A bucket hat was my first real crochet project after dishcloths and scarves.
I was convinced it would be complicated. Shaping, increasing, getting the brim to stand out instead of flopping down like a sad umbrella. But a bucket hat is just three sections: a flat circle for the crown, straight sides for the body, and a few increase rounds for the brim.
This version uses a simple fold technique at the transition points. Working into back loops or front loops on specific rounds creates an invisible hinge in the fabric. The hat bends where you want it to bend—at the crown edge and at the brim attachment—and stays straight everywhere else.
It's the difference between a hat that looks intentionally structured and one that looks like a beanie that couldn't decide what to be.
Why You'll Love This Bucket Hat
The loop manipulation for the bends is genuinely clever.
On the first round of the body, every stitch goes into the back loop only. This leaves the front loop visible, and that visible ridge becomes a natural fold line. The crown goes up, the body goes down, and the fold sits exactly at the transition.
The brim gets the same treatment in reverse. Working the first brim round into front loops only creates another ridge that angles the brim outward rather than letting it continue straight down.
The top sizing is straightforward.
You increase the crown circle until it matches your head circumference, then stop increasing. The body works even. The brim increases moderately to create a flat, angled extension. If you can crochet a flat circle, you can crochet a bucket hat.
The finished hat is a blank canvas.
Add stripes, embroider a design, sew on appliqués, attach a ribbon around the body. The simple double crochet fabric takes customization beautifully.
Materials Needed
- 80 grams / 145 yards of medium weight (#4) yarn
- 5.0 mm (H-8) crochet hook
- Scissors
- Tapestry needle
- Stitch marker
Red Heart Super Saver ($4.49 per 364 yards) in White is the no-frills choice. One skein makes about four bucket hats, which is useful if you want to experiment with dyeing or embellishments.
For a softer, more breathable hat, Lion Brand 24/7 Cotton ($4.99 per 186 yards) gives crisp stitch definition and a cooler feel for summer wear. Two balls cover this project.
Cotton is actually preferred here. The stiffness of cotton helps the brim hold its shape better than acrylic, which tends to relax and droop over time.
Best Yarn Choices for a Bucket Hat
Cotton gives you structure.
A bucket hat's defining feature is the brim that stands out from the head. Cotton's natural stiffness supports that projection. Lion Brand 24/7 Cotton and Paintbox Yarns Cotton Aran ($3.99 per 196 yards) are both excellent structured options.
Acrylic gives you softness and washability at the cost of some structure. If you choose acrylic, consider working the brim with a slightly smaller hook to stiffen it, or block the brim with starch spray.
Linen and linen blends are the premium choice. Lion Brand Touch of Linen ($7.99 per 197 yards) has natural stiffness and a slightly textured look that complements the bucket hat silhouette perfectly.
Avoid superwash wools and loosely plied yarns. The brim needs support, and anything too soft or stretchy will droop after a few wears.
Gauge, Size Guide & Must-Have Tools
Gauge: 8.5 rows of 15 double crochets = 4 inches square.
Gauge matters for fit. A bucket hat that's too tight gives you a headache. One that's too loose falls over your eyes. Measure your swatch and compare.
Finished dimensions by size (adjustable):
- Small: 70-stitch crown, fits about 20–21 inches
- Medium: 80-stitch crown, fits about 21–22 inches
- Large: 90-stitch crown, fits about 22–23 inches
To find your size, measure your head circumference at the widest point (just above the ears). Increase the crown until its circumference matches that measurement.
Must-have tools:
- 5.0 mm hook: Standard worsted weight hook. Clover Amour is comfortable for the many rounds of double crochet.
- Stitch marker: Mark the first stitch of each round. Working in joined rounds without a marker leads to stitch count drift.
Pattern Notes & Tips Before You Start
The hat is worked in joined rounds from the crown down.
Each round begins with a chain-2 that does not count as a stitch. The round ends with a slip stitch to the first actual double crochet of the round, not to the chain-2.
The crown should lie perfectly flat before you begin the body. If it's cupping into a bowl, your increases are too few or your tension is too tight. If it's rippling, your increases are too many.
The back-loop-only round at the start of the body creates the bend. Don't skip this. Without it, the hat transitions smoothly from crown to body without a visible fold, and the structured bucket hat look disappears.
For the brim, increases happen every other round. This creates a flat brim that extends outward at a slight angle. Increasing every round would create a wavy, ruffled brim. Not increasing at all would make the brim continue straight down.
Abbreviations Explained
- blo – back loop only: Insert hook under only the back loop.
- ch – chain: Yarn over, pull through loop.
