Pixie Spring Cardigan

Keep your little one cozy and stylish with this beautiful top-down raglan baby sweater, featuring a sweet ruffled hem and customizable sleeve lengths.

There is nothing quite like dressing a baby in handmade layers when the spring breeze starts to blow.

But let's be honest.

Many baby sweater patterns are incredibly fussy, requiring endless seaming and complex shaping that leaves you pulling your hair out.

That is why I love top-down raglan designs so much. They work up in one piece, meaning you can skip the sewing needles and focus entirely on the joy of your stitches.

Today, I am thrilled to introduce the Pixie Spring Cardigan. It is a lightweight, beautifully draped layering piece designed specifically to sit over sleeveless dresses.

With its charming ruffled bottom edge and options for both short and long sleeves, it is as practical as it is adorable.

Even if you have never crocheted a garment before, this project is the perfect place to start your journey.

Why You'll Love This Pattern

• No-sew construction: Worked from the collar down, so there are no pieces to sew together at the end.
• Highly customizable: Easily adjust the body length or choose between short and long sleeves.
• Charming ruffle detail: Adds a whimsical, feminine touch that elevates the entire design.

Materials You'll Need

• Yarn: Caron Simply Soft (Worsted weight, size 4, on the thinner side of worsted). Colors used in samples: Plum Wine, Taupe, and Off White.
• Hook: H/8 (5.00 mm) crochet hook.
• Notions: Tapestry needle, two 5/8" (16mm) buttons, sewing needle, and matching sewing thread.
• Yardage: Approximately 150 to 300 yards (depending on size and sleeve option chosen).

Gauge & Sizing

• Gauge: 14 double crochet stitches = 4 inches using the 5mm hook.
• Sizes included: 0-3 months, 3-6 months, 6-12 months, and 12-24 months.
• Finished measurements:
  • 0-3 Months: 16.5" chest, 6.5" length
  • 3-6 Months: 18" chest, 7" length
  • 6-12 Months: 20" chest, 8" length
  • 12-24 Months: 21" chest, 9" length

Abbreviations & Stitch Instructions

• ch: Chain
• dc: Double Crochet
• sc: Single Crochet
• hdc: Half Double Crochet
• sl st: Slip Stitch
• RS: Right Side
• WS: Wrong Side
• cl (Cluster): Yarn over, insert hook in specified space and pull up a loop, yarn over and draw through 2 loops. Yarn over, insert hook in same space, pull up a loop, yarn over and draw through 2 loops. Yarn over and draw through all 3 loops on hook.
• cl2tog (Cluster 2 Together): Worked exactly like the cluster stitch, but split across two designated stitches or spaces.
• sc2tog (Single Crochet 2 Together): Pull up a loop in the two specified stitches, yarn over, and pull through all three loops on your hook.

Pattern Notes

• Skill Level: Easy / Advanced Beginner.
• This pattern is written in US crochet terms.
• The item is worked flat for the yoke and body, then in the round for the sleeves.
• Tension Tip: Keep your cluster stitches relatively loose so they match the height of your double crochets.
• Customization Tip: You can easily lengthen the cardigan by adding more plain double crochet rows before starting the ruffle section.

Step-by-Step Instructions

Yoke for Sizes 0-3 and 3-6 Months

Row 1: Chain 48. Work 1 dc in 4th chain from hook (the turning chain 3 counts as your first dc). Work 1 dc in each of the next 6 chains. Work (cl, ch 2, cl) in the next chain. Work 1 dc in each of the next 6 chains. Work (cl, ch 2, cl) in the next chain. Work 1 dc in each of the next 14 chains. Work (cl, ch 2, cl) in the next chain. Work 1 dc in each of the next 6 chains. Work (cl, ch 2, cl) in the next chain. Work 1 dc in the remaining 8 chains. Place a stitch marker on this side to mark the Right Side (RS) and turn. [42 dc + 8 cl + 8 chs]

Row 2: Ch 2 (does not count as a stitch here and throughout the yoke). Work 1 dc in the first stitch. Work 1 dc in each stitch across to the first ch-2 space. *Work (cl, ch 2, cl) in the ch-2 space, work 1 dc in each stitch to the next ch-2 space; repeat from * across, working your final dc on top of the starting ch-3 from the previous row. Turn. [50 dc + 8 cl + 8 ch]

Row 3: Ch 2, 1 dc in first stitch, 1 dc in next 9 stitches. *Work (cl, ch 2, cl) in the ch-2 space. Work 1 dc in next 10 stitches, (cl, ch 2, cl) in next ch-2 space, 1 dc in next 18 stitches, (cl, ch 2, cl) in next ch-2 space, 1 dc in next 10 stitches, (cl, ch 2, cl) in next ch-2 space, 1 dc in remaining 10 stitches. Turn. [58 dc + 8 cl + 8 ch]

