Lace Motif Bikini Crochet Pattern

This crochet bikini top uses two circular lace motifs joined at the center front with a continuous drawstring tie — no side seams, no shaping guesswork, and three cup sizes built directly into the stitch counts. Each cup grows outward from a center ring in joined rounds, which means the shaping happens automatically as you follow the stitch pattern. The openwork shell-and-chain fabric drains water quickly, and the mercerized cotton yarn tightens slightly when wet for a more secure fit.

If seaming stretchy fabric has kept you away from crochet swimwear, this pattern removes that obstacle. You work both cups identically from the same starting point, so they match by default. The drawstring back and halter ties adjust independently from the cups, giving you full control over fit. Beaded ends on all four ties add enough weight to stop the drawstring from slipping back through the eyelet edge — a functional detail, not a decorative one.

The entire project uses one skein of DK-weight cotton and a D hook. Once you memorize the motif repeat, you can crochet multiple tops in different colors without purchasing new materials.

Why You'll Love This Lace Bikini Top

The motif construction teaches a skill that transfers to other projects. Working joined rounds from a magic ring, graduating from solid double crochet into openwork lace, and placing V-stitch corners to create cup depth — these techniques appear in doilies, shawls, and mandala patterns. Learn them here on a fast one-skein project, and you will recognize the same structural logic in larger lace designs.

The chain spaces increase in size as the motif grows outward. Round 7 uses ch-2 between corners, Round 8 uses ch-3, and Round 9 uses ch-4. This graduation prevents the outer edge from pulling inward as the circumference expands. When you block the finished cup, those wider chain spaces flatten into a smooth curve that wraps around the bust rather than buckling.

Cotton behaves predictably in water — it gains a slight tension that improves hold without becoming stiff. The open lace releases water immediately when you leave the pool or ocean, so the top never feels heavy or waterlogged. You can machine wash it in a mesh bag and lay it flat to dry with no special treatment.

Adjustability is built into the pattern structure. The drawstring threads through the bottom eyelet row and up the outer edges of both cups, cinching to your ribcage at whatever tension works for your body. The halter straps can be crocheted longer or shorter by adjusting the chain count before fastening off. If your bust measurement fluctuates, you tighten or loosen the ties rather than altering the cups.

Materials Needed

• Yarn: DK weight (Category 3) 100% mercerized cotton, approximately 175–250 yards (160–230 m)
• Hook: Size D/3 (3.25 mm) crochet hook
• Notions: 4 wooden or ceramic beads with hole diameter large enough for DK yarn to pass through
• Tools: Yarn needle, 4 locking stitch markers, scissors

Best Yarn Choices for This Bikini Top

Mercerized cotton is the standard for crochet swimwear. The mercerization process swells cotton fibers, making them smoother, stronger, and more resistant to dye fading after saltwater and chlorine exposure.

Lion Brand 24/7 Cotton ($8.99 per 186-yard skein) holds its shape through repeated wet-dry cycles. The sheen is noticeable, and the color range includes saturated jewel tones like Magenta and Turquoise. One skein covers B and C cups with yardage to spare.

Patons Grace ($6.49 per 136-yard skein) has a finer finish and softer hand, though C and D cup sizes may require two skeins. This yarn blocks flat easily and produces crisp stitch definition for the shell rounds.

Scheepjes Catona ($3.95 per 136-yard skein) offers over 100 colors at a lower cost per yard than most competitors. The 100% mercerized cotton withstands repeated machine washing without pilling. For more guidance on matching fiber to project, see our complete yarn selection guide.

Avoid unmercerized kitchen cotton for swimwear. It lacks the wet-strength and elasticity needed for a snug fit, and the rougher texture becomes uncomfortable against wet skin. Acrylic and wool blends absorb water, stretch permanently, and dry slowly — all dealbreakers for a bikini.

Gauge, Size Guide & Key Details

Crochet one full motif through Round 8 and measure across the widest point before starting your actual bikini. Cup diameter determines coverage, so gauge accuracy matters here.

Gauge check: One completed motif through Round 8 must measure 4 inches (10 cm) in diameter. If your motif is larger, switch to a smaller hook. If smaller, go up a hook size. For a full tutorial on swatching technique, read how to swatch so your gauge actually matches.

Finished cup diameters by size:

• B cup: Approximately 5.5 inches (14 cm) after all rounds
• C cup: Approximately 6.25 inches (16 cm) after all rounds
• D cup: Approximately 7 inches (18 cm) after all rounds

Strap chain lengths: B cup ch 95, C cup ch 105, D cup ch 115. Try the strap around your neck before fastening off and adjust as needed.

Pattern Notes & Tips Before You Start

Each cup is worked in joined rounds from the center outward. Complete two identical motifs, join them at the center front with a chain bridge, then work the bottom edging across both cups as one continuous row. The drawstring weaves through this edging and up the outer sides.

Place a locking stitch marker in the first stitch of every round. The stitch pattern shifts from solid double crochet increases to openwork chain spaces at Round 6, and the round start is easy to lose during that transition.

