Dahlia Crochet Cardigan

Create a stunning, lightweight layering piece with this gorgeous Dahlia Crochet Cardigan, featuring a delicate lacy drape and beautiful color transitions.

Have you ever stared at your closet, wishing for that one perfect layer?

Finding a garment that transitions smoothly between chilly mornings and warm afternoons is a real challenge. Heavy sweaters make you sweat, while flimsy cardigans offer zero style.

That is where a beautifully draped, open-stitch cardigan comes to the rescue. It provides just enough coverage to keep the breeze off your shoulders without overheating you, making it an absolute staple for spring and summer.

Today, we are diving into a design that checks all these boxes.

The Dahlia Cardigan uses a lovely lacy shell pattern that works up surprisingly fast. If you loved making my Fall Vibes Cardigan, you will find this lightweight alternative is just as satisfying to stitch.

I designed this piece using a self-striping cake yarn to let the colors do the heavy lifting. However, it looks equally stunning in a solid shade if you prefer a classic, minimalist look.

Why You'll Love This Pattern

• Delightfully Airy: The open shell stitch creates a breathable fabric that drapes beautifully over any outfit.
• Seamless Shoulders: By working the front panels directly from the back panel, you avoid bulky shoulder seams.
• Highly Customizable: Easily adjust the length of the body or sleeves to suit your personal style.

Materials You'll Need

• Yarn: Lion Brand Mandala Baby (DK weight, size 3; 100% acrylic) in the colorway Wishing Well. Alternatively, any standard DK weight yarn of similar thickness will work beautifully.
• Hook: Size G (4.25mm) for the main body panels and size F (3.75mm) for the collar and sleeve cuffs.
• Notions: Tapestry needle for weaving in ends, and stitch markers to help with seaming.
• Yardage:
  • Small: 3 cakes of Lion Brand Mandala (or approximately 1500 yards of solid-color DK yarn).
  • Medium: 4 cakes of Lion Brand Mandala (or approximately 2200 yards of solid-color DK yarn).
  • Large: 5 cakes of Lion Brand Mandala (or approximately 2200 yards of solid-color DK yarn).
  • XL / 2XL / 3XL: 6 cakes of Lion Brand Mandala (or approximately 2800 yards of solid-color DK yarn).

Gauge & Sizing

• Gauge: 3.5 shells x 8 shell rows = 4 inches using the larger G (4.25mm) hook.
• Sizes included: Small, Medium, Large, XL, 2XL, and 3XL.
• Finished measurements: Back panel length before adding the hem is approximately 21(21, 21.5, 21.5, 22, 22) inches.

Abbreviations & Stitch Instructions

• ch: Chain
• sc: Single crochet
• dc: Double crochet
• hdc: Half double crochet
• sl st: Slip stitch
• RS: Right Side of the fabric
• tch: Turning chain
• V-st: V-stitch. Work (1 dc, ch 1, 1 dc) into the designated stitch or chain space.
• Shell: Two V-stitches worked into adjacent stitches or chain spaces.

Pattern Notes

• Skill Level: Intermediate.
• This pattern is written in US crochet terms.
• The item is worked flat for the main body panels, then seamed, and the sleeves are worked in the round.
• Tension Tip: Keep your chain stitches relaxed at the start of the panels so your bottom hem does not pull inward.
• Customization Tip: If you want a longer cardigan, you can easily add more rows to the back and front panels before seaming, or add extra rows to the bottom hem at the end.

Step-by-Step Instructions

Back Panel

Using your G (4.25mm) hook, chain 94(106, 118, 124, 136, 148).

Row 1: Work 1 dc in the 5th chain from your hook. *[Skip the next 4 chains, then work a V-st in each of the next 2 chains]. Repeat from * across until you have 5 chains remaining. Skip the next 4 chains, work a V-st in the final chain, turn. — 14(16, 18, 19, 21, 23) shells + 2 V-sts.

Row 2: Ch 4 (this counts as a dc and ch-1 space here and throughout), work 1 dc in the very first dc. *(Skip the next 2 dc, then work a V-st in each of the next 2 dc). Repeat from * across until you have completed a shell on top of the final shell. Skip the next 2 dc and the next chain, then work a V-st in the next chain, turn. — 14(16, 18, 19, 21, 23) shells + 2 V-sts.

Row 3 and beyond: Repeat Row 2 until your back panel reaches a total of 42(42, 43, 43, 44, 44) shell rows. Your piece should measure roughly 21(21, 21.5, 21.5, 22, 22) inches. Do not cut your yarn; we will transition directly into the first front panel.