Row 4: Ch 2, 1 dc in first stitch, 1 dc in next 10 stitches. *Work (cl, ch 2, cl) in the ch-2 space. Work 1 dc in next 12 stitches, (cl, ch 2, cl) in next ch-2 space, 1 dc in next 20 stitches, (cl, ch 2, cl) in next ch-2 space, 1 dc in next 12 stitches, (cl, ch 2, cl) in next ch-2 space, 1 dc in remaining 11 stitches. Turn. [66 dc + 8 cl + 8 ch]

Row 5: Ch 2, 1 dc in first stitch, 1 dc in next 11 stitches. *Work (cl, ch 2, cl) in the ch-2 space. Work 1 dc in next 14 stitches, (cl, ch 2, cl) in next ch-2 space, 1 dc in next 22 stitches, (cl, ch 2, cl) in next ch-2 space, 1 dc in next 14 stitches, (cl, ch 2, cl) in next ch-2 space, 1 dc in remaining 12 stitches. Turn. [74 dc + 8 cl + 8 ch]

Body and Ruffles for Size 0-3 Months Only

Row 6 (Armhole Join): Ch 2, 1 dc in first stitch, 1 dc in next 12 stitches, 1 dc in the first ch-2 space. Skip the next 16 stitches (armhole created). Work 1 dc in the next ch-2 space. Work 1 dc in next 24 stitches, 1 dc in the next ch-2 space. Skip the next 16 stitches. Work 1 dc in the next ch-2 space, 1 dc in remaining 13 stitches. Turn. [54 dc]

Row 7: Ch 2, 1 dc in first stitch, 1 dc in each stitch across. Turn. [54 dc]

Row 8: Repeat Row 7. [54 dc]

Row 9 (Ruffle Prep): Ch 1, 1 sc in first stitch, 1 sc in each stitch across. Turn. [54 sc]

Row 10 (Ruffle Row 1): Ch 1 (does not count as a stitch), 1 dc in first stitch, 1 dc in next stitch. Work 2 dc in each stitch across to the last 2 stitches, 1 dc in each of the last 2 stitches. Turn. [104 dc]

Row 11 (Ruffle Row 2): Ch 1 (does not count as a stitch), 1 dc in first stitch, 1 dc in next stitch. *Work 2 dc in the next stitch, then 1 dc in the following stitch; repeat from * to the last 2 stitches, 1 dc in each of the last 2 stitches. Do not fasten off. [154 dc]

Proceed to the Buttonhole Band.

Body and Ruffles for Size 3-6 Months Only

Row 6: Ch 2, 1 dc in first stitch, 1 dc in next 12 stitches. *Work (cl, ch 2, cl) in the ch-2 space. Work 1 dc in next 16 stitches, (cl, ch 2, cl) in next ch-2 space, 1 dc in next 24 stitches, (cl, ch 2, cl) in next ch-2 space, 1 dc in next 16 stitches, (cl, ch 2, cl) in next ch-2 space, 1 dc in remaining 13 stitches. Turn. [82 dc + 8 cl + 8 ch]

Row 7 (Armhole Join): Ch 2, 1 dc in first stitch, 1 dc in next 13 stitches, 1 dc in the first ch-2 space. Skip the next 18 stitches. Work 1 dc in the next ch-2 space. Work 1 dc in next 26 stitches, 1 dc in the next ch-2 space. Skip the next 18 stitches. Work 1 dc in the next ch-2 space, 1 dc in remaining 14 stitches. Turn. [58 dc]

Row 8: Ch 2, 1 dc in first stitch, 1 dc in each stitch across. Turn. [58 dc]

Row 9: Ch 1, 1 hdc in first stitch, 1 hdc in each stitch across. Turn. [58 hdc]

Row 10 (Ruffle Prep): Ch 1, 1 sc in first stitch, 1 sc in each stitch across. Turn. [58 sc]

Row 11 (Ruffle Row 1): Ch 1 (does not count as a stitch), 1 dc in first stitch, 1 dc in next stitch. Work 2 dc in each stitch across to the last 2 stitches, 1 dc in each of the last 2 stitches. Fasten off. [112 dc]

Row 12 (Ruffle Row 2): Join with a slip stitch to the first stitch of Row 11 on the Right Side (RS). Ch 1 (does not count as a stitch), 1 dc in first stitch, 1 dc in next stitch. *Work 2 dc in the next stitch, then 1 dc in the following stitch; repeat from * to the last 2 stitches, 1 dc in each of the last 2 stitches. Do not fasten off. [166 dc]

Proceed to the Buttonhole Band.

