Chomper Crochet Dinosaur

Bring a touch of prehistoric magic to your hook with this adorable, low-sew crochet dinosaur pattern featuring soft spikes and a cuddly, mischievous personality.

Have you ever started an amigurumi project only to find yourself buried under a mountain of tiny, detached limbs waiting to be sewn together?

I know that feeling all too well.

Honestly, spending hours seaming tiny pieces is the quickest way to put a dampener on your creative spark.

It is exhausting.

That is exactly why I designed Chomper, a chunky little prehistoric friend who requires almost zero sewing.

By crocheting the legs directly into the body join and working the neck right from the torso, we keep the tedious needlework to an absolute minimum.

You will only need to sew on his head, tail, and those cute purple spikes.

This sweet guy is worked up in super chunky chenille yarn, making him incredibly squishy and fast to complete.

He is the perfect companion piece to my Chunky Chenille Baby Blanket, creating a wonderful gift set for baby showers or birthdays.

Just watch out for your fiberfill supply, as this little monster has a habit of "eating" stuffing faster than you can pack it in!

Why You'll Love This Pattern

• Low-Sew Construction: The legs are joined as you crochet the body pieces together, saving you heaps of assembly time.
• Super Fast Workup: Using size 6 blanket yarn means your dinosaur grows incredibly quickly.
• Beginner Friendly: Simple stitches and clear placement tips make this a stress-free introduction to making plushies.

Materials You'll Need

• Yarn: Bernat Blanket yarn in Clary Sage (super chunky size 6 chenille) and Bernat Baby Blanket yarn in Planetary Purple Sparkle. You will also need a tiny scrap of white yarn for eye details and 3/4 yard of black worsted-weight yarn for the mouth.
• Hook: 8.0 mm (US L/11) crochet hook (or size needed to obtain a tight, no-gap fabric).
• Notions: Tapestry needle, a pair of 16mm safety eyes, small pieces of cross-stitch fabric (to secure the safety eyes), and high-quality fiberfill stuffing.
• Yardage: Approximately 120 yards of Clary Sage (green) and 70 yards of Planetary Purple Sparkle (purple).

Gauge & Sizing

• Gauge: Not critical for this project, but your stitches must be tight enough to prevent the stuffing from peeking through.
• Sizes included: One size.
• Finished measurements: Approximately 15 inches long from the tip of his nose to the end of his tail.

Abbreviations & Stitch Instructions

• ch: Chain
• sc: Single Crochet
• st(s): Stitch(es)
• sk: Skip
• sl st: Slip Stitch
• dec / sc2tog: Single Crochet Decrease. Pull up a loop in the next 2 stitches, yarn over, and pull through all 3 loops on your hook.
• MR: Magic Ring
• Invisible Join: After your last stitch, cut your yarn and pull the tail straight through. Thread it onto a needle, skip the next stitch, and pass under both loops of the following stitch. Insert the needle back down into the center of the last stitch your yarn emerged from. Pull to match the size of your other stitches, then secure inside. For a detailed guide, check out our tutorial on the Crochet Invisible Join Method.

Pattern Notes

• Skill Level: Easy / Advanced Beginner.
• This pattern is written in US crochet terms.
• The item is worked in continuous rounds (in a spiral) without turning, unless specified.
• Tension Tip: Keep your tension firm, especially when working with blanket yarn, to avoid gaps where stuffing can escape.
• Customization Tip: Feel free to swap the colors to match any nursery decor!

Step-by-Step Instructions

Crocheting the Green Upper Body

We will begin by making the top half of the dinosaur's body using green yarn.

Round 1: With green yarn, ch 4, 2 sc in 2nd ch from hook, 2 sc in next ch, 5 sc in last ch. Now, work along the opposite side of the foundation chain: 2 sc in next free loop, 3 sc in last loop. (14 sc)

Tip: When working into the free loops of the foundation chain, insert your hook under the spot where two loops meet to prevent a hole from forming.