First Front Panel

Row 1: Ch 4, work 1 dc in the first dc. *(Skip the next 2 dc, then work a V-st in each of the next 2 dc). Repeat from * across until you have completed 6(7, 8, 8, 9, 10) shells. Skip the next 2 dc, work a V-st in the next dc. Leave the rest of the stitches unworked and turn. — 6(7, 8, 8, 9, 10) shells + 2 V-sts.

Row 2: Ch 4, work 1 dc in the first dc. *(Skip the next 2 dc, then work a V-st in each of the next 2 dc). Repeat from * across until you have completed 6(7, 8, 8, 9, 10) shells. Skip the next 2 dc and the next chain, work a V-st in the next chain, turn. — 6(7, 8, 8, 9, 10) shells + 2 V-sts.

Row 3 and beyond: Repeat Row 2 until this front panel has exactly 42(42, 43, 43, 44, 44) shell rows, matching your back panel. Fasten off your yarn. Note: Because this panel is narrower, it may stretch slightly longer than the back panel, which naturally creates a comfortable neck opening.

Second Front Panel

To ensure your colors flow beautifully, try to match the color sequence of your second panel to the first one. You can pull yarn from your cake to find the right starting shade.

Row 1:

• For sizes S/M/L: Skip 4 dc from where the first front panel ended, slip stitch into the next dc, and chain 4.
• For sizes XL/2XL/3XL: Skip 8 dc from where the first front panel ended, slip stitch into the next dc, and chain 4.
• All sizes: Work 1 dc in the same stitch where you joined. *(Skip the next 2 dc, then work a V-st in each of the next 2 dc). Repeat from * across until you have completed 6(7, 8, 8, 9, 10) shells. Skip the next 2 dc and the next chain, work a V-st in the next chain, turn. — 6(7, 8, 8, 9, 10) shells + 2 V-sts.

Row 2: Ch 4, work 1 dc in the first dc. *(Skip the next 2 dc, then work a V-st in each of the next 2 dc). Repeat from * across until you have completed 6(7, 8, 8, 9, 10) shells. Skip the next 2 dc and the next chain, work a V-st in the next chain, turn. — 6(7, 8, 8, 9, 10) shells + 2 V-sts.

Row 3 and beyond: Repeat Row 2 until you have completed 42(42, 43, 43, 44, 44) shell rows. Fasten off.

Seaming the Sides

Lay your cardigan flat and decide which side of the fabric looks best to you. This will be your Right Side (RS).

With the RS facing down, fold both front panels down over the back panel.

Align your edges carefully. To mark your armholes, count the turning chains along the outer edges (each turning chain represents one shell row).

From the shoulder fold down, count 12.5(12.5, 14.5, 14.5, 16.5, 16.5) shell rows on both the front and back layers. Place a stitch marker through both layers to mark the armpit. This leaves an armhole opening of 25(25, 29, 29, 33, 33) shell rows, which is about 7(7, 8, 8, 9, 9) inches deep.

Using a single crochet seam, join the sides from the bottom hem up to your stitch marker. Work your sc stitches directly into the legs of the double crochets or turning chains rather than the chain spaces. I suggest working 2 sc in each dc leg and 1 sc at the connection point between rows. Turn your cardigan right side out.

Sleeves (Worked in the Round)

Sleeves are worked directly into the armhole openings on the RS of your cardigan.

Round 1: Slip stitch to the armpit. Ch 4, work 1 dc in the same spot. Work 2 V-sts on top of the next turning chain (this forms a shell). *(Skip the next turning chain, work 2 V-sts on top of the next turning chain). Repeat from * until you have 2 turning chains left before the armpit. Skip those last 2 turning chains, work a V-st in the armpit, slip stitch to the 3rd chain of your starting chain. — 13(13, 15, 15, 17, 17) shells.

Round 2: Ch 4, work 1 dc in the same stitch. *(Skip the next 2 dc, work a V-st in each of the next 2 dc). Repeat from * across until you work a shell on top of the last shell. Skip the next 2 dc, work a V-st in the last dc at the armpit, slip stitch to the top of the starting chain. — 13(13, 15, 15, 17, 17) shells.

Round 3: Ch 3 (counts as a dc), work 1 dc in the same stitch. *(Skip the next 2 dc, work a V-st in each of the next 2 dc). Repeat from * across until you work a shell on top of the last shell. Skip the next 2 dc, work 2 dc in the last dc at the armpit, slip stitch to the starting chain. — 12(12, 14, 14, 16, 16) shells + 4 dc at the armpit.

Round 4: Ch 3, *(skip the next 2 dc, work a V-st in each of the next 2 dc). Repeat from * across until you work a shell on top of the last shell. Skip the next 2 dc, work 1 dc in the last stitch at the armpit, slip stitch to the starting chain. — 12(12, 14, 14, 16, 16) shells + 2 dc at the armpit.

