How to Do Tunisian Simple Stitch (Step-by-Step)

Tunisian simple stitch is the foundation. Every other Tunisian stitch builds on its forward-and-return rhythm. Knit stitch, purl stitch, honeycomb, smock stitch — they all modify where you insert the hook. The basic structure never changes. Master simple stitch and the rest of Tunisian crochet becomes a matter of small adjustments rather than entirely new techniques.

The fabric produced by Tunisian simple stitch is distinctive. Vertical bars run up the front, creating a woven appearance. The back shows a grid of horizontal strands. The fabric is dense, warm, and has excellent vertical drape. It curls toward the right side — stubbornly, predictably, and in a way that blocking will fix. Don't panic when your practice swatch rolls into a tube. That's supposed to happen.

This tutorial assumes you know how to chain and have basic tension control. If foundation chains still feel wobbly, practice a few standard crochet swatches first. The how to make a foundation chain tutorial helps if your chains need work. For this stitch, your foundation chain should be loose — go up a hook size for the chain if your tension tends tight. A tight chain makes the first forward pass a struggle.

What You Need Before Starting

A Tunisian crochet hook in a size appropriate for your yarn. For worsted weight yarn, use a 6.0mm or 6.5mm Tunisian hook — roughly one size larger than you'd use for standard single crochet with the same yarn. The larger hook compensates for Tunisian crochet's natural density and helps reduce curling. A 10-inch straight hook works for practice swatches up to about 20 stitches wide. The best crochet hooks for beginners guide includes notes on Tunisian-compatible options.

Smooth, light-colored worsted weight yarn. Solid colors let you see the vertical bars clearly. Dark or variegated yarn obscures the stitch structure. Acrylic or wool blends work well — cotton's lack of stretch makes the forward pass harder on your hands. Save the cotton for after you've built the muscle memory. A 4oz skein gives you enough for a practice swatch and a small project like a headband or coaster.

Stitch markers. You'll use one to mark the first stitch of each row. Tunisian rows are wide, and it's easy to lose your place in the vertical bars. A locking marker clipped to the first vertical bar of each row tells you exactly where you started. Two markers — one at each end — prevent edge stitch mistakes that throw off your count.

Step 1: The Foundation Chain

Chain loosely. This cannot be overstated. In standard crochet, you can work into a slightly tight chain and the fabric forgives you. In Tunisian crochet, you must pull up a loop in every single chain across the entire row. A tight chain makes every one of those loops a fight. Go up one full hook size for the foundation chain, then switch to your working hook for the first forward pass.

Chain any number for practice. 15 chains is a good starting width — wide enough to see the stitch pattern develop, narrow enough that each row finishes quickly. Count your chains. The number of chains equals the number of loops you'll have on your hook at the end of the first forward pass. If you chain 15, you'll have 15 loops. The loop on your hook before starting counts as loop zero — it becomes part of the return pass.

The back ridge of the chain, also called the back bump, is the cleanest insertion point for Tunisian crochet. Working into the back bump creates a neat bottom edge that matches the rest of the fabric. Insert your hook under that single back strand for each chain. If working into the back bump feels awkward, working under the top loop only also works — the edge will look slightly different but the stitch functions the same.

Step 2: The First Forward Pass

Insert the hook into the second chain from the hook. Skip that first chain — it serves as the edge stitch, similar to a turning chain in standard crochet. Yarn over and pull up a loop. Leave that loop on the hook. You now have two loops: the original loop from the slip knot plus the new loop. Insert the hook into the next chain, yarn over, pull up a loop, leave it on the hook. Three loops. Continue across the chain.

Each pull-up should match the height of the stitch. Consistent loop height is the main skill to develop. If some loops pull up tall and others short, your fabric will have wavy rows. Focus on pulling each loop to roughly the same height — about the width of your hook shaft. Think of it as drawing each loop up to the same level, not yanking some tighter than others. The motion should feel smooth, not forceful.

At the end of the row, count your loops. You should have the same number of loops on your hook as chains in your foundation. If you chained 15, you should have 15 loops. The first loop (the one that was on your hook before you started) also counts. If your count is off, check whether you skipped a chain or worked into the wrong spot at the very beginning. The first and last chains are the most common places for errors.

Do not turn the work. Tunisian crochet is never turned. You always work with the right side facing you. The forward pass moves right to left. The return pass moves left to right. The piece stays oriented the same way throughout. This consistent orientation is part of what gives Tunisian fabric its distinctive vertical grain.

Step 3: The First Return Pass

Yarn over and pull through one loop only. This creates the chain that forms the left edge of your fabric. Then yarn over and pull through two loops. Repeat "yarn over, pull through two" across the entire row. By the end, only one loop remains on your hook. That single loop becomes the first loop of the next forward pass.

The rhythm is the same as working a decrease in standard crochet, repeated over and over. Yo, pull through two. Yo, pull through two. Each pull-through-two resolves one stitch. The motion should flow smoothly. If you're fighting the yarn, your tension on the forward pass was likely uneven — some loops pulled up too tightly. Loosen your forward pass pull-ups on the next row.