Round 2: (2 sc in next st, 1 sc in next st) twice, 2 sc in next 4 sts, 1 sc in next st, 2 sc in next st, 1 sc in next st, 2 sc in last 3 sts. (24 sc)

Round 3: 2 sc in next 2 sts, 1 sc in next 6 sts, 2 sc in next 2 sts, 1 sc in next st, 2 sc in next 2 sts, 1 sc in next 8 sts, 2 sc in next 2 sts, 1 sc in last st. (32 sc)

Round 4: 2 sc in next st, 1 sc in next st, 2 sc in next st, 1 sc in next 4 sts, 2 sc in next st, 1 sc in next 3 sts, *(2 sc in next st, 1 sc in next) 5 times, 1 sc in next 2 sts, 2 sc in next st, 1 sc in next 2 sts, (2 sc in next st, 1 sc in next) 3 times to end of round. (44 sc)

Round 5: 1 sc in next 2 sts, (2 sc in next st, 1 sc in next) twice, 1 sc in next 8 sts, (2 sc in next st, 1 sc in next) twice, 1 sc in next 6 sts, (2 sc in next st, 1 sc in next) twice, 1 sc in next 10 sts, (2 sc in next st, 1 sc in next) twice, 1 sc in last 2 sts. (52 sc)

Round 6: 1 sc in next 4 sts, 2 sc in next st, 1 sc in next 14 sts, 2 sc in next st, 1 sc in next 10 sts, 2 sc in next st, 1 sc in next 14 sts, 2 sc in next st, 1 sc in next 5 sts, leave last st unworked. (55 sc)

Note: Your oval rounds may have a slight twist due to working in a spiral without turning. This is completely normal and won't be noticeable once assembled.

Round 7 (Neck Opening): Ch 3, skip 3 sts (the unworked st, the marked st, and the following st), 1 sc in next 5 sts. Fold the piece in half to ensure this opening is centered at the front. If not, adjust by starting the chain 3 earlier. Continue with 1 sc in each st around until you reach the stitch right before the neck chain.

Round 8 (Tail Opening): 1 sc in next 3 chs (insert hook under two loops of the chain), mark the first of these 3 sts, 1 sc in each st until you are 2 sts before the center back. Ch 5, skip 5 sts, 1 sc in next 5 sts. Fold to check if this is centered at the back, aligning with the front neck hole. Adjust if needed. Continue with 1 sc in each st around to the stitch before the marked stitch. Fasten off and finish with an invisible join. (56 sc)

Crocheting the Purple Belly

Now we will make the flat underbelly using our purple yarn.

Rounds 1 to 5: Work exactly as detailed for the Green Upper Body.

Round 6: 1 sc in next 4 sts, 2 sc in next st, 1 sc in next 14 sts, 2 sc in next st, 1 sc in next 10 sts, 2 sc in next st, 1 sc in next 14 sts, 2 sc in next st, 1 sc in next 6 sts. Fasten off and finish with an invisible join. (56 sc)

Crafting the Legs (Make 4)

These cute little feet are worked starting with the purple soles and transitioning to green legs.

Round 1: Using purple yarn, make 7 sc in a magic ring. (7 sc)

Round 2: 2 sc in next st (mark the first st of this round to keep track), 2 sc in next 6 sts. (14 sc)

Round 3: 1 sc in each st around. Sl st to the marked st. (14 sc)

Color Change: Pull the green yarn through the purple loop on your hook. Pull the purple yarn tight to close the loop, cut the purple yarn, and tie the two tails together inside the leg. For more help with this step, see our guide on Seamless Crochet Color Changes.

Round 4: With green yarn, ch 1, *(1 sc in next st, dec over next 2 sts), repeat from * until 2 sts remain, 1 sc in last 2 sts. (10 sc)

Tip: Begin stuffing the leg now, but do not stuff the very top edge so it is easy to join.

Round 5: 1 sc in the marked st and each st around. (10 sc)

Round 6: *(1 sc in next st, 1 sc in next 2 sts, sc2tog over next 2 sts), repeat from * to end. Sl st to the marked st, cut yarn, and pull the tail through. (8 sc)

Finish stuffing the leg, leaving the last round free. Tie and tuck the yarn tail inside.

Positioning and Joining the Legs

We will now attach the legs as we join the green back and purple belly together.

