Freya Ballet Slippers

Keep your feet cozy and stylish with these elegant crochet ballet slippers featuring a textured toe and a sweet button strap.

There is nothing quite like slipping your feet into a warm, handmade pair of slippers after a long day. I used to buy those cheap, store-bought fuzzy socks, but they always wore out within a month.

It was incredibly frustrating.

That is when I decided to design something both durable and beautiful.

These ballet-style slippers are the perfect solution, combining a snug, comfortable fit with a touch of classic elegance. You do not have to sacrifice style just to keep your toes warm around the house.

If you have ever struggled with slipper patterns that turn out too bulky or slide off your heels, you are in the right place. This design features a clever textured toe box that hugs your foot, while the adjustable button strap ensures they stay securely in place as you walk.

Best of all, they work up surprisingly fast using standard worsted weight yarn.

Whether you are making these for yourself or gifting them to a loved one, this project is a joy to crochet. Let's grab our hooks and walk through this together, step by step!

Why You'll Love This Pattern

• Stay-Put Design: The buttoned ankle strap prevents the slippers from slipping off your heels.
• Elegant Texture: Alternating front post stitches create a beautiful, knit-like ribbing on the toe.
• Customizable Fit: With six sizes included, you can easily craft the perfect pair for almost any foot size.

Materials You'll Need

• Yarn: Worsted weight (Size 4 medium) yarn, such as Vanna's Choice.
• Hook: Size 7 (4.5mm) crochet hook.
• Notions: A yarn needle for weaving in ends and a pair of 3/4-inch wooden buttons.
• Yardage: 90 yards for sizes 5-6, 100 yards for sizes 7-8, and 150 yards for sizes 9-10.

Gauge & Sizing

• Gauge: 12 hdc and 10 rows = 4 inches.
• Sizes included: US Women's sizes 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, and 10.
• Finished measurements: Size 5 is 8-3/4" long; Size 6 is 9" long; Size 7 is 9-1/4" long; Size 8 is 9-1/2" long; Size 9 is 10" long; Size 10 is 10-1/4" long.

Abbreviations & Stitch Instructions

• st (sts): Stitch (stitches).
• sc: Single crochet.
• sl st: Slip stitch.
• hdc: Half double crochet.
• fphdc (Front Post Half Double Crochet): Yarn over, insert hook from front to back around the post of the stitch below, bring hook back to the front, pull up a loop, yarn over, and draw through all three loops.
• hdc2tog (Half Double Crochet Decrease): Yarn over, pull up a loop in the first stitch, pull up a loop in the next stitch, yarn over, and pull through all five loops on your hook.
• hdc3tog (Half Double Crochet 3 Together): Yarn over, pull up a loop in each of the next three stitches, yarn over, and pull through all seven loops on your hook.
• sc2tog (Single Crochet Decrease): Insert hook and pull up a loop in each of the next two stitches, yarn over, and pull through all three loops.
• rsc (Reverse Single Crochet): Also known as the crab stitch, this is worked from left to right. Insert your hook into the stitch to the right, pull up a loop, yarn over, and pull through both loops.

Pattern Notes

• Skill Level: Advanced Beginner.
• This pattern is written in US crochet terms.
• The item is worked in the round for the toe, then flat in rows for the sole and ankle sides.
• Tension Tip: Keep your slip stitches and reverse single crochet border stitches snug so the slipper opening doesn't stretch out over time.
• Customization Tip: If you are between sizes, go with the smaller size. The yarn will stretch slightly with wear to mold perfectly to your feet.

Step-by-Step Instructions

Sizes 5 and 6

The Toe Box

Round 1: Form a magic loop and chain 1 (this does not count as a stitch). Work 5 hdc into the loop. Pull the yarn tail gently to close the center, being careful not to pull too tightly to avoid a pointed toe. Join with a sl st to the first hdc. Do not turn. (5 hdc)

Round 2: Chain 1. Work 3 hdc in the first stitch, 2 hdc in each of the next 2 stitches, 3 hdc in the next stitch, and 2 hdc in the final stitch. Slip stitch to the first hdc to join. Do not turn. (12 hdc)

Round 3: Chain 1. Work a fphdc around the post of the first hdc. *Work 1 hdc in the next stitch, then work a fphdc around the post of that same stitch. Repeat from * until you work a fphdc in the last hdc. Work 1 hdc in the slip stitch from the previous round. Join with a sl st to the first fphdc. Do not turn. (12 fphdc alternating with 12 hdc)

Round 4: Chain 1. Work a fphdc around the first fphdc directly below the chain. *Work 1 hdc in the next fphdc, then work a fphdc around that same stitch. Repeat from * until you work a fphdc in the last fphdc. Work 1 hdc in the slip stitch from the previous round. Join with a sl st to the first fphdc. Do not turn. (12 fphdc alternating with 12 hdc)

Rounds 5+: Repeat Round 4 until your toe section measures 3 inches tall. The width should be roughly 3-3/4 inches. Do not fasten off. We will now transition to working in rows.

