Fall Vibes Cardigan

Wrap yourself in cozy texture with this gorgeous three-piece crochet cardigan, featuring a simple one-row repeat and stunning self-striping yarn.

There is nothing quite like sliding into a handmade sweater on a crisp autumn morning.

It is pure bliss.

Yet, so many garment patterns leave us feeling completely overwhelmed by complicated shaping and endless counting. I have been there, and I know how frustrating that can be.

That is why I designed this textured cardigan to be completely stress-free.

By working the body as a single flat piece and adding two basic sleeves, you can skip the headache of complex construction entirely. The rich, bumpy texture looks incredibly intricate, but it actually relies on a mindless one-row repeat.

It is the perfect companion for a cozy Netflix binge.

For my version, I chose a beautiful self-striping cake that did all the hard colorwork for me. It brought instant joy to my hook.

Whether you are a garment beginner or an experienced maker looking for a relaxing project, this design will keep you cozy from the very first stitch.

Why You'll Love This Pattern

• Minimal Seaming: The main body is worked in one seamless piece, meaning you only have to join the shoulders and attach the sleeves.
• Mindless Texture: A simple one-row repeat creates a thick, squishy fabric without requiring constant attention to a chart.
• Stunning Color Transitions: Using self-striping yarn means you get gorgeous color shifts without weaving in dozens of pesky ends.

Materials You'll Need

• Yarn: Lion Brand Mandala (DK weight, Size 3, 100% Acrylic) in the colorway Centaur for the main body and sleeves; Premier Basix DK in Taupe for the contrasting collar, hem, and cuffs.
• Hook: Size 7 (4.5mm) crochet hook (or size needed to obtain gauge).
• Notions: Stitch markers (or safety pins), tapestry needle for weaving in ends, and a tape measure.
• Yardage:
  • Body & Sleeves (Mandala): 5 skeins (approx. 2800 yards) for S/M; 6 skeins (approx. 3250 yards) for L/XL; 6 skeins (approx. 3500 yards) for 2XL/3XL.
  • Hem, Collar, & Cuffs (Premier Basix): 1 skein (approx. 300 yards) for S, M, and L; 2 skeins (approx. 500 yards) for XL, 2XL, and 3XL.

Gauge & Sizing

• Gauge: 4 stitch pattern shells and 9 rows = 4 inches (10 cm) using the main stitch pattern.
• Sizes included: S (M, L, XL) (2XL, 3XL).
• Finished measurements:
  • To fit bust sizes: 34 (38, 42, 46) (50, 54) inches.
  • Finished width (back panel): 19 (21, 23, 25) (27, 29) inches.
  • Armhole depth: 7 (7, 8, 8) (9, 9) inches.
  • Sleeve length (before joining): 16.5 inches for S/M; 17 inches for L, XL, 2XL, and 3XL.
  • Approximate length when worn: 33 (33, 33, 34) (34, 34) inches (note: the fabric naturally stretches 4 to 5 inches in length when worn).

Abbreviations & Stitch Instructions

• st(sts): Stitch (stitches)
• ch: Chain
• sc: Single crochet
• dc: Double crochet
• sl st: Slip stitch
• YO: Yarn over
• RS: Right side of the fabric
• WS: Wrong side of the fabric
• fpdc (Front Post Double Crochet): Yarn over, insert hook from front to back to front around the post of the indicated stitch, pull up a loop, (yarn over, pull through 2 loops) twice. If you want to master post stitches, see our guide on the Knit Look Crochet Hat Pattern.
• V-st (V-Stitch): Work (dc, ch 1, dc) all into the same designated chain-1 space.
• hhdc (Herringbone Half Double Crochet): Yarn over, insert hook into the next stitch, pull up a loop and draw it directly through the first loop on your hook (2 loops remain on hook), yarn over, and pull through both remaining loops.
• hhdc2tog (Herringbone Half Double Crochet Two Together): Yarn over, insert hook into the next stitch, pull up a loop and draw it through the first loop on your hook. Keep these 2 loops on your hook. Yarn over, insert hook into the following stitch, pull up a loop and draw it through the first loop on your hook. Yarn over and pull through all 3 loops on your hook.
• dc2tog (Double Crochet Two Together): Yarn over, insert hook into the first stitch, pull up a loop, yarn over, pull through 2 loops (2 loops left on hook). Yarn over, insert hook into the next stitch, pull up a loop, yarn over, pull through 2 loops. Yarn over and pull through all 3 loops on your hook.
• sc2tog (Single Crochet Two Together): Insert hook into the first stitch, pull up a loop, insert hook into the next stitch, pull up a loop, yarn over and pull through all 3 loops on your hook.

