Tansy Granny Triangle Shawl Pattern

I've got the perfect project to dive into today. This Tansy Granny Shawl is one of those pieces I keep coming back to because it works up fast, feels luxurious against the skin, and gives you that satisfying "I'm done!" moment in just a few cozy evenings.

I still love how it turned out all these years later. The classic granny stitch triangle shape drapes beautifully, and those subtle color shifts make it look way more complicated than it really is.

What You'll Love About the Tansy Shawl

You get a generous triangle shawl that measures about 63 inches across the top edge and 29.5 inches from top to point.

I built it with the timeless granny stitch – just clusters of double crochets separated by chain spaces.

The color changes happen seamlessly as you go, creating soft blocks of color with a hint of sparkle from that glimmer yarn.

It's lightweight enough for layering but warm thanks to the merino and cashmere blends.

I spotted the colors on a building near my old job – those rich tansy heather tones mixed with cool grays, a pop of steel blue, and just a touch of silver sparkle.

I hunted down fingering weight yarns that matched perfectly and played with the stripes until the flow felt right.

Years on, I still wear mine on crisp days, and it reminds me how everyday sights can spark the best ideas.

Why This Granny Shawl Is a Forever Classic

Granny stitch triangles never go out of style – they've been popular for decades because they drape so well and show off color changes beautifully.

In 2025, classic granny shawls are still everywhere, especially the striped ones that let fingering or DK yarns shine.

You can make yours timeless with neutrals or punchy with brights.

No way – this is solidly beginner-friendly.

If you know double crochet and chains, you're golden.

The repeat is basically one row over and over after the setup.

Mistakes? They hide perfectly in granny clusters, so don't sweat a dropped stitch or two.

I always tell beginners: your shawl will look amazing even if it's not perfect, because handmade charm beats flawless every time.

Go ahead, raid your stash for fingering weights – this is a fantastic stash-buster if you swap in similar leftovers for the stripes.

You'll have a wearable win before you know it.

Materials You'll Need for the Tansy Shawl

Grab these exact yarns for that soft, luxurious feel I love, or swap in your stash fingering weights – just keep the gauge close.

• Hook: 4mm (G/6) crochet hook

• Yarn:

  • Color A: 1 skein WeCrochet Gloss Fingering in Robot (70% Merino Wool, 30% Silk; 220 yds/50g) – steel blue pop
  • Color B: 1 skein WeCrochet Bare Stroll Glimmer Fingering (70% Fine Superwash Merino, 25% Nylon, 5% Stellina; 462 yds/100g) – subtle silver sparkle
  • Color C: 2 skeins WeCrochet Capretta Fingering in Tansy Heather (80% Fine Superwash Merino Wool, 10% Cashmere, 10% Nylon; 230 yds/50g) – rich warm heather
  • Color D: 2 skeins WeCrochet Capretta Fingering in Moonstone Heather (80% Fine Superwash Merino Wool, 10% Cashmere, 10% Nylon; 230 yds/50g) – cool gray

• Yarn needle for weaving ends

• Measuring tape to check your progress

Key Stitches and Abbreviations (US Terms)

I keep it simple here – just the basics.

• dc – double crochet
• sl st – slip stitch
• ch – chain
• ch-sp – chain space
• Granny Stitch – 3 dc worked into the same chain space

Important Pattern Notes Before You Start

Read these – they'll make everything smoother.

The starting ch-4 at the beginning of each row counts as (dc + ch-1).

Every row ends with ch-4 and turn – that's your setup for the next row.

For seamless color changes: On the last dc of the row you're finishing, pull the new color through the last two loops of that dc.

Work all stitches into the chain spaces, not the tops of stitches.

This is a classic top-down granny triangle – it grows two granny clusters per side every row.

Mistakes blend right in, so relax and enjoy the rhythm.

Step-by-Step Pattern Instructions

Start with Color A.

Make a magic circle (or alternate: ch 4, sl st to first ch to form a ring). Ch 4 (counts as dc + ch 1).