After finishing the first cup, hold it against your bust to verify the diameter covers adequately. If it feels too small, adjust your hook size up by half a millimeter and start fresh — the yardage is small enough that this takes under an hour.

The beaded ends serve a mechanical purpose: they weigh down each tie so the drawstring cannot slip back through the eyelet row when you move. Choose beads with smooth, snag-free edges.

Abbreviations & Special Stitch Instructions

Standard abbreviations (US terms):

• ch: chain
• sl st: slip stitch
• sc: single crochet
• dc: double crochet
• st(s): stitch(es)
• sp: space
• RS: right side

Special stitches:

V-stitch (V-st): Work (1 dc, ch 2, 1 dc) all into the same stitch or chain space indicated.

Shell: Work 5 dc all into the same stitch or chain space indicated.

Picot: Ch 3, then sl st into the top of the stitch just completed.

Step-by-Step Instructions

Cup (Make 2 Identical)

Foundation: Form a magic ring. Ch 3 (counts as first dc throughout).

Round 1 (RS): Work 11 dc into the magic ring. Pull the tail to close the ring tightly. Join with a sl st to the top of the beginning ch-3. (12 dc)

Round 2: Ch 3. Dc in the same st as the join. Work 2 dc in each st around. Join with a sl st to the top of the beginning ch-3. (24 dc)

Round 3: Ch 3. 2 dc in the next st. *Dc in the next st, 2 dc in the next st; repeat from * around. Join. (36 dc)

Round 4: Ch 3. Dc in the next st, 2 dc in the next st. *Dc in the next 2 sts, 2 dc in the next st; repeat from * around. Join. (48 dc)

Round 5: Ch 3. Dc in the next 2 sts, 2 dc in the next st. *Dc in the next 3 sts, 2 dc in the next st; repeat from * around. Join. (60 dc)

Round 6: Ch 4 (counts as first dc + ch 1). Skip the next st, dc in the next st. *Ch 1, skip 1 st, dc in the next st; repeat from * around. Ch 1, skip the last st, join with a sl st to the 3rd ch of the beginning ch-4. (30 ch-1 spaces)

Round 7: Sl st into the first ch-1 sp. Ch 3. Work (dc, ch 2, 2 dc) in the same sp (first corner). *Ch 2, skip the next ch-1 sp, sc in the next ch-1 sp. Ch 2, skip the next ch-1 sp**, work (2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc) in the next ch-1 sp; repeat from * around, ending the last repeat at **. Join with a sl st to the top of the beginning ch-3. (6 corner sets with 6 sc between them)

Round 8: Sl st into the corner ch-2 sp. Ch 3. Work (dc, ch 2, 2 dc) in the same sp. *Ch 3, sc in the next sc, ch 3**, work (2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc) in the next corner ch-2 sp; repeat from * around, ending the last repeat at **. Join.

Round 9: Sl st into the corner ch-2 sp. Ch 3. Work (2 dc, ch 2, 3 dc) in the same sp. *Ch 4, sc in the next sc, ch 4**, work (3 dc, ch 2, 3 dc) in the next corner ch-2 sp; repeat from * around, ending the last repeat at **. Join.

Round 10 (Strap Round): Sl st into the corner ch-2 sp. Ch 3. Work (2 dc, ch 2, 3 dc) in the same sp. *Ch 3, skip the next ch-4 loop, Shell in the next sc. Ch 3, skip the next ch-4 loop**, work (3 dc, ch 2, 3 dc) in the next corner ch-2 sp; repeat from * around, ending the last repeat at **. Join.

Now begin the halter strap:

Sl st loosely across the next 3 dc to reach the corner ch-2 sp. Ch 95 (B cup), Ch 105 (C cup), or Ch 115 (D cup). Keep these chains loose — tight chains shorten the strap and dig into the neck.

Turn. Sl st in the 2nd ch from the hook. Sl st in each ch back to the cup. Sl st into the corner sp to anchor. Sl st into the next 2 dc to secure. Fasten off, leaving a 6-inch tail. Weave the tail through the back of nearby stitches.

Repeat all cup rounds and the strap for the second cup. After completing the second cup, do not fasten off.

Joining the Cups

Both cups should be right side up with the halter straps pointing down toward your work surface.

Foundation Join: With the working loop still active on the second cup, ch 3. Hold the two cups side by side with bottom edges aligned. Sc into any corner ch-2 sp of the first cup. Ch 3. Sc into the corner ch-2 sp of the second cup. This creates a ch-3 bridge at the center front.

Bottom Edging & Eyelet Row

Row 1 (Bottom Trim): Ch 1. Do not turn. Sc evenly along the bottom edge of both cups — one sc in each dc and one sc in each ch-sp. Work one sc into the joining ch-3 bridge. Join with a sl st to the first sc when you reach the end of the second cup's bottom edge. Fasten off. Weave in this end now.

Drawstring Tie

Tie: Ch 325 for B and C cups, or Ch 375 for D cup and larger. Fasten off, leaving an 8-inch tail at both ends.

Weaving: Starting at the center front bridge, weave the chain through the sc row along the bottom edge — over one sc, under the next, repeating. Continue weaving up the outer side edge of each cup through the ch-spaces of the outermost motif rounds. Stop just below the halter strap on each side.