Pattern Notes

• Skill Level: Advanced Beginner.
• This pattern is written in US crochet terms.
• The item is worked flat in three main pieces (one body panel and two sleeves) and then seamed together.
• Tension Tip: This stitch pattern is highly elastic. To get an accurate measurement, fold your work in half, hold it from the center, give it a gentle shake, and lay it flat on a table before measuring with your tape.
• Customization Tip: You can easily adjust the length of your cardigan by adding or subtracting rows on the main body before you split the work for the armholes.

Step-by-Step Instructions

Practice Swatch

To practice the stitch and check your gauge, chain a multiple of 5 + 3 (try starting with 38 chains).

Row 1: Work 2 dc in the 5th chain from your hook (the skipped chains count as your first dc). Chain 1, then work 2 dc in the next chain. *Skip the next 3 chains, work 2 dc in the next chain, chain 1, work 2 dc in the next chain. Repeat from * across until 2 chains remain. Skip 1 chain, then work 1 dc in the very last chain. Turn. (You will have 7 repeats plus 2 dc).

Row 2: Chain 3 (counts as your first dc), skip the next dc. *Work 1 fpdc around the next dc, work a V-st in the next chain-1 space, work 1 fpdc around the next dc, skip the next 2 dc. Repeat from * until only 1 dc and your turning chain remain. Skip that last dc, then work 1 dc into the top of the turning chain. Turn. (7 shells plus 2 dc).

Repeat Row 2 until your swatch is 7 inches tall. Measure the center to ensure 4 shells and 9 rows equal 4 inches. Adjust your hook size if necessary.

Main Body Panel

Note: Remember to set aside two matching yarn cakes specifically for your sleeves before you begin the body. Label them so they don't get mixed up!

Using your main body yarn, chain 188 (208, 228, 248) (268, 288).

Row 1 (RS): Work 2 dc in the 5th chain from your hook. Chain 1, then work 2 dc in the next chain. *Skip the next 3 chains, work 2 dc in the next chain, chain 1, work 2 dc in the next chain. Repeat from * across until 2 chains remain. Skip 1 chain, work 1 dc in the last chain. Place a stitch marker on this side to mark the Right Side (RS). Turn. [37 (41, 45, 49) (53, 57) repeats + 2 dc]

Row 2: Chain 3 (counts as your first dc), skip the next dc. *Work 1 fpdc around the next dc, work a V-st in the next chain-1 space, work 1 fpdc around the next dc, skip the next 2 dc. Repeat from * until only 1 dc and your turning chain remain. Skip that last dc, then work 1 dc into the top of the turning chain. Turn. [37 (41, 45, 49) (53, 57) shells + 2 dc]

Tip: Always work your final stitch of each row into the top of the beginning chain-2 (not the chain-3) to keep your side edges perfectly straight.

Repeat Row 2 until your piece measures 19.5 (19.5, 18.5, 19.5) (18.5, 18.5) inches from the bottom. This will be approximately 44 (44, 42, 44) (42, 42) rows. Do not fasten off yet if you are using the same cake, but prepare to divide your work.

First Front Panel

We will now divide the body into three sections: two front panels and one back panel.

Using one of the yarn cakes you set aside for the sleeves (to ensure matching colors), slip stitch to the point where you just finished the main body.

