Autumn Leaves Hooded Poncho

Wrap yourself in the cozy warmth of autumn with this stunning textured hooded poncho, featuring a simple two-row repeat and a size-inclusive design.

There is a distinct magic that happens when the air turns crisp and the leaves begin to drift. It makes me want to wrap myself in something incredibly soft and warm.

But finding that perfect autumn layer can be surprisingly tricky. Heavy jackets often feel too restrictive when you are just running quick errands or relaxing on the porch with a hot mug of cider. Store-bought wraps often slip off your shoulders, leaving you constantly adjusting them. It is frustrating.

That is where a well-designed crochet poncho comes to the rescue. It offers the ultimate hands-free warmth, staying securely in place while draping beautifully over any outfit.

Today, I am thrilled to share my Marlowe Leaves Hooded Poncho pattern with you. This design features a gorgeous, rich texture created by a simple two-row repeat that you will quickly memorize. I chose a self-striping yarn that does all the colorwork for you, mimicking the breathtaking transition of autumn foliage.

Do not let the post stitches intimidate you if you are a beginner. We will walk through them together, step by step. You can even skip the hood entirely if you prefer a classic V-neck style. Let us grab our hooks and get started!

Why You'll Love This Pattern

• TV-friendly stitching: The simple two-row repeat is incredibly easy to memorize, making it the perfect project to work on while relaxing with your favorite show.
• Size-inclusive design: With instructions covering sizes Small all the way to 5XL, everyone can enjoy this cozy, flattering layer.
• Customizable style: You can easily adjust the length by repeating the final rounds, or choose to make it as a classic V-neck without the hood.

Materials You'll Need

• Yarn: Lion Brand Mandala Bonus Bundle (DK weight, size 3, 100% Acrylic; 1,181 yards/1,080m per skein) in the colorway "Centaur" or any equivalent DK weight yarn.
• Hook: Size US 7 (4.5 mm) crochet hook, or size needed to obtain gauge.
• Notions: Stitch markers (or safety pins/contrasting yarn), tapestry needle for weaving in ends.
• Yardage:
  • Sizes S to XL: 1.5 skeins (approx. 1,772 yards) without hood, 2 skeins (approx. 2,362 yards) with hood.
  • Sizes 2XL to 3XL: 2.5 skeins (approx. 2,953 yards) without hood, 3 skeins (approx. 3,543 yards) with hood.
  • Sizes 4XL to 5XL: 3 skeins (approx. 3,543 yards) without hood, 3.5 skeins (approx. 4,134 yards) with hood.

Gauge & Sizing

• Gauge: 4 shells and 9 rows = 4 inches (10 cm) using the gauge swatch pattern.
• Sizes included: S, M, L, XL, 2XL, 3XL, 4XL, 5XL.
• Finished measurements: Measured flat from the base of the neck to the front point:
  • Sizes S/M: 24 inches
  • Sizes L/XL: 26 inches
  • Sizes 2XL/3XL: 28 inches
  • Sizes 4XL/5XL: 30 inches

Abbreviations & Stitch Instructions

• ch: Chain
• sl st: Slip stitch
• sc: Single crochet
• hdc: Half double crochet
• dc: Double crochet
• fpdc (Front Post Double Crochet): Yarn over, insert hook from front to back to front around the post of the indicated stitch, yarn over and pull up a loop, then complete a standard double crochet. You can practice this technique with our Dream Weaver Slouch Hat.
• fphdc (Front Post Half Double Crochet): Work as for fpdc, but complete as a half double crochet.
• bphdc (Back Post Half Double Crochet): Yarn over, insert hook from back to front to back around the post of the indicated stitch, then complete a half double crochet.
• fpsc (Front Post Single Crochet): Insert hook from front to back to front around the post of the indicated stitch, yarn over and pull up a loop, then complete a single crochet.
• V-st (V-stitch): Work (1 dc, ch 1, 1 dc) all into the same specified stitch or space.
• dc2tog (Double Crochet Two Together): Yarn over, insert hook in first stitch, pull up a loop, yarn over, pull through 2 loops (2 loops on hook). Yarn over, insert hook in next stitch, pull up a loop, yarn over, pull through 2 loops. Yarn over, pull through all 3 loops on hook.
• hdc2tog (Half Double Crochet Two Together): Yarn over, insert hook in first stitch, pull up a loop. Insert hook in next stitch, pull up a loop. Yarn over, pull through all 3 loops on hook.
• RS: Right Side of the fabric.
• WS: Wrong Side of the fabric.

