Hillside Beanie Hat

Discover how to crochet a gorgeous, textured winter hat with this step-by-step Hillside Beanie pattern, designed to fit everyone from babies to adults.

There is nothing quite like the feeling of pulling on a thick, handmade hat when the winter wind starts to bite.

Yet, so many of us have struggled with beanie patterns that turn out too stiff, too slouchy, or require endless, mind-numbing stitch counting. I remember my own early attempts. They often ended up looking more like lumpy bowls than wearable accessories.

That is why I designed this textured beauty.

It solves those common fit issues by combining a super-stretchy ribbed brim with a clever, bottom-up body that practically counts its own stitches.

Today, we are diving into the Hillside Beanie. This design features a lovely, undulating texture inspired by quiet mountain slopes.

Best of all, this pattern is incredibly versatile. I have included five different sizes, so you can stitch one for your tiny toddler or make a matching set for the adults in your family.

If you love the look of knitwear but prefer the speed of a crochet hook, this project is your perfect match. You might also enjoy my Not Knit Crochet Beanie for a similar aesthetic. Let's grab our hooks and get started!

Why You'll Love This Pattern

• Incredible Stretch: The slip-stitch joined ribbing creates a snug yet highly flexible brim that stays put without squeezing.
• Worry-Free Counting: Working the textured rounds bottom-up means you do not have to obsessively count every single stitch to get a perfect crown.
• Family Sizing: With instructions spanning from baby to adult large, it is the only winter hat pattern you will need this season.

Materials You'll Need

• Yarn: Worsted weight (Medium / Category 4). The sample shown uses Yarn Bee Easygoing in the colorways Sage and Frosting.
• Hook: Size G (4 mm) for a neat, snug brim, and Size H (5 mm) for the textured body.
• Notions: A reliable tapestry needle for weaving in tails, a stitch marker (or a safety pin), and a medium-sized button if you want to add a removable faux-fur pom-pom.
• Yardage: Approximately 120 to 210 yards, depending on the size you choose to make.

Gauge & Sizing

• Gauge: Using the 5 mm hook, 6 pattern repeats measure 4.5 inches in length.
• Sizes included: Baby, Toddler, Child, Teen/Adult Small, and Adult Medium/Large.
• Finished measurements:
  • Baby: Fits up to an 18-inch head; measures 7 inches tall and 17 inches in circumference.
  • Toddler: Fits a 19-inch head; measures 7.5 inches tall and 18 inches in circumference.
  • Child: Fits a 21-inch head; measures 8 inches tall and 19.5 inches in circumference.
  • Teen/Adult Small: Fits a 22-inch head; measures 8.5 inches tall and 21 inches in circumference.
  • Adult Medium/Large: Fits a 23-inch head; measures 8.5 inches tall and 21.5 inches in circumference.

Abbreviations & Stitch Instructions

• ch: Chain
• sc: Single Crochet
• hdc: Half Double Crochet
• sl st: Slip Stitch
• BLO (Back Loops Only): Insert your hook solely under the back loop of the stitch, leaving the front loop unworked to create a ribbed texture.
• fpsc (Front Post Single Crochet): Insert your hook from back to front, then to the back again around the post of the specified half double crochet. Pull up a loop, yarn over, and draw through both loops.
• sc2tog (Single Crochet Two Together): Insert hook in first stitch, pull up a loop. Insert hook in next stitch, pull up a loop. Yarn over and pull through all three loops on your hook.

Pattern Notes

• Skill Level: Easy / Advanced Beginner.
• This pattern is written in US crochet terms.
• The item is worked bottom-up, starting with a flat ribbing strip that is joined into a ring, then worked in the round for the body and crown.
• Tension Tip: Keep your slip stitches loose when joining the ribbing ends so the seam remains as stretchy as the rest of the brim.
• Customization Tip: You can easily adjust the slouchiness of this hat by adding or subtracting pattern rounds before starting the decrease section.

