Tunisian Knit Stitch vs Purl Stitch (Comparison Guide)

Tunisian knit stitch and Tunisian purl stitch are the next logical stitches after simple stitch. They look dramatically different. Knit stitch produces fabric nearly indistinguishable from stockinette knitting — those smooth V columns that define classic knitwear. Purl stitch creates the bumpy horizontal texture of reverse stockinette. Together, they form the building blocks of Tunisian ribbing, textural patterns, and fabric that finally stops curling.

Both stitches use the same forward-and-return rhythm as simple stitch. Nothing about the return pass changes. The only difference is where you insert the hook on the forward pass. That single variable — hook placement — transforms the fabric from woven-looking to knit-looking to bumpy and textured. Understanding exactly where the hook goes for each stitch is the key to mastering both.

This comparison guide assumes you're comfortable with Tunisian simple stitch. If you haven't worked through that yet, practice a simple stitch swatch first. The forward pass and return pass need to be automatic before you focus on new insertion points. The what crochet stitch actually looks like guide helps with stitch identification across all crochet styles.

What Makes Tunisian Knit Stitch Different

In Tunisian simple stitch, you insert the hook under the front vertical bar. In knit stitch, you insert the hook between the front and back vertical bars, from front to back, so the hook exits through the center of the stitch. This single change in insertion point transforms the fabric's appearance. The vertical bars that sat on the surface in simple stitch now recede, and the smooth knit-like V columns emerge.

The insertion goes through the fabric rather than under a single strand. Look at the stitch from above. Each stitch has a front vertical bar and a back vertical bar with a space between them. Insert the hook from front to back through that space, between the two bars. Yarn over, pull up a loop, leave it on the hook. The hook passes completely through the stitch and emerges on the back side. The loop you pull up comes from behind the work.

This through-the-middle insertion is what creates the knit look. The front vertical bar from the row below gets pushed backward, hiding it from view. What remains visible is the smooth chain of loops running vertically up the fabric — identical in appearance to the knit stitch columns of stockinette. The fabric is thinner and drapier than simple stitch because the stitches are less densely stacked.

Tunisian knit stitch curls less than simple stitch but still curls. The fabric rolls toward the right side, though not as aggressively. Combining knit and purl stitches in the same row — ribbing — is what finally neutralizes the curl. Knit stitch also uses slightly more yarn per row than simple stitch because the through-the-middle insertion creates a slightly larger loop.

How to Work Tunisian Knit Stitch

Foundation row: Work one row of Tunisian simple stitch. This establishes the base fabric and creates the vertical bars you'll work between. Some patterns call this the setup row. The knit stitch pattern begins on the next forward pass.

Forward pass: Skip the first vertical bar (the edge stitch). Insert the hook from front to back through the space between the front and back vertical bars of the next stitch. The hook should pass cleanly through the center of the stitch and emerge on the back side. Yarn over, pull up a loop from behind the work, leave it on the hook. The loop comes through from the back. Repeat across the row. At the last stitch, work under both strands of the edge stitch as you would for simple stitch.

Return pass: Identical to every other Tunisian crochet return pass. Yarn over, pull through one loop. Yarn over, pull through two loops. Repeat until one loop remains. The return pass doesn't change no matter which stitch you're working. The rhythm stays constant.

After a few rows, the knit columns become visible. The fabric looks like knitting. People will ask what you're making and then do a double-take when they see the long hook. The resemblance to stockinette is so close that knit stitch Tunisian fabric can be seamed to actual knitted fabric and the join is nearly invisible. That's how convincing the texture is.

What Makes Tunisian Purl Stitch Different

Purl stitch creates the bumpy horizontal texture characteristic of reverse stockinette or garter stitch in knitting. Like knit stitch in standard knitting, Tunisian purl stitch brings the yarn to the front of the work before inserting the hook. This front-positioned yarn creates the purl bump on the surface of the fabric.

The insertion point is the same as knit stitch — between the front and back vertical bars from front to back. The difference is what the yarn does before the insertion. Bring the yarn to the front of the work, hold it there, insert the hook through the stitch from front to back, then move the yarn to the back, yarn over, and pull up a loop. That yarn-forward-then-back motion is what creates the purl texture.

The motion feels awkward at first. Your yarn hand has to coordinate with your hook hand in a sequence that simple stitch and knit stitch don't require. Yarn to front, insert hook, yarn to back, pull up loop. It's a four-step motion where simple stitch is two steps. After a few rows, the sequence becomes automatic. The first row of purl stitch after a foundation row is the hardest — once you have purl bumps to work with, the rhythm settles in.

