Crochet Blanket Cardigan Pattern

Wrap yourself in pure comfort with this gorgeous crochet blanket cardigan, featuring a beautifully textured stitch and two customizable sleeve options.

Have you ever wanted to wear a cozy throw blanket out of the house without looking like you just rolled out of bed? I certainly have, especially on those chilly mornings when the draft in my craft room is just too much to bear.

We have all been there.

Traditional sweaters can sometimes feel stiff, while oversized wraps constantly slip off your shoulders. It is incredibly frustrating to keep adjusting your clothes when you are trying to enjoy a walk or run errands.

That is where the magic of a blanket cardigan comes in. It combines the effortless warmth of your favorite throw with the smart, stay-put structure of a real garment.

Following the wonderful feedback on my previous cocoon designs, I wanted to create something with a bit more elegance and versatility. This new design features a beautifully textured main body, a cozy collar, and the choice between a casual three-quarter sleeve or a classic full-length sleeve. Best of all, the clever sideways construction means you will not have to worry about complex garment shaping.

Why You'll Love This Pattern

• Beginner-Friendly Construction: You will crochet a simple, flat rectangle first, which makes the entire project incredibly relaxing and stress-free.
• Two Sleeve Styles: Choose between breezy three-quarter sleeves or warm, vertically ribbed full-length sleeves to match your personal style.
• Stunning Texture: The combination of stitches creates a gorgeous "bumpy" fabric that looks intricate but is surprisingly easy to master.

Materials You'll Need

• Yarn: Lion Brand Wool-Ease (Worsted weight, size 4 Medium, 197 yards per skein). The sample is shown in Oxford Grey.
• Hook: Size J (6 mm) for the main body, and size H (5 mm) for the collar and sleeves. (Or sizes needed to obtain gauge).
• Notions: One large 1.5-inch wooden button, a yarn needle for weaving crochet tails, and stitch markers or scrap yarn.
• Yardage: Approximately 5 to 7 skeins depending on your size (approx. 985 to 1,379 yards).

Gauge & Sizing

• Gauge: Using the J (6 mm) hook: 6 bumps = 7 inches; 4 bumpy lines (8 rows) = 4 inches.
• Sizes included: XS/S, M, L, XL, 2XL.
• Finished measurements:
  • XS/S: 35" long x 36" wide
  • M: 36" long x 38" wide
  • L: 36" long x 39" wide
  • XL: 38" long x 40" wide
  • 2XL: 38" long x 42" wide
  (Note: Width is measured sleeve-to-sleeve, excluding cuffs. Length is measured from shoulder to hem when worn.)

Abbreviations & Stitch Instructions

• ch: Chain
• sc: Single crochet
• dc: Double crochet
• hdc: Half double crochet
• sl st: Slip stitch
• fpsc (Front Post Single Crochet): Insert your hook from front to back to front around the post of the indicated stitch, yarn over, pull up a loop, yarn over, and pull through both loops. For a deeper look at post stitches, check out our crochet post stitch guide.
• sc2tog (Single Crochet Two Together): Insert hook into next stitch, pull up a loop, insert hook into the following stitch, pull up a loop, yarn over, and draw through all three loops on your hook.

Pattern Notes

• Skill Level: Easy / Advanced Beginner.
• This pattern is written in US crochet terms.
• The item is worked flat as a large rectangle, then folded, seamed, and finished with ribbing worked in the round.
• Tension Tip: Keep your slip stitches loose on the full-sleeve cuffs to ensure they remain stretchy and comfortable.
• Customization Tip: You can easily adjust the length of the cardigan by changing the length of your starting chain.

Step-by-Step Instructions

Crocheting the Main Body

With your J (6 mm) hook, leave a 1-yard tail for sewing later, then chain 110 (114, 114, 122, 122).

Row 1: Working directly into the back bumps of your starting chain, work 1 sc in the second chain from your hook and in each chain across. [109 (113, 113, 121, 121) sts]

Row 2: Ch 3 (this counts as your first dc here and throughout), work 2 dc in the very first stitch. *Skip the next 3 stitches, then work (1 sc, ch 3, 3 dc) all into the next stitch. Repeat from * until you have 4 stitches remaining. Skip 3 stitches, then work 1 sc in the final stitch. Turn. [27 (28, 28, 30, 30) pattern groups]

Row 3: Ch 3, 2 dc in the first stitch. *Skip the next 2 dc, work 1 fpsc around the next dc (this pushes your ch-3 loop to the back), ch 3, work 3 dc into the adjacent ch-3 space. Repeat from * across. After working 3 dc in the last ch-3 space, skip the next 2 dc, work 1 fpsc around the turning ch-3 from the row below. Turn. [27 (28, 28, 30, 30) pattern groups]

Row 4 to Row 71 (75, 77, 79, 83): Repeat Row 3 until you have completed 34 (36, 37, 38, 40) textured bumpy lines. Do not count the flat starting and ending rows. This will equal 70 (74, 76, 78, 82) rows in total. Your fabric should measure approximately 32 (33, 33, 35, 35) inches long.