Row 1: Work Granny Stitch (3 dc) into the ring, ch 3, work another Granny Stitch (3 dc) into the ring, ch 1, 1 dc into the ring. Turn. Ch 4.

(You now have 2 Granny clusters, center ch-3 space, and side ch-1 spaces.)

Row 2: Granny Stitch in first ch-1 sp, ch 1, (Granny Stitch, ch 3, Granny Stitch) in center ch-3 sp, ch 1, Granny Stitch in last ch-1 sp, ch 1, dc in 3rd ch of beginning ch-4. Turn. Ch 4.

Row 3 (the repeat row you'll use for everything else): Granny Stitch in first ch-1 sp, ch 1, skip next 3 dc, Granny Stitch in next ch-1 sp, ch 1; repeat to until you reach the center ch-3 sp. Work (Granny Stitch, ch 3, Granny Stitch) in center ch-3 sp. Then repeat to across the other side until the last ch-1 sp, ch 1, dc in 3rd ch of beginning ch-4. Turn. Ch 4.

Rows 4–7: Repeat Row 3.
At the end of Row 7, change to Color B on the final dc.

Rows 8–10: Repeat Row 3.
At the end of Row 10, change to Color C.

Rows 11–15: Repeat Row 3.
At the end of Row 15, change to Color B.

Rows 16–18: Repeat Row 3.
At the end of Row 18, change to Color D.

Rows 19–25: Repeat Row 3.
At the end of Row 25, change to Color B.

Rows 26–28: Repeat Row 3.
At the end of Row 28, change to Color C.

Rows 29–33: Repeat Row 3.
(No color change at Row 33 – stay with Color C.)

Rows 34–36: Repeat Row 3.
At the end of Row 36, change to Color A.

Rows 37–43: Repeat Row 3.
At the end of Row 43, change to Color B.

Rows 44–46: Repeat Row 3.
At the end of Row 46, change to Color C.

Rows 47–51: Repeat Row 3.
At the end of Row 51, change to Color B.

Rows 52–54: Repeat Row 3.
At the end of Row 54, change to Color D.

Rows 55–61: Repeat Row 3 with Color D.
After Row 61, fasten off.

Your shawl should measure about 63 inches across the top straight edge and 29.5 inches from top to point. Block gently if you want it even drapier.

Finishing and Edging Ideas

Weave in all those ends – I use my yarn needle and split the plies for security.

For the edge, pick whatever speaks to you. I went with a simple crown edging on mine, but a row of single crochet, picots, or shells would look great too.

This shawl is forgiving, so add your personal twist.

Block it lightly with pins and a spray bottle – those fingering yarns bloom beautifully.

There you go – your Tansy Granny Shawl is ready to wrap up in. It's one of my favorites for quick satisfaction and endless wear. Happy hooking!

Yarn Recommendations for Your Tansy Shawl

I originally designed this with WeCrochet's luxurious fingering weights, but as of 2025, Capretta, Gloss Fingering, and Bare Stroll Glimmer have been discontinued.

Don't worry – plenty of beautiful, current alternatives give you that same soft drape and color play.

My top beginner-friendly pick: Knit Picks Stroll Fingering (75% Fine Superwash Merino Wool, 25% Nylon; 462 yards/100g skein).

This yarn is perfect for beginners diving into fingering weight shawls.

The tight twist keeps stitches even and defined, so your granny clusters look crisp without splitting.

Superwash treatment means it's machine-washable – a huge win when you're learning and might need to frog a few times.

The nylon adds just enough strength for wear without feeling scratchy, and it blocks beautifully for that professional drape.

You'll need roughly the same amounts: about 2 skeins each for the main colors, 1 for accents.

Choose heathered tones like Dove Heather for Moonstone, a warm tan for Tansy, a steel blue solid, and Stroll Brights or a subtle sparkle blend if available for the glimmer pop.

