Herringbone Half Double Crochet Stitch Guide
The herringbone half double crochet is one of those stitches that makes people stop and ask what you did differently.
It's a half double crochet at its core, but with one crucial modification: after pulling up a loop, you pull that loop through the first loop on your hook before completing the stitch. That single extra motion creates a diagonal tilt in the fabric that resembles the chevron pattern of herringbone textile weave.
The resulting fabric is dense, warm, and textured. It has almost no visible gaps between stitches, making it excellent for winter accessories where wind-blocking matters. The diagonal grain gives the fabric a woven, non-crochet appearance that's subtle but distinctive.
This stitch powers several of my patterns—most notably the twisted ear warmer—and learning it opens up a range of textured projects. It takes about two rows to memorize the motion.
Why You'll Love This Crochet Stitch
The fabric density is the primary benefit.
Standard half double crochet has small gaps between stitches. Herringbone hdc eliminates those gaps almost entirely because the extra pull-through compresses each stitch against its neighbor. For ear warmers, mittens, and beanies where wind protection matters, this density is genuinely functional.
The diagonal texture looks more complex than the effort suggests.
From a few feet away, the fabric reads as woven or knit. The diagonal striations catch light differently than straight crochet rows, giving the fabric visual depth. It's the kind of stitch you can use for an entire project and have it look designed rather than basic.
The stitch height matches standard half double crochet.
This means you can substitute herringbone hdc into any pattern that calls for regular hdc without adjusting row counts or stitch counts. The gauge is nearly identical.
It uses the same amount of yarn as standard hdc. No extra yarn consumption for the extra texture, which matters for projects where you're working with a limited quantity of a special yarn.
Materials Needed for Practice
- Smooth worsted weight (#4) yarn in a light or medium color
- 5.0 mm or 5.5 mm crochet hook
- Scissors
Light-colored, smooth yarn is best for learning. You need to see each loop clearly as you manipulate them through the stitch. Dark or fuzzy yarns obscure the loop structure and make the herringbone motion harder to track.
Red Heart Super Saver in a light shade or Caron Simply Soft both work well for practice swatches. There's no specific yarn requirement—this is a technique, not a project.
When you're ready to use the stitch in a project, my yarn selection guide covers fiber choices for different project types.
Step-by-Step Herringbone Half Double Crochet
Foundation
Make a slipknot. Chain any length you want, plus 1 extra chain for the turning chain.
The stitch doesn't require a specific multiple. Chain whatever length your project needs.
The Stitch
Step 1: Yarn over as you would for a standard half double crochet.
Step 2: Insert your hook into the second chain from the hook (or the next stitch if working into an established row).
Step 3: Yarn over.
Step 4: Pull up a loop. You now have 3 loops on your hook.
This is where herringbone diverges from standard hdc. In a normal hdc, you'd yarn over and pull through all three loops. In herringbone, you do one extra step first.
Step 5: Pull the first loop on your hook through the second loop. This removes one loop, leaving you with 2 loops on the hook. The loop you pulled through creates the diagonal herringbone slant.
Step 6: Yarn over.
Step 7: Pull through both remaining loops on your hook.
One herringbone half double crochet complete.
Working into the Next Stitch
Move to the next chain (or next stitch in an established row) and repeat steps 1 through 7.
Starting a New Row
At the end of the row, chain 1 and turn. The chain-1 does not count as a stitch. Work your first herringbone hdc into the first actual stitch of the row below.
Practice Pattern
For a practice swatch, chain 16. Work herringbone hdc into the 2nd chain from the hook and each chain across. (15 stitches)
Chain 1, turn. Work herringbone hdc into each stitch across. Repeat until the swatch is square.
Each row takes about the same time as a row of standard hdc once the motion becomes automatic—usually within two or three rows.
Common Mistakes and Fixes
Stitches feel too tight: The extra pull-through step can cause tighter tension. Consciously loosen your yarn hand during step 5. The loop should pull through easily, not require force.
Fabric is curling: Like standard hdc, herringbone hdc fabric may curl at the edges. Blocking resolves this.
Uneven diagonal lines: Inconsistent tension on the pull-through step creates wavy diagonals. Focus on keeping step 5 smooth and consistent.
Stitch count drifting: The first and last stitches of each row are the easiest to miss. Count stitches every few rows until the stitch identification becomes automatic.
Projects That Use This Stitch
The herringbone half double crochet appears in several patterns on this site. The twisted ear warmer uses 66 rows of this stitch. Ribbed beanies, fingerless gloves, and dense winter scarves all benefit from the wind-blocking fabric this stitch creates.
For more textured stitch techniques, check out my moss stitch tutorial or explore the cozy textured pillow cover pattern which uses similar dense stitches.
Final Thoughts
The herringbone half double crochet is one of those stitches that feels like a secret weapon.
It's barely more difficult than standard hdc, but the fabric it produces looks and behaves differently enough that people will ask you what you did. It's worth the ten minutes it takes to learn for the satisfaction of watching that diagonal texture build row by row.
Practice on a small swatch, then use it anywhere you'd use half double crochet. The results will surprise you.
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The Author
I'm Joanna T. Grey. I've been designing crochet patterns for over a decade, and I focus on modern, wearable pieces with clear, tested instructions. Every pattern here is written so you actually understand the why behind each step—not just what to do. Even if you're new or experienced, you'll find practical guidance and designs that work.
