Chunky Fur Slipper Pattern

Keep your toes incredibly cozy with these plush, quick-to-make crochet slippers featuring a luxurious faux-fur trim.

There is nothing quite like sliding your feet into a pair of cloud-soft slippers at the end of a long, hectic day.

Yet, so many store-bought slippers wear out in weeks, leaving your heels cold and your soles flat.

That is where your crochet hook comes to the rescue. By using extra-thick yarn, you can craft a custom pair of house shoes that actually hug your feet.

Today, we are diving into a project that is as satisfying as it is speedy. You will only need about ninety minutes to complete a full pair.

If you have ever felt intimidated by shaping footwear, do not worry. I have designed this pattern to be incredibly straightforward, even if you are still mastering your tension.

We will be using a super bulky chenille yarn that feels like a warm hug, topped off with a fluffy faux-fur collar for that touch of cabin-chic luxury.

Why You'll Love This Pattern

• Incredibly Fast: You can easily whip up a finished pair in just one evening while watching your favorite show.
• Size Inclusive: With instructions covering US women's shoe sizes 5 through 12, you can make a pair for everyone in your family.
• No-Bulk Seams: Our clever slip-stitch seaming technique ensures the heel is perfectly smooth and comfortable to walk on.

Materials You'll Need

• Yarn: Super Bulky Chenille Yarn (Size 6), such as Bernat Blanket (shown in Pale Gray, Merlot, or Overcast) and a small amount of fluffy fur yarn like Red Heart Hygge Fur (shown in Cotton Tail) for the trim.
• Hook: Size N/P (10mm) for the main slipper body and size K (6.5mm) for the furry collar.
• Notions: A large-eye tapestry needle for weaving in thick ends, and a locking stitch marker or safety pin.
• Yardage: Approximately 100 yards of super bulky yarn per pair (meaning you can get two full pairs out of one standard 220-yard skein).

Gauge & Sizing

• Gauge: 7 single crochet stitches and 7 rows = 4 inches using the 10mm hook and super bulky yarn.
• Sizes included: US Women's shoe sizes 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11, and 12.
• Finished measurements: Designed to fit standard US shoe sizes with roughly 1/4 to 1/2 inch of comfortable wiggle room.

Abbreviations & Stitch Instructions

• ch: Chain
• sc: Single Crochet
• sl st: Slip Stitch
• sc2tog (Single Crochet Two Together): Insert hook into the next stitch, yarn over and pull up a loop. Insert hook into the following stitch, yarn over and pull up a loop. Yarn over and draw through all three loops on your hook. (This decrease is also used in our Slippons Crochet Baby Booties).
• sc3tog (Single Crochet Three Together): *Insert hook into the next stitch and pull up a loop; repeat from * two more times. Yarn over and pull through all four loops on your hook.

Pattern Notes

• Skill Level: Easy / Advanced Beginner.
• This pattern is written in US crochet terms.
• The item is worked in a seamless spiral for the toe, then worked flat for the heel.
• Tension Tip: Keep your stitches firm on the slipper body to create a sturdy sole, but loosen up your tension significantly when working with the fur yarn so you can feel your stitches.
• Customization Tip: If you prefer a taller boot style, check out our Slouchy Slipper Boots Pattern for a cozy alternative.

Step-by-Step Instructions

Part 1: Sizes 5 to 9

Step 1: Crafting the Toe Box

Using your 10mm hook and super bulky yarn, start by chaining 4.

Round 1: Work 2 sc in the second chain from your hook. Work 2 sc in the next chain, then 3 sc in the very last chain. Now, rotate your work to crochet along the unworked underside of your starting chain. Work 2 sc in the first empty loop, and 2 sc in the next empty loop. Join with a slip stitch to your very first single crochet.

Mentor Tip: To prevent gaps in your toe box, insert your hook under a single loop for the first stitch, and under the crossing junction of the loops for the second stitch.

