Wobbly Ladders Crochet Blanket

Wrap your little one in pure, textured comfort with this gorgeous, squishy baby blanket featuring unique raised stitches that look like playful ladders.

Have you ever touched a finished crochet blanket and immediately wanted to bury your face in its soft folds?

That is exactly how I felt when this project came off my hook.

Many thick blankets look cozy in photos but end up feeling as stiff as a board in real life.

It is a common frustration, especially when you are working with super chunky chenille yarns.

The secret to keeping your fabric soft and pliable lies in your stitch choice.

By combining clever post stitches with a relaxed, flowing texture, we can create a fabric that is incredibly thick yet wonderfully drapeable.

Today, we are diving into a design I call the Wobbly Ladders blanket.

It uses front post stitches to build a beautiful, raised ladder-like pattern across the fabric.

Best of all, you will change colors every two rows without weaving in a million loose ends.

We will simply carry the yarn up the side of our work, hiding it completely inside the border later.

If you want to learn more about this magic trick, check out this guide on the Seamless Color Change Technique.

Grab your biggest hook and let's get started!

Why You'll Love This Pattern

• Incredible Texture: The raised front post stitches create a squishy, tactile surface that babies love to touch.
• No Extra Ends to Weave: Carrying the yarn up the sides means you won't spend hours hiding tails when you finish.
• Fast and Satisfying: Using a 10 mm hook and super chunky yarn means this cozy project flies off your hook in no time.

Materials You'll Need

• Yarn: Bernat Baby Blanket (Size 6 super chunky chenille yarn; 220 yards per skein). You will need 2 skeins of Planetary Purple Sparkle (Purple) and 2-1/4 skeins of Moonlight Sparkle (Cream).
• Hook: Size N/P (10 mm) crochet hook, or size needed to obtain gauge.
• Notions: Tapestry needle for weaving in ends, and scissors.
• Yardage: Approximately 935 yards total (440 yards of Purple, 495 yards of Cream).

Gauge & Sizing

• Gauge: 2 stitch repeats = 5-1/4 inches. One repeat consists of 2 fpdc and 3 sc.
• Sizes included: Baby / Stroller size.
• Finished measurements: 33-1/2 inches wide by 38 inches long.

Abbreviations & Stitch Instructions

• ch: Chain
• sc: Single Crochet
• hhdc: Herringbone Half Double Crochet. Yarn over, insert hook into the next stitch, pull up a loop through the stitch and immediately through the first loop on your hook. Yarn over and pull through the remaining two loops.
• fpdc: Front Post Double Crochet. Work a double crochet around the post of the indicated stitch from the front side.
• sc2tog: Single Crochet Two Together. Pull up a loop in each of the next two stitches, yarn over, and draw through all three loops on your hook.
• sl st: Slip Stitch
• st(s): Stitch(es)
• YO: Yarn Over
• Note on terms: This pattern is written using US terms. If you are more familiar with British terminology, you can refer to this US to UK Crochet Chart.

Pattern Notes

• Skill Level: Advanced Beginner / Intermediate.
• This pattern is written in US crochet terms.
• The item is worked flat in rows, with a border added in rounds at the end.
• Tension Tip: Keep your front post stitches loose! Pull the loops up to the height of your current row (about 1-1/4 inches tall) to prevent the blanket from bunching up.
• Customization Tip: You can easily adjust the width of this blanket by changing your starting chain. Just make sure your initial chain is a multiple of 5 + 3. For help with this, see our guide on Adjusting Crochet Foundation Chains.

Step-by-Step Instructions

The Foundation and First Rows

Using your cream yarn, chain 63.

Row 1 (RS): Work 1 sc in the second chain from your hook. Work 1 sc in every chain across to the end. Turn your work. (62 sc)

Row 2: Chain 1 (this does not count as a stitch here or throughout). Work 1 hhdc in the very first stitch (the same stitch as your chain-1). Work 1 hhdc in each stitch across. In the final stitch, complete your hhdc while pulling through your purple yarn to switch colors. Turn. (62 hhdc)

Setting Up the Ladder Pattern

Row 3: With purple, chain 1. Work 1 sc in the first stitch. Work 1 fpdc around the 5th sc of Row 1, then work 1 fpdc around the next sc of Row 1. *Skip the 2 stitches on the current row that are hidden behind your new post stitches. Work 1 sc in each of the next 3 stitches of the current row. Skip 3 sc in Row 1 from your last post stitch, then work 1 fpdc around each of the next 2 sc of Row 1. Repeat from * until you have only 1 sc left in Row 1. Skip the 2 stitches behind your post stitches, work 1 sc in the next 3 stitches of the current row, skip the last stitch, and work 1 sc in the turning chain-1. Turn. (24 fpdc + 38 sc)

Row 4: Chain 1. Work 1 hhdc in the first stitch and in each stitch across. In the last stitch, complete your hhdc while bringing your cream yarn back up to switch colors. Turn. (62 hhdc)

Building the Ladder Rows

Row 5: With cream, chain 1. Work 1 sc in the first stitch, then 1 sc in each of the next 3 stitches. Work 1 fpdc around the first fpdc stitch located one row below, and 1 fpdc around the next fpdc. *Skip the 2 stitches behind your post stitches, work 1 sc in the next 3 stitches of the current row, then work 1 fpdc around each of the next 2 fpdc stitches one row below. Repeat from * until you have worked post stitches around the final 2 fpdc stitches one row below. Skip the 2 stitches behind, skip the last stitch of the current row, and work 1 sc in the turning chain-1. Turn. (24 fpdc + 38 sc)