Sole and Sides

Row 1: Chain 1 and turn your work. Work 1 hdc in the same stitch as the chain, then work 1 hdc in each of the next 16 stitches. Turn. (17 hdc)

Row 2: Chain 1. Work 1 hdc in the same stitch as the chain, then work 1 hdc in each of the next 16 stitches. Turn. (17 hdc)

Rows 3-6 (Size 5) / Rows 3-7 (Size 6): Repeat Row 2 four more times for Size 5 (6 total hdc rows) or five more times for Size 6 (7 total hdc rows).

Row 7 (Size 5) / Row 8 (Size 6): Chain 1. Work 1 hdc in the first stitch, 2 hdc in the next stitch, then hdc in each stitch across until 2 stitches remain. Work 2 hdc in the next stitch, and 1 hdc in the last stitch. Turn. (19 hdc)

Row 8 (Size 5) / Row 9 (Size 6): Chain 1. Work 1 hdc in the first stitch and in each stitch across. Turn. (19 hdc)

Row 9 (Size 5) / Row 10 (Size 6): Chain 1. Work 1 hdc in the first stitch, 2 hdc in the next stitch, then hdc in each stitch across until 2 stitches remain. Work 2 hdc in the next stitch, and 1 hdc in the last stitch. Turn. (21 hdc)

Row 10 (Size 5) / Row 11 (Size 6): Chain 1. Work 1 hdc in the first stitch and in each stitch across. Turn. (21 hdc)

Row 11 (Size 5) / Row 12 (Size 6): Chain 1. Work 1 hdc in each of the first 2 stitches, 2 hdc in the next stitch, and 1 hdc in each of the next 5 stitches. Work a hdc2tog across the next 2 stitches, 1 hdc in the next stitch, and another hdc2tog across the next 2 stitches. Work 1 hdc in each of the next 5 stitches, 2 hdc in the next stitch, and 1 hdc in each of the last 2 stitches. Turn. (21 sts)

Row 12 (Size 5) / Row 13 (Size 6): Chain 1. Work 1 hdc in the first stitch and in each stitch across. Turn. (21 hdc)

Row 13 (Size 5) / Row 14 (Size 6): Chain 1. Work 1 sc in each of the first 3 stitches, 1 hdc in the next stitch, 2 hdc in the next stitch, and 1 hdc in each of the next 4 stitches. Work a hdc3tog across the next 3 stitches. Work 1 hdc in each of the next 4 stitches, 2 hdc in the next stitch, 1 hdc in the next stitch, and 1 sc in each of the last 3 stitches. Turn. (21 sts)

Row 14 (Size 5) / Row 15 (Size 6): Chain 1. Work 1 sc in each of the first 3 stitches, 2 sc in the next stitch, and 1 hdc in each of the next 4 stitches. Work a hdc2tog across the next 2 stitches, 1 hdc in the next stitch, and another hdc2tog across the next 2 stitches. Work 1 hdc in each of the next 4 stitches, 2 sc in the next stitch, and 1 sc in each of the last 3 stitches. Do not fasten off. (21 sts)

Seaming and Finishing

Your slipper should now measure approximately 8-3/4 inches long for Size 5, or 9 inches long for Size 6. Fold the back heel portion in half with the right sides facing together. Slip stitch the back seam shut from the inside. Do not fasten off.

The Border

Turn the slipper right side out. Slip stitch to the back heel seam. Work 1 sc evenly into each row end along the side. When you reach the toe section, work 1 sc into the corner and 1 sc into each stitch across the toe. Continue down the opposite side, working 1 sc into each row end. Join with a sl st to the first sc. Keep your single crochet stitches relatively tight.

Chain 1. Work reverse single crochet (crab stitch) from left to right all the way around the opening of the slipper. Join with a sl st to the first reverse sc, fasten off, and weave in your ends.