Row 1: Chain 2 (counts as your first dc), skip the next dc. *Work 1 fpdc around the next dc, work a V-st in the next chain-1 space, work 1 fpdc around the next dc, skip the next 2 dc. Repeat from * until you have completed 9 (10, 11, 12) (13, 14) shells. Skip the next dc (which is pushed behind), then work 1 dc in the next dc. Leave the remaining stitches of the row unworked. Turn. [9 (10, 11, 12) (13, 14) shells + 2 dc]

Row 2: Chain 3 (counts as your first dc), skip the next dc. *Work 1 fpdc around the next dc, work a V-st in the next chain-1 space, work 1 fpdc around the next dc, skip the next 2 dc. Repeat from * until only 1 dc and your turning chain remain. Skip that last dc, then work 1 dc into the top of the turning chain. Turn. [9 (10, 11, 12) (13, 14) shells + 2 dc]

Repeat Row 2 until your front panel measures 7 (7, 8, 8) (9, 9) inches tall (approximately 14 (14, 16, 16) (18, 18) rows). Fasten off.

Second Front Panel

To keep your cardigan symmetrical, use your second sleeve cake to make this panel, matching the color sequence of the first front panel.

Skip 18 (20, 22, 24) (26, 28) shells plus 3 dc from the inner edge of your first front panel. Slip stitch into the next dc (the last dc of that shell).

Row 1: Chain 2 (counts as a dc), skip the next dc. *Work 1 fpdc around the next dc, work a V-st in the next chain-1 space, work 1 fpdc around the next dc, skip the next 2 dc. Repeat from * until only 1 dc and your turning chain remain. Skip that last dc, then work 1 dc into the top of the turning chain. Turn. [9 (10, 11, 12) (13, 14) shells + 2 dc]

Row 2: Chain 3 (counts as your first dc), skip the next dc. *Work 1 fpdc around the next dc, work a V-st in the next chain-1 space, work 1 fpdc around the next dc, skip the next 2 dc. Repeat from * until only 1 dc and your turning chain remain. Skip that last dc, then work 1 dc into the top of the turning chain. Turn. [9 (10, 11, 12) (13, 14) shells + 2 dc]

Repeat Row 2 until this panel is 7 (7, 8, 8) (9, 9) inches tall (matching the row count of your first front panel). Fasten off.

Back Panel

Now, go back to your main body yarn cakes to work the center back section.

With the RS facing you, slip stitch to the first dc stitch immediately following your first front panel.

Row 1: Chain 2 (counts as a dc), work a V-st in the next chain-1 space, work 1 fpdc around the next dc, skip the next 2 dc. *Work 1 fpdc around the next dc, work a V-st in the next chain-1 space, work 1 fpdc around the next dc, skip the next 2 dc. Repeat from * until you work a V-st in the last chain-1 space of this section, then work 1 dc in the next dc. Turn. [19 (21, 23, 25) (27, 29) shells + 2 dc]

Row 2: Chain 3 (counts as your first dc). *Work 1 fpdc around the next dc, work a V-st in the next chain-1 space, work 1 fpdc around the next dc, skip the next 2 dc. Repeat from * until you work a V-st in the last chain-1 space, work 1 fpdc in the next stitch, then work 1 dc in the top of the beginning chain-2. Turn. [19 (21, 23, 25) (27, 29) shells + 2 dc]

Row 3: Chain 3 (counts as your first dc), skip the next dc. *Work 1 fpdc around the next dc, work a V-st in the next chain-1 space, work 1 fpdc around the next dc, skip the next 2 dc. Repeat from * until only 1 dc and your turning chain remain. Skip that last dc, then work 1 dc into the top of the turning chain. Turn. [19 (21, 23, 25) (27, 29) shells + 2 dc]

Repeat Row 3 until your back panel is 7 (7, 8, 8) (9, 9) inches tall (matching the row count of your front panels). Fasten off.

Seaming the Shoulders

With the Right Side (RS) facing up, fold your front panels down over the back panel. Align the outer edges of the shoulders.

Using your tapestry needle or hook, join the shoulders with a single crochet seam. To keep the shoulders from stretching out, insert your hook about a quarter-inch below the top edge rather than directly into the loops. Your finished shoulder seam should measure approximately 9 (10, 11, 12) (13, 14) inches wide.

Bottom Hem

Switch to your contrasting beige yarn.