- dc – double crochet: Yarn over, insert hook, pull up loop, (yarn over, pull through two loops) twice.
- flo – front loop only: Insert hook under only the front loop.
- inc – increase: Work 2 double crochets into the same stitch.
- rep – repeat: Work the instruction set again.
- sl st – slip stitch: Insert hook, yarn over, pull through stitch and loop.
- st – stitch: The V at the top of a completed stitch.
Step-by-Step Folded Brim Bucket Hat
Crown
Round 1: Make a magic ring. Chain 2. Work 10 dc into the ring. Slip stitch to the first dc. (10 stitches)
Tighten the ring. The center should close completely.
Round 2: Chain 2. Inc in each stitch around. Slip stitch. (20 stitches)
Round 3: Chain 2. (Dc in next stitch, inc in next stitch) repeat around. Slip stitch. (30 stitches)
Round 4: Chain 2. (Dc in next 2 stitches, inc in next stitch) repeat around. Slip stitch. (40 stitches)
Round 5: Chain 2. (Dc in next 3 stitches, inc in next stitch) repeat around. Slip stitch. (50 stitches)
Round 6: Chain 2. (Dc in next 4 stitches, inc in next stitch) repeat around. Slip stitch. (60 stitches)
Round 7: Chain 2. (Dc in next 5 stitches, inc in next stitch) repeat around. Slip stitch. (70 stitches)
Stop here for a small hat. Continue for larger sizes:
Round 8 (medium): Chain 2. (Dc in next 6 stitches, inc in next stitch) repeat around. Slip stitch. (80 stitches)
Round 9 (large): Chain 2. (Dc in next 7 stitches, inc in next stitch) repeat around. Slip stitch. (90 stitches)
The crown should be a flat circle at this stage. Measure its diameter and compare to your head circumference divided by 3.14. They should match roughly.
Body
Round 1 (fold round): Chain 2. Dc in the back loop only of each stitch around. Slip stitch.
This round creates the fold line between crown and body. The front loops left visible form a decorative ridge.
Rounds 2–7: Chain 2. Dc in each stitch around (through both loops as normal). Slip stitch.
Work more rounds for a longer body, fewer for a shorter body. The body should extend from the crown fold to just above your ears.
Brim
Round 1 (fold round): Chain 2. Working in front loops only: (dc in next 7 stitches, inc in next stitch) repeat around. Slip stitch.
For a medium size, this is (dc in next 8, inc). For large, (dc in next 9, inc). The number of dc between increases should match your final crown round's increase interval.
Round 2: Chain 2. Dc in each stitch around. Slip stitch.
Round 3: Chain 2. (Dc in next 8 stitches, inc in next stitch) repeat around. Slip stitch.
Round 4: Chain 2. Dc in each stitch around. Slip stitch.
Round 5: Chain 2. (Dc in next 9 stitches, inc in next stitch) repeat around. Slip stitch.
For a wider brim, continue alternating increase rounds with even rounds. For a narrower brim, stop after Round 3 or 4.
Fasten off. Weave in ends.
Finishing
Block the hat over a bowl or ball that matches your head size. The brim should lie flat while drying. Steam blocking helps set the fold lines permanently.
Easy Variations & Custom Ideas
Striped: Change colors at the fold rounds. The color change hides in the transition and looks intentional.
Checkered: Alternate two colors every stitch and every round for a checkered bucket hat. Requires carrying yarn, which the double crochet fabric hides well on the inside.
Wavy brim: Increase on every brim round instead of every other round. The brim will ruffle attractively rather than lying flat.
Appliquéd: Sew stars, hearts, flowers, or a custom design onto the body. The simple fabric is a perfect backdrop for embellishment.
Common Troubleshooting and Fixes
Crown is cupping: You're missing increases or your tension is too tight. Count stitches per round against the pattern and try a slightly larger hook if needed.
Crown is wavy: Too many increases or loose tension. Frog back and verify your increase intervals are correct.
Brim droops downward: The front-loop-only fold round may have been missed, or your tension is too loose on the brim. Try a smaller hook for the brim section.
Hat feels floppy overall: Cotton gives more structure than acrylic. For your next hat, try a cotton or cotton-blend yarn.
Final Thoughts
A bucket hat is a satisfying milestone project.
It requires understanding increases, working in the round, and basic shaping, but none of those skills are hard individually. Put together, they produce a hat that looks genuinely store-bought from the outside and proudly handmade on close inspection.
Make one in white for summer, one in stripes for fun, and one in a dark neutral for days when you want the hat without the attention.
Tag me if you make one. Bucket hats are my favorite thing to see in my feed.