The Strap

Chain 16. Work 1 hdc in the 3rd chain from your hook and in each chain across. Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing. Make two straps.

Lay the slipper flat and count the ridges along the side. For the right slipper, sew the strap to the 5th ridge on the left side, positioning it slightly above the middle of the ridge to create a slight slant. For the left slipper, sew the strap to the 5th ridge on the right side. Fold the strap over the foot and secure it with a 3/4-inch wooden button.

Sizes 7 and 8

The Toe Box

Round 1: Make a magic circle and chain 1 (does not count as a stitch). Work 5 hdc into the circle. Pull the tail to close the circle, ensuring it is not too tight. Join with a sl st to the first hdc. Do not turn. (5 hdc)

Round 2: Chain 1. Work 3 hdc in the first stitch, 2 hdc in each of the next 2 stitches, 3 hdc in the next stitch, and 2 hdc in the last stitch. Join with a sl st to the first hdc. Do not turn. (12 hdc)

Round 3: Chain 1. Work a fphdc around the post of the first hdc. *Work 1 hdc in the next stitch, then work a fphdc around the post of that same stitch. Repeat from * until you work a fphdc in the last hdc. Work 1 hdc in the slip stitch from the previous round. Join with a sl st to the first fphdc. Do not turn. (12 fphdc alternating with 12 hdc)

Round 4: Chain 1. Work a fphdc around the first fphdc directly under the chain. *Work 1 hdc in the next fphdc, then work a fphdc around that same stitch. Repeat from * until you work a fphdc in the last fphdc. Work 1 hdc in the slip stitch from the previous round. Join with a sl st to the first fphdc. Do not turn. (12 fphdc alternating with 12 hdc)

Rounds 5+: Repeat Round 4 until the toe box is 3 inches tall. The width will be about 3-3/4 inches. Do not fasten off.

Sole and Sides

Row 1: Chain 1 and turn. Work 1 hdc in the same stitch as the chain, then work 1 hdc in each of the next 16 stitches. Turn. (17 hdc)

Row 2: Chain 1. Work 1 hdc in the same stitch as the chain, then work 1 hdc in each of the next 16 stitches. Turn. (17 hdc)

Rows 3-8: Repeat Row 2 six more times until you have a total of 8 hdc rows.

Row 9: Chain 1. Work 1 hdc in the first stitch, 2 hdc in the next stitch, then hdc in each stitch across until 2 stitches remain. Work 2 hdc in the next stitch, and 1 hdc in the last stitch. Turn. (19 hdc)

Row 10: Chain 1. Work 1 hdc in the first stitch and in each stitch across. Turn. (19 hdc)

Row 11: Chain 1. Work 1 hdc in the first stitch, 2 hdc in the next stitch, then hdc in each stitch across until 2 stitches remain. Work 2 hdc in the next stitch, and 1 hdc in the last stitch. Turn. (21 hdc)

Row 12: Chain 1. Work 1 hdc in the first stitch and in each stitch across. Turn. (21 hdc)

For Size 7 Only:

Row 13: Chain 1. Work 1 hdc in each of the first 2 stitches, 2 hdc in the next stitch, and 1 hdc in each of the next 5 stitches. Work a hdc2tog across the next 2 stitches, 1 hdc in the next stitch, and another hdc2tog across the next 2 stitches. Work 1 hdc in each of the next 5 stitches, 2 hdc in the next stitch, and 1 hdc in each of the last 2 stitches. Turn. (21 sts)

Row 14: Chain 1. Work 1 hdc in the first stitch, 1 hdc in each of the next 2 stitches, 2 hdc in the next stitch, then hdc in each stitch across until 4 stitches remain. Work 2 hdc in the next stitch, and 1 hdc in each of the last 3 stitches. Turn. (23 hdc)

Row 15: Chain 1. Work 1 sc in each of the first 3 stitches, 1 hdc in the next stitch, 2 hdc in the next stitch, and 1 hdc in each of the next 5 stitches. Work a hdc3tog across the next 3 stitches. Work 1 hdc in each of the next 5 stitches, 2 hdc in the next stitch, 1 hdc in the next stitch, and 1 sc in each of the last 3 stitches. Turn. (23 sts)

