How to Decrease in Crochet: Basic and Invisible Methods

Decreasing is how crochet fabric becomes smaller. It's the technique that shapes the crown of a hat, narrows an amigurumi head toward the neck, and tapers sleeve cuffs. A decrease combines two stitches from the previous row or round into a single stitch, reducing the total stitch count by one. Where increases make fabric wider, decreases make it narrower — and doing them correctly is essential for achieving the sculpted shapes that make crochet projects look intentional rather than lumpy.

The challenge with decreases is that they can leave visible bumps, gaps, or irregularities in your fabric if not worked carefully. A standard decrease — simply crocheting two stitches together — often looks slightly different from the surrounding stitches. For many projects, this difference is acceptable. For amigurumi, garments with close-fitting shaping, and any project where the fabric surface will be closely examined, the invisible decrease technique produces a smoother, more professional result. This guide covers both methods, across all stitch types, with clear instructions for when and how to use each one.

What a Decrease Actually Does

A decrease takes two stitches from the previous row or round and turns them into one stitch in the current row or round. Where two V's sat side by side in the row below, there is now one V in the row above. This reduces your total stitch count by one for each decrease worked.

The standard method works by partially completing the first stitch, partially completing the second stitch, and then finishing them together — essentially crocheting two stitches as if they were one. The two partial stitches share a single top V, which is what makes them count as one stitch instead of two.

In pattern shorthand, a decrease is written as "sc2tog" (single crochet two together), "dec" (decrease), or "dc2tog" (double crochet two together). The "2tog" abbreviation is the most descriptive — it tells you exactly what you're doing: crocheting two stitches together into one.

How to Decrease in Single Crochet: The Standard Method (sc2tog)

This is the basic decrease for single crochet. It works, it's secure, and it's what most beginner patterns expect you to use. The finished decrease looks slightly different from a regular single crochet — a bit bulkier at the base — but this difference is usually not noticeable in textured or busy fabric.

Step-by-step:

1. Identify the two stitches you'll be decreasing across. The pattern tells you where — "sc2tog over next 2 sts" or "dec over next 2 sts."
2. Insert your hook into the first stitch. Yarn over, pull up a loop. You now have two loops on your hook. Stop here — do not complete the single crochet.
3. Insert your hook into the next stitch. Yarn over, pull up a loop. You now have three loops on your hook.
4. Yarn over and pull through all three loops on your hook in one motion.
5. You have now completed one single crochet decrease. It occupies the space of two stitches from the previous row but counts as one stitch.

What the standard sc2tog looks like: The decrease stitch appears slightly wider at the base than a regular single crochet because it's anchored across two stitch bases. The top V looks normal. From the front, you may see a slight horizontal bar where the two partial stitches were joined. This is the "visible" part of a standard decrease.

The Invisible Decrease: Smoother Shaping for Amigurumi and Garments

The invisible decrease produces a stitch that looks much closer to a regular single crochet. It's the preferred method for amigurumi, hat crowns, and any project where the fabric surface matters. The technique works by using only the front loops of the two stitches being joined, which reduces bulk and eliminates the horizontal bar of the standard decrease.

Step-by-step for invisible decrease:

1. Identify the two stitches you'll be decreasing across.
2. Insert your hook into the front loop only of the first stitch. Do not yarn over.
3. Immediately insert your hook into the front loop only of the second stitch. You now have three loops on your hook: the original loop, the first front loop, and the second front loop.
4. Yarn over and pull through the two front loops only. You now have two loops on your hook.
5. Yarn over and pull through both loops on your hook.

The key difference: by working through the front loops only, you're drawing the two stitches together without the excess yarn that creates the bump in a standard decrease. The finished invisible decrease sits flatter and blends more seamlessly with surrounding stitches.

When to use invisible decrease:

• Amigurumi — this is the standard for almost all toy patterns.
• Hat crowns — the decreases at the top of a hat are visible and benefit from the cleaner finish.
• Garment shaping — armholes, necklines, and waist shaping look more polished.
• Any project with smooth, solid fabric where bumps would be noticeable.

When standard decrease is fine:

• Textured or patterned fabric where the decrease blends in.
• Projects with borders that cover the shaped edge.
• Projects where the right side won't be visible (inside of a lined bag).
• When the pattern specifically calls for sc2tog and doesn't mention invisible decrease.

How to Decrease in Half Double Crochet (hdc2tog)

Half double crochet decreases are used in garments, hats worked in hdc, and any project where you need to shape fabric made of half double crochet stitches.

Step-by-step:

1. Yarn over. Insert hook into the first stitch. Yarn over, pull up a loop. Three loops on hook. Stop here.
2. Yarn over. Insert hook into the next stitch. Yarn over, pull up a loop. Five loops on hook.
3. Yarn over and pull through all five loops on your hook.

