/XL, 39 sts for 2XL/3XL)

Rounds 3-7: Repeat Round 2 for 5 more rounds. Remember to turn at the end of every round to keep your sleeve seam perfectly straight!

Round 8 (Decrease Round): Ch 2, hdc2tog across the next two stitches, hdc in each stitch around until you reach the final two stitches, hdc2tog across the last two stitches, sl st to the top of the starting ch-2, turn. (29 sts for S/M, 33 sts for L/XL, 37 sts for 2XL/3XL)

Round 9: Repeat Round 2.

Round 10 (Decrease Round): Repeat Round 8. (27 sts for S/M, 31 sts for L/XL, 35 sts for 2XL/3XL)

Round 11: Repeat Round 2.

Round 12 (Decrease Round): Repeat Round 8. (25 sts for S/M, 29 sts for L/XL, 33 sts for 2XL/3XL)

Round 13: Repeat Round 2.

Continue repeating Round 2 until your sleeve measures approximately 15 inches (S/M), 16 inches (L/XL), or 16.5 inches (2XL/3XL). Do not fasten off.

Adding the Sleeve Cuffs

Switch to the smaller 5.5 mm hook. We will work the ribbing perpendicular to the sleeve edge.

Row 1: With the right side facing out, chain 8. Sc in the second chain from your hook and in the next 6 chains, sl st to the next 2 stitches along the sleeve edge, turn. (7 sc)

Row 2: Skip the 2 slip stitches, sc in the BLO of the next 7 stitches, turn.

Row 3: Ch 1, sc in the BLO of the first 7 stitches, sl st to the next 3 stitches along the sleeve edge, turn.

Row 4: Skip the 3 slip stitches, sc in the BLO of the next 7 stitches, turn.

Row 5: Ch 1, sc in the BLO of the first 7 stitches, sl st to the next 2 stitches along the sleeve edge, turn.

Row 6: Skip the 2 slip stitches, sc in the BLO of the next 7 stitches, turn.

Repeat Rows 3 to 6 all the way around the sleeve opening. This alternating slip-stitch method keeps the cuff snug. If you prefer a looser cuff, simply slip stitch into 2 stitches every time instead of alternating. Join the ends of the ribbing together by slip stitching through the starting chain loops and the outer loops of the final row. Fasten off.

Working the Front Collar Ribbing

Mark the 15th stitch (for S/M) or the 18th stitch (for L/XL and 2XL/3XL) from the shoulder seam on both front panels. We will work extra ribbing rows between these markers to allow the collar to curve comfortably around your neck without pulling the hem upward.

Using the 5.5 mm hook, attach your yarn at the bottom left corner of the front opening.

Row 1: Slip stitch to the corner (counts as first chain), chain 6. Sc in the second chain from your hook and in the next 5 chains, sl st to the next 2 stitches along the cardigan edge, turn. (6 sc)

Row 2: Skip the 2 slip stitches, sc in the BLO of the next 6 stitches, turn.

Row 3: Ch 1, sc in the BLO of the first 6 stitches, sl st to the next 2 stitches along the cardigan edge, turn.

Repeat Rows 2 and 3 until you reach your first stitch marker.

Transition Rows: Once you pass the marker, work 1 slip stitch instead of 2 along the edge:

Row A: Ch 1, sc in the BLO of the first 6 stitches, sl st to the next single stitch along the edge, turn.

Row B: Skip the slip stitch, sc in the BLO of the next 6 stitches, turn.

Repeat these transition rows around the back of the neck (slip stitching into the gaps since there are no defined stitches) until you reach the second marker.

Once past the second marker, resume the standard Rows 2 and 3 (slip stitching into 2 stitches along the edge) until you reach the bottom right corner of the front opening. Fasten off.

Adding the Bottom Hem Ribbing

Before starting the ribbing, we need a clean edge along the bottom hem.

Using the 8.0 mm hook and working along the inside (WS) of the cardigan, work a row of sc evenly across the bottom hem. You will have actual stitches to work into only along the front collar ribbing ends. Aim for approximately 127 sc (Small), 137 sc (Medium), 140 sc (Large), 152 sc (XL), 164 sc (2XL), or 175 sc (3XL). Don't worry if your count is off by a stitch or two!

Switch to the 5.5 mm hook.

Row 1: Ch 7, sc in the second chain from your hook and in the next 5 chains, sl st to the next 2 stitches along the hem, turn. (6 sc)

Row 2: Skip the 2 slip stitches, sc in the BLO of the next 6 stitches, turn.

Row 3: Ch 1, sc in the BLO of the first 6 stitches, sl st to the next 2 stitches along the hem, turn.

Repeat Rows 2 and 3 across the hem. To keep the bottom snug, work 3 slip stitches instead of 2 after every 16th row of ribbing. Fasten off.

Attaching the Pockets

Try on your cardigan to find your perfect pocket height.

Using the long tails left on your pockets, whip stitch them to the front panels. Position them right after the second braided ridge from the collar, keeping the single crochet edging at the bottom. Use the shorter tail to sew up the right side, and the longer tail to sew the bottom and left side. Make sure to add a few extra reinforcing stitches at the top corners of the pockets to handle daily wear and tear.

Weave in all remaining yarn tails on the inside of your cardigan.

Easy Variations & Custom Ideas

• Shorter Cardigan: If you prefer a cropped look or a standard cardigan length, simply start with a shorter foundation chain. Any even number of chains will work!
• Contrasting Ribbing: Use a contrasting color for the cuffs, bottom hem, and collar to create a trendy color-blocked look.
• Striped Version: Change colors every few rows using our Seamless Color Change Technique to create bold stripes.
• Lightweight Spring Duster: Swap the super bulky yarn for a category 4 worsted weight yarn and a smaller hook to make a breezy, lightweight version.
• Button Closure: Add a few oversized wooden buttons along the front collar ribbing for a rustic, secure closure.
• Colour ideas: Classic neutrals like cream, charcoal, or beige look incredibly sophisticated. For a pop of color, try mustard yellow, forest green, or a rich plum.
• Yarn substitutions: Lion Brand Wool-Ease Thick & Quick or Paintbox Yarns Simply Super Chunky are excellent alternatives if you cannot find Bernat Softee Chunky.

Common Troubleshooting & Fixes

• Problem: The bottom hem of my cardigan is curling or pulling inward.
  Fix: Your starting chain was likely too tight. Try using a larger hook size just for your foundation chain, or learn How to Adjust Your Foundation Chain to keep your edges perfectly relaxed.
• Problem: My sleeve seams are crooked and diagonal.
  Fix: Make sure you are turning your work at the end of every single round. If you work in continuous rounds without turning, the seam will naturally spiral.
• Problem: The collar ribbing is making the front of my cardigan bunch up.
  Fix: Ensure you are working only 1 slip stitch along the neck edge between your markers. This creates extra ease so the collar can curve smoothly around your neck.
• Problem: My pockets look saggy or stretched out.
  Fix: Block your pockets before sewing them on, and make sure to sew them securely into the body of the stitches, not the gaps between rows.

Care Instructions

To keep your duster looking fresh and cozy, hand wash it in cool water with a mild detergent. Lay it flat on a clean towel to dry. Never hang a wet crochet cardigan, as the heavy weight of the water will stretch the stitches out of shape permanently!

Final Thoughts

There is nothing quite like the satisfaction of wrapping yourself in a garment you made with your own two hands. This duster is bound to become your new favorite companion for chilly mornings and cozy evenings alike. Happy crocheting, my friends!