Pattern Notes

• Skill Level: Intermediate
• This pattern is written in US crochet terms.
• The item is worked in the round for the main body, turning at the end of each round, and flat in rows for the optional hood.
• Tension Tip: Keep your post stitches relaxed. If they are too tight, your fabric will bunch up and lose its lovely drape.
• Customization Tip: To make your poncho longer, simply repeat the final two rounds of the body until you reach your desired length. Keep in mind that the weight of the fabric will stretch it down by an inch or two when worn!

Step-by-Step Instructions

Gauge Swatch Pattern

Row 1: Work 2 dc in the 5th chain from your hook (the skipped 3 chains count as your first dc). Chain 1, then work 2 dc in the next chain. *Skip the next 3 chains, work 2 dc in the next chain, chain 1, work 2 dc in the following chain. Repeat from * until 2 chains remain. Skip 1 chain, work 1 dc in the last chain, and turn. (7 pattern repeats + 2 dc)

Row 2: Chain 3 (counts as a dc), skip the next dc. *Work 1 fpdc around the next dc, work a V-st in the next chain-1 space, work 1 fpdc around the next dc, skip the next 2 dc. Repeat from * until only 1 dc and the turning chain remain. Skip the next dc, work 1 dc in the top of the turning chain, and turn. (7 shells + 2 dc)

Repeat Row 2 until the swatch is 7 inches tall. Measure to ensure 4 shells and 9 rows equal 4 inches. Adjust hook size if necessary.

The Foundation and Neckline

Note: The pattern is identical for sizes S to XL and for sizes 2XL to 5XL, varying only in the length. Stitch counts are written as S-XL (2XL-5XL).

Chain 130 (140). Slip stitch into the first chain to form a large loop, making sure not to twist the chain.

Round 1: Chain 1 (does not count as a stitch), work 1 hdc in the same chain as your slip stitch, then work 1 hdc in every chain around. Slip stitch to the first hdc to join. [130 (140) hdc]

Note: Turn your work at the end of every round from this point forward.

The Main Poncho Body

Round 2: Chain 3 (counts as a dc), work 2 dc in the same stitch. Chain 2, work 3 dc in the next stitch. Place a stitch marker in this chain-2 space to mark your first corner. *Skip the next 3 stitches, work 2 dc in the next stitch, chain 1, work 2 dc in the next stitch. Repeat from * a total of 12 (13) times. Skip the next 3 stitches, work 3 dc in the next stitch, chain 2, work 3 dc in the next stitch. Place a stitch marker in this chain-2 space to mark your second corner. *Skip the next 3 stitches, work 2 dc in the next stitch, chain 1, work 2 dc in the next stitch. Repeat from * a total of 12 (13) times. Skip the last 3 stitches, slip stitch to the top of the beginning chain-3 to join. Place a marker on this side of the fabric to indicate the Right Side (RS). Turn. [12 (13) repeats on each side of the corner + 2 corners]

Round 3: Slip stitch into the next dc, work a fpsc around the next dc, chain 2 (this fpsc + ch 2 counts as your first fpdc here and throughout). Work a V-st in the next chain-1 space, work 1 fpdc around the next dc. *Skip the next 2 dc, work 1 fpdc around the next dc, work a V-st in the next chain-1 space, work 1 fpdc around the next dc. Repeat from * a total of 11 (12) times to reach the corner. Skip the next 2 dc, work 1 fpdc around each of the next 2 dc stitches right before the chain-2 space. Work (3 dc, chain 2, 3 dc) in the chain-2 space, moving your marker up into the new chain-2 space. Work 1 fpdc around each of the next 2 dc stitches. *Skip the next 2 dc, work 1 fpdc around the next dc, work a V-st in the next chain-1 space, work 1 fpdc around the next dc. Repeat from * a total of 11 (12) times to reach the next corner. Skip the next 2 dc, work 1 fpdc around each of the next 2 dc right before the chain-2 space. Work (3 dc, chain 2, 3 dc) in the chain-2 space, moving your marker up. Work 1 fpdc around each of the next 2 dc right after the chain-2 space. Slip stitch to the top of the beginning chain-2 to join. Turn. [12 (13) shells on each side of the corner + 2 corners]