First, place your stitch markers on the green body to mark the leg positions. Place a marker at the middle of the neck hole. Skip 3 stitches to the left and right of it, and place a marker in the 4th stitch on each side. At the tail hole, skip 2 stitches from the end of the ch-5 space, and place a marker on the 3rd stitch on both sides for the hind legs.

Align the purple belly under the green body, ensuring the right side of the belly faces downward. With green yarn, insert your hook through the stitch right after the ch-5 tail loop and the corresponding belly stitch. Pull up a loop. Slip stitch into the next stitch before the marked stitch.

Place a leg between the layers at the marked stitch. Work 4 slip stitches through all three layers (green body, both flat edges of the leg, and the purple belly). Once attached, slip stitch through both body layers until you are 3 stitches before the next marker. Insert the first front leg and attach with 4 slip stitches.

Slip stitch through both layers across the front to the next leg marker. Attach the second front leg with 4 slip stitches. Start stuffing the body firmly. Slip stitch both layers together until 3 stitches remain before the final marker. Attach the second hind leg with 4 slip stitches.

Continue slip stitching the layers together. When you reach the tail chain, work under 2 loops of the chain. Slip stitch to the beginning, cut yarn, and pull the tail through. Add extra stuffing through the neck and tail openings if needed.

Making the Legs Upright: Turn the dinosaur upside down. Hold each leg close to the body and sew it to the purple belly using purple yarn so it stands upright.

Growing the Neck

The neck is worked directly into the front opening of the body.

Round 1: Start at the top of the neck opening. Work 1 sc in the first skipped st (mark this st), 2 sc in next st, 1 sc in next st, 2 sc along the side of the opening, 1 sc in next ch loop, 2 sc in next ch loop, 1 sc in last ch loop, 2 sc along the side of the opening. (12 sc)

Round 2: 1 sc in marked st, 2 sc in next 3 sts, 1 sc in next st, (sc2tog) 3 times, 1 sc in last st. (12 sc)

Tip: Stuff the neck firmly so it can support the head.

Round 3: 1 sc in marked st and each st around. (12 sc)

Round 4: 1 sc in marked st, 1 sc in next 4 sts, 2 sc in next st, 1 sc in next 4 sts, sc2tog over last 2 sts, sl st to marked st. Cut yarn, leaving a 3/4 yard tail. Stuff the neck until very stiff.

Shaping the Head

Round 1: With green yarn, work 8 sc in a magic ring. (8 sc)

Round 2: *(2 sc in next st, 1 sc in next st), repeat from * around. (12 sc)

Round 3: 1 sc in each st around. (12 sc)

Round 4: *(2 sc in next st, 1 sc in next st), repeat from * around. (18 sc)

Tip: Start stuffing the head now and add more as you go.

Rounds 5 to 7: 1 sc in each st around. (18 sc)

Round 8: *(1 sc in next st, sc2tog over next 2 sts), repeat from * around. (12 sc)

Safety Eyes: Attach 16mm safety eyes on Round 6, leaving 4 stitches between them. To secure, place a 1.5" x 1" piece of cross-stitch fabric over the post inside the head before snapping the backing on. (For babies, embroider the eyes instead).

Round 9: *(sc2tog over next 2 sts), repeat from * around. Sl st to first st, cut yarn leaving a 1/2 yard tail. (6 sc)

Whip stitch through the front loops of the remaining 6 stitches, pull tight to close, and hide the tail inside.

Sewing Head to Neck: Position the head on the neck with a slight overhang at the back. Sew securely, adding extra stuffing before closing.

Embroidering the Mouth: Thread a tapestry needle with black yarn. Count down 4 rows from the front of the face, starting 1 stitch below the eye. Pass the needle through to the same spot on the other side. Pull the yarn across the face, insert back into the start, and exit the second hole. Bring the yarn across again, catch a stitch at the center of the mouth to anchor it, and loop around the strand. Secure, knot, and hide the ends.