Round 2: Chain 1 (this does not count as a stitch). Repeat the pattern of *(1 sc in the next stitch, 2 sc in the following stitch)* a total of 5 times, then work 1 sc in the last stitch. Do not slip stitch or turn. (16 sts)

Step 2: Working the Spiral Rounds

We will now transition into continuous spiral rounds without joining.

Round 3: Skip the starting chain 1. Work 1 sc directly into the next single crochet. Place your stitch marker here to mark the start of your round. Work 1 sc in each of the next 15 stitches, stopping just before your marked stitch. Do not join or turn.

Round 4: Work 1 sc in the marked stitch, move your marker up into this new stitch, and work 1 sc in each of the next 15 stitches. Do not join or turn.

Important Step: Before going any further, use your starting yarn tail to sew shut any tiny gaps at the tip of the toe, then weave in that tail securely.

Round 5 and Beyond: Repeat Round 4 until you have completed the required number of rounds for your specific size:

• Size 5: 9 Rounds total.
• Sizes 6 and 7: 10 Rounds total.
• Size 8: 11 Rounds total.
• Size 9: 12 Rounds total.

Mentor Tip: Keep a tally sheet! It is notoriously tricky to count rounds when working with fluffy chenille yarn in a spiral.

Step 3: Shaping the Heel

We will now work back and forth in rows to create the sides and back of your slipper.

Row 1: Slip stitch into the next marked stitch, then remove your marker. Chain 1. Work 1 sc in the same stitch as your chain 1, then work 1 sc in each of the next 10 stitches. Turn. (11 sc)

Row 2: Chain 1. Work 1 sc in the same stitch as your chain 1, then work 1 sc in each of the next 10 stitches. Turn. (11 sc)

Row 3: Chain 1. Work 1 sc in the same stitch, 2 sc in the next stitch, 1 sc in the next 7 stitches, 2 sc in the next stitch, and 1 sc in the last stitch. Turn. (13 sc)

Row 4: Chain 1. Work 1 sc in the same stitch, then work 1 sc in each of the next 12 stitches. Turn. (13 sc)

Row 5: Chain 1. Work 1 sc in the same stitch, 2 sc in the next stitch, 1 sc in the next 3 stitches, sc3tog across the next 3 stitches, 1 sc in the next 3 stitches, 2 sc in the next stitch, and 1 sc in the last stitch. Turn. (13 sc)

Row 6: Chain 1. Work 1 sc in the same stitch, then work 1 sc in each of the next 12 stitches. Turn. Do not fasten off.

Step 4: Seaming the Heel

Fold your last row in half with the inside of the slipper facing out. We will join the back of the heel using a slip stitch seam.

To keep this seam completely flat and comfortable under your foot, insert your hook only through the front loop of the layer closest to you and the back loop of the layer furthest from you. Slip stitch across, ending with a slip stitch in the corner.

Step 5: Working the Ankle Opening

We will now tidy up the opening of the slipper with a round of single crochet before adding the fur.

Mentor Tip: When working along the raw row edges, insert your hook into the natural "valleys" between the rows for a cleaner look. You can also crochet right over your yarn tail to save time weaving it in later!

Round 1 (Sizes 5 to 8): Join your super bulky yarn at the back of the heel. Chain 1, then work 21 sc evenly around the opening, making sure to work a sc2tog at the junction where the heel meets the toe box. Slip stitch to your first sc, then fasten off. (21 sc)

Round 1 (Size 9): Follow the same instructions as above, but work 22 sc evenly around the opening. Slip stitch to your first sc, then fasten off. (22 sc)

Step 6: Adding the Faux-Fur Collar

Switch to your 6.5mm hook and your fluffy fur yarn.

Fur Yarn Tips: You won't be able to see your stitches easily, so use your fingertips to feel for the spaces. Keep your stitches loose so you can easily unravel them if you make a mistake. Using a stitch marker at the start of each round is highly recommended here!