Purl stitch curls in the opposite direction from simple stitch and knit stitch. It rolls toward the back instead of the front. This is useful. Alternate rows of knit and purl stitch and the opposing curls cancel each other out. The fabric lies flat. This is why Tunisian ribbing — knit columns alternating with purl columns — is such a valuable technique. It eliminates curl without blocking.

How to Work Tunisian Purl Stitch

Foundation row: Work one row of Tunisian simple stitch as usual. The purl pattern begins on the next forward pass.

Forward pass: Bring the yarn to the front of the work. Skip the first vertical bar. Insert the hook from front to back through the space between the front and back vertical bars of the next stitch, exactly as for knit stitch. The yarn stays in front. Once the hook is through, move the yarn to the back of the work. Yarn over and pull up a loop. Leave it on the hook. Bring the yarn to the front. Repeat for each stitch across the row. At the last stitch, the edge stitch is worked with the yarn in the back, under both strands.

The yarn movement is the entire technique. Front, insert, back, pull up. Front, insert, back, pull up. If you forget to move the yarn, you'll accidentally create a knit stitch instead of a purl. Check your fabric every few stitches at first. A purl stitch should show a horizontal bump at the base of the loop. A knit stitch won't have that bump. If you see smooth columns where you expected bumps, you missed a yarn-to-front step.

Return pass: Unchanged. Yarn over, pull through one. Yarn over, pull through two until one loop remains. The return pass is your moment to reset before the next forward pass.

Side-by-Side Comparison

Insertion point: Both knit and purl stitch insert the hook between the front and back vertical bars, front to back. This is the shared technique. Simple stitch differs by going under the front vertical bar only.

Yarn position: Knit stitch keeps the yarn in back (the standard position). Purl stitch brings the yarn to the front before insertion, then back before pulling up. This yarn movement is the only thing that separates knit from purl.

Fabric appearance: Knit stitch shows smooth vertical columns identical to stockinette. Purl stitch shows horizontal bumps identical to reverse stockinette. Knit fabric is smooth. Purl fabric is textured.

Curl direction: Knit stitch curls toward the front (right side). Purl stitch curls toward the back (wrong side). Combined in ribbing, opposing curls neutralize each other.

Drape: Both stitches produce thinner, drapier fabric than simple stitch. Knit stitch fabric has slightly more vertical drape. Purl stitch fabric has more horizontal give.

Yarn consumption: Both use similar amounts of yarn, slightly more than simple stitch due to the through-the-middle insertion creating a marginally larger loop.

Combining Knit and Purl: Ribbing and Beyond

The real power of these two stitches is how they work together. Alternating knit and purl stitches across a row creates ribbing — vertical columns of knit texture separated by columns of purl texture. The classic combination is knit 2, purl 2, repeated across. The knit columns pop forward. The purl columns recede. The opposing curls cancel, producing a flat, elastic fabric ideal for cuffs, hems, and hat brims.

Ribbing requires managing yarn position constantly. For each knit stitch, yarn stays in back. For each purl stitch, yarn comes to front. Switching between the two every few stitches builds the yarn-management skill rapidly. The first few rows feel like mental gymnastics. By row five, your hands anticipate the switch without conscious thought.

Beyond ribbing, knit and purl stitches enable textural patterning. Purl stitches on a knit background create raised designs — letters, geometric shapes, picture motifs. Knit stitches on a purl background create the reverse. This textural contrast works best in solid-color yarn where the light and shadow on the bumps create definition. Variegated yarn obscures the texture, so save the busy colorways for simpler stitch patterns.

For garments, the drape of knit-stitch-dominant fabric is excellent. A sweater body in Tunisian knit stitch hangs like knitted fabric with the structural integrity of crochet. Add purl stitch ribbing at the cuffs and hem, and you have a garment that fits, stretches, and recovers like knitwear. The cozy crochet cardigan pattern demonstrates principles of garment construction that translate beautifully to Tunisian knit-and-purl fabrics.

Choosing Between Knit and Purl for Your Project

Use knit stitch when: You want a smooth, classic fabric. You're making a garment body that needs drape. You want the finished piece to look like knitting. You're working with a yarn that has beautiful stitch definition and you want to showcase it.

Use purl stitch when: You want texture. You're creating contrast within a knit-stitch background. You need to counteract curl in combination with knit stitch. You're making ribbing for cuffs, collars, or hems.

Combine both when: You want flat fabric that doesn't curl. You need stretch and recovery at garment edges. You're ready to experiment with textural patterning. You want the full range of what Tunisian crochet can do.

The easy free crochet ribbed beanie pattern uses standard crochet ribbing, but the principles of alternating stitch textures for stretch and fit apply directly to Tunisian knit-purl ribbing. Understanding why ribbing works helps you apply it across techniques. Fabric behavior doesn't change just because the hook is longer.