Final Row: Ch 3, 2 dc in the first stitch. *Skip 1 dc, work 1 sc in each of the next 2 stitches, work 2 sc in the next chain loop. Repeat from * across. After working 2 sc in the final chain loop, skip 1 dc, and work 1 sc in the last 2 stitches. Fasten off, leaving a 1-yard yarn tail for seaming. [109 (113, 113, 121, 121) sts]

Folding and Seaming

Lay your finished rectangle completely flat with the wrong side facing up. You can choose whichever side you prefer to be the right side.

Fold the shorter sides inward until they meet in the center. Using your yarn needle and the long tails, whip stitch the side seams closed. Leave an opening of 7 (7, 7.5, 8, 8) inches at the top of each fold for the armholes.

Adding the Collar Ribbing

Switch to your smaller H (5 mm) hook. Work on the right side of the cardigan.

Round 1: Join your yarn with a slip stitch at the center back of the collar opening. *Work 3 sc in each large chain loop and 1 sc in each small chain loop across. When you reach the sleeve seam, work 2 sc directly into the seam, then continue the pattern around. Join with a slip stitch to the first sc. [292 (308, 316, 324, 340) sts]

Round 2: Ch 1, work 1 hdc in the same stitch and in each stitch around to the final stitch. Work 2 hdc in the last stitch. Do not slip stitch and do not turn.

Round 3: Work 1 hdc in the third loop (the horizontal bar behind the stitch) of the next hdc. Place a stitch marker in this stitch to mark your start. Work 1 hdc in the third loop of each stitch around until you reach the stitch before your marker. Do not join.

Round 4: Work 1 hdc in the third loop of the marked stitch, move your marker up, and work 1 hdc in the third loop of each stitch around.

Rounds 5+: Repeat Round 4 until your collar ribbing measures 2.5 inches from the start of the hdc rounds.

Marking for the Wide Collar and Buttonhole: Fold your cardigan in half to find the center of the neck. Place a marker at this midpoint. Measure 17 (17.5, 17.5, 18, 18) inches out from both sides of this center marker and place two collar markers. Measure 2 inches to the left of the left collar marker and place a buttonhole marker. Remove the temporary center neck marker.

Buttonhole Round: Work 1 hdc in the third loop of each stitch until you reach your buttonhole marker. Ch 2, skip 3 stitches, then work 1 hdc in the third loop of the next stitch. Continue in hdc third loop until you reach your first collar marker. Work 1 dc in the third loop of the marked stitch (move marker up), then work 1 dc in the third loop of each stitch until you reach the second collar marker. Work 1 hdc in the third loop of each remaining stitch around to your starting marker.

Next Round: Work hdc in the third loop of each stitch around. When you reach the buttonhole, work 3 hdc directly into the ch-2 space. Continue with hdc in the third loop until the first collar marker, then work dc in the third loop of the collar section. Finish the round with hdc in the third loop.

Following Round: Repeat the previous round (hdc in third loop, dc in third loop across the collar section).

Final Round: Remove the collar markers. Work 1 sc in the third loop of each stitch around. Join with a slip stitch to the first sc, fasten off, and weave in your ends.

Sleeve Option 1: Three-Quarter Sleeves

Using your H (5 mm) hook, join yarn at the underarm seam of the armhole.

Round 1: Ch 1, work 1 sc evenly in each stitch around the opening. Join with a slip stitch to the first sc. Do not turn. [48 (48, 52, 55, 55) sts]

Rounds 2-5: Work in the third loop of each stitch around, following the spiral method used for the collar.

Round 6: Work 1 sc in the third loop of each stitch around. Join with a slip stitch to the first stitch, fasten off, and repeat for the second sleeve.

Sleeve Option 2: Full-Length Sleeves

Note: These cuffs are worked flat in vertical rows and then seamed to the cardigan.

Cuff (Make 2): Using your J (6 mm) hook, chain 27 (27, 29, 31, 31).

Row 1: Working into the back bumps of the chain, work 1 sc in the second chain from your hook and in each chain across until 5 (5, 6, 7, 7) chains remain. Work 1 hdc in each of the last 5 (5, 6, 7, 7) chains. Turn. [26 (26, 28, 30, 30) sts]

Row 2: Do not chain. Pull up your loop slightly to loosen it, then slip stitch into the very first stitch and each stitch across. Turn.