Row 1 (RS): Slip stitch to the first stitch at the bottom corner of your cardigan. Work 1 sc in that same stitch, then evenly distribute single crochet stitches across the raw bottom edge, working into the posts of the stitches. Turn.

Row 2: Chain 1 (does not count as a stitch), work 1 hhdc in the first stitch. *Work 1 hhdc in each of the next 3 stitches, then work a hhdc2tog across the next 2 stitches. Repeat from * across to the end. (If your row ends on a decrease, simply work a regular hhdc instead). Turn.

Row 3: Chain 1, work 1 hhdc in the first stitch, then work 1 hhdc in every stitch across. Turn.

Rows 4-5: Repeat Row 3. Fasten off at the end of Row 5.

Front Collar

Using your contrasting beige yarn, work on the RS of the cardigan.

Row 1: Slip stitch to the bottom-left corner of the front opening. Work 6 sc across the edge of the hem. Continue up the front edge, working 2 sc into each row-end space until you reach the left shoulder seam. Work 1 sc in the seam, then work 1 sc in each stitch and chain-1 space across the back neck. Work 1 sc in the right shoulder seam, then work 2 sc in each row-end space down the right front edge. Finally, work 6 sc across the right hem edge. Turn.

Row 2: Chain 1 (does not count as a stitch), work 1 hhdc in the first stitch, then work 1 hhdc in each stitch across to the end. Turn.

Row 3: Chain 1, work 1 hhdc in the first stitch, then 1 hhdc in the next 2 stitches. *Work a hhdc2tog across the next 2 stitches, then work 1 hhdc in each of the next 2 stitches. Repeat from * 8 more times. Work 1 hhdc in each stitch across until 37 stitches remain. *Work a hhdc2tog across the next 2 stitches, then work 1 hhdc in each of the next 2 stitches. Repeat from * to the last stitch, then work 1 hhdc in the last stitch. Turn.

Row 4: Chain 1, work 1 hhdc in the first stitch, then work 1 hhdc in each stitch across to the end. Turn.

Row 5: Repeat Row 4. Fasten off.

Sleeves (Make Two)

Using your sleeve yarn cakes, chain 67 (67, 77, 77) (87, 87).

Row 1: Work 1 sc in the second chain from your hook and in each chain across. Turn. [66 (66, 76, 76) (86, 86) sc]

Row 2: Chain 3 (counts as first dc), skip the first stitch, work 2 dc in the next stitch, chain 1, work 2 dc in the same stitch. *Skip the next 3 stitches, work 2 dc in the next stitch, chain 1, work 2 dc in the same stitch. Repeat from * until 2 stitches remain. Skip the next stitch, then work 1 dc in the last stitch. Place a marker on this side to indicate the RS. Turn. [13 (13, 15, 15) (17, 17) repeats + 2 dc]

Row 3: Chain 3 (counts as first dc), skip the next dc. *Work 1 fpdc around the next dc, work a V-st in the next chain-1 space, work 1 fpdc around the next dc, skip the next 2 dc. Repeat from * until only 1 dc and your turning chain remain. Skip that last dc, then work 1 dc into the top of the turning chain. Turn. [13 (13, 15, 15) (17, 17) shells + 2 dc]

Row 4: Repeat Row 3.

Size S/M Only

Row 5: Chain 3 (counts as first dc), skip the next dc, work 1 fpdc around the next dc, work 1 dc in the next chain-1 space, work 1 fpdc around the next dc, skip the next 2 dc. *Work 1 fpdc around the next dc, work a V-st in the next chain-1 space, work 1 fpdc around the next dc, skip the next 2 dc. Repeat from * until only 1 shell remains. Skip the next 2 dc, work 1 fpdc around the next dc, work 1 dc in the next chain-1 space, work 1 fpdc around the next dc, skip the next dc, work 1 dc into the top of the turning chain. Turn. [11 shells + 8 dc (4 on each side)]