Round 4: Slip stitch into the next dc, work a fpsc around the next dc, chain 2, work a V-st in the next stitch, work 1 fpdc around the next dc, skip the next dc. Work (3 dc, chain 2, 3 dc) in the chain-2 space, moving your marker up. Skip the next dc, work 1 fpdc around the next dc, work a V-st in the next dc, work 1 fpdc around the next dc. *Skip the next 2 dc, work 1 fpdc around the next dc, work a V-st in the next chain-1 space, work 1 fpdc around the next dc. Repeat from * a total of 11 (12) times to reach the corner stitches. Skip the next 2 dc, work 1 fpdc around the next dc, work a V-st in the next dc, work 1 fpdc around the next dc, skip the next dc. Work (3 dc, chain 2, 3 dc) in the chain-2 space, moving your marker up. Skip the next dc, work 1 fpdc around the next dc, work a V-st in the next dc, work 1 fpdc around the next dc. *Skip the next 2 dc, work 1 fpdc around the next dc, work a V-st in the next chain-1 space, work 1 fpdc around the next dc. Repeat from * a total of 11 (12) times. Slip stitch to the top of the beginning chain-2 to join. Turn. [14 (15) shells on each side of the corner + 2 corners]

Round 5: Slip stitch into the next dc, work a fpsc around the next dc, chain 2, work a V-st in the next chain-1 space, work 1 fpdc around the next dc. *Skip the next 2 dc, work 1 fpdc around the next dc, work a V-st in the next chain-1 space, work 1 fpdc around the next dc. Repeat from * a total of 12 (13) times to reach the corner. Skip the next 2 dc, work 1 fpdc around each of the next 2 dc right before the chain-2 space. Work (3 dc, chain 2, 3 dc) in the chain-2 space, moving your marker up. Work 1 fpdc around each of the next 2 dc. *Skip the next 2 dc, work 1 fpdc around the next dc, work a V-st in the next chain-1 space, work 1 fpdc around the next dc. Repeat from * a total of 12 (13) times to reach the next corner. Skip the next 2 dc, work 1 fpdc around each of the next 2 dc right before the chain-2 space. Work (3 dc, chain 2, 3 dc) in the chain-2 space, moving your marker up. Work 1 fpdc around each of the next 2 dc right after the chain-2 space. Skip the next 2 dc, work 1 fpdc around the next dc, work a V-st in the next chain-1 space, work 1 fpdc around the next dc. Slip stitch to the top of the beginning chain-2 to join. Turn. [14 (15) shells on each side of the corner + 2 corners]

Round 6: Slip stitch into the next dc, work a fpsc around the next dc, chain 2, work a V-st in the next chain-1 space, work 1 fpdc around the next dc. Skip the next 2 stitches, work 1 fpdc around the next dc, work a V-st in the next dc, work 1 fpdc around the next dc, skip the next dc. Work (3 dc, chain 2, 3 dc) in the chain-2 space, moving your marker up. Skip the next dc, work 1 fpdc around the next dc, work a V-st in the next dc, work 1 fpdc around the next dc. *Skip the next 2 dc, work 1 fpdc around the next dc, work a V-st in the next chain-1 space, work 1 fpdc around the next dc. Repeat from * a total of 13 (14) times to reach the corner. Skip the next 2 dc, work 1 fpdc around the next dc, work a V-st in the next dc, work 1 fpdc around the next dc, skip the next dc. Work (3 dc, chain 2, 3 dc) in the chain-2 space, moving your marker up. Skip the next dc, work 1 fpdc around the next dc, work a V-st in the next dc, work 1 fpdc around the next dc. *Skip the next 2 dc, work 1 fpdc around the next dc, work a V-st in the next chain-1 space, work 1 fpdc around the next dc. Repeat from * a total of 12 (13) times. Slip stitch to the top of the beginning chain-2 to join. Turn. [16 (17) shells on each side of the corner + 2 corners]