Attaching the Beads

You should have four yarn tails: two from the halter straps and two from the drawstring tie.

Thread one bead onto each tail. Slide it snug against the last stitch. Tie a tight overhand knot directly against the bead. Thread the remaining tail onto a yarn needle, bury it inside the nearest chain or stitch for about 2 inches, and trim the excess close to the fabric.

Assembly and Finishing

Block the finished top before wearing. Submerge it in cool water for 10 minutes. Roll in a clean towel and press out excess water — do not wring, which distorts lace. Lay the top flat on a blocking mat or folded towel. Shape each cup into a circle, smoothing the shell stitches with your fingertips. Pin around the perimeter if needed and let dry completely. Proper blocking evens out the chain spaces so the lace pattern reads clearly. For a deeper dive, see our complete blocking tutorial.

Weave in all remaining ends. Cotton ends can work loose in water, so bury each tail through at least five stitches and double back through three of them.

Easy Variations & Custom Ideas

More coverage: Add one extra solid double crochet round between Rounds 5 and 6. Work dc evenly around with an increase every 12th st to maintain the flat circle shape. This adds roughly 0.5 inches to the cup diameter.

Cross-back straps: Instead of halter ties, crochet two additional chains from the outer cup edges and tie them behind the back. The drawstring tie at the bottom remains unchanged.

No beads: Finish each tie end with a small tassel. Cut six 4-inch strands of yarn, fold them over the tie end, and wrap a separate strand tightly around the fold to secure. Trim the tassel ends evenly.

Color-blocked cups: Work Rounds 1–5 in one color, then switch to a contrasting color for Round 6 onward. The solid center becomes a focal point while the openwork edge ties both cup colors together.

Common Troubleshooting and Fixes

One cup is larger than the other. This is a tension shift between the first and second cup. Rip back the second cup to the round where the diameter diverges from the first, then match your tension. Compare both cups side by side every two rounds to catch size differences early.

The halter strap twists or curls. Slip stitch straps curl inward because sl sts pull the fabric tight. To flatten the strap, work a row of sc into the back of the foundation chain instead of using sl sts. The sc method produces a slightly wider strap that lies flat against the neck.

The drawstring slips out of the eyelet row. The eyelet sc stitches are too loose. Go down one hook size for the bottom edging row only, or tighten your sc tension. The drawstring chain should pass through with slight friction, not slide freely.

Cup edges ruffle instead of lying flat. Ruffling in circular motifs means too many stitches for the current round. Count your stitches against the pattern totals. Look for accidental increases — two dc placed in a single st where one dc is called for is the most common cause.

Next-Level Tips

Once you understand how graduated chain spaces create cup depth — ch-2 in Round 7, ch-3 in Round 8, ch-4 in Round 9 — you can apply the same principle to any circular lace pattern. Any doily that builds outward from a solid center can become a swim top: stop increasing when the diameter matches your cup size, then add the strap round.

The V-stitch corner technique from Rounds 7–10 works identically in shawls and triangle scarves. Placing (3 dc, ch 2, 3 dc) in the center spine creates the same pointed drape that shapes the bikini cup. Try this corner method in the free triangle shawl pattern for practice at a larger scale.

Every two solid double crochet rounds add roughly 1 inch to the motif width. Map your measurements before starting a custom size, then stop the solid increase rounds when the motif hits your base cup width. The lace rounds add coverage without adding significant diameter.

Care Instructions

Machine wash cold on the gentle cycle in a mesh laundry bag. Lay flat to dry — heat from a dryer degrades mercerized cotton's smooth finish and can cause shrinkage. If the top wrinkles from storage, steam blocking restores the lace pattern without a full wash.

Rinse in fresh water after saltwater or chlorine exposure. Salt crystals and pool chemicals cling to cotton fibers and weaken them over time if left unrinsed. Thirty seconds under the tap and a gentle squeeze are enough before hanging to dry.

Final Remarks

This bikini top works because every design choice serves a function: the adjustable drawstring for custom fit, the beads for tie security, the cotton for wet-strength, and the graduated lace for quick-draining coverage. You now have the skills to crochet both cups identically, join them without seams, and finish the edges cleanly.

If you make this top, note your modifications. Hook size changes, strap length adjustments, or bead substitutions that worked for your body help the next crocheter who finds this pattern. Drop a comment below with what you changed.

You Might Also Love These Patterns

• Breezy Mesh Crochet Shrug — Another warm-weather lace garment using similar openwork construction
• Summer Camisole with V-Neck — A full-coverage top built with the same lightweight cotton approach
• Ribbed Crochet Crop Top with Ties — Another adjustable tie-closure summer garment
• Pastel Pink Scallop Crop Top — Similar shell stitch detailing in a different silhouette
• Summer Sun Hat — Pairs with this bikini for full beach-day coverage
• Granny Stitch Cowl with Picot Edging — Uses the same picot technique from this pattern's strap finish
• Openwork Mesh Market Tote — Practice chain-space lace on a larger scale before starting the bikini