Row 6: Chain 3 (counts as first dc), work 1 fpdc around the next dc, work 1 dc in the next dc, work 1 fpdc around the next dc, skip the next dc. *Work 1 fpdc around the next dc, work a V-st in the next chain-1 space, work 1 fpdc around the next dc, skip the next 2 dc. Repeat from * until 4 dc and your turning chain remain. Skip the next dc (which is pushed behind), work 1 fpdc around the next dc, work 1 dc in the next dc, work 1 fpdc around the next dc, work 1 dc into the top of the turning chain. Turn. [11 shells + 8 dc]

Row 7: Chain 3 (counts as first dc), work 1 fpdc around the next dc, skip the next dc, work 1 fpdc around the next dc, skip the next dc. *Work 1 fpdc around the next dc, work a V-st in the next chain-1 space, work 1 fpdc around the next dc, skip the next 2 dc. Repeat from * until 4 dc and your turning chain remain. Skip the next dc, work 1 fpdc around the next dc, skip the next dc, work 1 fpdc around the next dc, work 1 dc into the top of the turning chain. Turn. [11 shells + 6 dc (3 on each side)]

Rows 8-10: Chain 3, work 1 fpdc around each of the next 2 dc, skip the next dc. *Work 1 fpdc around the next dc, work a V-st in the next chain-1 space, work 1 fpdc around the next dc, skip the next 2 dc. Repeat from * until 3 dc and your turning chain remain. Skip the next dc, work 1 fpdc around each of the next 2 dc, work 1 dc into the top of the turning chain. Turn. [11 shells + 6 dc]

Row 11: Chain 3, work a dc2tog across the next 2 stitches, skip the next dc. *Work 1 fpdc around the next dc, work a V-st in the next chain-1 space, work 1 fpdc around the next dc, skip the next 2 dc. Repeat from * until 3 dc and your turning chain remain. Skip the next dc, work a dc2tog across the next 2 stitches, work 1 dc into the top of the turning chain. Turn. [11 shells + 2 dc + 2 dc2tog]

Row 12: Chain 3, work 1 dc in the next dc2tog, skip the next dc. *Work 1 fpdc around the next dc, work a V-st in the next chain-1 space, work 1 fpdc around the next dc, skip the next 2 dc. Repeat from * until 1 dc, 1 dc2tog, and your turning chain remain. Skip the next dc, work 1 dc in the next dc2tog, work 1 dc into the top of the turning chain. Turn. [11 shells + 4 dc]

Rows 13-15: Chain 3, work 1 dc in the next dc, skip the next dc. *Work 1 fpdc around the next dc, work a V-st in the next chain-1 space, work 1 fpdc around the next dc, skip the next 2 dc. Repeat from * until 2 dc and your turning chain remain. Skip the next dc, work 1 dc in the next dc, work 1 dc into the top of the turning chain. Turn. [11 shells + 4 dc]

Row 16: Chain 1 (does not count as a stitch), work a dc2tog across the first stitch and the next dc, skip the next dc. *Work 1 fpdc around the next dc, work a V-st in the next chain-1 space, work 1 fpdc around the next dc, skip the next 2 dc. Repeat from * until 2 dc and your turning chain remain. Skip the next dc, work a dc2tog across the next dc and the top of the turning chain. Turn. [11 shells + 2 dc2tog]

Row 17: Chain 3 (counts as a dc), skip the next dc. *Work 1 fpdc around the next dc, work a V-st in the next chain-1 space, work 1 fpdc around the next dc, skip the next 2 dc. Repeat from * until only 1 dc and your dc2tog remain. Skip the next dc, work 1 dc into the top of the dc2tog. Turn. [11 shells + 2 dc]

Row 18: Chain 3 (counts as a dc), skip the next dc. *Work 1 fpdc around the next dc, work a V-st in the next chain-1 space, work 1 fpdc around the next dc, skip the next 2 dc. Repeat from * until only 1 dc and your turning chain remain. Skip the next dc, work 1 dc into the top of the turning chain. Turn. [11 shells + 2 dc]

Repeat Row 18 until your sleeve measures 15.5 inches (about 36 shell rows total). Fasten off and proceed to the Cuff section.