Round 7: Slip stitch into the next dc, work a fpsc around the next dc, chain 2, work a V-st in the next chain-1 space, work 1 fpdc around the next dc. *Skip the next 2 dc, work 1 fpdc around the next dc, work a V-st in the next chain-1 space, work 1 fpdc around the next dc. Repeat from * a total of 13 (14) times to reach the corner. Skip the next 2 dc, work 1 fpdc around each of the next 2 dc right before the chain-2 space. Work (3 dc, chain 2, 3 dc) in the chain-2 space, moving your marker up. Work 1 fpdc around each of the next 2 dc. *Skip the next 2 dc, work 1 fpdc around the next dc, work a V-st in the next chain-1 space, work 1 fpdc around the next dc. Repeat from * a total of 13 (14) times to reach the next corner. Skip the next 2 dc, work 1 fpdc around each of the next 2 dc right before the chain-2 space. Work (3 dc, chain 2, 3 dc) in the chain-2 space, moving your marker up. Work 1 fpdc around each of the next 2 dc right after the chain-2 space. *Skip the next 2 dc, work 1 fpdc around the next dc, work a V-st in the next chain-1 space, work 1 fpdc around the next dc. Repeat from * until you reach the beginning chain-2. Slip stitch to the top of the beginning chain-2 to join. Turn. [16 (17) shells on each side of the corner + 2 corners]

Round 8: Slip stitch into the next dc, work a fpsc around the next dc, chain 2, work a V-st in the next chain-1 space, work 1 fpdc around the next dc. Skip the next 2 dc, work 1 fpdc around the next dc, work a V-st in the next chain-1 space, work 1 fpdc around the next dc. Skip the next 2 stitches, work 1 fpdc around the next dc, work a V-st in the next dc, work 1 fpdc around the next dc, skip the next dc. Work (3 dc, chain 2, 3 dc) in the chain-2 space, moving your marker up. Skip the next dc, work 1 fpdc around the next dc, work a V-st in the next dc, work 1 fpdc around the next dc. *Skip the next 2 dc, work 1 fpdc around the next dc, work a V-st in the next chain-1 space, work 1 fpdc around the next dc. Repeat from * a total of 15 (16) times to reach the corner. Skip the next 2 dc, work 1 fpdc around the next dc, work a V-st in the next dc, work 1 fpdc around the next dc, skip the next dc. Work (3 dc, chain 2, 3 dc) in the chain-2 space, moving your marker up. Skip the next dc, work 1 fpdc around the next dc, work a V-st in the next dc, work 1 fpdc around the next dc. *Skip the next 2 dc, work 1 fpdc around the next dc, work a V-st in the next chain-1 space, work 1 fpdc around the next dc. Repeat from * a total of 13 (14) times. Slip stitch to the top of the beginning chain-2 to join. Turn. [18 (19) shells on each side of the corner + 2 corners]

Round 9: Slip stitch into the next dc, work a fpsc around the next dc, chain 2, work a V-st in the next chain-1 space, work 1 fpdc around the next dc. *Skip the next 2 dc, work 1 fpdc around the next dc, work a V-st in the next chain-1 space, work 1 fpdc around the next dc. Repeat from * until you reach the 3 dc stitches of the next corner. Skip the next 2 dc, work 1 fpdc around each of the next 2 dc right before the chain-2 space. Work (3 dc, chain 2, 3 dc) in the chain-2 space, moving your marker up. Work 1 fpdc around each of the next 2 dc. *Skip the next 2 dc, work 1 fpdc around the next dc, work a V-st in the next chain-1 space, work 1 fpdc around the next dc. Repeat from * until you reach the 3 dc stitches of the next corner. Skip the next 2 dc, work 1 fpdc around each of the next 2 dc right before the chain-2 space. Work (3 dc, chain 2, 3 dc) in the chain-2 space, moving your marker up. Work 1 fpdc around each of the next 2 dc right after the chain-2 space. *Skip the next 2 dc, work 1 fpdc around the next dc, work a V-st in the next chain-1 space, work 1 fpdc around the next dc. Repeat from * until you reach the beginning chain-2. Slip stitch to the top of the beginning chain-2 to join. Turn. [18 (19) shells on each side of the corner + 2 corners]

Round 10: Slip stitch into the next dc, work a fpsc around the next dc, chain 2, work a V-st in the next chain-1 space, work 1 fpdc around the next dc. *Skip the next 2 dc, work 1 fpdc around the next dc, work a V-st in the next chain-1 space, work 1 fpdc around the next dc. Repeat from * until you reach the 5 dc stitches before the chain-2 space. Skip the next 2 stitches, work 1 fpdc around the next dc, work a V-st in the next stitch, work 1 fpdc around the next dc, skip the next dc. Work (3 dc, chain 2, 3 dc) in the chain-2 space, moving your marker up. Skip the next dc, work 1 fpdc around the next dc, work a V-st in the next dc, work 1 fpdc around the next dc. *Skip the next 2 dc, work 1 fpdc around the next dc, work a V-st in the next chain-1 space, work 1 fpdc around the next dc. Repeat from * until you reach the 5 dc stitches at the next corner. Skip the next 2 dc, work 1 fpdc around the next dc, work a V-st in the next dc, work 1 fpdc around the next dc, skip the next dc. Work (3 dc, chain 2, 3 dc) in the chain-2 space, moving your marker up. Skip the next dc, work 1 fpdc around the next dc, work a V-st in the next dc, work 1 fpdc around the next dc. *Skip the next 2 dc, work 1 fpdc around the next dc, work a V-st in the next chain-1 space, work 1 fpdc around the next dc. Repeat from * until you reach the beginning chain-2. Slip stitch to the top of the beginning chain-2 to join. Turn. [20 (21) shells on each side of the corner + 2 corners]