Yoke for Sizes 6-12 and 12-24 Months

Row 1: Chain 54. Work 1 dc in 4th chain from hook (turning ch 3 counts as first dc). Work 1 dc in each of the next 7 chains. Work (cl, ch 2, cl) in the next chain. Work 1 dc in each of the next 7 chains. Work (cl, ch 2, cl) in the next chain. Work 1 dc in each of the next 16 chains. Work (cl, ch 2, cl) in the next chain. Work 1 dc in each of the next 7 chains. Work (cl, ch 2, cl) in the next chain. Work 1 dc in the remaining 9 chains. Place a stitch marker on this side to mark the Right Side (RS) and turn. [48 dc + 8 cl + 8 chs]

Row 2: Ch 2 (does not count as a stitch here and throughout the yoke). Work 1 dc in first stitch. Work 1 dc in next 9 stitches. *Work (cl, ch 2, cl) in the ch-2 space. Work 1 dc in next 9 stitches, (cl, ch 2, cl) in next ch-2 space, 1 dc in next 18 stitches, (cl, ch 2, cl) in next ch-2 space, 1 dc in next 9 stitches, (cl, ch 2, cl) in next ch-2 space, 1 dc in remaining 9 stitches, working the last dc on top of the starting ch-3. Turn. [56 dc + 8 cl + 8 ch]

Row 3: Ch 2, 1 dc in first stitch, 1 dc in next 10 stitches. *Work (cl, ch 2, cl) in the ch-2 space. Work 1 dc in next 11 stitches, (cl, ch 2, cl) in next ch-2 space, 1 dc in next 20 stitches, (cl, ch 2, cl) in next ch-2 space, 1 dc in next 11 stitches, (cl, ch 2, cl) in next ch-2 space, 1 dc in remaining 11 stitches. Turn. [64 dc + 8 cl + 8 ch]

Row 4: Ch 2, 1 dc in first stitch, 1 dc in next 11 stitches. *Work (cl, ch 2, cl) in the ch-2 space. Work 1 dc in next 13 stitches, (cl, ch 2, cl) in next ch-2 space, 1 dc in next 22 stitches, (cl, ch 2, cl) in next ch-2 space, 1 dc in next 13 stitches, (cl, ch 2, cl) in next ch-2 space, 1 dc in remaining 12 stitches. Turn. [72 dc + 8 cl + 8 ch]

Row 5: Ch 2, 1 dc in first stitch, 1 dc in next 12 stitches. *Work (cl, ch 2, cl) in the ch-2 space. Work 1 dc in next 15 stitches, (cl, ch 2, cl) in next ch-2 space, 1 dc in next 24 stitches, (cl, ch 2, cl) in next ch-2 space, 1 dc in next 15 stitches, (cl, ch 2, cl) in next ch-2 space, 1 dc in remaining 13 stitches. Turn. [80 dc + 8 cl + 8 ch]

Row 6: Ch 2, 1 dc in first stitch, 1 dc in next 13 stitches. *Work (cl, ch 2, cl) in the ch-2 space. Work 1 dc in next 17 stitches, (cl, ch 2, cl) in next ch-2 space, 1 dc in next 26 stitches, (cl, ch 2, cl) in next ch-2 space, 1 dc in next 17 stitches, (cl, ch 2, cl) in next ch-2 space, 1 dc in remaining 14 stitches. Turn. [88 dc + 8 cl + 8 ch]

Body and Ruffles for Size 6-12 Months Only

Row 7 (Armhole Join): Ch 2, 1 dc in first stitch, 1 dc in next 14 stitches, 1 dc in the first ch-2 space. Skip the next 19 stitches. Work 1 dc in the next ch-2 space. Work 1 dc in next 28 stitches, 1 dc in the next ch-2 space. Skip the next 19 stitches. Work 1 dc in the next ch-2 space, 1 dc in remaining 15 stitches. Turn. [62 dc]

Row 8: Ch 2, 1 dc in first stitch, 1 dc in each stitch across. Turn. [62 dc]

Row 9: Ch 1, 1 hdc in first stitch, 1 hdc in each stitch across. Turn. [62 hdc]

Row 10 (Ruffle Prep): Ch 1, 1 sc in first stitch, 1 sc in each stitch across. Turn. [62 sc]