Size L/XL Only

Row 5: Repeat Row 3. [13 shells + 2 dc]

Row 6: Chain 3 (counts as first dc), skip the next dc, work 1 fpdc around the next dc, work 1 dc in the next chain-1 space, work 1 fpdc around the next dc, skip the next 2 dc. *Work 1 fpdc around the next dc, work a V-st in the next chain-1 space, work 1 fpdc around the next dc, skip the next 2 dc. Repeat from * until only 1 shell remains. Skip the next 2 dc, work 1 fpdc around the next dc, work 1 dc in the next chain-1 space, work 1 fpdc around the next dc, skip the next dc, work 1 dc into the top of the turning chain. Turn. [11 shells + 8 dc (4 on each side)]

Row 7: Chain 3 (counts as first dc), work 1 fpdc around the next dc, work 1 dc in the next dc, work 1 fpdc around the next dc, skip the next dc. *Work 1 fpdc around the next dc, work a V-st in the next chain-1 space, work 1 fpdc around the next dc, skip the next 2 dc. Repeat from * until 4 dc and your turning chain remain. Skip the next dc (which is pushed behind), work 1 fpdc around the next dc, work 1 dc in the next dc, work 1 fpdc around the next dc, work 1 dc into the top of the turning chain. Turn. [11 shells + 8 dc]

Row 8: Chain 3 (counts as first dc), work 1 fpdc around the next dc, skip the next dc, work 1 fpdc around the next dc, skip the next dc. *Work 1 fpdc around the next dc, work a V-st in the next chain-1 space, work 1 fpdc around the next dc, skip the next 2 dc. Repeat from * until 4 dc and your turning chain remain. Skip the next dc, work 1 fpdc around the next dc, skip the next dc, work 1 fpdc around the next dc, work 1 dc into the top of the turning chain. Turn. [11 shells + 6 dc (3 on each side)]

Rows 9-11: Chain 3, work 1 fpdc around each of the next 2 dc, skip the next dc. *Work 1 fpdc around the next dc, work a V-st in the next chain-1 space, work 1 fpdc around the next dc, skip the next 2 dc. Repeat from * until 3 dc and your turning chain remain. Skip the next dc, work 1 fpdc around each of the next 2 dc, work 1 dc into the top of the turning chain. Turn. [11 shells + 6 dc]

Repeat Row 11 until your sleeve measures 16 inches (about 37 shell rows total). Fasten off and proceed to the Cuff section.

Size 2XL/3XL Only

Row 5: Repeat Row 3. [15 shells + 2 dc]

Row 6: Chain 3 (counts as first dc), skip the next dc, work 1 fpdc around the next dc, work 1 dc in the next chain-1 space, work 1 fpdc around the next dc, skip the next 2 dc. *Work 1 fpdc around the next dc, work a V-st in the next chain-1 space, work 1 fpdc around the next dc, skip the next 2 dc. Repeat from * until only 1 shell remains. Skip the next 2 dc, work 1 fpdc around the next dc, work 1 dc in the next chain-1 space, work 1 fpdc around the next dc, skip the next dc, work 1 dc into the top of the turning chain. Turn. [13 shells + 8 dc (4 on each side)]

Row 7: Chain 3 (counts as first dc), work 1 fpdc around the next dc, work 1 dc in the next dc, work 1 fpdc around the next dc, skip the next dc. *Work 1 fpdc around the next dc, work a V-st in the next chain-1 space, work 1 fpdc around the next dc, skip the next 2 dc. Repeat from * until 4 dc and your turning chain remain. Skip the next dc (which is pushed behind), work 1 fpdc around the next dc, work 1 dc in the next dc, work 1 fpdc around the next dc, work 1 dc into the top of the turning chain. Turn. [13 shells + 8 dc]

Row 8: Chain 3 (counts as first dc), work 1 fpdc around the next dc, skip the next dc, work 1 fpdc around the next dc, skip the next dc. *Work 1 fpdc around the next dc, work a V-st in the next chain-1 space, work 1 fpdc around the next dc, skip the next 2 dc. Repeat from * until 4 dc and your turning chain remain. Skip the next dc, work 1 fpdc around the next dc, skip the next dc, work 1 fpdc around the next dc, work 1 dc into the top of the turning chain. Turn. [13 shells + 6 dc (3 on each side)]