Row 16: Chain 1. Work 1 sc in each of the first 3 stitches, 2 sc in the next stitch, and 1 hdc in each of the next 5 stitches. Work a hdc2tog across the next 2 stitches, 1 hdc in the next stitch, and another hdc2tog across the next 2 stitches. Work 1 hdc in each of the next 5 stitches, 2 sc in the next stitch, and 1 sc in each of the last 3 stitches. Do not fasten off. (23 sts)

For Size 8 Only:

Row 13: Chain 1. Work 1 hdc in the first stitch and in each stitch across. Turn. (21 hdc)

Row 14: Chain 1. Work 1 hdc in each of the first 2 stitches, 2 hdc in the next stitch, and 1 hdc in each of the next 5 stitches. Work a hdc2tog across the next 2 stitches, 1 hdc in the next stitch, and another hdc2tog across the next 2 stitches. Work 1 hdc in each of the next 5 stitches, 2 hdc in the next stitch, and 1 hdc in each of the last 2 stitches. Turn. (21 sts)

Row 15: Chain 1. Work 1 hdc in the first stitch, 1 hdc in each of the next 2 stitches, 2 hdc in the next stitch, then hdc in each stitch across until 4 stitches remain. Work 2 hdc in the next stitch, and 1 hdc in each of the last 3 stitches. Turn. (23 hdc)

Row 16: Chain 1. Work 1 sc in each of the first 3 stitches, 1 hdc in the next stitch, 2 hdc in the next stitch, and 1 hdc in each of the next 5 stitches. Work a hdc3tog across the next 3 stitches. Work 1 hdc in each of the next 5 stitches, 2 hdc in the next stitch, 1 hdc in the next stitch, and 1 sc in each of the last 3 stitches. Turn. (23 sts)

Row 17: Chain 1. Work 1 sc in each of the first 3 stitches, 2 sc in the next stitch, and 1 hdc in each of the next 5 stitches. Work a hdc2tog across the next 2 stitches, 1 hdc in the next stitch, and another hdc2tog across the next 2 stitches. Work 1 hdc in each of the next 5 stitches, 2 sc in the next stitch, and 1 sc in each of the last 3 stitches. Do not fasten off. (23 sts)

Seaming and Finishing

Your slipper should now measure approximately 9-1/4 inches long for Size 7, or 9-1/2 inches long for Size 8. Fold the back heel portion in half with the right sides facing together. Slip stitch the back seam shut from the inside. Do not fasten off.

The Border

Turn the slipper right side out. Slip stitch to the back heel seam. Work 1 sc evenly into each row end along the side. When you reach the toe section, work 1 sc into the corner and 1 sc into each stitch across the toe. Continue down the opposite side, working 1 sc into each row end. Join with a sl st to the first sc. Keep your single crochet stitches relatively tight.

Chain 1. Work reverse single crochet (crab stitch) from left to right all the way around the opening of the slipper. Join with a sl st to the first reverse sc, fasten off, and weave in your ends.

The Strap

Chain 17. Work 1 hdc in the 3rd chain from your hook and in each chain across. Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing. Make two straps.

Lay the slipper flat and count the ridges along the side. For the right slipper, sew the strap to the 5th ridge on the left side, positioning it slightly above the middle of the ridge to create a slight slant. For the left slipper, sew the strap to the 5th ridge on the right side. Fold the strap over the foot and secure it with a 3/4-inch wooden button.

Sizes 9 and 10

The Toe Box

Round 1: Make a magic circle and chain 1 (does not count as a stitch). Work 6 hdc into the circle. Pull the tail to close the circle, ensuring it is not too tight. Join with a sl st to the first hdc. Do not turn. (6 hdc)

Round 2: Chain 1. Work 2 hdc in each of the first 5 stitches, and 3 hdc in the last stitch. Join with a sl st to the first hdc. Do not turn. (13 hdc)

Round 3: Chain 1. Work a fphdc around the post of the first hdc. *Work 1 hdc in the next stitch, then work a fphdc around the post of that same stitch. Repeat from * until you work a fphdc in the last hdc. Work 1 hdc in the slip stitch from the previous round. Join with a sl st to the first fphdc. Do not turn. (13 fphdc alternating with 13 hdc)

Round 4: Chain 1. Work a fphdc around the first fphdc directly under the chain. *Work 1 hdc in the next fphdc, then work a fphdc around that same stitch. Repeat from * until you work a fphdc in the last fphdc. Work 1 hdc in the slip stitch from the previous round. Join with a sl st to the first fphdc. Do not turn. (13 fphdc alternating with 13 hdc)

Rounds 5+: Repeat Round 4 until the toe box is 3 inches tall. The width will be about 4 inches. Do not fasten off.