Row 11 (Ruffle Row 1): Ch 1 (does not count as a stitch), 1 dc in first stitch, 1 dc in next stitch. Work 2 dc in each stitch across to the last 2 stitches, 1 dc in each of the last 2 stitches. Turn. [120 dc]

Row 12 (Ruffle Row 2): Ch 1 (does not count as a stitch), 1 dc in first stitch, 1 dc in next stitch. *Work 2 dc in the next stitch, then 1 dc in the following stitch; repeat from * to the last 2 stitches, 1 dc in each of the last 2 stitches. Turn. [178 dc]

Row 13 (Ruffle Row 3): Ch 1 (does not count as a stitch), 1 sc in first stitch, 1 sc in each stitch across. Do not fasten off. [178 sc]

Proceed to the Buttonhole Band.

Body and Ruffles for Size 12-24 Months Only

Row 7: Ch 2, 1 dc in first stitch, 1 dc in next 14 stitches. *Work (cl, ch 2, cl) in the ch-2 space. Work 1 dc in next 19 stitches, (cl, ch 2, cl) in next ch-2 space, 1 dc in next 28 stitches, (cl, ch 2, cl) in next ch-2 space, 1 dc in next 19 stitches, (cl, ch 2, cl) in next ch-2 space, 1 dc in remaining 15 stitches. Turn. [96 dc + 8 cl + 8 ch]

Row 8 (Armhole Join): Ch 2, 1 dc in first stitch, 1 dc in next 15 stitches, 1 dc in the first ch-2 space. Skip the next 21 stitches. Work 1 dc in the next ch-2 space. Work 1 dc in next 30 stitches, 1 dc in the next ch-2 space. Skip the next 21 stitches. Work 1 dc in the next ch-2 space, 1 dc in remaining 16 stitches. Turn. [66 dc]

Row 9: Ch 2, 1 dc in first stitch, 1 dc in each stitch across. Turn. [66 dc]

Row 10: Ch 1, 1 hdc in first stitch, 1 hdc in each stitch across. Turn. [66 hdc]

Row 11 (Ruffle Prep): Ch 1, 1 sc in first stitch, 1 sc in each stitch across. Turn. [66 sc]

Row 12 (Ruffle Row 1): Ch 1 (does not count as a stitch), 1 dc in first stitch, 1 dc in next stitch. Work 2 dc in each stitch across to the last 2 stitches, 1 dc in each of the last 2 stitches. Turn. [128 dc]

Row 13 (Ruffle Row 2): Ch 1 (does not count as a stitch), 1 dc in first stitch, 1 dc in next stitch. *Work 2 dc in the next stitch, then 1 dc in the following stitch; repeat from * to the last 2 stitches, 1 dc in each of the last 2 stitches. Fasten off. [190 dc]

Row 14 (Ruffle Row 3): Join with a slip stitch to the first stitch of Row 13 on the Right Side (RS). Ch 1 (does not count as a stitch), 1 hdc in first stitch, 1 hdc in each stitch across. Do not fasten off. [190 hdc]

Proceed to the Buttonhole Band.

Buttonhole and Button Bands (All Sizes)

Make sure your cardigan is Right Side (RS) out. The bands are worked directly onto the raw row ends of the front opening. The buttonhole band is worked on the left front edge, and the button band is worked on the right front edge.

Buttonhole Band:

Row 1: Ch 1 at the bottom corner (counts as first sc), work 2 sc immediately after the corner, then distribute sc stitches evenly up the left front edge to the neck. Turn.

Row 2: Ch 1 (does not count as a stitch), 1 sc in first stitch, ch 1 loosely, skip 1 stitch (this forms your first buttonhole), 1 sc in next 3 (or 4 for larger sizes) stitches, ch 1 loosely, skip 1 stitch (second buttonhole), 1 sc in each remaining stitch to the end of the row. Turn. Tip: If your buttons are larger than 5/8", you may need to chain 2 and skip 2 stitches instead of 1.

Row 3: Ch 1 (does not count as a stitch), 1 sc in first stitch, 1 sc in each stitch across (working 1 sc directly into each ch-1 space from the previous row). When you reach the neck corner, ch 1, then slip stitch evenly along the entire neckline to the opposite side. Do not fasten off.

Button Band:

Row 1: Ch 1 at the neck corner, distribute sc stitches evenly down the right front edge to the bottom corner of the ruffles. Turn.

Row 2: Ch 1, 1 sc in same st as ch 1, 1 sc in each st across to end, turn.

Row 3: Repeat Row 2. Fasten off.

Sleeves (All Sizes)

Stitch counts are written as: 0-3 months (3-6 months, 6-12 months, 12-24 months). Each sleeve opening consists of the skipped armhole stitches plus one extra stitch worked into the underarm area to prevent gaps.