Step-by-Step Instructions

Ribbing for Baby, Toddler, and Child Sizes

We will begin by creating the stretchy brim using our smaller hook.

Row 1: Using your G (4 mm) hook, chain 15 (17, 19). Work 1 sc in the second chain from your hook and in every chain across to the end. Turn. — 14 (16, 18) sc.

Row 2: Chain 1 (this does not count as a stitch). Work 1 sc in the BLO of the very first stitch. Continue working 1 sc in the BLO of each stitch across until you reach the final stitch. Work 1 regular sc under both loops of the last stitch. Turn. — 14 (16, 18) sc.

Repeat Row 2: Keep repeating this ribbing row until your band measures 16 (17, 17.5) inches without being stretched out. Do not cut your yarn.

Joining the Brim and Setting Up the Body

Now, let's turn our flat strip into a circular band.

Bring the two short ends of your ribbing together. Slip stitch them closed by working through the back loops of your last row and the starting loops of your foundation chain. Do not fasten off.

Round 1 (Base Round): Chain 1 at the seam. Distribute 66 (72, 78) single crochet stitches evenly around the edge of your ribbing. Slip stitch to the first single crochet to join. — 66 (72, 78) sc.

Mentor Tip: To make this step easier, divide your ribbing into four equal sections using stitch markers. Aim to place a quarter of your total stitches in each marked section. Avoid inserting your hook into large gaps; work into the solid parts of the stitches instead.

Textured Body for Smaller Sizes

Switch to your larger H (5 mm) hook to begin the beautiful textured pattern.

Round 1: Chain 1. In the very first stitch, work (1 sc, ch 2, 2 hdc). *Skip the next 2 stitches. In the following stitch, work (1 sc, ch 2, 2 hdc). Repeat from * until only 2 stitches remain. Skip those last 2 stitches, then slip stitch to your starting single crochet to join. — 22 (24, 26) pattern repeats.

Round 2: Do not chain. Remove your hook from the working loop, bring your yarn to the front of your work, and put your hook back into the loop. Skip the first hdc. Work 1 fpsc around the next hdc, placing a stitch marker in this stitch. Chain 2, then work 2 hdc in the adjacent chain-2 space. *Skip the next hdc, work 1 fpsc around the following hdc, chain 2, and work 2 hdc in the next chain-2 space. Repeat from * around. Slip stitch to your marked stitch to join. — 22 (24, 26) pattern repeats.

Round 3: Do not chain, and do not bring your yarn to the front this time. Skip the first hdc. Work 1 fpsc around the next hdc, marking this stitch. Chain 2, then work 2 hdc in the adjacent chain-2 space. *Skip the next hdc, work 1 fpsc around the following hdc, chain 2, and work 2 hdc in the next chain-2 space. Repeat from * around. Slip stitch to your marked stitch to join. — 22 (24, 26) pattern repeats.

Round Repeats: Keep repeating Rounds 2 and 3 until your hat measures 6.5 (7, 7.5) inches tall with the brim folded up.

Decreasing and Cinching Smaller Sizes

We will now begin tapering the top of the hat to close the crown smoothly.

Decrease Round 1: Do not chain. Bring your yarn to the front only if you are working on the inside of the hat. Skip the first hdc, work 1 fpsc around the next hdc, and mark it. Chain 2, then work only 1 hdc in the adjacent chain-2 space. *Skip the next hdc, work 1 fpsc around the following hdc, chain 2, and work 1 hdc in the next chain-2 space. Repeat from * around. Slip stitch to your marked stitch. Turn if you are on the inside; otherwise, continue without turning. — 22 (24, 26) pattern repeats.

Note: The remaining rounds are worked on the right side (outside) of your hat.

Decrease Round 2: Chain 1 (does not count as a stitch). Work 1 sc in the next chain-2 space and mark it. *Work sc2tog across the next 2 stitches, then work 1 sc in the next chain-2 space. Repeat from * until you have worked a single crochet in the final chain-2 space. Slip stitch to your marked stitch. Do not turn. — 43 (47, 51) stitches.