Crocheting the Tail

Round 1: With green yarn, work 4 sc in a magic ring. Mark the first st. (4 sc)

Round 2: Work the first sc tightly to avoid a hole. 2 sc in marked st (mark the first of these), push the work right side out, 1 sc in next st, 2 sc in next st, 1 sc in last st. (6 sc)

Round 3: *(2 sc in next st, 1 sc in next st), repeat from * around. (9 sc)

Round 4: 1 sc in each st around. (9 sc)

Round 5: *(2 sc in next st, 1 sc in next 2 sts), repeat from * around. (12 sc)

Rounds 6 to 8: 1 sc in each st around. (12 sc)

Round 9: 1 sc in each st around to the last st, 2 sc in the last st. Sl st to the first st, cut yarn, and pull the tail through. (13 sc)

Attaching the Tail: Insert the tail into the back opening of the body. It should fit snugly. Sew it in place using a fresh strand of green yarn, pulling the edges slightly to cup the tail.

Making and Adding the Spikes

Round 1: With purple yarn, work 4 sc in a magic ring, sl st to marked st. (4 sc)

Round 2: Ch 1, 2 sc in next st, 1 sc in next st, 2 sc in next 2 sts, sl st to marked st. (7 sc)

Tip: Push the spike right side out.

Round 3: Ch 1, 2 sc in next st, (1 sc in next st, 2 sc in next st) 3 times, sl st to marked st. (11 sc)

Round 4: Ch 1, 2 sc in next st, 1 sc in next 5 sts, 2 sc in next st, 1 sc in remaining 4 sts, sl st to marked st. Leave a 3/4 yard tail for sewing. (13 sc)

Note: Do not stuff the spikes.

Assembly: Pin the spikes along the back. Sew them down using the yarn tails. To keep the green body looking clean, lift the edge of the spike and sew into the green stitches directly underneath it. Hide all remaining yarn tails.

Easy Variations & Custom Ideas

• Miniature Version: Use worsted weight yarn and a 4.0 mm hook to make a tiny pocket-sized Chomper.
• Striped Belly: Change colors every round on the belly piece for a fun, colorful look. Check out our guide on Seamless Crochet Color Changes to keep your stripes neat.
• Giraffe or Monster Swap: Swap the green for yellow and purple for brown to turn this pattern into a cute baby giraffe!
• Embroidered Spots: Add small felt circles or embroidered French knots on the back for a textured, spotted dinosaur.
• Matching Caterpillar Set: Pair Chomper with our Loopy Crochet Caterpillar for a complete amigurumi toy collection.
• Colour ideas: Try pastel pink and mint green for a soft nursery vibe, or bold primary colors for a retro look.
• Yarn substitutions: Any super bulky blanket yarn (like Premier Yarns Parfait Chunky or Sweet Snuggles) will work beautifully.

Common Troubleshooting & Fixes

• Problem: The neck is floppy and cannot support the head.
  Fix: You need to stuff the neck much more firmly than you think! Use the back of a crochet hook or a chopstick to pack the fiberfill tightly into the neck column before sewing the head on.
• Problem: There are visible holes where the stuffing is showing through.
  Fix: Your hook might be too large for your tension. Try sizing down your hook by 0.5mm or 1mm to keep your stitches tight and dense.
• Problem: The legs are splaying outwards instead of standing up.
  Fix: Make sure to follow the step where you turn the dinosaur upside down and sew the inner edge of each leg close to the purple belly using a few stitches of purple yarn. This pulls them inward and makes them sturdy.
• Problem: The openings for the neck or tail are off-center.
  Fix: Everyone's crochet spiral twists slightly differently. Always fold your work in half to check the alignment before completing the chain spaces, and adjust the starting point of your chains by a stitch or two if necessary.

Care Instructions

Since this plushie is made with polyester blanket yarn and safety eyes, I highly recommend spot cleaning it with a damp cloth and mild soap. If it needs a full wash, place it inside a pillowcase, wash on a delicate cycle with cold water, and let it air dry completely to keep it fluffy and safe.

Final Thoughts

Crocheting amigurumi should be a joy, not a chore! I hope this low-sew dinosaur brings a smile to your face and a fun, stress-free project to your hook. Once you finish your Chomper, don't forget to share your photos—I absolutely love seeing your color choices and creative touches!