Rows 9-11: Chain 3, work 1 fpdc around each of the next 2 dc, skip the next dc. *Work 1 fpdc around the next dc, work a V-st in the next chain-1 space, work 1 fpdc around the next dc, skip the next 2 dc. Repeat from * until 3 dc and your turning chain remain. Skip the next dc, work 1 fpdc around each of the next 2 dc, work 1 dc into the top of the turning chain. Turn. [13 shells + 6 dc]

Row 12: Chain 3, work a dc2tog across the next 2 stitches, skip the next dc. *Work 1 fpdc around the next dc, work a V-st in the next chain-1 space, work 1 fpdc around the next dc, skip the next 2 dc. Repeat from * until 3 dc and your turning chain remain. Skip the next dc, work a dc2tog across the next 2 stitches, work 1 dc into the top of the turning chain. Turn. [13 shells + 2 dc + 2 dc2tog]

Row 13: Chain 3, work 1 dc in the next dc2tog, skip the next dc. *Work 1 fpdc around the next dc, work a V-st in the next chain-1 space, work 1 fpdc around the next dc, skip the next 2 dc. Repeat from * until 1 dc, 1 dc2tog, and your turning chain remain. Skip the next dc, work 1 dc in the next dc2tog, work 1 dc into the top of the turning chain. Turn. [13 shells + 4 dc]

Rows 14-16: Chain 3, work 1 dc in the next dc, skip the next dc. *Work 1 fpdc around the next dc, work a V-st in the next chain-1 space, work 1 fpdc around the next dc, skip the next 2 dc. Repeat from * until 2 dc and your turning chain remain. Skip the next dc, work 1 dc in the next dc, work 1 dc into the top of the turning chain. Turn. [13 shells + 4 dc]

Row 17: Chain 1 (does not count as a stitch), work a dc2tog across the first stitch and the next dc, skip the next dc. *Work 1 fpdc around the next dc, work a V-st in the next chain-1 space, work 1 fpdc around the next dc, skip the next 2 dc. Repeat from * until 2 dc and your turning chain remain. Skip the next dc, work a dc2tog across the next dc and the top of the turning chain. Turn. [13 shells + 2 dc2tog]

Row 18: Chain 3 (counts as a dc), skip the next dc. *Work 1 fpdc around the next dc, work a V-st in the next chain-1 space, work 1 fpdc around the next dc, skip the next 2 dc. Repeat from * until only 1 dc and your dc2tog remain. Skip the next dc, work 1 dc into the top of the dc2tog. Turn. [13 shells + 2 dc]

Row 19: Chain 3 (counts as a dc), skip the next dc. *Work 1 fpdc around the next dc, work a V-st in the next chain-1 space, work 1 fpdc around the next dc, skip the next 2 dc. Repeat from * until only 1 dc and your turning chain remain. Skip the next dc, work 1 dc into the top of the turning chain. Turn. [13 shells + 2 dc]

The sleeve should measure approximately 16 inches long. If it is too short, repeat Row 19 once more. Fasten off and proceed to the Cuff section.

Sleeve Cuffs (All Sizes)

Size S/M Cuff:

Row 1 (RS): Using your contrasting beige yarn, slip stitch to the first stitch of the sleeve edge. Work 1 sc in that same stitch, 1 sc in the next dc. *Work a sc2tog across the next 2 dc (on either side of the chain-1 space), then work 1 sc in each of the next 2 dc. Repeat from * across until you work a final sc into the top of the turning chain. Turn. [35 sts]

Row 2: Chain 1 (does not count as a stitch), work 1 hhdc in the first stitch and in each stitch across to the end. Turn. [35 sts]

Fasten off, leaving a long tail for seaming.