Decrease Round 3: Chain 1. Work 1 sc in the same stitch as your slip stitch and mark it. *Work sc2tog across the next 2 stitches, then work 1 sc in the next stitch. Repeat from * until 1 or no stitches remain. Work 1 sc in any remaining stitch, then slip stitch to your marked stitch. Do not turn. — 29 (32, 34) stitches.

Decrease Round 4: Chain 1. Work sc2tog across the first 2 stitches and mark it. *Work sc2tog across the next 2 stitches. Repeat from * until 1 or no stitches remain. Work 1 sc in any remaining stitch, then slip stitch to your first stitch. Fasten off, leaving a long 20-inch tail for sewing. — 15 (16, 17) stitches.

Instructions for Adult Small and Adult Medium/Large Sizes

Now, let's look at the steps for the larger sizes. Stitch counts are written as Adult Small (Adult Medium/Large).

Brim Row 1: Using your G (4 mm) hook, chain 22. Work 1 sc in the second chain from your hook and in each chain across. Turn. — 21 sc.

Brim Row 2: Chain 1. Work 1 sc in the BLO of the first stitch, then 1 sc in the BLO of each stitch across to the last stitch. Work 1 regular sc under both loops of the final stitch. Turn. — 21 sc.

Repeat: Repeat Row 2 until your ribbing measures 18.5 (19.5) inches without stretching. Do not fasten off.

Join Brim: Bring the ends together and slip stitch them closed through the back loops of the last row and the foundation chain loops.

Base Round: Chain 1 at the seam. Work 84 (87) single crochet stitches evenly around the edge of your ribbing. Slip stitch to the first stitch to join. — 84 (87) sc.

Textured Body for Adult Sizes

Switch to your larger H (5 mm) hook to begin the main body.

Round 1: Chain 1. In the first stitch, work (1 sc, ch 2, 2 hdc). *Skip the next 2 stitches. In the following stitch, work (1 sc, ch 2, 2 hdc). Repeat from * until 2 stitches remain. Skip the last 2 stitches, then slip stitch to your first single crochet to join. — 28 (29) pattern repeats.

Round 2: Do not chain. Remove your hook from the loop, bring your yarn to the front of your work, and reinsert your hook. Skip the first hdc. Work 1 fpsc around the next hdc, marking this stitch. Chain 2, then work 2 hdc in the adjacent chain-2 space. *Skip the next hdc, work 1 fpsc around the following hdc, chain 2, and work 2 hdc in the next chain-2 space. Repeat from * around. Slip stitch to your marked stitch to join. — 28 (29) pattern repeats.

Round 3: Do not chain, and do not bring your yarn to the front. Skip the first hdc. Work 1 fpsc around the next hdc, marking this stitch. Chain 2, then work 2 hdc in the adjacent chain-2 space. *Skip the next hdc, work 1 fpsc around the following hdc, chain 2, and work 2 hdc in the next chain-2 space. Repeat from * around. Slip stitch to your marked stitch to join. — 28 (29) pattern repeats.

Round Repeats: Repeat Rounds 2 and 3 until your hat measures 8 inches tall with the brim folded.

Decreasing and Cinching Adult Sizes

Let's shape the crown of your adult beanie.

Decrease Round 1: Do not chain. Bring your yarn to the front only if working on the inside of the hat. Skip the first hdc, work 1 fpsc around the next hdc, and mark it. Chain 2, then work 1 hdc in the adjacent chain-2 space. *Skip the next hdc, work 1 fpsc around the following hdc, chain 2, and work 1 hdc in the next chain-2 space. Repeat from * around. Slip stitch to your marked stitch. Turn if you are on the inside; otherwise, continue without turning. — 28 (29) pattern repeats.