Round 5: Ch 3, skip the next dc, work a V-st in each of the next 2 dc. *(Skip the next 2 dc, work a V-st in each of the next 2 dc). Repeat from * across until you work a shell on top of the last shell. Skip 1 dc, work 1 dc in the last stitch at the armpit, slip stitch to the starting chain. — 12(12, 14, 14, 16, 16) shells + 2 dc at the armpit.

Rounds 6-7: Repeat Round 5.

Round 8: Slip stitch into the next dc, the next chain, and the next dc. Ch 4, work 1 dc in the same stitch. Work a V-st in the next dc. *(Skip the next 2 dc, work a V-st in each of the next 2 dc). Repeat from * across until you work a shell on top of the last shell. Skip the next dc, dc2tog over the next 2 dc stitches at the armpit, slip stitch to the starting chain. Do not turn. — 12(12, 14, 14, 16, 16) shells + 1 dc at the armpit.

Round 9: Skip the next ch-1 space and slip stitch directly into the next dc. Ch 4, work 1 dc in the same stitch. Work a V-st in the next dc. *(Skip the next 2 dc, work a V-st in each of the next 2 dc). Repeat from * across until you work a shell on top of the last shell. Skip the next dc, work 1 dc in the last dc at the armpit, slip stitch to the starting chain. Do not turn. — 12(12, 14, 14, 16, 16) shells + 1 dc at the armpit.

Rounds 10-13: Repeat Round 9.

Round 14: Skip the next ch-1 space and slip stitch directly into the next dc. Ch 3, work 1 dc in the same stitch, then work 2 dc in the next dc. *(Skip the next 2 dc, work a V-st in each of the next 2 dc). Repeat from * across until you have one shell remaining. Skip the next 2 dc, work 2 dc in each of the next 2 stitches. Skip the next dc, work 1 dc in the last dc at the armpit, slip stitch to the starting chain. Do not turn. — 10(10, 12, 12, 14, 14) shells + 9 dc near the armpit.

Round 15: Slip stitch directly into the next dc. Ch 3, work 1 dc in the same stitch, then work 2 dc in the next dc. *(Skip the next 2 dc, work a V-st in each of the next 2 dc). Repeat from * across until you have one shell remaining. Skip the next 2 dc, work 2 dc in each of the next 2 stitches. Skip the next 3 dc, slip stitch to the starting chain. Do not turn. — 10(10, 12, 12, 14, 14) shells + 8 dc near the armpit.

Round 16: Slip stitch directly into the next dc. Ch 3, work 1 dc in the same stitch, then work 2 dc in the next dc. *(Skip the next 2 dc, work a V-st in each of the next 2 dc). Repeat from * across until you have one shell remaining. Skip the next 2 dc, work 2 dc in each of the next 2 stitches. Skip the next 2 dc, slip stitch to the starting chain. Do not turn. — 10(10, 12, 12, 14, 14) shells + 8 dc near the armpit.

Round 17: Repeat Round 16.

Rounds 18-21 (Sizes S/M only): Repeat Round 17.

Rounds 18-22 (Sizes L/XL only): Repeat Round 17.

Rounds 18-23 (Sizes 2XL/3XL only): Repeat Round 17.

Round 22(22, 23, 23, 24, 24): Ch 1 (counts as a sc), work 1 sc in each stitch and chain space around, slip stitch to the starting chain. Do not turn. Fasten off.

Sleeve Cuffs

Switch to your smaller F (3.75mm) hook.

Round 1: Using cream yarn, slip stitch right before your fastening-off point. Ch 2 (counts as a hdc), work 1 hdc in each stitch around, slip stitch to the starting chain. Do not turn.

Rounds 2-2(2, 3, 3, 3, 3): Repeat Round 1 in cream, then fasten off.

Round 3(3, 4, 4, 4, 4): Join beige yarn with a slip stitch right before your fastening-off point. Ch 1 (does not count as a stitch), work 1 sc in the same stitch, ch 1, skip 1 stitch. *(Work 1 sc in the next stitch, ch 1, skip 1 stitch). Repeat from * around. After skipping the final stitch, slip stitch to the first sc. Do not turn.

Round 4(4, 5, 5, 5, 5): *(Work [1 sc, ch 2, 1 sc] in the next ch-1 space, skip the next sc). Repeat from * around, slip stitch to the first sc. Fasten off. Repeat this entire sleeve process for your second sleeve, matching the color sequence. To learn more about seamless transitions, check out my guide on how to seamlessly change colors when crocheting in the round.

Adding to the Hem

We will now add a few more shell rows to the bottom of your cardigan to tie the colors together.