Rounds 11 to 30: Keep repeating Rounds 9 and 10. Each even round will add 2 shells between the corners. For example, at the end of Round 12, you will have 22 (23) shells on each side, and at the end of Round 14, you will have 24 (25) shells on each side, and so on, until you have completed 1 hdc row + 29 shell rows.

The Lower Body and Point Reduction

Note: The following rounds are worked similarly to the previous ones, but we will use half double crochets at the corners to soften the front point.

Round 31: Slip stitch into the next dc, work a fpsc around the next dc, chain 2, work a V-st in the next chain-1 space, work 1 fpdc around the next dc. *Skip the next 2 dc, work 1 fpdc around the next dc, work a V-st in the next chain-1 space, work 1 fpdc around the next dc. Repeat from * until you reach the 3 dc stitches of the next corner. Skip the next 2 dc, work 1 fpdc around each of the next 2 dc right before the chain-2 space. Work (3 hdc, chain 2, 3 hdc) in the chain-2 space, moving your marker up. Work 1 fpdc around each of the next 2 dc. *Skip the next 2 dc, work 1 fpdc around the next dc, work a V-st in the next chain-1 space, work 1 fpdc around the next dc. Repeat from * until you reach the 3 dc stitches of the next corner. Skip the next 2 dc, work 1 fpdc around each of the next 2 dc right before the chain-2 space. Work (3 hdc, chain 2, 3 hdc) in the chain-2 space, moving your marker up. Work 1 fpdc around each of the next 2 dc right after the chain-2 space. *Skip the next 2 dc, work 1 fpdc around the next dc, work a V-st in the next chain-1 space, work 1 fpdc around the next dc. Repeat from * until you reach the beginning chain-2. Slip stitch to the top of the beginning chain-2 to join. Turn. [40 (41) shells on each side of the corner + 2 corners]

Round 32: Slip stitch into the next dc, work a fpsc around the next dc, chain 2, work a V-st in the next chain-1 space, work 1 fpdc around the next dc. *Skip the next 2 dc, work 1 fpdc around the next dc, work a V-st in the next chain-1 space, work 1 fpdc around the next dc. Repeat from * until you reach the 5 dc stitches before the chain-2 space. Skip the next 2 stitches, work 1 fpdc around the next dc, work a V-st in the next stitch, work 1 fpdc around the next dc, skip the next dc. Work (3 hdc, chain 2, 3 hdc) in the chain-2 space, moving your marker up. Skip the next dc, work 1 fpdc around the next dc, work a V-st in the next dc, work 1 fpdc around the next dc. *Skip the next 2 dc, work 1 fpdc around the next dc, work a V-st in the next chain-1 space, work 1 fpdc around the next dc. Repeat from * until you reach the 5 dc stitches at the next corner. Skip the next 2 dc, work 1 fpdc around the next dc, work a V-st in the next dc, work 1 fpdc around the next dc, skip the next dc. Work (3 hdc, chain 2, 3 hdc) in the chain-2 space, moving your marker up. Skip the next dc, work 1 fpdc around the next dc, work a V-st in the next dc, work 1 fpdc around the next dc. *Skip the next 2 dc, work 1 fpdc around the next dc, work a V-st in the next chain-1 space, work 1 fpdc around the next dc. Repeat from * until you reach the beginning chain-2. Slip stitch to the top of the beginning chain-2 to join. Turn. [42 (43) shells on each side of the corner + 2 corners]