Sole and Sides

Row 1: Chain 1 and turn. Work 1 hdc in the same stitch as the chain, then work 1 hdc in each of the next 17 stitches. Turn. (18 hdc)

Row 2: Chain 1. Work 1 hdc in the same stitch as the chain, then work 1 hdc in each of the next 17 stitches. Turn. (18 hdc)

Rows 3-9: Repeat Row 2 seven more times until you have a total of 9 hdc rows.

Row 10: Chain 1. Work 1 hdc in the first stitch, 2 hdc in the next stitch, then hdc in each stitch across until 2 stitches remain. Work 2 hdc in the next stitch, and 1 hdc in the last stitch. Turn. (20 hdc)

Row 11: Chain 1. Work 1 hdc in the first stitch and in each stitch across. Turn. (20 hdc)

Row 12: Chain 1. Work 1 hdc in the first stitch, 2 hdc in the next stitch, then hdc in each stitch across until 2 stitches remain. Work 2 hdc in the next stitch, and 1 hdc in the last stitch. Turn. (22 hdc)

Row 13: Chain 1. Work 1 hdc in the first stitch, 1 hdc in each of the next 2 stitches, 2 hdc in the next stitch, then hdc in each stitch across until 4 stitches remain. Work 2 hdc in the next stitch, and 1 hdc in each of the last 3 stitches. Turn. (24 hdc)

Row 14: Chain 1. Work 1 hdc in the first stitch, 1 hdc in each of the next 2 stitches, 2 hdc in the next stitch, then hdc in each stitch across until 4 stitches remain. Work 2 hdc in the next stitch, and 1 hdc in each of the last 3 stitches. Turn. (26 hdc)

For Size 9 Only:

Row 15: Chain 1. Work 1 hdc in the first stitch, 1 hdc in each of the next 9 stitches. Work a hdc2tog across the next 2 stitches, 1 hdc in each of the next 2 stitches, and another hdc2tog across the next 2 stitches. Work 1 hdc in each of the remaining 10 stitches to the end of the row. Turn. (24 hdc)

Row 16: Chain 1. Work 1 hdc in the first stitch, 1 hdc in each of the next 2 stitches, 2 hdc in the next stitch, then hdc in each stitch across until 4 stitches remain. Work 2 hdc in the next stitch, and 1 hdc in each of the last 3 stitches. Turn. (26 hdc)

Row 17: Chain 1. Work 1 hdc in the first stitch and in each stitch across. Turn. (26 hdc)

Row 18: Chain 1. Work 1 sc in each of the first 3 stitches, 1 hdc in each of the next 7 stitches. Work a hdc2tog across the next 2 stitches, 1 hdc in each of the next 2 stitches, and another hdc2tog across the next 2 stitches. Work 1 hdc in each of the next 7 stitches, and 1 sc in each of the last 3 stitches. Turn. (24 sts)

Row 19: Chain 1. Work 1 sc in each of the first 4 stitches, 1 hdc in each of the next 5 stitches. Work a hdc2tog across the next 2 stitches, 1 hdc in each of the next 2 stitches, and another hdc2tog across the next 2 stitches. Work 1 hdc in each of the next 5 stitches, and 1 sc in each of the last 4 stitches. Do not fasten off. (22 sts)

For Size 10 Only:

Row 15: Chain 1. Work 1 hdc in the first stitch and in each stitch across to the end. Turn. (26 hdc)

Row 16: Chain 1. Work 1 hdc in the first stitch, 1 hdc in each of the next 9 stitches. Work a hdc2tog across the next 2 stitches, 1 hdc in each of the next 2 stitches, and another hdc2tog across the next 2 stitches. Work 1 hdc in each of the remaining 10 stitches to the end of the row. Turn. (24 hdc)

Row 17: Chain 1. Work 1 hdc in the first stitch, 1 hdc in each of the next 2 stitches, 2 hdc in the next stitch, then hdc in each stitch across until 4 stitches remain. Work 2 hdc in the next stitch, and 1 hdc in each of the last 3 stitches. Turn. (26 hdc)

Row 18: Chain 1. Work 1 hdc in the first stitch and in each stitch across. Turn. (26 hdc)