Decrease Round 2: Chain 1. Work 1 sc in the next chain-2 space and mark it. *Work sc2tog across the next 2 stitches, then work 1 sc in the next chain-2 space. Repeat from * until you work a single crochet in the last chain-2 space. Slip stitch to your marked stitch. Do not turn. — 55 (57) stitches.

Decrease Round 3: Chain 1. Work 1 sc in the same stitch as your slip stitch and mark it. *Work sc2tog across the next 2 stitches, then work 1 sc in the next stitch. Repeat from * until 1 or no stitches remain. Work 1 sc in any remaining stitch, then slip stitch to your marked stitch. Do not turn. — 37 (38) stitches.

Decrease Round 4: Chain 1. Work sc2tog across the first 2 stitches and mark it. *Work sc2tog across the next 2 stitches. Repeat from * until 1 or no stitches remain. Work 1 sc in any remaining stitch, then slip stitch to your first stitch. Fasten off, leaving a long 20-inch tail. — 19 (19) stitches.

Finishing Your Beanie

Turn your hat inside out. Thread your long yarn tail onto a tapestry needle. Weave the needle in and out of every stitch around the top opening. Pull the tail firmly to cinch the top closed, tie a secure knot, and weave in your ends.

To add a detachable pom-pom, sew a button securely to the inside crown of the hat. Turn the hat right side out, and use your crochet hook to pull the pom-pom's elastic loop through the top of the hat and over the button. Alternatively, you can sew your pom-pom directly to the top of the hat.

Easy Variations & Custom Ideas

• Messy Bun Style: Simply stop decreasing after Decrease Round 2 or 3 to leave a larger opening at the top. This is perfect for high ponytails! You can check out my Skye Messy Bun Beanie for more inspiration.
• Slouchy Fit: Add 3 to 4 more pattern rounds before starting your decreases to give the hat a relaxed, modern slouch.
• Two-Tone Stripes: Change colors every two rounds to create striking, textured stripes. Learn how to transition seamlessly with my guide on Seamless Round Color Changes.
• Classic Folded Brim: Make the ribbing section 2 inches longer to create an extra-wide, cozy cuff that folds up over your ears.
• No-Pom Minimalist: Skip the pom-pom entirely for a sleek, unisex look that highlights the gorgeous mountain-slope texture.
• Colour ideas: Try deep mustard, forest green, or classic cream for a timeless autumnal look.
• Yarn substitutions: Any standard worsted weight yarn will work beautifully. I highly recommend Lion Brand Heartland or Caron Simply Soft as excellent alternatives.

Common Troubleshooting & Fixes

• Problem: The brim is too tight and does not stretch enough.
  Fix: You might be working your slip stitches or single crochets too tightly. Try switching to a larger hook size (like 4.5 mm) for the ribbing, or consciously loosen your tension.
• Problem: The textured body of the hat looks wavy or flared.
  Fix: Double-check your stitch count on the base round. If you have too many stitches, the pattern repeats will bunch up. Make sure you are skipping exactly two stitches between each pattern cluster.
• Problem: The top of the hat has a bulky, lumpy hole when cinched.
  Fix: Ensure you complete all the decrease rounds before cinching. The decreases are essential to reduce the bulk before you pull the yarn tail tight.
• Problem: The front post stitches are hard to find or work into.
  Fix: Remember that the fpsc is worked around the post of the half double crochet from the previous round. Tilt your work slightly toward you to clearly see the posts of your stitches.

Care Instructions

To keep your handmade beanie looking its best, I highly recommend hand washing it in cool water with a mild wool wash. Gently squeeze out the excess water by rolling it in a clean towel—never wring or twist your crochet work. Lay the hat flat to dry. If you used a detachable pom-pom, always remove it before washing to preserve its fluffy texture.

Final Thoughts

There is nothing quite like the satisfaction of finishing a project that is both beautiful and functional. I hope you enjoy making this cozy beanie as much as I enjoyed designing it for you. Once you master the rhythm of the post stitches, you will find yourself wanting to make one for everyone on your holiday gift list. Happy crocheting, my friends!