Round 33: Slip stitch into the next dc, work a fpsc around the next dc, chain 2, work a V-st in the next chain-1 space, work 1 fpdc around the next dc. *Skip the next 2 dc, work 1 fpdc around the next dc, work a V-st in the next chain-1 space, work 1 fpdc around the next dc. Repeat from * until you reach the 3 hdc stitches of the next corner. Skip the next 2 stitches, work 1 fpdc around each of the next 2 hdc stitches right before the chain-2 space. Work (3 hdc, chain 2, 3 hdc) in the chain-2 space, moving your marker up. Work 1 fpdc around each of the next 2 stitches. *Skip the next 2 stitches, work 1 fpdc around the next dc, work a V-st in the next chain-1 space, work 1 fpdc around the next dc. Repeat from * until you reach the 3 hdc stitches of the next corner. Skip the next 2 stitches, work 1 fpdc around each of the next 2 hdc right before the chain-2 space. Work (3 hdc, chain 2, 3 hdc) in the chain-2 space, moving your marker up. Work 1 fpdc around each of the next 2 stitches right after the chain-2 space. *Skip the next 2 stitches, work 1 fpdc around the next dc, work a V-st in the next chain-1 space, work 1 fpdc around the next dc. Repeat from * until you reach the beginning chain-2. Slip stitch to the top of the beginning chain-2 to join. Turn. [42 (43) shells on each side of the corner + 2 corners]

Round 34: Slip stitch into the next dc, work a fpsc around the next dc, chain 2, work a V-st in the next chain-1 space, work 1 fpdc around the next dc. *Skip the next 2 dc, work 1 fpdc around the next dc, work a V-st in the next chain-1 space, work 1 fpdc around the next dc. Repeat from * until you reach the 5 stitches before the chain-2 space. Skip the next 2 stitches, work 1 fpdc around the next stitch, work a V-st in the next stitch, work 1 fpdc around the next stitch, skip the next hdc. Work (3 hdc, chain 2, 3 hdc) in the chain-2 space, moving your marker up. Skip the next hdc, work 1 fpdc around the next stitch, work a V-st in the next stitch, work 1 fpdc around the next stitch. *Skip the next 2 stitches, work 1 fpdc around the next dc, work a V-st in the next chain-1 space, work 1 fpdc around the next dc. Repeat from * until you reach the 5 stitches at the next corner. Skip the next 2 stitches, work 1 fpdc around the next stitch, work a V-st in the next stitch, work 1 fpdc around the next stitch, skip the next stitch. Work (3 hdc, chain 2, 3 hdc) in the chain-2 space, moving your marker up. Skip the next hdc, work 1 fpdc around the next stitch, work a V-st in the next stitch, work 1 fpdc around the next stitch. *Skip the next 2 stitches, work 1 fpdc around the next dc, work a V-st in the next chain-1 space, work 1 fpdc around the next dc. Repeat from * until you reach the beginning chain-2. Slip stitch to the top of the beginning chain-2 to join. Turn. [44 (45) shells on each side of the corner + 2 corners]

Rounds 35+: Keep repeating Rounds 33 and 34 until the poncho reaches your desired length. For sizes S/M, aim for 23 inches; for L/XL, 25 inches; for 2XL/3XL, 27 inches; and for 4XL/5XL, 29 inches (measured flat from the base of the neck to the front point). Fasten off and weave in ends.

Finishing the Neckline

Round 1: Slip stitch to the base of the neck where your starting tail is located. Chain 2 (counts as a hdc), work 1 fphdc around the next stitch. *Work 1 bphdc around the next stitch, work 1 fphdc around the next stitch. Repeat from * to the end of the round. Slip stitch to the top of the beginning chain-2 to join. Do not turn. [130 (140) stitches]

Round 2: Chain 2, work a fphdc around every fphdc and a bphdc around every bphdc around. Slip stitch to the top of the beginning chain-2 to join. Fasten off. [130 (140) stitches]

Note: If you prefer a V-neck poncho without a hood, your project is now complete!

Adding the Optional Hood

The hood is worked back and forth in rows directly onto the neckline. We need a multiple of 5 + 1 stitches.

Skip 24 stitches at the center front of the neck and place stitch markers on both sides of this gap. You will work across the remaining 106 (116) stitches.

Row 1 (RS): With the right side of the poncho facing you, slip stitch to the first marked stitch on the left. Chain 2 (counts as your first dc), skip the next stitch, work 2 dc in the next stitch, chain 1, work 2 dc in the next stitch. *Skip the next 3 stitches, work 2 dc in the next stitch, chain 1, work 2 dc in the next stitch. Repeat from * until only 1 stitch remains before the next marked stitch. Skip that stitch, work 1 dc in the marked stitch, and turn. [21 (23) repeats + 2 dc]

Note: To keep your edges perfectly straight, always work the final stitch of each row into the top of the turning chain-2 from the previous row.