Row 6: Chain 1. Work 1 hhdc in the first stitch and in each stitch across. In the last stitch, complete your hhdc while bringing your purple yarn back up to switch colors. Turn. (62 hhdc)

Row 7: With purple, chain 1. Work 1 sc in the first stitch. Work 1 fpdc around the first fpdc stitch one row below, and 1 fpdc around the next fpdc. *Skip the 2 stitches behind your post stitches, work 1 sc in the next 3 stitches of the current row, then work 1 fpdc around each of the next 2 fpdc stitches one row below. Repeat from * until you have worked post stitches around the final 2 fpdc stitches one row below. Skip the 2 stitches behind, work 1 sc in the next 3 stitches of the current row, skip the last stitch, and work 1 sc in the turning chain-1. Turn. (24 fpdc + 38 sc)

Row 8: Chain 1. Work 1 hhdc in the first stitch and in each stitch across. In the last stitch, complete your hhdc while bringing your cream yarn back up to switch colors. Turn. (62 hhdc)

Repeating and Finishing the Body

Keep repeating Rows 5 to 8 until your blanket measures 36 inches long. Make sure you finish on a cream stripe (ending with Rows 5 and 6). Cut your purple yarn and fasten it off, but keep your cream yarn attached to work the border.

Mentor Tip: To easily remember this pattern without constantly checking your notes, remember that cream rows always begin with 4 sc and end with 1 sc. Purple rows always begin with 1 sc and end with 4 sc!

Adding the Cozy Border

Round 1: Chain 1 and turn to work along the top edge of your last row. Work 1 sc in the first stitch, 1 sc in the next stitch, then sc2tog across the next 2 stitches. *Work 1 sc in each of the next 2 stitches, then sc2tog across the next 2 stitches. Repeat from * until you reach the corner. Work 3 sc in the corner stitch.

Now, turn to work down the side of the blanket. Distribute your single crochets evenly along the edge (aim for 2 sc across the end of each colored stripe).

When you reach the next corner, work 3 sc.

Work along your starting chain edge, inserting your hook under the loops of the foundation chain. To prevent gaps, insert your hook under the junction of two loops. *Work 1 sc in each of the next 2 loops, then sc2tog across the next 2 loops. Repeat from * to the next corner, then work 3 sc in the corner.

Work up the final side of the blanket, making sure to crochet right over the yarn strands you carried up the edge to hide them. Work 3 sc along the first cream stripe, then distribute 2 sc across each remaining stripe end to the final corner. Work 1 sc in the corner, then slip stitch to your very first single crochet to join.

Round 2: Chain 1. *Work 1 sc in each stitch across to the next corner, then work 2 sc in the corner stitch. Repeat from * all the way around the blanket. Slip stitch to the first single crochet of the round, then fasten off.

Finishing: Use your tapestry needle to weave in all remaining yarn tails securely on the back of your blanket.

Easy Variations & Custom Ideas

• Solid Color Simplicity: If you prefer a solid look, skip the color changes entirely. You can see how a single-color texture looks in our Cookies and Cream Blanket.
• Adjusting the Size: To make a larger throw, increase your starting chain using a multiple of 5 + 3. You can make it as wide as you like, then simply repeat the rows until it reaches your desired length.
• Classic Half Double Crochet Swap: If the Herringbone stitch feels too slow, swap it out for a standard half double crochet. It will make the project work up even faster!
• Add a Contrasting Border: Use a completely different third color for the final border rounds to frame your wobbly ladders beautifully. For border inspiration, take a look at our Knots of Love Blanket.
• Play with Yarn Weights: While super chunky yarn makes this ultra-plush, you can use worsted weight yarn and a smaller hook for a lighter, spring-friendly baby blanket.
• Colour ideas: Try a soft mint green and white for a gender-neutral nursery, or bold mustard and grey for a modern, trendy look.
• Yarn substitutions: Any size 6 super bulky yarn will work beautifully. Chenille-style yarns like Premier Yarns Parfait Chunky or blanket yarns from Red Heart are excellent alternatives.

Common Troubleshooting & Fixes

• Problem: My blanket edges are curling up dramatically at the sides.
  Fix: Do not panic! This is completely normal for post-stitch patterns. Once you add the single crochet border around the entire blanket, the edges will flatten out beautifully.
• Problem: The blanket feels stiff and doesn't drape well.
  Fix: Your post stitches are likely too tight. When working your fpdc, make sure to pull your loop up to the height of your current row (about 1-1/4 inches tall) before completing the stitch.
• Problem: My yarn is getting tangled when I switch colors.
  Fix: Before you pull the new color through, always move your current yarn skein to the right. This simple habit keeps your working yarns separated and tangle-free.
• Problem: I have gaps or holes along my foundation chain edge.
  Fix: When working your border along the bottom chain, make sure you insert your hook under the junction where two loops meet rather than just a single loop.

Care Instructions

To keep your chenille blanket looking fluffy and new, machine wash it separately on a delicate cycle with cold water. Lay it flat to dry, or tumble dry on an air-only, no-heat setting. Avoid ironing or using bleach, as high heat can melt the synthetic fibers of chenille yarn.

Final Thoughts

There is nothing quite like watching a textured blanket grow row by row on your lap. This wobbly ladders design is the perfect mix of engaging stitches and relaxing repetition. I hope you enjoy making this cozy project as much as I did. Happy crocheting, my friends!