Row 1: Using your cream yarn and the larger G (4.25mm) hook, slip stitch to the front corner of your panel on the RS. Ch 4, work 1 dc in the same stitch. *(Skip the next 2 dc, work a V-st in each of the next 2 dc). Repeat from * across until you work a shell on top of the last shell on the front panel. Work 1 V-st in the stitch right before the side seam, and 1 V-st in the stitch right after the side seam. Continue along the bottom of the back panel (working into the legs of the dc stitches). Work a V-st in the middle 2 dc of each shell across the back panel. When you reach the second side seam, work 1 V-st right before the seam and 1 V-st right after. *(Skip the next 2 dc, work a V-st in each of the next 2 dc). Repeat from * across to the last shell of the front panel. Skip the next 2 dc, work a V-st in the final corner stitch, turn. — 28(32, 36, 37, 41, 45) shells + 2 V-sts.

Row 2: Ch 4, work 1 dc in the first dc. *(Skip the next 2 dc, work a V-st in each of the next 2 dc). Repeat from * across until you work a shell on top of the last shell. Skip the next 2 dc and the next chain, work a V-st in the next chain, turn. — 28(32, 36, 37, 41, 45) shells + 2 V-sts.

Rows 3-6(6, 7, 7, 8, 8): Repeat Row 2 in cream. Join beige yarn.

Next 1(1, 1, 1, 2, 2) Rows: Repeat Row 2 in beige. Fasten off.

Collar and Edging

Switch back to your smaller F (3.75mm) hook.

Row 1: Using cream yarn, slip stitch to the front corner on the RS. Ch 1, work 1 sc in the corner, then work sc stitches evenly up the front panel, around the back of the neck, and down the opposite front panel to the other corner, turn. (Work 2 sc into the leg of each turning chain and 1 sc at the junction between rows).

Row 2: Ch 2 (does not count as a stitch), work 1 hdc in the same stitch and in each stitch across. Fasten off cream.

Row 3: With the wrong side (inside) of the cardigan facing you, join beige yarn with a slip stitch in the corner. Ch 1, work 1 sc in the same stitch. *(Ch 1, skip 1 stitch, work 1 sc in the next stitch). Repeat from * across, turn.

Row 4: *([1 sc, ch 2, 1 sc] in the next ch-1 space, skip the next sc). Repeat from * across to the last stitch, slip stitch in the final sc. Fasten off and weave in all your loose ends!

Easy Variations & Custom Ideas

• Longer Silhouette: If you prefer a duster-style look, simply repeat Row 2 of the back and front panels to add length before seaming.
• Solid Color Classic: Skip the self-striping yarn and use a single solid color of DK yarn to emphasize the delicate lace texture.
• Bell Sleeve Drama: For a wider sleeve opening, skip the decrease rounds on the sleeves and let them flare out naturally, similar to my Sloane Bell Sleeve Cardigan.
• Button Closure: Add a simple button loop to the collar and sew on a vintage wooden button for a cozy, secure closure, much like the style of my Clove Button Cowl.
• Contrasting Borders: Use a highly contrasting color for the collar and cuffs to make the lacy edges pop.
• Colour ideas: Try soft pastel gradients for a spring vibe, or rich jewel tones for a transitional autumn piece.
• Yarn substitutions: Any standard category 3 light worsted or DK weight yarn will work, such as Stylecraft Special DK or Paintbox Yarns Simply DK.

Common Troubleshooting & Fixes

• Problem: The bottom edge of my back panel is curving or pulling inward.
  Fix: Your starting chain was likely too tight. Try using a hook one size larger just for your initial chain, then switch back to the G (4.25mm) hook for Row 1.
• Problem: The front panels are noticeably longer than the back panel before seaming.
  Fix: Because the front panels are narrower, they naturally stretch more under their own weight. This is completely normal and actually helps form the neck depression at the back. Once seamed, they will balance out.
• Problem: My sleeves feel too tight around the upper arm.
  Fix: You may need to adjust your armhole depth. Move your stitch markers down by one or two shell rows to create a wider opening before seaming the sides.
• Problem: The color transitions look mismatched on the front panels.
  Fix: When starting your second front panel, pull yarn from the cake until you find the color that matches the start of your first front panel. This keeps your cardigan looking symmetrical.

Care Instructions

To keep your lacy stitches looking their best, hand wash your cardigan in cool water with a mild wool wash. Lay it flat on a clean towel to dry. Avoid hanging it while wet, as the weight of the water will stretch out the delicate lace.

Final Thoughts

There is nothing quite like the feeling of wearing a garment you stitched with your own two hands. The Dahlia Cardigan is the perfect blend of relaxing repetitive stitches and gorgeous, rewarding results. I cannot wait to see your beautiful color choices, so please share your progress and happy crocheting!