Row 2: Chain 3 (counts as a dc), skip the next dc. *Work 1 fpdc around the next dc, work a V-st in the next chain-1 space, work 1 fpdc around the next dc, skip the next 2 dc. Repeat from * until only 1 dc and the turning chain remain. Skip the next dc, work 1 dc in the top of the turning chain-2, and turn.

Repeat Row 2 until the hood measures 12.5 (13) inches from the neckline up.

Final Row: Chain 1, work 1 sc in the next dc, work a sc2tog across the next 2 dc (skipping the chain-1 space between them). *Work 1 sc in each of the next 2 dc, work a sc2tog across the next 2 dc. Repeat from * until only 1 dc and the turning chain remain. Work 1 sc in the next dc and 1 sc in the top of the turning chain. Do not fasten off.

Seaming and Edging the Hood

Fold the hood in half so the top edges align. You can slip stitch the seam together along the inside (WS) of the hood for a quick finish. Alternatively, turn the hood right side out and use a mattress stitch for a beautifully flat, invisible seam.

Edging (RS): With the right side facing, slip stitch to the side of the hood. Work 1 sc in the same space, then distribute single crochet stitches evenly along the front edge of the hood until you reach the front neck area. Work 1 sc into each of the skipped neck stitches, then continue working single crochet stitches evenly up the other side of the hood. Slip stitch to the first sc to join, fasten off, and weave in all remaining tails.

Easy Variations & Custom Ideas

• V-Neck Style: Skip the hood entirely and finish the neckline with the ribbed collar for a classic, elegant V-neck look.
• Fringe Border: Add a playful, bohemian touch by attaching long yarn fringes along the bottom edges of the poncho.
• Cozy Pom-Poms: Attach a large, fluffy yarn pom-pom to the peak of the hood for a fun, whimsical winter look.
• Solid Color Classic: Instead of self-striping yarn, use a solid color to highlight the rich, cabled texture of the post stitches.
• Matching Accessories: Pair your poncho with a matching Dream Weaver Slouch Hat or a textured Ellie Cowl for a complete cold-weather set.
• Colour ideas: Rich jewel tones like emerald green, deep burgundy, or mustard yellow work beautifully for autumn. For a winter wonderland vibe, try soft creams, icy blues, or charcoal grays.
• Yarn substitutions: Any standard category 3 (DK weight) yarn will work beautifully. Excellent alternatives include Lion Brand Mandala, Stylecraft Special DK, or Paintbox Yarns Simply DK.

Common Troubleshooting & Fixes

• Problem: The bottom edge of my poncho is curling inward.
  Fix: This usually happens if your post stitches are too tight. Try relaxing your tension when working the fpdc stitches, or switch to a hook that is half a millimeter larger.
• Problem: The front point of the poncho looks too sharp and dramatic.
  Fix: Make sure you transitioned to the point-reduction rounds (starting at Round 31) where we swap the double crochets for half double crochets at the corners. This naturally softens the point.
• Problem: The hood is pulling the neckline backward when worn.
  Fix: Ensure you skipped exactly 24 stitches at the front of the neck. If you skip too few, the hood opening will be too narrow, causing it to pull.
• Problem: My color changes look abrupt or messy.
  Fix: When using self-striping yarn, color changes are inevitable. If a transition happens in a highly visible spot like the front point, you can cut the yarn and spit-splice or join a matching color section to keep the gradient smooth. Check out our guide on Seamless Round Color Changes for more tips.

Care Instructions

To keep your poncho looking as beautiful as the day you finished it, I highly recommend hand washing it in cool water with a gentle wool wash. Gently squeeze out the excess water by rolling it in a clean towel—never wring or twist the crochet fabric. Lay it flat to dry on a blocking mat or a dry towel to preserve its shape and prevent stretching.

Final Thoughts

There is nothing quite like the feeling of wearing a handmade garment that you poured your love and time into. This Marlowe Leaves Hooded Poncho is sure to become a staple in your cold-weather wardrobe, drawing compliments wherever you go. Take your time, enjoy the rhythmic flow of the stitches, and don't forget to share your beautiful finished projects with me. Happy crocheting, my friends!