Row 19: Chain 1. Work 1 sc in each of the first 3 stitches, 1 hdc in each of the next 7 stitches. Work a hdc2tog across the next 2 stitches, 1 hdc in each of the next 2 stitches, and another hdc2tog across the next 2 stitches. Work 1 hdc in each of the next 7 stitches, and 1 sc in each of the last 3 stitches. Turn. (24 sts)

Row 20: Chain 1. Work 1 sc in each of the first 4 stitches, 1 hdc in each of the next 5 stitches. Work a hdc2tog across the next 2 stitches, 1 hdc in each of the next 2 stitches, and another hdc2tog across the next 2 stitches. Work 1 hdc in each of the next 5 stitches, and 1 sc in each of the last 4 stitches. Do not fasten off. (22 sts)

Seaming and Finishing

Your slipper should now measure approximately 10 inches long for Size 9, or 10-1/4 inches long for Size 10. Fold the back heel portion in half with the right sides facing together. Slip stitch the back seam shut from the inside. Do not fasten off.

The Border

Turn the slipper right side out. Slip stitch to the back heel seam. Work 1 sc evenly into each row end along the side. When you reach the toe section, work a sc2tog across the last row end and the first stitch on the toe top. Work 1 sc into each stitch across the toe top to the last stitch. Work a sc2tog across the last stitch on the toe top and the next row end. Continue down the opposite side, working 1 sc into each row end. Join with a sl st to the first sc. Keep your single crochet stitches relatively tight.

Chain 1. Work reverse single crochet (crab stitch) from left to right all the way around the opening of the slipper. Join with a sl st to the first reverse sc, fasten off, and weave in your ends.

The Strap

Chain 19. Work 1 hdc in the 3rd chain from your hook and in each chain across. Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing. Make two straps.

Lay the slipper flat and count the ridges along the side. For the right slipper, sew the strap to the 5th ridge on the left side, positioning it slightly above the middle of the ridge to create a slant. For the left slipper, sew the strap to the 5th ridge on the right side. Fold the strap over the foot and secure it with a 3/4-inch wooden button.

Easy Variations & Custom Ideas

• Velvet Luxury: For an incredibly soft and plush feel, try making these with a velvet yarn. You can find inspiration in my Velvet Crochet Slippers pattern.
• Chunky Speed: If you want a super fast project, adapt this style using bulky yarn and a larger hook, similar to the construction of my 1.5 Hour Slipper.
• Men's Version: To make a matching pair for the men in your life, check out the sizing adjustments in my Everyday Slippers for Men.
• Bootie Style: If you prefer more ankle coverage, you can easily extend the sides upward to create a cozy bootie, much like my Slouchy Slipper Boots.
• Sweet Embellishments: Instead of wooden buttons, try sewing on crochet flowers, small bows, or even fluffy pom-poms to the toe box.
• Colour ideas: Classic neutrals like cream, slate gray, or oatmeal look incredibly sophisticated. For a fun twist, try a bright mustard yellow or a soft dusty rose.
• Yarn substitutions: Any standard worsted weight yarn will work beautifully. Acrylic blends like Red Heart With Love or wool blends like Lion Brand Wool-Ease are excellent choices for durability and warmth.

Common Troubleshooting & Fixes

• Problem: The slipper opening is too loose and slips off my foot.
  Fix: When working the single crochet border and the reverse single crochet round, keep your tension quite firm. If it is still too loose, try using a smaller hook (like a 4.0mm) just for the border rounds.
• Problem: The toe box looks pointy instead of rounded.
  Fix: Avoid pulling the magic circle tail completely tight on Round 1. Leaving a tiny, relaxed center helps the toe box lay flat and round out beautifully.
• Problem: The slipper is too short or too long for my foot.
  Fix: You can easily customize the length by adding or subtracting rows in the "Sole and Sides" section before you begin the heel shaping decreases.
• Problem: The strap does not reach across my foot comfortably.
  Fix: Simply adjust the starting chain of your strap. Add 2-3 chains for a higher instep, or subtract chains if your feet are more slender.

Care Instructions

To keep your handmade slippers looking their best, I highly recommend hand washing them in cool water with a mild wool wash. Gently squeeze out the excess water by rolling them in a clean towel—never wring them out! Shape them by hand and lay them flat to dry completely before wearing them again.

Final Thoughts

There is nothing quite as satisfying as wearing something you made with your own two hands. These ballet slippers are not only practical, but they also make wonderful, thoughtful gifts for friends and family. I hope you enjoyed making them as much as I did. Happy crocheting, my friends!