Round 2: Slip stitch your fur yarn to the back of the heel. Chain 1, and work over your yarn tail. Work 1 sc in the same stitch as your chain 1. Work 1 sc in each stitch around until you reach the sc2tog decrease from the previous round; work 2 sc into that decrease. Continue with 1 sc in each stitch until you reach the second sc2tog decrease; work 2 sc into that decrease. Work 1 sc in each remaining stitch to the end. Slip stitch to your first sc. Do not turn.

Round 3: Chain 1. Work 2 sc in the same stitch as your chain 1, then work 2 sc in every single stitch around. Slip stitch to your first sc. Do not turn. (This extra increase round makes your collar beautifully fluffy!)

Round 4: Chain 1. Work a sc2tog across the first stitch and the next stitch. Repeat *(sc2tog across the next 2 stitches)* all the way around. Slip stitch to your first sc. Do not turn.

Round 5: Chain 1. Work 1 sc in the same stitch as your chain 1, then work 1 sc in each stitch around. Slip stitch to your first sc. Do not turn.

Round 6: Repeat Round 5. Fasten off.

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Part 2: Sizes 10 to 12

Step 1: Crafting the Toe Box

Using your 10mm hook and super bulky yarn, chain 4.

Round 1: Work 2 sc in the second chain from your hook. Work 2 sc in the next chain, then 3 sc in the last chain. Rotate your work to crochet along the opposite side of your starting chain. Work 2 sc in the first free loop, and 3 sc in the next free loop. Slip stitch to your first sc.

Mentor Tip: When working that final 3 sc into the last loop, insert your hook slightly deeper to completely close up any potential hole.

Round 2: Chain 1 (does not count as a stitch). Repeat the pattern of *(1 sc in the next stitch, 2 sc in the following stitch)* a total of 6 times. Do not slip stitch or turn. (18 sc)

Step 2: Working the Spiral Rounds

Round 3: Skip the starting chain 1. Work 1 sc into the next single crochet, placing your stitch marker here. Work 1 sc in each of the next 17 stitches. Do not join or turn.

Round 4: Work 1 sc in the marked stitch, move your marker up, and work 1 sc in each of the next 17 stitches. Do not join or turn.

Important Step: Sew the toe gap closed using your starting tail and weave it in securely before continuing.

Round 5 and Beyond: Repeat Round 4 until you have completed:

• Sizes 10 and 11: 12 Rounds total.
• Size 12: 13 Rounds total.

Step 3: Shaping the Heel

Row 1: Slip stitch into the next marked stitch, then remove your marker. Chain 1. Work 1 sc in the same stitch as your chain 1, then work 1 sc in each of the next 11 stitches. Turn. (12 sc)

Row 2: Chain 1. Work 1 sc in the same stitch, then work 1 sc in each of the next 11 stitches. Turn. (12 sc)

Row 3: Chain 1. Work 1 sc in the same stitch, 2 sc in the next stitch, 1 sc in the next 8 stitches, 2 sc in the next stitch, and 1 sc in the last stitch. Turn. (14 sc)

Row 4: Chain 1. Work 1 sc in the same stitch, then work 1 sc in each of the next 13 stitches. Turn. (14 sc)

Row 5: Chain 1. Work 1 sc in the same stitch, then work 1 sc in each of the next 13 stitches. Turn. (For sizes 11 and 12, repeat this row once more as Row 6).

Row 6 (Row 7 for Sizes 11 and 12): Chain 1. Work 1 sc in the same stitch, 2 sc in the next stitch, 1 sc in the next 3 stitches, work two sc2tog decreases across the next 4 stitches, 1 sc in the next 3 stitches, 2 sc in the next stitch, and 1 sc in the last stitch. Turn. (14 sc)

Row 7 (Row 8 for Sizes 11 and 12): Chain 1. Work 1 sc in the same stitch, then work 1 sc in each of the next 13 stitches. Turn. Do not fasten off.