The edge stitch — that first chain you made by yarning over and pulling through one — defines the left side of your fabric. Keep its tension consistent. If that edge chain is looser than the rest of the row, your edges will scallop. If it's tighter, the fabric will pull inward. Aim for an edge chain that matches the height of the stitches in the row. After a few rows, you'll develop a feel for what looks right.

Step 4: The Second Forward Pass (and Every One After)

Here's where the stitch pattern establishes itself. From the second row onward, you no longer work into chains. You work into the vertical bars created by the previous row. Look at the front of your fabric. Each stitch from the previous row forms a vertical bar — a single upright strand. For Tunisian simple stitch, you insert the hook under that front vertical bar from right to left.

Skip the first vertical bar at the right edge. That bar is the edge stitch, and working into it would add an unwanted increase. Insert your hook under the second vertical bar. Yarn over, pull up a loop, leave it on the hook. Move to the next vertical bar. Continue across the row, pulling up a loop from each vertical bar except the first one.

The last stitch of each forward pass requires attention. At the far left edge, there are two vertical strands forming the edge — work under both of them together. This creates a clean, stable left edge. If you only work under one strand, the edge becomes loose and sloppy. The double-strand edge stitch is a small detail that makes a visible difference in the finished piece. After a few rows, it becomes automatic.

Count your loops at the end of each forward pass. You should have the same number of loops as the original chain count. If you're one short, you likely skipped the last edge stitch or worked into the wrong bar at the beginning. If you're one over, you worked into that first edge bar you should have skipped. Consistent counting in the early rows prevents cumulative mistakes.

Step 5: The Return Pass Repeat

The return pass never changes. One yarn over and pull through one loop, then yarn over and pull through two loops across until one loop remains. Whether you're on row two or row two hundred, the return pass is identical. This predictability is one of Tunisian crochet's pleasures — half of every row runs on autopilot.

Maintain consistent tension on the return pass. The yarn-over-pull-through-two motion should be smooth. If the loops from the forward pass were uneven, the return pass will feel bumpy — some groups of two pull through easily, others resist. That resistance tells you your forward pass tension needs evening out. Listen to what the return pass tells you about the forward pass.

After several rows, you'll see the fabric developing clear vertical columns. The front of the work shows those upright bars. The back shows horizontal strands. The fabric will curl toward the front — the right side rolls inward. This is correct. Do not try to flatten it as you work. Crocheting with curled fabric in your hands feels awkward at first. Trust that blocking will resolve it later.

Binding Off in Tunisian Simple Stitch

Binding off secures the live stitches so the fabric doesn't unravel. The standard bind-off for Tunisian simple stitch mimics the look of the stitch pattern. Insert the hook under the front vertical bar as if for a normal forward pass. Yarn over and pull up a loop, then immediately pull that loop through the loop already on your hook. That's a slip stitch bind-off worked through the vertical bar.

Continue across the row, slip stitching into each vertical bar. Maintain relaxed tension. It's easy to tighten slip stitches more than the surrounding fabric, which creates a pinched top edge. Keep the slip stitches at the same height as the vertical bars. At the end, cut the yarn, pull the tail through the last loop, and fasten off.

The bound-off edge will still curl until blocked. That's normal. Don't keep adding rows hoping the curl disappears — it won't, not in Tunisian simple stitch. Finish your piece, weave in ends, and block. The crochet blocking tutorial covers techniques for flattening Tunisian fabric permanently.

Troubleshooting Common Beginner Issues

Fabric curling into a tight tube: Normal. Size up your hook. Loosen your forward pass tension slightly. Accept that blocking is part of the Tunisian crochet process, not a sign that you did something wrong.

Holes along the edges: You're likely skipping the last edge stitch or working into it inconsistently. Count your stitches. The double-strand edge technique described above usually resolves edge holes. If they persist, check whether your edge chain on the return pass is too loose.

Uneven loop heights creating wavy rows: Focus on pulling each loop to the same height on the forward pass. The loop should clear the hook shaft comfortably without stretching upward. If you're unsure what "same height" looks like, work a few rows and examine the fabric — wavy rows will be obvious. Rip back and practice the pull-up motion.

Return pass feels excessively tight: Your forward pass loops are too tight. Loosen them. The yarn should glide through during the pull-through-two motion without resistance. If you're yanking, the forward pass tension was too firm.

Your First Simple Stitch Project

A simple stitch dishcloth or coaster is the ideal first project. Chain 15–20. Work in simple stitch until the piece is square. Bind off. Block it. You'll have a finished object that taught you the forward pass, the return pass, edge stitch management, consistent tension, and binding off. That's the entire foundation of Tunisian crochet in one small, useful project.

From here, the variations open up. Tunisian knit stitch places the hook between vertical bars. Tunisian purl stitch moves the yarn to the front. Honeycomb stitch alternates simple and purl. But they all use the same forward-and-return rhythm you've now internalized. The crochet moss stitch tutorial covers a standard crochet stitch that shares the simple rhythm you've developed — alternating elements in a predictable repeat until the fabric emerges.