Option 1: Short Sleeves

Round 1: With RS facing, join yarn with a slip stitch in the center of the underarm. Ch 1 (does not count as a stitch). Work 1 sc2tog across the join point and the post of the adjacent double crochet. Work 1 more sc2tog across the post of that same double crochet and the next chain space. Work 1 sc in each of the next 16 (18, 19, 21) skipped armhole stitches. Work 1 sc2tog across the next chain space and the post of the adjacent double crochet. Work one final sc2tog across the post of that same double crochet and the gap before the starting ch-1. Slip stitch to the first sc2tog. Do not turn. [20 (22, 24, 26) stitches]

Round 2: Ch 1 (does not count as a stitch), 1 sc in first stitch and each stitch across, working the final sc in the same stitch as the starting ch-1. Slip stitch to the first sc. Fasten off. [20 (22, 24, 26) stitches]

Option 2: Full Sleeves

Round 1: With RS facing, join yarn with a slip stitch in the center of the underarm. Ch 2 (does not count as a stitch). Work 1 dc2tog across the join point and the post of the adjacent double crochet. Work 1 more dc2tog across the post of that same double crochet and the next chain space. Work 1 dc in each of the next 16 (18, 19, 21) skipped armhole stitches. Work 1 dc2tog across the next chain space and the post of the adjacent double crochet. Work one final dc2tog across the post of that same double crochet and the gap before the starting ch-2. Slip stitch to the first dc2tog. Turn. [20 (22, 24, 26) stitches]

Round 2: Ch 2 (does not count as a stitch), 1 dc in first stitch and each stitch across, working the final dc in the same stitch as the starting ch-2. Slip stitch to the first dc. Turn. [20 (22, 24, 26) stitches]

Repeat Round 2 until your sleeve measures 5.25 (6, 6.5, 7.5) inches from the underarm. Ensure your final round is worked on the Right Side (RS).

Final Round: Ch 1, 1 sc in first stitch and each stitch across. Do not slip stitch and do not turn. Work 1 sc directly into the first sc of the round, place a stitch marker here, and work 1 sc in each stitch around. Slip stitch to the marked stitch. Fasten off.

Easy Variations & Custom Ideas

• Matching Set: Pair this cardigan with the adorable Blair Baby Sandals Pattern for a complete spring outfit.
• Spring Accessories: Crochet a matching Briar Sun Hat Pattern to keep the sun out of her eyes during outdoor picnics.
• Layering Dress: This cardigan is designed to fit perfectly over the sweet Cotton Candy Jumper.
• Color Blocking: Try using a contrasting color for the ruffles and sleeve cuffs. Learn how to transition colors cleanly with our guide on Seamless Crochet Color Changes.
• Alternative Sweaters: If you want a classic pullover style next, check out the Poppy Baby Sweater.
• Colour ideas: Soft pastels like mint green, lavender, peach, or classic cream work beautifully for spring.
• Yarn substitutions: Any light worsted weight yarn with good drape, such as Paintbox Yarns Simply Aran or Stylecraft Special DK (if you meet gauge).

Common Troubleshooting & Fixes

• Problem: The neck opening is too tight or stretches out too much.
  Fix: If it's too tight, use a larger hook size just for the starting chain. If it stretches out, work a row of single crochet or slip stitches around the neckline during finishing to stabilize it.
• Problem: There are large, unsightly holes under the armholes after joining.
  Fix: This is very common! When working the first round of the sleeves, make sure to pull your loops tight during the dc2tog or sc2tog stitches. You can also use your yarn tail to sew up any small remaining gaps.
• Problem: The ruffles look flat and aren't waving properly.
  Fix: Check your stitch count. The ruffles rely on rapid stitch increases (working 2 dc in almost every stitch). If you missed some increases, the ruffle won't drape correctly.
• Problem: The cardigan is too short for my baby.
  Fix: Simply add 2 to 4 extra rows of plain double crochet to the body before you begin the ruffle section.

Care Instructions

To keep this sweet cardigan looking its best, I highly recommend hand washing it in cool water with a gentle wool wash. Lay it flat on a clean towel to dry. Avoid hanging it up while wet, as the weight of the water can stretch out the shoulders and ruin the beautiful raglan shape.

Final Thoughts

There is nothing quite like seeing a little one running around in a garment you made with your own two hands. Once you finish crocheting, make sure to use a secure method for Weaving Crochet Tails so those ends don't pop out during playtime. Happy crocheting, and enjoy watching your sweet cardigan come to life!