Row 3: Ch 1 (does not count as a stitch), work 1 sc in the first stitch and in each stitch until 6 stitches remain. Work 1 hdc in each of the last 5 (5, 6, 7, 7) stitches. Turn.

Row 4: Ch 1, work 1 sc in the first stitch and in each stitch across. Turn.

Row 5: Repeat Row 3.

Subsequent Rows: Repeat Rows 4 and 5 until the narrower side (the side without hdc stitches) measures 8 (8, 9, 10, 10) inches, ending on a slip stitch row.

Next Row: Ch 1, work 1 sc in each stitch until 5 (5, 6, 7, 7) stitches remain, work 1 hdc in each remaining stitch. Turn.

Next Row: Do not chain, loosen your loop, and slip stitch in each stitch across. Turn.

Final Row: Repeat the sc + hdc row once more. Your cuff should measure 9 (9, 10, 11, 11) inches on the narrow side, 10 (10, 11, 12, 12) inches on the wide side, and 7 (7, 7.5, 8, 8) inches long. Fasten off, leaving a 1.5-yard tail. Whip stitch the cuff into a tube.

Decreasing the Armhole: Using your J (6 mm) hook, join yarn at the sleeve seam on the right side of the cardigan. Ch 1, work 1 sc in the seam, (sc2tog) 5 times, work 1 sc in the next 9 (9, 11, 12, 12) stitches, (sc2tog) 5 times, work 1 sc in the next 8 (8, 10, 12, 12) stitches, (sc2tog) 5 times. Join with a slip stitch to the first sc. Do not turn. [33 (33, 37, 40, 40) sts]

Next Round: Ch 1, work 1 sc in each stitch around. Join and fasten off.

Assembly: Insert the right-side-out cuff into the armhole from the wrong side of the cardigan (wider end of the cuff at the opening). Align the seams and whip stitch them together. Secure and weave in your ends.

Easy Variations & Custom Ideas

• Cozy Pocket Additions: You can easily crochet two simple textured squares using the main body stitch pattern and sew them onto the front panels. If you love pockets, check out our Passion Pocket Shawl for inspiration.
• Lightweight Spring Version: Swap the worsted wool blend for a soft cotton yarn to turn this into a breezy spring layer.
• Bold Color Blocking: Try using a contrasting color for the collar and cuffs to make the textured details pop.
• Adjusting the Length: To make a cropped version, simply decrease your starting chain by 20 chains. For a duster length, add 20 to 30 chains to your starting chain.
• No-Button Open Cardigan: Skip the buttonhole steps entirely to create a relaxed, open-front drape.
• Colour ideas: Soft neutrals like cream, charcoal, or taupe look incredibly sophisticated. If you want something vibrant, try a rich mustard or deep forest green.
• Yarn substitutions: Any standard category 4 medium worsted weight yarn will work beautifully. Acrylic blends like Red Heart Soft or Caron Simply Soft are great budget-friendly alternatives.

Common Troubleshooting & Fixes

• Problem: My starting chain is too tight and the bottom edge of my cardigan is curving.
  Fix: This is a very common issue! Try using a hook that is one size larger (6.5 mm) just for your starting chain, then switch back to the J (6 mm) hook for Row 1.
• Problem: I am having trouble finding the ch-3 loop behind my front post single crochet.
  Fix: When you work the fpsc, it naturally pushes the ch-3 loop to the back of your work. Simply tilt your fabric slightly toward you to look behind the stitch; the loop will be sitting right next to your post stitch.
• Problem: My full-sleeve cuffs feel stiff and do not stretch over my hands.
  Fix: You are likely working your slip stitch rows too tightly. Make sure to consciously pull up your loop to loosen it before each slip stitch, or use a hook one size larger for those specific rows.
• Problem: The cardigan is turning out much wider than the measurements in the pattern.
  Fix: This stitch pattern is highly elastic. If your gauge is too loose, the fabric will stretch out significantly. Be sure to check your gauge on a small swatch before starting, and size down your hook if needed.

Care Instructions

To keep your cardigan looking its absolute best, I highly recommend hand washing it in cool water with a gentle wool wash. Lay it flat on a clean towel to dry. Avoid hanging your cardigan to dry, as the weight of the wet fabric will stretch out the stitches and ruin the shape.

Final Thoughts

There is nothing quite like the satisfaction of wrapping yourself in a handmade sweater that feels like a warm hug. Whether you choose the casual three-quarter sleeves or the cozy full-length cuffs, this blanket cardigan is sure to become a staple in your handmade wardrobe. Take your time, enjoy the rhythmic texture of the stitches, and don't forget to share your beautiful finished projects with me!