Other great options if you want variety:

• Drops Flora (65% Wool, 35% Alpaca) – extra soft and hazy, affordable, tons of colors.
• Malabrigo Sock (100% Superwash Merino) – hand-dyed luxury feel, but watch for pooling in stripes.
• Cascade Heritage (75% Superwash Merino, 25% Nylon) – budget-friendly, durable, and widely available.

Raid your stash first – any fingering around 400-460 yards per 100g works as long as you match gauge.

Getting the Right Gauge for Perfect Drape

Gauge matters here: 6 granny clusters and 6 rows = 4x4 inches in pattern (unblocked).

Swatch a small triangle first – chain 4, follow Rows 1-5, measure.

If your swatch is too small (tight tension), go up to a 4.5mm or 5mm hook.

If too big, drop to 3.75mm.

Fingering weight can feel fiddly at first, but once you hit gauge, the fabric flows off your hook.

Block your finished shawl gently – wet it, pin to measurements on a mat, let dry – and it grows into that lovely 63x29.5 inch size.

Finished Size and How to Adjust It

My original measures 63 inches across the top straight edge and 29.5 inches deep after light blocking.

Yours might vary a bit with yarn or tension – that's normal and still wearable.

Want it bigger? Add extra repeat rows in the longer color sections.

Smaller? Stop around Row 50.

Just keep the color changes proportional.

Essential Tools and Extras for Success

Stick with a 4mm (G/6) hook – aluminum or ergonomic for comfort during long sessions.

You'll also need:

• Yarn needle (blunt tip) for weaving ends securely.
• Measuring tape to check gauge and final size.
• Stitch markers if you want to mark the center ch-3 space.
• Blocking mats and pins (rust-proof T-pins) – not required, but they make the shawl look store-bought.

Scissors, of course.

Tips to Make This Project Smooth Sailing

Work in good light – fingering is fine, so see those chains clearly.

Count your clusters every few rows – the pattern grows symmetrically, so sides should match.

If you lose track, lay it flat and count from the center out.

Frog without fear – granny stitch unravels easily.

Steam block if pinning feels intimidating – just hover a hot iron and mist.

Wear it proudly even if it's not exact – these shawls get better with use and washing.

You've got this. Pick your yarns, settle in with a cuppa, and watch those colors bloom row by row. Can't wait to hear how yours turns out!

Pattern Notes: What Beginners Need to Know

Take a deep breath – this Tansy Granny Shawl is truly one of the easiest shawls you'll ever make.

You only need two basic stitches: chains and double crochets.

The whole thing builds from a simple magic circle (or chain ring) and grows outward in a classic top-down triangle shape.

Every row after the first few is the exact same repeat – once you get the rhythm, you can crochet while watching your favorite show.

The beginning chain-4 on each row counts as a double crochet plus a chain-1 space – that's why your edges stay neat without extra work.

Color changes are seamless: just pull the new color through on the very last yarn-over of the final double crochet in the row.

If your tension varies a bit or you miss a stitch, it won't show – granny clusters forgive everything.

Count your clusters every 10 rows or so to keep the sides even, but even if they're off by one, blocking fixes most things.

This is a perfect stash-buster, so don't stress exact yardage – just keep going until it's the size you love.

Stitches and Abbreviations Used (US Terms)

Here’s every abbreviation you'll see in the pattern, with a quick explanation:

• ch – chain: Yarn over, pull through loop on hook.
• dc – double crochet: Yarn over, insert hook, pull up loop (3 loops on hook), yarn over pull through 2, yarn over pull through remaining 2.
• sl st – slip stitch: Insert hook, pull yarn through both loops on hook – no yarn over.
• ch-sp – chain space: The open space created by chains from the previous row (work into these, not the chain stitches themselves).
• Granny Stitch (or granny cluster): 3 double crochets worked all into the same chain space.

I absolutely love seeing your versions come to life in different colors and yarns.

Snap a photo when you're done (blocked or not – I love the in-progress ones too) and share it with me on Instagram or in the comments.

Tag me so I can cheer you on and maybe even feature your beautiful work.

You've just made something gorgeous with your own hands – wear it proudly.

Happy hooking!