The hdc2tog creates a slightly textured stitch that sits a bit taller than a regular half double crochet. For a cleaner version, some crocheters prefer to yarn over, insert into first stitch, pull up a loop, skip the second yarn over, insert into second stitch, pull up a loop (four loops on hook), then yarn over and pull through all four. Experiment on a swatch to see which version you prefer.

How to Decrease in Double Crochet (dc2tog)

Double crochet decreases are common in garment shaping, lace patterns, and any project with taller stitches.

Step-by-step:

1. Yarn over. Insert hook into the first stitch. Yarn over, pull up a loop. Three loops on hook. Yarn over, pull through two loops. Two loops remain. Stop here — the first double crochet is partially complete.
2. Yarn over. Insert hook into the next stitch. Yarn over, pull up a loop. Four loops on hook. Yarn over, pull through two loops. Three loops remain.
3. Yarn over and pull through all three loops on your hook.

The dc2tog creates a stitch that looks like a slightly wider double crochet. It's taller than a single crochet decrease and more visible in the fabric, so placement matters. Dc2tog is often used decoratively in lace patterns where the decreases create intentional design elements.

How to Decrease at the Edges of Rows

In flat projects, you can decrease at the beginning or end of a row to narrow the fabric.

At the beginning of a row:

1. Turn your work. Make your turning chain.
2. Instead of working into the first stitch, work a decrease across the first two stitches (or skip the first stitch entirely, depending on the pattern).
3. Continue across the row normally.

At the end of a row:

1. Work across the row until you reach the last two stitches.
2. Work a decrease across those last two stitches.
3. Turn and continue.

Edge decreases create visible shaping at the sides of the fabric. For garments, this shaping defines armholes, necklines, and waistlines. For a scarf worked in single crochet, edge decreases can create tapered ends. The easy free beginner crochet scarf pattern is a good canvas for practicing edge decreases if you want to try shaping on a simple project.

Spaced Decreases in Rounds

Just as increases are spaced evenly in rounds to keep circles flat, decreases are spaced evenly to shape spheres, cones, and tapered tubes.

The basic rule for closing a sphere (amigurumi): Decrease by 6 stitches per round, mirroring the increase pattern that opened the sphere. If your increase pattern was 6 increases per round, your decrease pattern will be 6 decreases per round, spaced the same way.

Example pattern for closing a sphere:

• Round 1: (Sc in next 3 sts, dec) × 6. (24 sts)
• Round 2: (Sc in next 2 sts, dec) × 6. (18 sts)
• Round 3: (Sc in next st, dec) × 6. (12 sts)
• Round 4: Dec × 6. (6 sts)

This systematic decrease schedule creates a smooth, round closure. The sphere tapers evenly because the decreases are distributed around the entire circumference rather than clustered in one spot.

Common Decrease Mistakes and Fixes

"My decreases create visible holes."

Your tension is too loose, or you're working standard decreases when invisible decreases would be better. Tighten your tension slightly for decrease stitches. For amigurumi, switch to invisible decreases — they create significantly smaller gaps.

"My decrease stitches look lumpy compared to surrounding stitches."

This is normal for standard decreases. The lump is the two partial stitches sitting together. Switch to invisible decreases if the lumps bother you. If you're already using invisible decreases, check that you're working through front loops only — accidentally catching the back loop adds bulk.

"I'm losing count of where my decreases should go."

Place stitch markers at each decrease point before working the round. Count the stitches between decreases. On subsequent rounds, the markers from the previous round show where the decreases were, helping you space the new decreases evenly between them.

"My piece is closing too quickly or too slowly."

You have too many or too few decreases per round. Check your stitch count against the pattern. If your count is correct but the shape is wrong, you may be accidentally working increases instead of decreases (or vice versa) at some points.

Invisible Decrease vs. Standard Decrease: A Visual Comparison

On a swatch, work five regular single crochet stitches, then one standard decrease, then five more regular stitches. On the next swatch, work the same pattern with invisible decreases. Compare the two. The standard decrease will show a slight bump and a small gap at the decrease point. The invisible decrease will be nearly indistinguishable from the surrounding stitches.

The difference matters most in amigurumi, where dozens of decreases shape every curve. Invisible decreases produce toys with smoother surfaces and fewer gaps through which stuffing can peek. For a hat crown with six decreases per round, the invisible decrease makes the closure point look neater. For a blanket with a few decreases at the edges, standard decreases are perfectly adequate — the difference won't be visible from normal viewing distance.

For practice with both decrease methods, the free crochet circle pattern can be reversed (decreasing instead of increasing) to create a sphere. The free crochet patterns for beginners collection includes amigurumi projects that use decreases extensively.