Step 4: Seaming the Heel

Fold your last row in half with the inside of the slipper facing out. Slip stitch the back seam together, inserting your hook only through the front loop of the front layer and the back loop of the back layer to prevent bulk. Slip stitch in the corner.

Step 5: Working the Ankle Opening

Round 1: Join your super bulky yarn at the back of the heel. Chain 1, then work 22 sc (or 23 sc if making sizes 11 and 12) evenly around the opening, making sure to work a sc2tog at the junction where the heel meets the toe box. Slip stitch to your first sc, then fasten off.

Step 6: Adding the Faux-Fur Collar

Using your 6.5mm hook and fur yarn, follow the exact same instructions as detailed in Step 6 of the Sizes 5 to 9 section (Rounds 2 through 6). Fasten off.

Step 7: Finishing Touches

Weave in any remaining yarn tails. The wonderful thing about fur yarn is that your tails will completely disappear into the fluffy texture, so you can weave them in randomly!

Easy Variations & Custom Ideas

• Classic Ribbed Cuff: If fur yarn isn't your style, swap it out for a cozy ribbed cuff using standard worsted weight yarn. You can learn how to work beautiful ribbing in our Why You'll Love This Pattern tutorial.
• Non-Slip Soles: To make these slippers safer on hardwood floors, apply a few dots of puff paint, clear silicone sealant, or hot glue to the bottoms of the soles once finished.
• Velvet Luxury: For an ultra-soft, shiny alternative, try substituting the main super bulky yarn with a plush velvet yarn. If you love that texture, you might also enjoy our Velvet Crochet Slippers.
• Add Pom-Poms: Give your slippers a playful, whimsical look by attaching a fluffy faux-fur pom-pom to the toe box of each slipper.
• Contrast Toe and Heel: Use up your yarn scraps by crocheting the toe box in one color, the heel in a contrasting shade, and finishing with a neutral fur collar.
• Colour ideas: Try a classic winter look with cream-colored soles and a snowy white fur trim, or go bold with a deep merlot sole and a contrasting charcoal collar.
• Yarn substitutions: Any category 6 super bulky yarn will work beautifully. If you cannot find Bernat Blanket, Lion Brand Hometown or Wool-Ease Thick & Quick make excellent, warm alternatives.

Common Troubleshooting & Fixes

• Problem: The toe box has a noticeable gap or hole at the very tip.
  Fix: When working Round 1, make sure to insert your hook deeper under the crossing loops as described in Step 1. If a small hole still remains, simply use your starting yarn tail to sew it shut from the inside before weaving it in.
• Problem: The slipper is slipping off my heel when I walk.
  Fix: Your tension might be a bit too loose. Try going down a hook size (to a 9mm) for the slipper body, or work one fewer row on the heel section to create a snugger fit.
• Problem: I cannot find my stitches when working with the fur yarn.
  Fix: Do not try to look for the loops visually. Instead, slide your thumb and forefinger along the edge of your work to feel for the gaps between the stitches. Keeping your stitches loose also makes them much easier to locate.
• Problem: The heel seam feels bulky and uncomfortable under my foot.
  Fix: Make sure you are only slip stitching through the front loop of the front layer and the back loop of the back layer. If you grab the full loops of both layers, it will create a thick ridge.

Care Instructions

To keep your slippers looking fresh and fluffy, hand wash them in cool water with a mild detergent. Gently squeeze out the excess water without wringing or twisting. Lay them flat on a clean towel to air dry. Once dry, you can gently brush the faux-fur trim with a clean, soft-bristled brush to restore its original fluffiness.

Final Thoughts

There is nothing quite as satisfying as a quick, cozy project that you can wear immediately. These slippers make the ultimate heartfelt gift for friends, family, or—let's be honest—a well-deserved treat for yourself. Grab your giant hook, put on your favorite podcast, and enjoy watching these squishy slippers come to life in no time at all. Happy crocheting!