Size L/XL Cuff:

Row 1 (RS): Using your contrasting beige yarn, slip stitch to the first stitch of the sleeve edge. Work 1 sc in that same stitch, then work 1 sc in each of the next 3 dc. *Work a sc2tog across the next 2 dc (on either side of the chain-1 space), then work 1 sc in each of the next 2 dc. Repeat from * until only 1 dc and the turning chain remain. Work 1 sc in the next dc and 1 sc in the top of the turning chain. Turn. [39 sts]

Row 2: Chain 1 (does not count as a stitch), work 1 hhdc in the first stitch and in each stitch across to the end. Turn. [39 sts]

Fasten off, leaving a long tail for seaming.

Size 2XL/3XL Cuff:

Row 1 (RS): Using your contrasting beige yarn, slip stitch to the first stitch of the sleeve edge. Work 1 sc in that same stitch, 1 sc in the next dc. *Work a sc2tog across the next 2 dc (on either side of the chain-1 space), then work 1 sc in each of the next 2 dc. Repeat from * across until you work a final sc into the top of the turning chain. Turn. [41 sts]

Row 2: Chain 1 (does not count as a stitch), work 1 hhdc in the first stitch and in each stitch across to the end. Turn. [41 sts]

Fasten off, leaving a long tail for seaming.

Assembly & Finishing

Fold each sleeve in half lengthwise with the Wrong Side (WS) facing out. Using your yarn tail, slip stitch the long edges together to form a tube. Turn the sleeves right side out.

Keep your cardigan body turned wrong side out. Insert the right-side-out sleeve into the armhole opening. Align the underarm seam of the sleeve with the bottom of the armhole slit.

Using your main body yarn, join the sleeve to the armhole with a single crochet seam. Make sure to insert your hook about a quarter-inch into the fabric rather than right on the edge. This extra depth ensures that the seam is strong enough to support the weight of the sleeve.

Weave in all remaining loose ends securely.

Easy Variations & Custom Ideas

• Solid Color Classic: If self-striping yarn isn't your style, try making the entire cardigan in a solid neutral shade. It highlights the gorgeous texture beautifully, much like our Sloane Bell Sleeve Cardigan.
• Adjusting the Length: To make a cropped version, simply work fewer rows on the main body before dividing for the armholes. For a duster-length look, keep repeating the body rows until it reaches your desired length.
• Contrasting Trim Options: Instead of a neutral beige, use a bold, contrasting color for the cuffs, hem, and collar to create a modern color-blocked look.
• Add Pockets: Crochet two simple textured squares using the main stitch pattern and sew them onto the front panels for cozy hands.
• Button Closure: Add a few wooden buttons along the collar edge. The natural gaps in the stitch pattern can easily double as buttonholes!
• Colour ideas: Warm autumnal tones like mustard, rust, forest green, or deep plum work beautifully for this design.
• Yarn substitutions: Any standard DK weight (Size 3) yarn with a similar drape will work. Acrylic blends or cotton-acrylic mixes are excellent choices.

Common Troubleshooting & Fixes

• Problem: My cardigan is turning out much wider or narrower than the measurements.
  Fix: Your gauge is likely off. If it is too wide, switch to a smaller hook; if it is too narrow, try a larger hook. Always make a gauge swatch first!
• Problem: The edges of my front panels are looking wavy or uneven.
  Fix: Make sure you are working your very last stitch of each row into the top of the beginning chain-2, rather than the chain-3. This keeps the edges straight.
• Problem: The sleeves feel too heavy and are pulling down on the shoulders.
  Fix: When seaming the shoulders and attaching the sleeves, do not work into the very edge loops. Insert your hook a quarter-inch deep into the fabric to create a stronger, more supportive seam.
• Problem: The color transitions on my two front panels do not match.
  Fix: Pull yarn from the center of your second sleeve cake until you find the color that matches the starting point of your first front panel before you begin crocheting.

Care Instructions

To keep your cardigan looking fresh and cozy, hand wash it in cool water with a mild wool wash. Lay it flat on a clean towel to dry. Avoid hanging your cardigan to dry, as the heavy wet fabric will stretch out of shape.

Final Thoughts

There is nothing quite like the pride of wearing a cozy cardigan you made with your own two hands. I hope this pattern brings you hours of relaxing stitching and a finished piece you'll cherish for seasons to come. Happy crocheting, my friends!